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The Star
08-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Star
Beyond the Met Gala, dressing like a dandy is timeless – here's how to do it
Michael Henry Adams had reached a fashion crossroads by the early 1970s. As bell bottoms and afros became the trend and the look of film figures like John Shaft and "Super Fly' became style prototypes, the teenager felt unrepresented. But a previous trip to the Museum of Modern Art, for its "Harlem On My Mind' exhibit, had already begun to lay down his fashion foundation. "When I saw those photographs of elegant Harlemites promenading up and down Seventh Avenue and Lennox Avenue... the raccoon coats and fox coats, and spangled gowns, and bowler hats – all this satirical splendor... I thought, 'Oh! There is another way for me to be authentically Black,'' recalled the New York-based cultural and architectural historian, now 69. The style Adams would embrace had a name: dandyism. And dandyism was at the heart of Monday's Met Gala (May 5), where many of the world's most famous and influential tastemakers donned their luxury best to kick off the "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' exhibit. But Black dandyism isn't limited to expensive couture – it's displayed daily. "It's everywhere in the Black community, the notion of what a dandy is,' explained Adams, who was photographed for the "Superfine' catalogue. "The ingeniousness and ingenuity and creativity of Black people, so far as fashion was concerned, it's always been with us.' Read more: What is dandyism? This bold fashion movement has long redefined elegance As the menswear-focused exhibit – the Costume Institute's first to exclusively display Black designers – opens to the public Saturday (May 10), here are tips from dandies on embracing the style in everyday life. Dandies say the key to a distinctive look first begins on the inside. "Fashion's a sense of personality. Two guys can go to the same store and get the same outfit and look totally different,' said Guy Wood, 62, the stylish co-owner of Harlem Haberdashery. Inspired by family members and dapper Harlem neighbours, he developed a knack for style early. "It's confidence... you walk in the room, and all the heads turn.' Michael Andrew, a 42-year-old Atlanta-based style consultant, first delved into dandyism after being inspired by Fonzworth Bentley, most recognised as Sean "Diddy' Combs' often-photographed assistant and umbrella holder in the early 2000s. Bentley's colourful outfits and tailored outfits separated himself from the hip-hop era's prevalent baggy look. "A lot of guys think that being a dandy is about being over the top,' said Andrew, who was photographed for Rose Callahan's 2013 book I Am Dandy: The Return Of The Elegant Gentleman ". "For me, dandyism is the highest form of taste with self-expression.' The foundation of dandyism rests upon tenets such as bold colours and fine tailoring, but there's no singular way to achieve the look. Each dandy creates their own unique style, often centred on specific elements. Michael Henry Adams embraces the dandyism style of dressing. Photo: AP For Wood, who refers to crafting looks as making gumbo, it starts with suits. "Wearing a suit, you just feel important,' said Wood, who often pairs them with brogue shoes of various bright colours. "We love well-tailored.' James McFarland, an 80-year-old master tailor, says a dandy's affinity for tailoring is easy to understand: "It's very simple: we're a visual world. When you wear something that's fine tailored and it's fitting you well, people look at that.' Known as "Gentleman Jim', McFarland was tutored by Orie Walls, the go-to Harlem-based tailor of the 1960s. McFarland says they crafted suits for nearly every famous Black male celebrity of the time, from Duke Ellington to Jackie Robinson to Muhammad Ali – as well as some of the era's most infamous characters, like gangsters Frank Lucas and Bumpy Johnson. He says wearing a suit "makes you feel better". "You ever heard the term styling and profiling?' is the question he poses. While Adams, the historian, is drawn to bow ties, buck shoes and straw hats, Andrew says the beauty of dandyism is making it your own. "Texture is the must-have when you start talking about dandyism – textures and patterns. The great point here is that dandies always have their thing. And so, for me, hats are my thing,' Andrew said, adding that small accessories, like stylish wool or cashmere socks and pocket squares, can easily elevate a look. "Now, it's starting to become glasses… Every dandy has the opportunity to utilise something.' Wood says creativity is essential to becoming a dandy – not a high income. "That's a cheat code,' said Wood. "It is being creative… most of us don't have a lot of money. You might go in your mom's closet and (think), 'Oh, that scarf is fly.' You tie it around your neck and lay it over your shoulder. You just can't be scared.' Adams says while style and inspiration can go hand-in-hand, individuality should always be