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Courier-Mail
06-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Courier-Mail
Matt Preston risks riling haters to name No.1 butter chicken
Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. It seemed such a simple assignment. Australia loves no other curry like it does butter chicken. It's the only curry to turn up regularly on lists of the country's most-cooked dishes. So why not go to India and eat the best butter chicken? It all started with my understanding – backed by extensive research – that butter chicken was invented as a way to sell last night's tandoori chicken that was now a little dried out. The orthodoxy (challenged by some) is that a young chef, Kundan Lal Jaggi, cooking in the Gora Bazaar in Peshawar had invented the dish. When Partition came in 1947, he and two mates from the restaurant, Kundan Lal Gujral and Thakur Das Mago, moved to Delhi and opened a restaurant, the Moti Mahal. Here this delicious smoky chicken in a sauce singing with tomato, yoghurt, garlic and butter became a hit. I tracked down what was purported to be an original recipe when little was used to spice the dish other than chilli and cumin. And that's where the problems started. You see, Indians take their butter chicken very seriously. An internet storm erupted when I said dried fenugreek leaves weren't used in the original recipe – hundreds posted that I was an idiot for even suggesting it. Some questioned the role of Peshawar in this epic culinary success. Butter chicken is a favourite for Australians - but in India, it's serious business. I was also berated when we had Saransh Goila on MasterChef back in the day – he'd done a pop-up with his butter chicken as part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival and I had the temerity to say I enjoyed it. Again with the angry emojis. The almost religious fervour butter chicken seems to inspire fuelled my desire to get to Delhi. I arrived to be told by my local expert that the Moti Mahal had been sold to new owners and was now a pale imitation of the original that created not just butter chicken but also the wonderfully rich lentil dish dahl makhani and the tandoori-roasted lamb chop barra kebab. The trouble was a massive legal stoush had erupted between descendants of two of the original partners at the Moti Mahal. They'd both started butter chicken businesses, Moti Mahal Delux and Daryaganj, and had turned to the Delhi High Court – and I'll simplify things here – to decide who had the right to claim their butter chicken was the original (the case drags on as far as I know). So I thought it'd be fun to taste both of the bitter butter chicken rivals on camera with my ol' mate Gary Mehigan and then ask viewers on Instagram to vote for which they liked best. An astonishing 26,439 people voted, but more amazing was that 23 per cent nominated a 'better' butter chicken. Two names were the most suggested: Havemore and Gulati. It was supposed to be simple – go to the place where butter chicken was invented and write about it. Now I had due diligence to do. Next time I was in India, the chef at the restaurant where I was doing a couple of dinners organised couriers to collect 10 of Delhi's most notable versions, including from Moti Mahal Delux (nice cardamom hit) and Daryaganj ('chunky, onions, traditional' are my notes). They were all pretty good – some sweeter, some more tomato forward. The smoky one the chef made was up the top along with the buttery version from Havemore. Gulati was recovering from a fire so it wasn't represented. Yes, this is a saga. India's greatest chef Sanjeev Kapoor described butter chicken to me as 'a restaurant dish' so I felt I needed to taste the favourites in situ. This search continued over the next year when I visited India four more times. Whenever I met someone from Delhi, I'd ask them for the best butter chicken. Gulati and Havemore almost always popped up. Conveniently, the two restaurants are no more than 20m apart in a small neon-lit market off the Pandara Road. On my next visit I went to Havemore and was blown away. Not just by the butter chicken but also the breads and the murgh malai (creamy marinated tandoori chicken that's gnarly at the edges from the oven's heat but still incredibly juicy). None of the six of us dining had ever had butter chicken as good. I ate at the renovated Gulati on my next visit and it too was wonderful – slightly sweeter and more tomatoey. It was too close to call with just the