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Prada scandal proves the power of India's troll army
Prada scandal proves the power of India's troll army

Fashion Network

time23-07-2025

  • Business
  • Fashion Network

Prada scandal proves the power of India's troll army

Historically, the sandals were produced for specific communities. For farmers who worked in the fields, they were robust and able to withstand wear-and-tear; for the courtier class and nobles they were more delicate and ostentatious. In 2019, the footwear was awarded the Geographical Indication status, viewed as a mark of authenticity. (Other Indian items to have received this tag include Darjeeling tea and Alphonso mangoes.) But Prada didn't credit India for the designs, prompting a brutal social media backlash. The nationalistic sentiment whipped up by this controversy boosted sales of the traditional sandals. The country's online community is renowned for its digital ferocity — it accused the brand of cultural appropriation, and the furor forced the fashion house into damage control mode. It issued a statement saying it recognized the sandals were inspired by traditional Indian footwear. The luxury brand's experience is a reminder that in India, foreign firms have to be aware of how reputational risk could affect future revenue. Internet penetration is rising, with 55% of the population connected. Social media is growing fast, too: It's estimated the world's most populous nation is home to 462 million social media users. India is a rising global power, one international brands are keen to break into. But local and foreign firms face various challenges: Bureaucracy, shoddy infrastructure and unique consumer behaviors that include a fierce defense of India's rich heritage. All of these factors require a tailored approach. Success in the market lies in the ability to balance local authenticity and global appeal — and the willingness to 'learn to love and speak to India,' as Francois Grouiller, chief executive officer of the luxury consultancy IndLux recently noted. Foreign brands can't afford to ignore India's luxury market, which reached $7.74 billion in 2023, and is projected to approach $12 billion by 2028, a recent Kearney report notes. Other estimates predict the sector could more than triple by 2030, growing to upward of $85 billion. The number of ultra-high-net-worth individuals — people with a net worth of at least $30 million — is expected to grow by 50% by 2028. These forecasts come with the obvious caveats — most notably, there is still a huge wealth gap in the country. While the 100 million wealthiest people are splurging, 400 million of their middle-class counterparts have cut back. Global economic conditions are becoming less supportive, as US President Donald Trump's sweeping tariffs fuel trade tensions and put pressure on future growth. Still, viewing consumers as a long-term opportunity rather than just a short-term play would help these firms thrive. Even more important is understanding that India is home to a diverse market with distinct needs. Some brands have grasped this already — high-end jeweler Bulgari SpA offers a pricey Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women — tapping into the desire for luxury with home-grown sensibilities. The Italian brand is not the first — and neither will it be the last — to fall foul of cultural norms. Earlier this year, Gucci made the mistake of calling Bollywood star Alia Bhatt's custom-made sari-lehenga (a fusion of the traditional sari with a long skirt) a gown. Another online frenzy was set off in May, when a viral social media trend was criticized for calling the dupatta — a traditional South Asian shawl — a Scandinavian scarf. Prada doesn't own any retail stores in India, depending instead on the super-rich diaspora and wealthy Indians who travel overseas. But the firm — which has seen its shares lose about 30% since February as investors took fright at its purchase of Versace — isn't taking any chances. In a conciliatory move, it's now working with traditional artisans to understand the history behind the famed Kolhapuris. The luxury fashion house has learned the hard way that cultural fluency is no longer a 'nice to have'— it's central to business survival.

When Global Luxury Looks To India, Homegrown Brands Set The Tone
When Global Luxury Looks To India, Homegrown Brands Set The Tone