paramount. "People should find their truth and aspire to look like themselves,' he said, noting he shops at a variety of stores, from the high-end Brooks Brothers to off-price and discount stores like Marshalls and K&G Fashion. "Part of the thing that made me rebel against looking like 'Super Fly' or 'Shaft' is I didn't want to look like everybody else.' Read more: An early look at the Met Gala fashion exhibition exploring Black dandyism Jacques Agbobly, a designer whose clothes are featured in the Met exhibit, agrees. "There are people who would really just think it's about the suit that you're wearing and the top hat… but for me, and I think that's what this exhibition does really fondly, is really putting together a group of amazing clothing that really redefines what dandyism is,' he said. For the Togo-born designer, "taking up space is a sort of open-ended thing in a way', whether it's achieved through colours, silhouettes or fabric choices. A general consensus among dandies is that society has embraced casualness, shunning the well-dressed looks of the past. McFarland, the tailor, says his profession isn't as admired or used in US as it was years ago. He teaches fine tailoring as he has for decades, and is planning to start a podcast to discuss the craft and his adventures styling celebrities of his era. "When I grew up, I wanted to look like the people in the neighbourhood,' he said, explaining his mother couldn't afford the clothes he wanted, leading him to tailoring. "Everybody, male and female, was dressed up.' Andrew hopes that same stylish spirit of yesteryear can make a resurgence, believing appearance and pride work together. "I would challenge or would encourage all of us, especially as Black people, to remember our history, to remember that we used to throw on our Sunday's best,' he said. "We wanted to show up as the best versions of ourselves.' The "Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' exhibit, which will run through October, is sure to introduce visitors to the most elevated forms of Black dandyism. But for Wood and fellow daily dandies, it's just business as usual. "The fact that the Met realises that is a beautiful thing,' he said with a sly smile. "But we've been doing this forever and we really not paying attention to it. We just do it because we love it.' – AP
Winnipeg Free Press
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Winnipeg Free Press
The Met Gala is over, but dandyism isn't. Here's how to dress like a dandy in everyday life
NEW YORK (AP) — Michael Henry Adams had reached a fashion crossroads by the early 1970s: As bell bottoms and afros became the trend and the look of film figures like John Shaft and 'Super Fly' became style prototypes, the teenager felt unrepresented. But a previous trip to the Museum of Modern Art, for its 'Harlem On My Mind' exhibit, had already begun to lay down his fashion foundation. 'When I saw those photographs of elegant Harlemites promenading up and down Seventh Avenue and Lennox Avenue … the raccoon coats and fox coats, and spangled gowns, and bowler hats — all this satirical splendor … I thought, 'Oh! There is another way for me to be authentically Black,'' recalled the New York-based cultural and architectural historian, now 69. Cultural and architectural historian Michael Henry Adams poses for a portrait on Thursday, May 1, 2025, in New York. (AP Photo/Gary Gerard Hamilton) The style Adams would embrace had a name: dandyism. And dandyism was at the heart of Monday's Met Gala, where many of the world's most famous and influential tastemakers donned their luxury best to kick off the 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' exhibit. But Black dandyism isn't limited to expensive couture — it's displayed daily. 'It's everywhere in the Black community, the notion of what a dandy is,' explained Adams, who was photographed for the 'Superfine' catalog. 'The ingeniousness and ingenuity and creativity of Black people, so far as fashion was concerned, it's always been with us.' As the menswear-focused exhibit — the Costume Institute's first to exclusively display Black designers — opens to the public Saturday, here are tips from dandies on embracing the style in everyday life. Tip 1: Start with confidence Dandies say the key to a distinctive look first begins on the inside. 'Fashion's a sense of personality. Two guys can go to the same store and get the same outfit and look totally different,' said Guy Wood, 62, the stylish co-owner of Harlem Haberdashery. Inspired by family members and dapper Harlem neighbors, he developed a knack for style early. 'It's confidence … you walk in the room, and all the heads turn.' Michael Andrew, a 42-year-old Atlanta-based style consultant, first delved into dandyism after being inspired by Fonzworth Bentley, most recognized as Sean 'Diddy' Combs' often-photographed assistant and umbrella holder in the early 2000s. Bentley's colorful outfits and tailored outfits separated himself from the hip-hop era's prevalent baggy look. 