one visit to Havemore so I went back this April. How could I have predicted the looming disaster? Delhi was in the middle of the Navaratri festival when it's typical to adopt the sattvic diet. Meat and grains were off the menu so Havemore was only serving a vegetarian menu. No murgh malai. No garlic naan. No butter chicken. I was crestfallen. Does 15 months on this journey end here? Without the confirmation I crave? If this was a doco we'd cut to an ad break here – and you'd be left holding your breath at the drama of it all. The butter chicken at Havemore restaurant rates as Matt Preston's No.1. As I wandered back to the car one of the waiters rushed out to say they have another Havemore on the other side of the road in Bikaner House, an old mansion that's now a cultural centre. I was elated. The dining room was pumping and the bread and murgh malai were on the menu and as good as at its sister restaurant. And the butter chicken? With two mouthfuls it was confirmed. Even better. I can happily say the butter chicken at the Havemore on Pandara Road is the best I've ever tasted – and when the miffed fans of Gulati and the other great butter chicken versions of Delhi come at me I'll say, 'You do you! But I'm happiest eating the butter chicken at Havemore.' And, boy, will they come! Originally published as Matt Preston fires shot in bitter butter chicken battle
Straits Times
28-04-2025
- Straits Times
Lush landscapes and a gourmet trail in Gippsland near Melbourne
GIPPSLAND, Australia – Lush green pastures dotted with cows and sheep. Roads fringed by native bush and towering gum trees. Gippsland, a fertile region in Victoria, Australia, is best known for its beef and dairy, such as the Gippsland Dairy yogurt stacked in Singapore's supermarket chillers. Beyond that lies a region brimming with stories, flavour and nature. Besides its rural scenery, I am struck by the passionate, friendly folks and the palpable sense of community when I arrive in April. I meet local producers championing sustainability and regenerative farming. Many had left city jobs to start a new life here, drawn by the land and a desire to create something meaningful. Gippsland is the largest region in Victoria in both area and population. Stretching from outer Melbourne to the state's easternmost edge near the New South Wales border, it is home to a wide range of landscapes, from Victorian snowfields and rainforest to rolling farmland to dramatic coastline. Gippsland is located two to four hours by road from state capital Melbourne, depending on which part of the vast region you choose to explore. The region still largely attracts a domestic market. Between 2020 and 2024, the average annual growth for total domestic visitors to Greater Gippsland was 8.1 per cent and East Gippsland 6.1 per cent. Wilsons Promontory National Park boasts unique rock formations. PHOTO: VISIT VICTORIA Gippsland is also often visited by those who drive between Melbourne and Sydney. There has been some recent interest from Singapore-based visitors because of the remote nature, open space, good food and wine. However, it is still a hidden gem for travellers from Asia. Wilsons Prom – including Skull Rock or Cleft Island – is the key infrastructure development for tourism . This was a game changer for the region along with the opening of Metung Hot Springs in November 2022. Chef Michael Wilson of Singapore's one-Michelin-starred restaurant Marguerite, who was born and raised in Gippsland, returned to his home town to collaborate with restaurant in Beaconsfield as part of the Melbourne Food and Wine Festival in March. He says: 'Regional restaurants, and even some in Melbourne, are proudly showcasing Gippsland produce, and it's helping to shine a light on the incredible growers, makers and artisans behind it all.' Foodies who visit restaurants in this area can expect everything from artisanal cheese to grass-fed beef to seasonal vegetables. Wine lists typically feature local labels from this cool-climate region, along with small-batch ciders and craft beers. On a five-day trip, I discover some of the best produce the area has to offer. Local sips Loch Brewery & Distillery offers beer-tasting opportunities. PHOTO: VISIT VICTORIA At Loch Brewery & Distillery ( enjoy a personalised tasting experience at the historic cellar door, housed in the village's former bank, a 100-year-old red-brick building with a picket fence (Whisky Flight at A$40 or S$33.60, Cocktail Sampler at A$38, Gin Flight at A$28 and Beer Paddle at A$20). The cellar door opens every Friday, Saturday and Sunday, from 11am to 4pm on a walk-in basis only. The British-style brewery is in the adjoining former butcher's shop. In warmer weather, enjoy a few sips in the courtyard of Loch Brewery & Distillery. PHOTO: VISIT VICTORIA Founder Craig Johnson has been producing small-batch ales, gins infused with native botanicals, rum and single-malt whisky for about 10 years. He uses natural brewing methods, along with handcrafted Alembic copper stills custom-made in Portugal as well as European barrels for ageing. 