News18

time18-07-2025

  • Entertainment
  • News18

When Global Luxury Looks To India, Homegrown Brands Set The Tone

Last Updated: As global luxury looks to India, it's homegrown brands that are setting the pace with authenticity, heritage, and modern vision. Global luxury is no longer merely inspired by India – it's embracing it with open arms. From Dior's grand Mumbai runway and Prada's Kolhapuri-style sandals to Bulgari's Mangalsutra line and Louis Vuitton's Deepika Padukone-led campaigns, Indian heritage, craftsmanship, and cultural icons are no longer side notes, they're the main attraction. Yet, while international houses are borrowing liberally from Indian aesthetics, it's India's own homegrown labels that are redefining the narrative – authentic, rooted, and unapologetically visionary. As Indian artisanship finally takes center stage and celebrities become global fashion ambassadors, India isn't just influencing luxury anymore. India is luxury. Homegrown Heroes: The True Tastemakers While global brands reinterpret India through a Western lens, Indian designers are shaping a movement from within infusing modernity into tradition, and storytelling into style. These labels aren't just riding the trend; they're defining it. Crafting sarees that feel like heirlooms with a modern edge, Teejh blends regal silhouettes with everyday wearability. Their festive drapes are an ode to Indian femininity—fluid, fierce, and timeless. Co-founder Maya Varma shares, 'When global luxury looks to India for inspiration, it's a reminder of the quiet power our traditions hold. Prada turning to Kolhapuris, Louis Vuitton drawing from auto-rickshaws, Dior's Mumbai runway—this isn't a trend. It's a cultural shift. India is no longer the moodboard; it's the moment. At Teejh, we don't see the saree as just traditional wear, it's a global silhouette. It's not about Westernizing it, but about the world discovering how versatile it already is." Aabharnam Foundation More than just a fashion label, Aabharnam is a purpose-driven movement. Focused on reviving the ancient craft of Banarasi weaves and supporting tie-dye traditions native to Gujarat and Rajasthan, the brand weaves sustainability, heritage, and social upliftment into every thread. Saundh Saundh captures the soul of Indian craftsmanship and dresses it in contemporary silhouettes. Their boho-ethnic collections—marked by modern cuts, relaxed fits, and artisanal prints—bring Indian elegance to a global, comfort-first wardrobe. trueBrowns At the intersection of nostalgia and new-age design, trueBrowns stands for minimalist Indian wear. Their fluid, fuss-free silhouettes in airy fabrics evoke timeless drapes reimagined for the urban woman—elegant, understated, and versatile. Hiranya Built on the values of slow fashion, Hiranya works with ethically sourced handlooms and artisan-led processes. Every piece is a canvas of tradition, sustainably crafted and consciously styled for the modern wearer. top videos View all These brands aren't mimicking the global gaze—they're crafting their own. As luxury's spotlight shifts to India, these homegrown labels are showing the world that the future of fashion may well lie in our roots. They don't just borrow motifs—they live the legacy. They don't chase trends—they create culture. Because when luxury turns its eyes to India, it's these authentic, ground-up voices that lead the way. About the Author Lifestyle Desk Our life needs a bit of style to get the perfect zing in the daily routine. News18 Lifestyle is one-stop destination for everything you need to know about the world of fashion, food, health, travel, More The News18 Lifestyle section brings you the latest on health, fashion, travel, food, and culture — with wellness tips, celebrity style, travel inspiration, and recipes. Also Download the News18 App to stay updated! view comments Location : New Delhi, India, India First Published: July 17, 2025, 10:18 IST News lifestyle When Global Luxury Looks To India, Homegrown Brands Set The Tone Disclaimer: Comments reflect users' views, not News18's. Please keep discussions respectful and constructive. Abusive, defamatory, or illegal comments will be removed. News18 may disable any comment at its discretion. By posting, you agree to our Terms of Use and Privacy Policy.

Prada credits the traditional ‘Kolhapuri' sandal amid backlash
Prada credits the traditional ‘Kolhapuri' sandal amid backlash

Business Recorder

time01-07-2025

  • Business
  • Business Recorder

Prada credits the traditional ‘Kolhapuri' sandal amid backlash

NEW DELHI/MILAN: Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada has acknowledged the ancient Indian roots of its new sandal design after the debut of the open-toe footwear sparked a furore among Indian artisans and politicians thousands of miles from the catwalk in Italy. Images from Prada's fashion show in Milan last weekend showed models wearing leather sandals with a braided design that resembled handmade Kolhapuri slippers with designs dating back to the 12th century. A wave of criticism in the media and from lawmakers followed over the Italian brand's lack of public acknowledgement of the Indian sandal design, which is named after a city in the western state of Maharashtra. Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners, responded to the sandal scandal in a letter to a trade group on Friday recognising their Indian heritage. 'We acknowledge that the sandals… are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage,' Bertelli, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, wrote in the letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, seen by Reuters. The sandals are at an early stage of design and it is not certain they will be commercialized, but Prada is open to a 'dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans' and will arrange follow-up meetings, he wrote. A Prada spokesperson issued a statement acknowledging the sandal's inspiration from India, adding the company has 'always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions'. Prada products are beyond the reach of most Indians. Its men's leather sandals retail for $844 and up, while the Kolhapuri slippers, sold in Indian shops and street markets, start at about $12. India's luxury market is small but growing fast, with rising numbers of rich people buying Louis Vuitton bags, Lamborghini cars, luxury homes and watches. Conversely, Indian culture and crafts are increasingly finding their way into global brand designs. High-end jeweller Bulgari offers a $16,000 Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women. Bertelli's homage to Indian design was sent in a response to a complaint from the head of the trade group that represents 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans, as the online uproar gathered momentum. 'From the dusty lanes of Kolhapur to the glitzy runways of Milan… will the world finally give credit where it's due?' India's DNA News posted on X. Sambhaji Chhatrapati from the Kolhapur Royal family told Reuters by phone he was upset that craftsmen had not been acknowledged for the 'history and heritage of 150 years.' Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, however, said images of the Prada sandal were bringing cheer to some artisans as they show their traditional product going global. 'They are happy that someone is recognising their work,' he said.