'A lot of guys think that being a dandy is about being over the top,' said Andrew, who was photographed for Rose Callahan's 2013 book 'I Am Dandy: The Return of the Elegant Gentleman.' 'For me, dandyism is the highest form of taste with self-expression.' Tip 2: Opt for the statement pieces The foundation of dandyism rests upon tenets such as bold colors and fine tailoring, but there's no singular way to achieve the look. Each dandy creates their own unique style, often centered on specific elements. For Wood, who refers to crafting looks as making gumbo, it starts with suits. 'Wearing a suit, you just feel important,' said Wood, who often pairs them with brogue shoes of various bright colors. 'We love well-tailored.' James McFarland, an 80-year-old master tailor, says a dandy's affinity for tailoring is easy to understand: 'It's very simple: we're a visual world. When you wear something that's fine tailored and it's fitting you well, people look at that.' Known as 'Gentleman Jim,' McFarland was tutored by Orie Walls, the go-to Harlem-based tailor of the 1960s. McFarland says they crafted suits for nearly every famous Black male celebrity of the time, from Duke Ellington to Jackie Robinson to Muhammad Ali — as well as some of the era's most infamous characters, like gangsters Frank Lucas and Bumpy Johnson. He says wearing a suit 'makes you feel better. You ever heard the term styling and profiling?' While Adams, the historian, is drawn to bow ties, buck shoes and straw hats, Andrew says the beauty of dandyism is making it your own. 'Texture is the must-have when you start talking about dandyism — textures and patterns. The great point here is that dandies always have their thing. And so, for me, hats are my thing,' Andrew said, adding that small accessories, like stylish wool or cashmere socks and pocket squares, can easily elevate a look. 'Now, it's starting to become glasses. … Every dandy has the opportunity to utilize something.' Tip 3: Creativity is worth more than cash Wood says creativity is essential to becoming a dandy — not a high income. 'That's a cheat code,' said Wood. 'It is being creative … most of us don't have a lot of money. You might go in your mom's closet and (think), 'Oh, that scarf is fly.' You tie it around your neck and lay it over your shoulder. You just can't be scared.' Adams says while style and inspiration can go hand-in-hand, individuality should always be paramount. 'People should find their truth and aspire to look like themselves,' he said, noting he shops at a variety of stores, from the high-end Brooks Brothers to off-price and discount stores like Marshalls and K&G Fashion. 'Part of the thing that made me rebel against looking like 'Super Fly' or 'Shaft' is I didn't want to look like everybody else.' Jacques Agbobly, a designer whose clothes are featured in the Met exhibit, agrees. 'There are people who would really just think it's about the suit that you're wearing and the top hat … but for me, and I think that's what this exhibition does really fondly, is really putting together a group of amazing clothing that really redefines what dandyism is,' he said. For the Togo-born designer, 'taking up space is a sort of open-ended thing in a way,' whether it's achieved through colors, silhouettes or fabric choices. Tip 4: Avoid the crisis of casualness A general consensus among dandies is that society has embraced casualness, shunning the well-dressed looks of the past. McFarland, the tailor, says his profession isn't as admired or used in U.S. as it was years ago. He teaches fine tailoring as he has for decades, and is planning to start a podcast to discuss the craft and his adventures styling celebrities of his era. 'When I grew up, I wanted to look like the people in the neighborhood,' he said, explaining his mother couldn't afford the clothes he wanted, leading him to tailoring. 'Everybody, male and female, was dressed up.' Andrew hopes that same stylish spirit of yesteryear can make a resurgence, believing appearance and pride work together. Winnipeg Free Press | Newsletter Winnipeg Jets Game Days On Winnipeg Jets game days, hockey writers Mike McIntyre and Ken Wiebe send news, notes and quotes from the morning skate, as well as injury updates and lineup decisions. Arrives a few hours prior to puck drop. Sign up for The Warm-Up 'I would challenge or would encourage all of us, especially as Black people, to remember our history, to remember that we used to throw on our Sunday's best,' he said. 'We wanted to show up as the best versions of ourselves.' The 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' exhibit, which will run through October, is sure to introduce visitors to the most elevated forms of Black dandyism. But for Wood and fellow daily dandies, it's just business as usual. 'The fact that the Met realizes that is a beautiful thing,' he said with a sly smile. 'But we've been doing this forever and we really not paying attention to it. We just do it because we love it.' ___ Follow Associated Press entertainment journalist Gary Gerard Hamilton at @GaryGHamilton on all his social media platforms.
