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The Guardian
04-07-2025
- The Guardian
‘Dizzying coastal paths, quiet beaches and dolphins': readers' highlights of the UK coastline
Between Aberystwyth and Cardigan the quiet coastline is sublime, with incredible sunsets, dizzying and spectacular coastal paths, gorgeous quiet beaches and dolphins. Start in Dylan Thomas's old stomping ground, New Quay, and follow the coastal path south along cliffs and past Cwmtydu beach before finishing at gorgeous Llangrannog, where you get two beaches for one (perfect Cliborth beach requires a lower tide to access). Kayaking and surfing are great, and the Pentre Arms provides refreshments with a Lunt The Leas near South Shields (a few miles north of Sunderland) is a beautiful stretch of limestone cliffs and coastal grassland that is a haven for sea birds and wildflowers. There are footpaths and bridle paths across the Leas, so it attracts cyclists, dog walkers and runners all year round. The local parkrun uses the paths and it must be one of the most scenic in the country. The rock stacks along the coast are a great place for spotting cormorants, fulmars and kittiwakes among others. No matter the weather I love to walks these paths and feel the fresh sea breeze through my hair. A wonderful Guardian Travel readers' tips Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage - Fife is a glorious peninsula bordered by a brilliant coastal path that takes in a variety of beaches, fishing villages and is an area rich in wildlife and diverse landscapes. The area from Crail to St Andrews is of particular beauty, with several gorgeous places to stop for lunch, such as Cambo Gardens cafe near Kingsbarns and the Cheesy Toast Shack at East Sands in St Andrews. There are loads of places to stay and use as a base to explore the region. The larch-clad cabins at Kinkell Byre offer the opportunity to rest in style. And farther north are the wonderful forest trails and sand dunes of Tentsmuir. Stevie Kirkwood Wander the banks of the River Fal and Helford River in south Cornwall, through ancient Celtic rainforest, where the trees meet the sea. This rare habitat gives us a glimpse of prehistory, with lichen-laden branches, crisp, damp air and some of the UK's rarest wildlife. It feels otherworldly, yet oddly familiar. Amy Penmon Point on the easternmost point of Ynys Môn is a great place to watch for sea birds. The stunning Trwyn Du lighthouse looks out to Puffin Island, and if you're lucky, one might fly right past you. But we have seen even more magic there when it gets dark. If conditions are just right, the waves light up electric blue with bioluminescent plankton as they crash over the pebbles. For refreshments, the Pilot House Cafe is nearby and has a fantastic view from its garden. Chris Jones You need to consult your tide tables before visiting Sunderland Point on Morecambe Bay. This extraordinary place of sea-sucked mudflats, salt marsh and vast skies is cut off daily at high tide. I cross the causeway in May when the sea pinks (sea thrift) are flowering and the air is bright with the cries of birds – oystercatchers, curlew and redshanks. It feels remote, but in the 18th century Sunderland Point was a bustling port for Lancaster's transatlantic trade, which brought prosperity but also inhumanity. A walk round the peninsula leads to the grave of an unknown child slave abandoned here in 1736, now adorned by visitors with painted stones. Its bleak beauty will break your Reavley Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion I've been walking my dog on the same stretch of coast for four years and I never tire of the sheer strangeness of it. Culmore Point is where Derry's River Foyle meets the North Atlantic. Some days you can see a line in the water where the silt-filled Foyle meets the sea. Beautiful old-money houses look out across the water to a power station and chemical plant. Farther downstream the weird treeless landscape of the reclaimed land of Eglinton Embankment catches the eye. Spare a thought too for the young men who trained on these river beaches in May 1944 for the Normandy assaults a month From West Kirby on Wirral, you can walk across the tidal flats of the Dee estuary to the red sandstone formations of Little Eye, Middle Eye, and Hilbre Island, a string of uninhabited islands offering naught but spectacular nature. In summer you can spot grey seals hauling themselves on to sandbanks, and three types of terns (common, little and sandwich) darting past. Listen out for skylarks and meadow pipits too. For an extra challenge, search for the Triassic-era Chirotherium footprint. Always check tide times carefully, and for extra awe, time your return to the sun setting low, framed by the distant Welsh Cycling along the North East Coastal Trail from Portsoy to Macduff in Aberdeenshire is my idea of heaven. In stunning coastal countryside you cycle through charming fishing villages with historic harbours. I've spotted dolphins, porpoises and seals on the route. On a rocky coastline just beyond Macduff, there's an old tidal pool at Tarlair. Though no longer used for swimming, its beautifully restored art deco tea pavilion is the perfect spot to refuel before your journey back. While there, take a short wander to the secluded Salmon Howie beach tucked behind the cliffs – it's such a beautiful Diender When, as a child, I read Z For Zachariah, I imagined a landscape with the exact fin-du-monde energy of the East Yorkshire beach from Ulrome to Bridlington. On this stretch of Holderness, you'll find neither the Norfolk chalk boards of iced latte and shakshuka nor the monastic ghosts of farther north. But if six miles of uninterrupted beach walk – in the company of nothing more glamorous than pure air, weather and proper decay (not the genteel sort) – is your thing, this is a place you should visit. Morcheeba soundtrack optional. Tired legs and a cleansed soul Ainley
The Guardian
28-03-2025
- The Guardian
‘All around us was the low hum of contented diners': readers' favourite places to eat in Europe
