Latest news with #MarieMitchell
Time Out
24-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
It's like Monty Don's offering a helping hand in the kitchen
I've long attempted to work out what exactly people mean when they call something a 'neighbourhood restaurant'. In the London context at least, I have arrived at the conclusion that it is simply a restaurant that isn't in Soho (or Shoreditch at a push). Pasero then, plonked on the Seven Sisters end of West Green Road in Tottenham, certainly makes the cut, a welcoming space with something of the 1960s primary school aesthetic about it, with shades of beige, terracotta and British racing green, as well as a small deli and bottle shop. Opened in 2022, the idea was for it to be a hub for a series of rotating chefs, a bit like Carousel in Fitzrovia. Of course, this is a lovely idea – Marie Mitchell one week, Ling Ling's the next, and Anna Sogaard right after – but surely a logistical pain in the arse. After almost three years, the Pasero people have decided to make their lives easier and go steady with a full-time chef. It's a good one, too - previous Pasero pop-up champ Diamantis Kalogiannidis, who honed his skills at double Michelin star wonder Da Terra in Bethnal Green. His blackboard menu is short and sweet. A ham-hock croquette is a powerful thing. Almost as large as a scotch egg, and with a crunch to rival on a Twiglet on the outside. Inside, it's densely packed with sweet, moist and perfectly pink hock. This is a hearty, Hampton Court Palace banquet-worthy snack, the ideal thing for King Henry VIII to nibble on while deciding which woman's life to ruin next. A wild-bream crudo, in contrast, is ultra delicate, tarted up for the ball with sliced strawberries and an intoxicating smoked creme fraiche. The perfect light relief after the girthy hock croq. A plate brimming with tomatoes (on top of bright, light Cretan cheese) tells us that Kalogiannidis isn't just into seasonality on a whim, this is a chef who goes giddy for fresh produce. Dishes here are topped with springs of lemon verbena, elevated with flirty, flapping shiso leaves - it's like Monty Don's offering a helping hand in the kitchen, liberally flinging the day's haul from the allotment onto each plate on the pass. Chalkstream trout - boasting the crispiest fish skin I may have ever encountered - comes with yet more tomatoes, olives, sprigs of tangy Italian green agretti (that'll be Monty at work again) and some slightly too sturdy artichokes, but is also furiously fresh. The gamey bavette steak was the second meatiest moment of the meal following the croquette, served with a rich splodge of black garlic sauce and a controversially thin - aka unlumpy - chimichurri. The flavours are all there, but there's something about a thin-ichurri that doesn't sit right with us. Justice for big chunks of green mush, say we. Dessert returns the needle to its rightful place. Joyfully clumpy crumbles of caramelised white chocolate are dusted onto what is basically an artisan Mini Milk, alongside tart roasted strawberries and floral elderflower gel. It is beauty, it is grace. Pasero then, the almost perfect neighbourhood restaurant. The vibe Relaxed all-day dining (it's open from 8am for coffee and bakes) in a friendly, mid-century-styled space in Tottenham. The drink Lots of excellent cocktails (try the potent marg), a well-thought out wine list, and some serious sherry.
Yahoo
28-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Spring's best new cookbooks, from pizza to pastries
When you buy through links on our articles, Future and its syndication partners may earn a commission. This season's batch of new cookbooks are wanderers. You could head to Pakistan, the Caribbean (two times) or bop from one friend's dinner party to another's with the optimal dish in hand for sharing. Marie Mitchell is the child of Jamaican immigrants and lives in the United Kingdom. Her debut cookbook is a collection of recipes that celebrate the flavors of her ancestral Caribbean and the diaspora it has influenced. That means honey-shellacked jerk wings with cassava fries, tomato curry and coconut buns. (out now, $35, W.W. Norton) One impactful aspect of the best cookbooks is their ability to overturn your thinking. With this new book, Maryam Jillani shows the complexity of Pakistan, a country too often in the West lumped with its neighbor to the southwest, India. "Pakistan" is part travelogue, part cultural study and a compendium of Pakistani recipes that showcase the singular diversity of the country's cooking. (out now, $40, Bookshop) "It's about the delicious places that live in between American and Chinese traditions," said chef Brandon Jew of Mister Jiu's in San Francisco about Calvin Eng's cooking in "Salt Sugar MSG." The chef at Bonnie's in Brooklyn, named for his mother, Eng plays well with both classic Cantonese and American dishes. Taro steps in for potatoes in diner-style hash browns. Pork schnitzel is seasoned with salt and pepper and served with ranch. "Some chef-authored cookbooks feel fussy in a way that's ultimately unfriendly to cooking at home, but 'Salt Sugar MSG' feels cheffy in a more accessible way," said Bettina Makalintal at Eater. (out now, $40, Clarkson Potter) The world needs another pizza cookbook like — well, most everyone loves pizza, so bring it on. This debut cookbook from Scarr Pimentel, the mind behind the beloved Manhattan pizzeria Scarr's, celebrates New York-style pizza, with an emphasis on natural and organic ingredients. The results are both classic and modern; now you can achieve the same at home. (out now, $30, 4 Color Books) One great cookbook: 'Snacking Cakes' One great cookbook: 'Solo' One great cookbook: 'The Zuni Café Cookbook' Nina Compton has had a peripatetic cooking journey. Born in Saint Lucia, she lived in Jamaica and Miami before settling in New Orleans. In the Crescent City, she opened Compère Lapin and Bywater American Bistro, restaurants that sing the pleasures of her distinctive Caribbean-centered cuisine. The book, coauthored with Osayi Endolyn, is organized around those four locations — Saint Lucia, Jamaica, Miami, New Orleans — to show how the quartet shaped Compton. (April 1, $37.50, Clarkson Potter) Zaynab Issa, a recent member of the lauded Bon Appétit food team, is known for her smart, big-flavored cooking. In her first cookbook, her style is dubbed "third culture cooking" — not wholly that of her Tanzanian-Indian beginnings, not strictly American but a hybrid and reconsideration of all of it. French onion ramen, udon carbonara, tandoori tacos, baklava granola: "Issa's recipes are mashups of everything you'd want to eat," said Jaya Saxena at Eater. (April 1, $35, Abrams) Nicole Rucker, owner of the Los Angeles bakeries Fat + Flour, is the rare pastry person who is beloved by both other pastry people and the baked-goods consuming public. Any cookbook from Rucker is cause for clanging together your measuring cups with glee. In her latest, she walks you through how to make superb pies and cookies, and does so with clear, lighthearted instructions. (April 8, $35, Knopf) If you have ever been invited to someone's house and felt exhausted at the notion of meekly proffering yet another bottle of wine when you arrive, this book by Casey Elsass aims to revitalize your guest obligations. The book is divided into eight sections, and each tackles a different occasion, including tailgates and brunch. The recipes are accessible but will still impress every kind of host — and the other guests in attendance. (May 20, $30, Union Square & Co)