The Independent
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- The Independent
The Met Gala is over, but dandyism isn't. Here's how to dress like a dandy in everyday life
Michael Henry Adams had reached a fashion crossroads by the early 1970s: As bell bottoms and afros became the trend and the look of film figures like John Shaft and 'Super Fly' became style prototypes, the teenager felt unrepresented. But a previous trip to the Museum of Modern Art, for its ' Harlem On My Mind' exhibit, had already begun to lay down his fashion foundation. 'When I saw those photographs of elegant Harlemites promenading up and down Seventh Avenue and Lennox Avenue ... the raccoon coats and fox coats, and spangled gowns, and bowler hats — all this satirical splendor ... I thought, 'Oh! There is another way for me to be authentically Black,'' recalled the New York-based cultural and architectural historian, now 69. The style Adams would embrace had a name: dandyism. And dandyism was at the heart of Monday's Met Gala, where many of the world's most famous and influential tastemakers donned their luxury best to kick off the 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' exhibit. But Black dandyism isn't limited to expensive couture — it's displayed daily. 'It's everywhere in the Black community, the notion of what a dandy is,' explained Adams, who was photographed for the 'Superfine' catalog. 'The ingeniousness and ingenuity and creativity of Black people, so far as fashion was concerned, it's always been with us.' As the menswear-focused exhibit — the Costume Institute's first to exclusively display Black designers — opens to the public Saturday, here are tips from dandies on embracing the style in everyday life. Tip 1: Start with confidence Dandies say the key to a distinctive look first begins on the inside. 'Fashion's a sense of personality. Two guys can go to the same store and get the same outfit and look totally different,' said Guy Wood, 62, the stylish co-owner of Harlem Haberdashery. Inspired by family members and dapper Harlem neighbors, he developed a knack for style early. 'It's confidence ... you walk in the room, and all the heads turn.' Michael Andrew, a 42-year-old Atlanta-based style consultant, first delved into dandyism after being inspired by Fonzworth Bentley, most recognized as Sean 'Diddy' Combs' often-photographed assistant and umbrella holder in the early 2000s. Bentley's colorful outfits and tailored outfits separated himself from the hip-hop era's prevalent baggy look. 'A lot of guys think that being a dandy is about being over the top,' said Andrew, who was photographed for Rose Callahan's 2013 book "I Am Dandy: The Return of the Elegant Gentleman.' 'For me, dandyism is the highest form of taste with self-expression.' Tip 2: Opt for the statement pieces The foundation of dandyism rests upon tenets such as bold colors and fine tailoring, but there's no singular way to achieve the look. Each dandy creates their own unique style, often centered on specific elements. For Wood, who refers to crafting looks as making gumbo, it starts with suits. 'Wearing a suit, you just feel important,' said Wood, who often pairs them with brogue shoes of various bright colors. 'We love well-tailored.' James McFarland, an 80-year-old master tailor, says a dandy's affinity for tailoring is easy to understand: 'It's very simple: we're a visual world. When you wear something that's fine tailored and it's fitting you well, people look at that.' Known as 'Gentleman Jim,' McFarland was tutored by Orie Walls, the go-to Harlem-based tailor of the 1960s. McFarland says they crafted suits for nearly every famous Black male celebrity of the time, from Duke Ellington to Jackie Robinson to Muhammad Ali — as well as some of the era's most infamous characters, like gangsters Frank Lucas and Bumpy Johnson. He says wearing a suit 'makes you feel better. You ever heard the term styling and profiling?' While Adams, the historian, is drawn to bow ties, buck shoes and straw hats, Andrew says the beauty of dandyism is making it your own. 'Texture is the must-have when you start talking about dandyism — textures and patterns. The great point here is that dandies always have their thing. And so, for me, hats are my thing,' Andrew said, adding that small accessories, like stylish wool or cashmere socks and pocket squares, can easily elevate a look. 'Now, it's starting to become glasses. … Every dandy has the opportunity to utilize something.' Tip 3: Creativity is worth more than cash Wood says creativity is essential to becoming a dandy — not a high income. 'That's a cheat code,' said Wood. 'It is being creative … most of us don't have a lot of money. You might go in your mom's closet and (think), 'Oh, that scarf is fly.' You tie it around your neck and lay it over your shoulder. You just can't be scared.' Adams says while style and inspiration can go hand-in-hand, individuality should always be paramount. ' People should find their truth and aspire to look like themselves,' he said, noting he shops at a variety of stores, from the high-end Brooks Brothers to off-price and discount stores like Marshalls and K&G Fashion. 'Part of the thing that made me rebel against looking like 'Super Fly' or 'Shaft' is I didn't want to look like everybody else.' Jacques Agbobly, a designer whose clothes are featured in the Met exhibit, agrees. 