'Loch was quiet and quaint years ago. After we opened, the change in the town was dramatic and it's gone from strength to strength,' says the brewer and distiller, who started making whisky and beer and moved into gin production after six months. 'Overnight, our business doubled, largely because the gin 'boom' started around that time,' he adds. A range of canned and bottled ciders are sold at Gurneys cellar door. PHOTO: VISIT VICTORIA Another cellar door worth visiting is Gurneys Cidery ( run by the Gurnett family – Bill and Lorraine, along with their sons Tom and James – who emigrated from Somerset, England, in 2001. Hankering for Britain's traditional dry ciders, it found the perfect plot of land on 343 Fish Creek-Foster Road to grow heritage apple and pear varieties, and began crafting their own. Gurneys Apples for processing. PHOTO: VISIT VICTORIA Led by Mr Gurnett, a former park ranger, the family now produces small-batch ciders using a blend of traditional and modern techniques. Gurneys follows a winery-style approach, producing a single vintage of cider each year – bottles full of terroir and seasonal nuance. He says: 'We have the philosophy that if you treat cider as a wine – age it and treat it with the same respect – you can make very good cider . Cider has very much been forgotten, so we're trying to elevate it to be on a par with wine .' He shows our group of two around the production facility before we head into the underground cellar to taste some exclusive ciders, including a seven-year-old apple brandy. Offered in the underground tasting are four exclusive ciders made in small batches and available only at the cellar door. The bottled and canned ciders are sold predominantly at the cellar door. But the brand's wholesale ciders – made in larger quantities – are available in restaurants, bars and bottle shops throughout Victoria. Enjoy a cider tour and tasting at Gurneys Cidery. PHOTO: VISIT VICTORIA Guests can join the Underground Cider Tour tour for A$38 a person or A$289 for a private tour of up to 10 people. The tours usually run for 50 minutes, followed by lunch (priced separately) on the deck overlooking the hills and Wilsons Promontory. Small town is big on flavour We continue our culinary exploration in South Gippsland's Meeniyan, a small town of 800 residents. Naturally, everyone seems to know everyone. Modern Cambodian dishes to try at Mahob at Moo's. PHOTO: NICKY CAWOOD In the evening, we make our way to modern Cambodian restaurant Mahob at Moo's ( helmed by chef Woody Chet. He previously ran Amok Restaurant serving modern Cambodian cuisine in Melbourne's Chapel Street. He relocated to Gippsland and opened Mahob at Moo' s in August 2024 with his family for a slower pace of life. The space is convivial, warm and vibrant. A procession of specialities emerges from the kitchen, including grilled local tiger prawn with sweet and sour yellow kroeung curry, Kampot peppercorn sauce and chargrilled pineapple, as well as slow-cooked Gippsland beef ribs with caramelised coconut. We round off the meal with crispy, sweet, sticky red rice balls paired with coconut ice cream. Mains range from A$25 to A$38. Outdoor dining at Trulli. PHOTO: TRULLI Just across the road is Trulli ( run by brothers Francesco and Claudio Laera from Puglia, Italy. The joint is best known for its pizzas, but also offers a variety of southern Italian dishes such as mussels cooked in 'nduja, or spicy pork sausage, and tomato; lamb ragu pasta; and perfectly crisp cannoli. Mains range from A$22 to A$32. Gourmands can do post-meal shopping at the adjacent pantry, stocked with a curated selection of Trulli's lasagnas, cheeses, cold cuts, pastries and local groceries, and a selection of wines from Gippsland and Italy. 'People like the team at Mahob at Moo's, and the Italian brothers at Trulli are bringing a rich mix of culture, heritage and innovation to the region,' says chef Wilson. 