a day ago
What makes France's Loire Valley a world heritage wonder
If the famed French writer Victor Hugo had visited the Château de Chambord today, it's safe to say he would have been over-sharing it on Instagram.
After travelling there for the first time, he wrote: 'Can you imagine, dear Paul, that ever since I saw Chambord, I have been asking anyone and everyone: Have you seen Chambord?' Standing before it myself, I know just how he felt.
Looking up at this fairy-tale castle, crowned with its carnival of cream-and-grey turrets, I want to tell everyone about it too. Commissioned by François I in 1519 and eventually completed in the 17th century, it is considered a masterpiece of Renaissance architecture. At its centre is a double-revolution staircase inspired by Leonardo da Vinci.
While Chambord is arguably the most famous, every one of the celebrated châteaux in the Loire Valley, of which more than a hundred can be visited, has its own individual charm. Then there are the renowned vineyards, the historic towns and the flower-filled villages. And, at the heart of it all, is the longest river in France.
A world-renowned destination
It's perhaps no surprise then that a vast swathe of the Loire Valley was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2000. That makes this year its 25th anniversary. Spanning 174km from Sully-sur-Loire to Chalonnes-sur-Loire, it's one of the largest listed sites in the country.
This also means it's nigh-on impossible to see everything in the UNESCO area on a single trip, let alone the wider region, but what better excuse to plan a return visit? Especially as it all begins just an hour's train ride from Paris.
If you're coming from that direction, an ideal place to start is in Orléans, sometimes described as the gateway to the Loire Valley. Among the oldest cities in France, it was famously liberated by Joan of Arc from the English siege of 1429. Even today, her presence is everywhere – from the imposing statue in the main square and the street bearing her name to the stained-glass windows in the Gothic cathedral of Sainte-Croix.
This relaxed riverside city is also known for its attractive waterfront, Renaissance buildings and vibrant street art. Here, names such as M. Chat, Tag Lady and MifaMosa are uttered with almost the same reverence as Joan of Arc herself. I'm also tempted by the various museums – and, in particular, the intriguing-sounding tours taking in the city's subterranean spaces.
Today, however, we are visiting the last surviving vinegar maker of Orléans. The city became famous for its vinegar in the Middle Ages when the slow-moving shipments on the Loire meant the wine would sometimes sour. Founded in 1797, Martin-Pouret continues the tradition to this day. As well as their boutique in the centre, which sells specialist vinegars alongside other products like mustard and sauces, they offer tours of their workshop just outside the city.
On the trail of châteaux
The next morning, we make the half-hour journey to one of the more unusual castles on our list, Château de Meung-sur-Loire. Known as 'the castle with two faces', while one side maintains its medieval exterior, the other has an 18th-century façade in salmon pink. Outside, a dragon-themed trail features impressive animatronics, including a 14m-long basilisk, while a zen-like rose garden emanates calm.
Beyond the châteaux, another must in the Loire Valley is a vineyard visit. As one of France's leading wine regions, there's an impressive diversity – from Sancerre's flagship whites and Saumur's sparkling varieties to Chinon's highly regarded reds. Back at Chambord, they are now producing their own organic, hand-harvested wines, reviving an age-old tradition on the estate. During the 'obligatory' tasting, a sparkling rosé called La Favorite lives up to its name.
That evening, keen to connect with the river itself, we take a boat trip on the Loire in a traditional wooden vessel. For this, we join an excursion with Moments de Loire, whose knowledgeable guide teaches us all about the river's ecosystem. Although we don't spot the resident beavers, we do spy brightly coloured dragonflies and a huge heron swooping past.
Where gardens meet fairy tales
For garden lovers, the nearby Domaine de Chaumont-sur-Loire shouldn't be missed. Alongside its remarkable château, once home to Catherine de' Medici, the estate hosts the International Garden Festival. This year's theme, 'Once upon a time, in the garden', has yielded some magical results.
It's also well worth making the detour south to see the Royal City of Loches. One of the finest fortified cities in the country, it has an ensemble of architecture that began around a thousand years ago. At its heart is the Royal Lodge, once favoured by Charles VII, and a medieval keep that's among the best preserved in Europe.
Not too far from here, the village of Montrésor – officially one of France's 'most beautiful' – offers picturesque streets, a verdant valley and, yes, a lovely château. Also, look out for the statue of the 'Fallen Angel' by Constantino Corti. Its haunting beauty drew the admiration of Sir Mick Jagger, no less, who has a home in the region and can occasionally be spotted buying a baguette at a local bakery.
On that note, if you're seeking a bite to eat in this corner of the Loire Valley, the eco-friendly restaurant of DorDinAire, in Nouans-les-Fontaines, is hard to beat. Run by the charming Valérie and Thierry, they offer sensational seasonal dishes made with local produce.
The Da Vinci connection
For our final day, we visit one of the region's best-known landmarks: the Château Royal d'Amboise. Overlooking the Loire, this 'palace on a promontory' was a favourite of the French kings. With its Renaissance splendour, panoramic views and aerial gardens (designated a 'Jardin Remarquable'), I can see why.
This is also the final resting place for Leonardo da Vinci, whose tomb can be found in the exquisite little chapel of Saint-Hubert. In contrast to a certain painting at the Louvre, we are practically the only people there. At the nearby Château du Clos Lucé, where he spent his last days, his life is celebrated in one of the area's leading cultural attractions.
We then make a sojourn south again, back towards Loches, to squeeze in a visit to Chédigny. The only village to have the status of 'Jardin Remarquable', it is home to one thousand rose bushes, among many other plants and flowers. The annual Festival des Roses comes highly recommended, as does lunch at Le Clos aux Roses with its wisteria-covered terrace.
Au revoir, not goodbye
Later that afternoon, for our last stop-off, we head into Tours. Here, we find a city buzzing with locals, students and visitors, enjoying the rich heritage, eclectic mix of shops and array of museums. I make a mental note to return for the cathedral of Saint-Gatien with its flamboyant façade, the atmospheric exhibition space of Hôtel Goüin and a yoga session atop the Tour Charlemagne.
For now, we indulge in a gastronomic tour with the lovely Sheena from Food Tours in Tours. A highlight is the lively square of Place Plumereau with its timber-framed buildings surrounding canopied tables.
We end at the Guinguette de Tours, where we sip local wines as people sway to the sounds of swing and the sun sets over the river.
It's been a whistlestop tour but a wonderful week. My only regret is that I wish I'd seen more. Next on my list is the troglodyte caves, the riverside cycle route and a visit to Blois. In the meantime, like Victor Hugo with Chambord, I'll be asking anyone and everyone: Have you seen the Loire Valley?