'There are people who would really just think it's about the suit that you're wearing and the top hat … but for me, and I think that's what this exhibition does really fondly, is really putting together a group of amazing clothing that really redefines what dandyism is,' he said. For the Togo-born designer, 'taking up space is a sort of open-ended thing in a way,' whether it's achieved through colors, silhouettes or fabric choices. Tip 4: Avoid the crisis of casualness A general consensus among dandies is that society has embraced casualness, shunning the well-dressed looks of the past. McFarland, the tailor, says his profession isn't as admired or used in U.S. as it was years ago. He teaches fine tailoring as he has for decades, and is planning to start a podcast to discuss the craft and his adventures styling celebrities of his era. 'When I grew up, I wanted to look like the people in the neighborhood,' he said, explaining his mother couldn't afford the clothes he wanted, leading him to tailoring. 'Everybody, male and female, was dressed up.' Andrew hopes that same stylish spirit of yesteryear can make a resurgence, believing appearance and pride work together. 'I would challenge or would encourage all of us, especially as Black people, to remember our history, to remember that we used to throw on our Sunday's best,' he said. 'We wanted to show up as the best versions of ourselves.' The 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' exhibit, which will run through October, is sure to introduce visitors to the most elevated forms of Black dandyism. But for Wood and fellow daily dandies, it's just business as usual. 'The fact that the Met realizes that is a beautiful thing,' he said with a sly smile. 'But we've been doing this forever and we really not paying attention to it. We just do it because we love it.' ___
Associated Press
07-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Associated Press
The Met Gala is over, but dandyism isn't. Here's how to dress like a dandy in everyday life
NEW YORK (AP) — Michael Henry Adams had reached a fashion crossroads by the early 1970s: As bell bottoms and afros became the trend and the look of film figures like John Shaft and 'Super Fly' became style prototypes, the teenager felt unrepresented. But a previous trip to the Museum of Modern Art, for its 'Harlem On My Mind' exhibit, had already begun to lay down his fashion foundation. 'When I saw those photographs of elegant Harlemites promenading up and down Seventh Avenue and Lennox Avenue ... the raccoon coats and fox coats, and spangled gowns, and bowler hats — all this satirical splendor ... I thought, 'Oh! There is another way for me to be authentically Black,'' recalled the New York-based cultural and architectural historian, now 69. The style Adams would embrace had a name: dandyism. And dandyism was at the heart of Monday's Met Gala, where many of the world's most famous and influential tastemakers donned their luxury best to kick off the 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' exhibit. But Black dandyism isn't limited to expensive couture — it's displayed daily. 'It's everywhere in the Black community, the notion of what a dandy is,' explained Adams, who was photographed for the 'Superfine' catalog. 'The ingeniousness and ingenuity and creativity of Black people, so far as fashion was concerned, it's always been with us.' As the menswear-focused exhibit — the Costume Institute's first to exclusively display Black designers — opens to the public Saturday, here are tips from dandies on embracing the style in everyday life. Tip 1: Start with confidence Dandies say the key to a distinctive look first begins on the inside. 'Fashion's a sense of personality. Two guys can go to the same store and get the same outfit and look totally different,' said Guy Wood, 62, the stylish co-owner of Harlem Haberdashery. Inspired by family members and dapper Harlem neighbors, he developed a knack for style early. 'It's confidence ... you walk in the room, and all the heads turn.' Michael Andrew, a 42-year-old Atlanta-based style consultant, first delved into dandyism after being inspired by Fonzworth Bentley, most recognized as Sean 'Diddy' Combs' often-photographed assistant and umbrella holder in the early 2000s. Bentley's colorful outfits and tailored outfits separated himself from the hip-hop era's prevalent baggy look. 'A lot of guys think that being a dandy is about being over the top,' said Andrew, who was photographed for Rose Callahan's 2013 book 'I Am Dandy: The Return of the Elegant Gentleman.' 'For me, dandyism is the highest form of taste with self-expression.' Tip 2: Opt for the statement pieces The foundation of dandyism rests upon tenets such as bold colors and fine tailoring, but there's no singular way to achieve the look. Each dandy creates their own unique style, often centered on specific elements. For Wood, who refers to crafting looks as making gumbo, it starts with suits. 'Wearing a suit, you just feel important,' said Wood, who often pairs them with brogue shoes of various bright colors. 