Sarajevo has to be one of the most underrated cities in Europe. A real east-west cultural melting pot with recent raw history, it's also one of the best places for Bosnian burek, delicious rolls of filled filo pastry that are served up cheap and quick in the cities numerous buregdžinica. You typically get a choice of three fillings: spicy potato, meat, or spinach and cheese, and you can order by weight (go for 500 grams for full satisfaction, about £5). A dollop of yoghurt perfectly complements this most addictive of staples, best washed down with a pivo (beer).Matt Lunt A cool glass of Märzen lager and a generous slab of delicious apple strudel await you in the Rodlhütte, a quaint cafe conveniently located on the trekking route that winds up from the village of Pertisau high into the glorious Karwendel mountains, in the heart of Austria's Tirol region. Providing for cross-country skiers in winter and hikers in summer, it also does tasty local cheeses, bacon, buttermilk and schnapps to savour while you take in spectacular views of the mountains and deep blue waters of Achensee. Sleighs can be rented in winter to take you back down to the village. Richard Guardian Travel readers' tips Every week we ask our readers for recommendations from their travels. A selection of tips will be featured online and may appear in print. To enter the latest competition visit the readers' tips homepage - Svoura in Koukaki, Athens, is central yet off the beaten track. Beautiful, simple Greek food with a flourish. I have spent a lot of time in Greece, and I came across the 'original' Svoura restaurant on Tinos island, in the Cyclades. This tiny Athens offshoot recreates the brilliant Tinian dishes perfectly. The variety plate of different types of hummus, and the simple creativity of the menu, is second to none. And it is ridiculously reasonable with each dish costing €5-€ We visited Grenoble last January, and instead of skiing we hunted around for the Alpine city's culinary delights. After a day's hiking, we squeezed into A Confesse for a hearty fondue. Based on the theme of confession, you enter the restaurant through a 'confession chamber' which opens out into a cosy space, perfect both for intimate dinners and family meals. The bread is in baskets hung from the ceiling which you pull down on a pulley system, the whole situation made us feel as though we were time-travelling. Overall, a memorable dining experience in a city that has so much more to offer than the ski slopes. Emily Agriturismo Conserva del Pollino, in the Monte Pollino national park in Basilicata, is miles from any major town but its restaurant has built a great reputation for celebration meals, and it's always packed. There's no menu, you just get whatever is being prepared that day. The food will keep coming steadily all afternoon – all local and traditional, but also imaginative and distinctive. Breads, antipasti, homemade pasta, grilled meats – all superb. A proper meal costs about €35-€40 a head all in, including wine and Casa Amor, a charming cafe in Olhão, Portugal, is run by two French guys who truly know their pastry. When I visited two years ago, I enjoyed a delicious fruit tart with the crispiest pastry and fresh strawberries, perfectly complemented by a creamy cappuccino. The interior was inviting, featuring beautiful Portuguese tiles on the floor and fresh whitewashed walls. Since then, the owners have expanded and opened a boutique hotel nearby, which I'm hoping to visit soon. Given their expertise with pastry, I'm excited to experience their hospitality in the new setting, expecting the same delightful attention to Jane Williams Sign up to The Traveller Get travel inspiration, featured trips and local tips for your next break, as well as the latest deals from Guardian Holidays after newsletter promotion The mournful Normandy coast on a wintry Saturday night still brings up the most surprising of culinary delights, despite a howling wind, a local population that appears out of nowhere, and a menu that would make any fishy fans weep with mouthwatering anticipation. The Restaurant La Marée, overlooking the harbour at Grandcamp-Maisy, is where it's at in these parts – nothing raucous, nothing flashy but stunning in its delivery. I started off with plump, juicy scallops, followed by a perfectly cooked sea bass, new potatoes and a concasse sauce of tomatoes, garlic and parsley, which went brilliantly with my choice of fish. All around us was the quiet, low hum of contented diners in taste bud bliss. The bill came in around €50 a head. Grandcamp also has a prize-winning bakery that beguiles with its tarte normande (apple tart).Liz Northern Spain is world renowned for excellent food – even in unassuming locations. On a rail trip we sought to grab food at Santander station. The grand 19th-century station bar serves only omelettes, which are opulently displayed like celebration cakes. I chose the €4 crispy potato, garlic cream sauce and succulent Parma ham variety, which oozed over my hands as I ate it on the train. It was such a memorable meal that I hope to return to try the If in the Ripon area, please do try a lovely, authentic Italian restaurant called Mario's, which is near the cathedral. It has been our favourite place to eat out for more than 10 years. Run by an Italian family, the restaurant is unpretentious and offers Italian staples and a thoughtful range of pasta-based and fish dishes. The lasagne is outrageously good and all of the pizzas are light, flavoursome and perfectly prepared. It is a North Yorkshire treasure, but then again they do say Yorkshire is God's own Nichols Right by Trondheim's railway station, on the harbourside, Troll serves up some of the best Nordic food I've ever had. The highlight? Pinnekjøtt (lamb ribs) so tender it practically melts, with a rich, gamey flavour balanced by sweet cloudberries and a hint of juniper. The cosy, rustic vibe makes it feel like a proper Norwegian experience, especially with a glass of aquavit. Sitting there, watching the water, tucking into incredible food, it's the kind of meal that sticks with you long after you've left. Sabine Groven
