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Food Picks: Thevar's luxe new home in Mohamed Sultan Road with $298 tasting menu

Sign up now: Get ST's newsletters delivered to your inbox SINGAPORE – Two-Michelin-starred Thevar has moved from its somewhat cramped space in Keong Saik Road to new digs in Mohamed Sultan Road. There, chef Manogren Thevar, 34, has created a serene space in which to serve his modern Indian food. The walls are a terracotta colour, the rug patterned like floor tiles in a Chettinad home. Custom-made tables and comfortable chairs are well spaced out and the restaurant is lit by the soft glow of pendant and wall lamps from Japan. The $2 million fit-out is all about quiet luxury. The main dining area seats 28 and he has two counter seats in the kitchen. On the floor above is a private dining room equipped with a kitchen and it can seat up to 10. To make the transition to the new location seamless, the Penang-born chef has not made drastic changes to the $298++ a person tasting menu, but says he is working on new offerings. My meal tells me the chef is firing on all cylinders at the new place. Summer Tomato Chaat, one of the snacks, is topped with sweet, tiny Tomberry tomatoes, tempered by gently tart tamarind gel. There is a burst of freshness from coriander chutney and crunch comes from little crumbs sprinkled on top and the potato tart shell. His Pani Puri is another beautiful snack, the shell made with dehydrated carrot juice and filled with tomato and buttermilk spheres, and pomegranate arils. It is refreshing but also intense – who knew carrot juice could taste this good? I could have bowls of the khichdi, which hides under a perfectly cooked abalone in the Abalone Khichdi course. The homespun dish of rice and lentils cooked together into something porridge-like gets a glow-up, with Koshihikari rice and pearl couscous. Some of the couscous is toasted or deep-fried, adding crunch. Top stories Swipe. Select. Stay informed. Singapore No train service across entire Bukit Panjang LRT line due to power fault Asia 4 dead, 38 missing after ferry sinks on way to Indonesia's Bali Singapore $500 in Child LifeSG credits, Edusave, Post-Sec Education Account top-ups to be disbursed in July Singapore Pedestrian-only path rules to be enforced reasonably; focus on errant cyclists: Baey Yam Keng Singapore 17-year-old youth charged with trespassing on MRT tracks; to be remanded at IMH Business Microsoft cutting 9,000 jobs companywide in second major wave of layoffs this year Asia Malaysian nurses following the money abroad for more opportunities World Trump tax Bill stalled by Republican rebellion in Congress Chef Thevar's spicing is always on point and this is on full display in the main course of Mysore Spiced Rack of Lamb, perfectly medium rare and very aromatic with coriander, cumin, cinnamon and dried chillies. Sorrel chutney adds tang, as does pineapple and mango achar. I love the lamb biryani served alongside – aromatic and light. The rose granita in the Peach & Paneer dessert is so perfect for hot weather and a good landing pad for paneer and peach ice cream, and slices of peaches. The petit fours remind me of how far chef Thevar and his restaurant have come in seven years. They are perfectly executed and perfectly delightful: tiny madeleines with warm spices, QQ mango lassi mochi and an unexpected gift, small wedges of Masala Chai Caramel Tart. Now chef, this tart is just as good as the Cempedak Puff that so enchanted me in the early days of Thevar. It needs to be a full-sized dessert. Where: 16 Mohamed Sultan Road MRT: Fort Canning Open: 6 to 11pm (Tuesdays to Fridays), noon to 3pm, 6 to 11pm (Saturdays), closed Sundays and Mondays Info: Call 9750-8275 or go to