'We love well-tailored.' James McFarland, an 80-year-old master tailor, says a dandy's affinity for tailoring is easy to understand: 'It's very simple: we're a visual world. When you wear something that's fine tailored and it's fitting you well, people look at that.' Known as 'Gentleman Jim,' McFarland was tutored by Orie Walls, the go-to Harlem-based tailor of the 1960s. McFarland says they crafted suits for nearly every famous Black male celebrity of the time, from Duke Ellington to Jackie Robinson to Muhammad Ali — as well as some of the era's most infamous characters, like gangsters Frank Lucas and Bumpy Johnson. He says wearing a suit 'makes you feel better. You ever heard the term styling and profiling?' While Adams, the historian, is drawn to bow ties, buck shoes and straw hats, Andrew says the beauty of dandyism is making it your own. 'Texture is the must-have when you start talking about dandyism — textures and patterns. The great point here is that dandies always have their thing. And so, for me, hats are my thing,' Andrew said, adding that small accessories, like stylish wool or cashmere socks and pocket squares, can easily elevate a look. 'Now, it's starting to become glasses. … Every dandy has the opportunity to utilize something.' Tip 3: Creativity is worth more than cash Wood says creativity is essential to becoming a dandy — not a high income. 'That's a cheat code,' said Wood. 'It is being creative … most of us don't have a lot of money. You might go in your mom's closet and (think), 'Oh, that scarf is fly.' You tie it around your neck and lay it over your shoulder. You just can't be scared.' Adams says while style and inspiration can go hand-in-hand, individuality should always be paramount. 'People should find their truth and aspire to look like themselves,' he said, noting he shops at a variety of stores, from the high-end Brooks Brothers to off-price and discount stores like Marshalls and K&G Fashion. 'Part of the thing that made me rebel against looking like 'Super Fly' or 'Shaft' is I didn't want to look like everybody else.' Jacques Agbobly, a designer whose clothes are featured in the Met exhibit, agrees. 'There are people who would really just think it's about the suit that you're wearing and the top hat … but for me, and I think that's what this exhibition does really fondly, is really putting together a group of amazing clothing that really redefines what dandyism is,' he said. For the Togo-born designer, 'taking up space is a sort of open-ended thing in a way,' whether it's achieved through colors, silhouettes or fabric choices. Tip 4: Avoid the crisis of casualness A general consensus among dandies is that society has embraced casualness, shunning the well-dressed looks of the past. McFarland, the tailor, says his profession isn't as admired or used in U.S. as it was years ago. He teaches fine tailoring as he has for decades, and is planning to start a podcast to discuss the craft and his adventures styling celebrities of his era. 'When I grew up, I wanted to look like the people in the neighborhood,' he said, explaining his mother couldn't afford the clothes he wanted, leading him to tailoring. 'Everybody, male and female, was dressed up.' Andrew hopes that same stylish spirit of yesteryear can make a resurgence, believing appearance and pride work together. 'I would challenge or would encourage all of us, especially as Black people, to remember our history, to remember that we used to throw on our Sunday's best,' he said. 'We wanted to show up as the best versions of ourselves.' The 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style' exhibit, which will run through October, is sure to introduce visitors to the most elevated forms of Black dandyism. But for Wood and fellow daily dandies, it's just business as usual. 'The fact that the Met realizes that is a beautiful thing,' he said with a sly smile. 'But we've been doing this forever and we really not paying attention to it. We just do it because we love it.' ___ Follow Associated Press entertainment journalist Gary Gerard Hamilton at @GaryGHamilton on all his social media platforms.
Forbes
30-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Forbes
What Is The Met Gala 2025 Theme? The History Of The Black Dandy
Michael Henry Adams, Abdou Ndoye, Craig Shimirimana, Von Penn Jr, Dandy Wellington, Grailing King, ... More Lamine Seck, Serigne Sene, and Iké Udé photographed by Tyler Mitchell (@tylersphotos), 'The Dinner Party,' 2025. Via Instagram @metmuseum. Every year on the first Monday in May, the Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York City hosts the Met Gala, officially known as the Costume Institute Benefit. This annual fundraising event supports the museum's Costume Institute, and in 2024 alone, it raised $26 million. Each year, each gala revolves around a theme, with past moments including 'Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty (2023)', 'The Garden of Time (2024),' and the widely acclaimed 'Notes on Camp (2019)'. On Wednesday, October 9, 2024, the Met revealed the theme for the Costume Institute's spring 2025 exhibition: 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style.' In anticipation, Anna Wintour, Editor-in-Chief of Vogue, Global Director of Condé Nast, and longtime Met Gala co-chair, shared that Vogue has been developing a parallel tribute. This project honors the exhibition's core themes of menswear, identity, history, and the diverse expressions of the Black dandy in fashion. Dandyism, itself, is a literary and refined yet artistic self-presentation. Mostly seen in men in the 18th century during the 1790s revolution periods, a "dandy" was specific about his grooming and attire, from his hair and skin to his tailored suit and the cane that complemented