'The quality coming out of Gippsland now is exceptional, and that's a direct result of the passion everyone we visited has for their craft. It's inspiring to witness,' he adds. Rural retreats The owner of Ross Farm designed all the interiors, including the Barn. PHOTO: ROSS FARM Satiated from our feasting, we drive to our accommodation at Ross Farm ( from A $400 a night for the one-bedroom Cabin) , which serves as our base for the next couple of nights . It is a restorative retreat – a place to disconnect and slow down. Dreamed up by interior designer Andrea Moore and built by her father Lindsay Moore, a retired vet, the former dairy farm has been transformed into three beautifully minimalist lodgings: the Cabin, Barn and Dairy. About 20 years ago, Ms Moore's parents bought this former working dairy farm. 'The layout was determined by what was existing here. My dad's philosophy was to design and build what we could. So, a lot of the furniture was made by him, while I designed the lighting,' she says. We stay in the three-bedroom Dairy, which has a large modern kitchen complete with an induction cooker and a fridge stocked with essentials such as tea, coffee, milk, eggs, bread, butter and bacon. Guests who want to cook can purchase seasonal vegetables from nearby farms like Flock Stock & Basil ( mushrooms from Wattle Bank Farm ( or olive oil and honey from the nearby family-run Grassy Spur Olive Grove ( Metung Hot Springs' barrel bath. PHOTO: SALLY SEES METUNG More rural retreats are scattered throughout the region. If relaxing in a hot spring and glamping sounds like your kind of getaway, visit Metung Hot Springs, Victoria's new wellness destination. It is located in East Gippsland, about a three-hour drive from Meeniyan. Set on an undulating site overlooking the Gippsland Lakes, Metung Hot Springs ( offers a variety of bathing facilities. Guests can enjoy full access to the property's range of hot pools, bathing barrels and sauna. Each glamping tent features luxe furnishings, a king-size four-poster bed and an en-suite bathroom. On your private deck are bathing barrels filled with warm geothermal water. Included in the stay are thoughtful touches such as breakfast delivered to your accommodation, welcome sweet treats and a wellness gift hamper. Glamping tents start at A $680 a night. Nature's playground Lush greenery flanks the beach at Wilsons Promontory. PHOTO: VISIT VICTORIA To burn off some calories, we visit Wilsons Promontory National Park, about 30 minutes by road from Ross Farm. Known as 'The Prom', this is one of Victoria's most beloved parks, with vast stretches of coastal wilderness. We stroll along the famous white sands of Squeaky Beach , named for the squeaking sound made by its fine quartz sand, and gaze at turquoise waters. For wildlife lovers, the Prom Wildlife Walk begins at the viewing area and winds through grasslands for 2.3km . You might spot kangaroos, wombats and wallabies. Ultimately, Gippsland offers a different kind of travel experience. Those who are willing to trade the comfort of the familiar for the excitement of the unknown will not be disappointed. This region may be somewhat off-grid, but its bounty is waiting to be discovered. Travel tips Singapore Airlines flies non-stop from Singapore to Melbourne. Economy fares start at $788. Passengers who have KrisFlyer membership can enjoy free unlimited in-flight Wi-Fi across all cabin classes. The best way to get around Gippsland's attractions is via car. Rental companies are located at Melbourne Airport and Melbourne city centre. Car rental from Hertz, for example, starts at A$95 a day with basic insurance, based on rates for a Toyota Camry or an equivalent vehicle . There are private day tours or extended tours to Gippsland, such as food and wine tours ( and experiences from Explore Australia Tou rs ( Since Gippsland is huge, plan for around three to five days in the region to explore it at a leisurely pace. The time to visit depends on what you want to do. For warm weather and beach activities, visit in summer (December to February, the temperature is about 21 to 25 deg C). If you prefer milder temperatures and enjoy hiking, autumn (March to May, 14 to 22 deg C ) and spring (September to November, 11 to 23 deg C) are great. For whale watching, late autumn and early winter (May to November) is a good time as they migrate through the region. The writer was hosted by Visit Victoria. Amy Van is a freelance writer. Join ST's Telegram channel and get the latest breaking news delivered to you.