Sandal scandal: Prada credits new design's Indian legacy amid furore
Sandal scandal: Prada credits new design's Indian legacy amid furore

Fashion Network

time30-06-2025

  • Business
  • Fashion Network

Sandal scandal: Prada credits new design's Indian legacy amid furore

Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada has acknowledged the ancient Indian roots of its new sandal design after the debut of the open-toe footwear sparked a furore among Indian artisans and politicians thousands of miles from the catwalk in Italy. Images from Prada's fashion show in Milan last weekend showed models wearing leather sandals with a braided design that resembled handmade Kolhapuri slippers with designs dating back to the 12th century. A wave of criticism in the media and from lawmakers followed over the Italian brand's lack of public acknowledgement of the Indian sandal design, which is named after a city in the western state of Maharashtra. Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners, responded to the sandal scandal in a letter to a trade group on Friday recognising their Indian heritage. "We acknowledge that the sandals... are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage," Bertelli, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, wrote in the letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, seen by Reuters. The sandals are at an early stage of design and it is not certain they will be commercialized, but Prada is open to a "dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans" and will arrange follow-up meetings, he wrote. A Prada spokesperson issued a statement acknowledging the sandal's inspiration from India, adding the company has "always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions". Prada products are beyond the reach of most Indians. Its men's leather sandals retail for $844 and up, while the Kolhapuri slippers, sold in Indian shops and street markets, start at about $12. India's luxury market is small but growing fast, with rising numbers of rich people buying Louis Vuitton bags, Lamborghini cars, luxury homes and watches. Conversely, Indian culture and crafts are increasingly finding their way into global brand designs. High-end jeweller Bulgari offers a $16,000 Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women. Bertelli's homage to Indian design was sent in a response to a complaint from the head of the trade group that represents 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans, as the online uproar gathered momentum. "From the dusty lanes of Kolhapur to the glitzy runways of Milan... will the world finally give credit where it's due?" India's DNA News posted on X. Sambhaji Chhatrapati from the Kolhapur Royal family told Reuters by phone he was upset that craftsmen had not been acknowledged for the "history and heritage of 150 years." Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, however, said images of the Prada sandal were bringing cheer to some artisans as they show their traditional product going global. "They are happy that someone is recognising their work," he said.

Sandal scandal: Prada credits new design's Indian legacy amid furore
Sandal scandal: Prada credits new design's Indian legacy amid furore

Fashion Network

time30-06-2025

  • Business
  • Fashion Network

Sandal scandal: Prada credits new design's Indian legacy amid furore

Luxury fashion powerhouse Prada has acknowledged the ancient Indian roots of its new sandal design after the debut of the open-toe footwear sparked a furore among Indian artisans and politicians thousands of miles from the catwalk in Italy. Images from Prada's fashion show in Milan last weekend showed models wearing leather sandals with a braided design that resembled handmade Kolhapuri slippers with designs dating back to the 12th century. A wave of criticism in the media and from lawmakers followed over the Italian brand's lack of public acknowledgement of the Indian sandal design, which is named after a city in the western state of Maharashtra. Lorenzo Bertelli, son of Prada's owners, responded to the sandal scandal in a letter to a trade group on Friday recognising their Indian heritage. "We acknowledge that the sandals... are inspired by traditional Indian handcrafted footwear, with a centuries-old heritage," Bertelli, Prada's head of corporate social responsibility, wrote in the letter to the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, seen by Reuters. The sandals are at an early stage of design and it is not certain they will be commercialized, but Prada is open to a "dialogue for meaningful exchange with local Indian artisans" and will arrange follow-up meetings, he wrote. A Prada spokesperson issued a statement acknowledging the sandal's inspiration from India, adding the company has "always celebrated craftsmanship, heritage and design traditions". Prada products are beyond the reach of most Indians. Its men's leather sandals retail for $844 and up, while the Kolhapuri slippers, sold in Indian shops and street markets, start at about $12. India's luxury market is small but growing fast, with rising numbers of rich people buying Louis Vuitton bags, Lamborghini cars, luxury homes and watches. Conversely, Indian culture and crafts are increasingly finding their way into global brand designs. High-end jeweller Bulgari offers a $16,000 Mangalsutra necklace inspired by a chain traditionally worn by married women. Bertelli's homage to Indian design was sent in a response to a complaint from the head of the trade group that represents 3,000 Kolhapuri sandal artisans, as the online uproar gathered momentum. "From the dusty lanes of Kolhapur to the glitzy runways of Milan... will the world finally give credit where it's due?" India's DNA News posted on X. Sambhaji Chhatrapati from the Kolhapur Royal family told Reuters by phone he was upset that craftsmen had not been acknowledged for the "history and heritage of 150 years." Kolhapur-based businessman Dileep More, however, said images of the Prada sandal were bringing cheer to some artisans as they show their traditional product going global. "They are happy that someone is recognising their work," he said.

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