his distinctive walk. This year's theme was inspired by Monica L. Miller's novel 'Slaves to Fashion: Black Dandyism and the Styling of Black Diasporic Identity. ' The book notes that "Black Dandyism" was adopted by enslaved Africans during the Atlantic Slave Trade, drawing on the refined aesthetics of the 18th-century European man. Enslaved people, purchased as "luxury property" yet denied the lens of being seen as luxurious, redefined the concept through intellectualism, rebellion, and the graceful assimilation of their diverse identities from the earliest days of their mixed heritage. For wealthy Europeans, owning or employing a well-dressed Black servant was considered a status symbol, a living spectacle of wealth and power. Even dressing up said enslaved servant to sit for a portrait, because one could afford to do so, signaled wealth and sophistication. While modern portrayals of enslaved people in film and television often show them in tattered clothing, servant uniforms, or no clothing at all, Monica L. Miller reminds us that, 'The spiritual has always had a sartorial dimension for Black people in America, as many slaves were allowed to dress in their finest clothes but once a week, on Sunday.' FEATURED | Frase ByForbes™ Unscramble The Anagram To Reveal The Phrase Pinpoint By Linkedin Guess The Category Queens By Linkedin Crown Each Region Crossclimb By Linkedin Unlock A Trivia Ladder In the Met Museum, onlookers can picture this, 'Bélizaire and the Frey Children, ca. 1837' in which Belizaire, an enslaved Afro-Creole teenager poses in a portrait, wearing a tailored beige carrick coat, billowy blouse, and cravat next to his enslavers. More notably, 'Portrait of a Youth in an Embroidered Vest' (1785) by French painter Marie-Victoire Lemoine can be seen in the Cummer Museum of Art & Gardens, dressed in a stunning silver collarless justacorps and embroidered waistcoat, his hair, cut at the correct length to produce a shape moderately in style for the 1780s. Miller attests to her own reference image, " an eighteenth-century oil painting of an unnamed black boy dressed in a bright red jacket, gold collar, and padlock about his neck." (French, 1754–1820). Portrait of a Youth in an Embroidered Vest, 1785. Oil on canvas; 65.1 x 54.6cm ... More (25 ⅝ x 21 ½ in). Jacksonville, FL: While enslaved Africans were stripped of their native languages, customs, families, records, and identities, there was a reckoning: a quiet negotiation or unspoken compromise that began to reshape how identity and physical self-expression could survive under enslavement. In 'Virginia in 1732: The Travel Journal of William Hugh Grove,' the traveler tells his interactions with enslaved African boys, noting how identity was still being venerated through style: 'Some had beads about their necks, arms, and waists, and a rag or piece of leather the bigness of a fig leaf.' Though not considered proper clothing, these accessories held the power of memory. Grove continues, mentioning that these adornments came 'from a place of autonomy, as the only material retention from former lives in Africa.' Attributed to Jacques Guillame Lucein Amans, 'Bélizaire and the Frey Children,' c. 1837, Oil on ... More canvas, 54.5 x 43.5 inches, Private Collection This instance of using heretical emblems or culturally inscriptive materials—often subtle or hidden—has long served as a quiet rebellion against the erasure of Black memory. This strategy of resistance continues to shape Black fashion today. Assimilation, whether forced or chosen, was never fully achieved in the eyes of colonizers or slaveholders, because there was always a trace of African heritage or, in more recent times, urban cultural identity, woven in to subvert and complicate the idea of complete assimilation. Meaning, that European standards of living or dressing were never truly embraced or replicated but rather adopted and manipulated. Indeterminacy meets at the intersection of sexuality, race, politics, and economic structure that is Black Dandyism, marking its inherently performative nature. This performance was expressed not only through its 'made-you-look' charm but also in the speech patterns and tonal nuances of formerly enslaved people following the Emancipation Proclamation. Their flamboyance was a public assertion of freedom, particularly in the north of the United States, where many migrated to reinvent and present themselves following freedom. It was not just about identity, but about presenting choice; a declaration of visibility, dignity, and a self-defined presence in a world that had once denied them of it. circa 1890: A young man wearing a formal suit and top hat. (Photo by) Once settling in the north, the performance power of the blues and jazz took off, many Black performers dressed up dapper and clean. In the early 1900s, Black performers often encountered dress code restrictions and had to acclimate their garments to fit the demands of their audiences, particularly in minstrel shows and vaudeville performances. While white performers centered modesty for their performance outfits, mostly wearing three-piece suits with high-collared white shirts, neckties, and derby or bowler hats, Black performers wore exaggerated costumes, including elaborate hats, vests, and worked brighter colors, patterns, and textures into their attire. They often paired them with pocket watches, canes, and monocles, which was