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Straits Times
10-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Straits Times
Food Picks: Contemporary Asian flavours at one-Michelin-starred Willow
Sign up now: Get ST's newsletters delivered to your inbox SINGAPORE – Willow executive chef Nicolas Tam, one of those self-styled straight-talker types, has no time for fine dining's typical frills, despite his restaurant's one Michelin star. So, do not expect ironed tablecloths or lavish courtesy here. As the contemporary Asian restaurant sways into a new season, it turns its attention from Japan to the rest of the continent. The gastronomic essence of other cultures, such as the Chinese and the Peranakans, comes to bear here in a menu that is constantly updated to keep pace with seasonal specialities and supply chain fluctuations. The $228++ dinner menu starts off with the familiar: a soothing and herbal black chicken consomme made with the Silkie breed of poultry prized for its gamier taste. Following a quick detour through the restaurant's traditional stomping ground of Japanese cuisine – a trio of snacks with uni and chutoro – chef Tam's French background delivers a cloud-like Pain Au Lait, to be dipped in a sweet-savoury miso sabayon that cradles in its centre a confit egg yolk. A zesty appetiser of zucchini, green apple and caviar cleanses the palate before the mains, generously portioned and boldly spiced, make landfall. One of the highlights is the toothfish with sauerkraut – an elegant nod to the suan cai yu (fish with pickled mustard greens) that has become so ubiquitous in Singapore. Willow's version is creamier and less puckering, the succulent fish dusted with rattan pepper for a light citrus zing. Also inspired by a local favourite is the Iberico pork with buah keluak sambal. The condiment's caramelised nuttiness, traced every so slightly with a bitter hint, complements the richness of the pork. Miyazaki A5 wagyu at Willow. ST PHOTO: CHERIE LOK Diners can upgrade this dish to a plate of Miyazaki A5 wagyu, grilled over binchotan and crowned with a nugget of foie gras. It is the kind of melt-in-your mouth luxuriance expected of a restaurant of this calibre and, in some ways, exemplifies Willow's ethos – maximum quality, minimal fuss. A final rice course rounds off the savoury act, before two desserts and a trio of sweets tuck you gently into a blissful food coma.
Time Out
13-06-2025
- Time Out
The best Japanese restaurants in Singapore
What is it? A tempura omakase spot in The St. Regis Singapore that's all about crisp, golden perfection – done the old-school way, and all the better for it. Why we love it: Tentsuru takes one of Japan's most beloved comfort foods and turns it into an art form. Here, tempura isn't just fried food – it's treated with the kind of reverence usually reserved for sushi or wagyu. This isn't your quick-hit prawn and kakiage combo, since each piece is battered and fried a la minute. Seasonal ingredients like sweet Hokkaido scallops, kuruma ebi (tiger prawn), and nodoguro (blackthroat seaperch) are coated in a whisper-thin batter, so delicately crisp that it practically melts. Some of the more premium pieces include Miyazaki A5 wagyu, uni, and abalone. But even the humble sweet potato shines here, with a caramelised edge that makes it dangerously addictive. The restaurant is low-key and intimate, with a counter-style setup where you can watch the chef work their magic. It's all about the food – no frills, just perfectly crisp tempura. Time Out tip: Not everything's on the printed menu: chat with the chef about what seasonal ingredients are in that day. You might just score an extra plump prawns or sweet baby corn.