supposed to signal sophistication at that time. Once the Harlem Renaissance was birthed in the 1920s, Black Dandyism was fully realized, and so was the idea of the "Black intellectual." In the 1920s, "Harlem became the epicenter of Black intellectual and artistic thought. Figures like Langston Hughes, Josephine Baker, and Zora Neale Hurston were breaking barriers with their literary and artistic contributions," writes Ty Gaskins in Vogue. And that literary recognition also translated over to style, fully conceptualizing what it meant to dress and appear as a Black intellectual. This meant ridding of this idea of the "Old Negro" made to be a myth and less than a memory. Jazz Musician Duke Ellington Carrying Horns and Drum In the 'New Negro (1925)' by Harlem philosopher Alain Locke, he writes "In the mind of America, the Negro has been more of a formula than a human being, something to be argued about, condemned or defended, to be "kept down," or "in his place," or "helped up," to be worried with or worried over, harassed or patronized, a social bogey or a social burden." In this metamorphosis, he introduces this concept of the "new negro" a phrase used heavily throughout the Harlem Renaissance, "The Negro playwright, musician, actor, dancer, and artist in concert shall fashion a drama that will merit the respect and admiration of America,' he writes. 'Such an institution must come from the Negro himself, as he alone can truly express the soul of his people.'He continues, 'The race must surrender that childish self-consciousness that refuses to face the facts of its own life in the arts, but prefers the blandishments of flatterers, who render all efforts at true artistic expression a laughing-stock by adorning their characters with the gaudy gowns of cheap romance.' On style, Alain Locke argues that the 'New Negro' should strive to align their intellectual power with a modern identity: 'It has been their achievement also to bring the artistic advance of the Negro sharply into stepping alignment with contemporary artistic thought, mood, and style. They are thoroughly modern, some of them ultra-modern, and Negro thoughts now wear the uniform of the age.' This vision comes to life in the image of not only in the theoretical but in the physical with the sharp suit, polished shoes, glasses, and bow ties—worn by intellectuals of the era, including the iconic queer writer James Baldwin. A Harlemite and a student of the world, Baldwin's style was shaped by both his travels across Europe and his upbringing in the ghettos of New York. It's corduroy coats with shearling trim, fur hats, and terrycloth polos. It's a patterned scarf worn in place of a tie—romantic, feminine, and très cool. Baldwin was fluent in the language of bourgeois respectability and dressed the part when the occasion called for it. Yet, as a sharp critic of white supremacy and middle-class conventions, he also knew how to bend the rules of dressing—subtly reshaping his look to reflect a style that was unmistakably his own. American novelist and activist James Baldwin (1924 – 1987, left) with friends, USA, October 1963. ... More (Photo by Mario Jorrin/Pix/Michael) This mix of high tailoring, symbolizing the sharp edge of intellect, with the funk, flair, and rich history of Black style has been well documented. It can be seen in unexpected places, such as the 1970s to 1990s era of New York's iconic pimps, who moved through both street and business worlds in expertly tailored suits. These looks were often personalized with elements of urban flair: scarves, patterned hats, oversized ties, or medallions. It's been seen in acts like OutKast, who would show up to red carpet events in colorful, patterned tailored suits—accessorized with classic hip-hop staples like chains, newsboy hats, and sneakers. It's also evident in everyday performers, including Met Gala host Janelle Monáe, who first introduced her public persona in a tailored suit. Monáe says, 'I consider myself a free-ass motherfucker. And when I'm in my suit, that is exactly how I feel.' She continues, 'I feel like I am showing you a new way to think about clothing and to think about values and to think about what you stand for, what you don't stand for, and the kind of person you want to represent as you walk this earth.' Andre 3000 and Big Boi of OutKast during 44th GRAMMY Awards - Arrivals at Staples Center in Los ... More Angeles, California, United States. (Photo by Gregg DeGuire/WireImage) Dapper Dan, widely recognized as a modern Black dandy, rose to prominence by elevating 1980-90s Black culture through his excessive use of logos and luxury labels, which he printed onto suits, trunks, and outerwear. He redefined refined style, balancing sophistication with an undeniable sense of cool, creating a fusion that resonated deeply with the Black community. "The way I came into dandyism is through this process of transformation. I'm from the poorest neighborhood in Harlem, right by the banks of the Harlem River. Everybody in my little enclave was all poor," he said. 'We had rats and roaches. Goodwill was our Macy's. Whenever I was lucky and fortunate enough to have something to wear, I went to 125th Street. Nobody went there who wasn't dressed. At 125th Street, nobody knew I had rats, nobody knew I had roaches, and that for me was the birth of dandyism because I saw the power of transformation that could take place with your clothes.'
