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Ibiza: In search of sun and simplicity in a dance-music destination
Ibiza: In search of sun and simplicity in a dance-music destination

Irish Examiner

timea day ago

  • Entertainment
  • Irish Examiner

Ibiza: In search of sun and simplicity in a dance-music destination

A deep and distant thud, thud, thud drowns out the delicate washing of the sea against the shore. The glowing evening sun feels close as super yachts and boatloads of stag parties sail across the horizon like a noisy eclipse. I've been in Ibiza for a few days, yet it's only now, on my last night here, that I'm seeing its infamous party side in San Antonio for the first time. I'm woefully underdressed and sporting too much of a farmer's tan to be mistaken for a clubber or influencer, but I'm quite happy to be the odd one out. I came here to slow down and recharge in the mythical, quieter parts of Ibiza that are rumoured to exist. Depending on who you ask, you'll get different answers as to what Ibiza is like. It's a small island, smaller in fact than Co Louth, that can be crossed in an hour by car, but it has very clearly defined regions and personalities. The glam of recent decades has covered up Ibiza's arrival onto the tourist scene, when it was known as a haven for American hippies who were dodging the Vietnam War draft. Then came the clubbing era, thanks to famous nightclubs like Ocean and Pacha in Playa d'en Bossa in the South, while Freddie Mercury had his legendary 41st birthday in Pikes, near San Antonio, in the West. Ibiza Town is the largest urban area on the island, with roughly 50,000 inhabitants. It lies by the water on the east of the island, sandwiched between the marina and fortified, hillside structures of Old Town. Walking through the streets of Ibiza Town, I'm swarmed by groups of young people running in and out of the high street shops, picking up new outfits for their night out, but as I explore, I see the sandy stone of Old Town rise above me. Snaking laneways of shiny and slippery stones draw me up the inclines to tranquil courtyards lined with idyllic homes with views across the harbour. Enjoying a drink in Ibiza's Old Town Old Town is the historic heart of Ibiza. At its summit is Ibiza Castle, a fortified structure that has taken on many forms over the centuries and seen invasions by the Phoenicians, Romans, Moors, Christians, and pirates. Wandering around the fortress, I can only imagine how difficult it was to breach these stout walls. Amongst all the history are glimpses of modern Ibiza. The Museum of Contemporary Art lies within the walls and celebrates the island's artistic past that bloomed in the 1960s with the arrival of the hippies — this museum, like all others on the island, is free to visitors. A warm glow fills the evening air and I follow the sound of chat and laughter to the lower parts of Old Town, where I find a seat on a terrace overlooking the water below. I've certainly slowed down since my first day here and as I sip on my glass of vermouth as the sun sets, I can feel myself unwinding. I find active holidays relaxing. I'm not one for sitting on the beach, I get restless, as if the day is being wasted, but once I've done something active, the chemicals in my brain balance out and I can relax. With that in mind, I decide to rent a bike and explore the coastal trails and gravel roads. I turn from the paved paths on the west coast of Ibiza and onto a dry gravel road that kicks up dust with every spin of the wheels. Sunset along the coast of Ibiza It's not long until I've left the sea behind and find myself in complete silence, surrounded by nothing but pine trees and the odd fig and olive tree. Areas along the coast in Ibiza are densely populated with high-rise buildings and hotels, but out here, people live dispersed in whitewashed buildings scattered across the foothills of the central mountains. Life feels like it moves slowly here, with days of endless sunshine allowing people to grow food in their gardens, relax in their hammocks, and read on their terraces. Despite the late spring heat, coastal breezes keep me comfortable as I pedal up the hilly landscape and bomb back down on empty gravel roads. SIMPLE CAN BE PERFECT Jacarandas in bloom in Santa Gertrudis MY ACTIVE itch has been scratched and now it's time to eat. Wanting to see more of the island, I make my way to Santa Gertrudis in the centre of the island — I've heard there's a place here that does the best Iberico jamon. The village is idyllic — a whitewashed church stands at one end of a cobbled street that's lined with jacarandas in full purple bloom and buzzing with people eating outdoors. There's a small queue outside Bar Costa, mainly of Spanish people from what I can tell, which is always a good sign. I'm ushered in, stoop below the legs of ham hanging from the ceiling, and step through the rear dining room that's a song of noise from families eating and drinking. Ordering the Iberico ham and a glass of wine, it dawns on me how straightforward Spanish food is; there are no marketing buzzwords or TikTok-trending dishes on the menu, just simple food, done well. As the ham melts in my mouth, I'm convinced that not only can simple be better, but simple can be perfect. As a new day begins, so does a new activity: this time I'm swapping the land for the sea on a kayaking trip along the coast from Es Figueral beach with Kayak Ibiza. The sea is surprisingly cold here, nowhere near as cold as Ireland, but enough to feel odd given the sun-drenched, parched landscapes around me. 'You know Ibiza has a party reputation, right?' Alex, my guide, asks rhetorically as we paddle out into the sea. 'This area that we're in was a busy smuggling route years ago.' He points to a rock face 100m away where there is an oddly-coloured patch in the rock, marking the entrance to a tunnel that smugglers used in the past. Thankfully, the waters here are more welcoming these days. Under the shimmering azure are meadows of Neptune's grass, a native seaweed that waves up to the surface and is home to a variety of sea life. 'Look below you, can you see it?' Alex's question isn't rhetorical this time. 'There's a ray right there!' I make out the shovel-shaped creature and watch as it billows and glides through the water. Back on dry land, it's time to eat, but I've had such a good day by the water, I decide to eat my dinner by the coast. Jamon iberico at S'illa des Bosc, Ibiza S'illa des Bosc requires a little bit of effort to get to as it's not in a town, but its location on top of a small cliff by the water makes it ideal for a sunset dinner. Dining al fresco is such a treat and I order the tuna tataki, which is gently seasoned and seared, leaving the centre raw yet roaring with flavour. Though it's a Japanese dish, it suits Spanish life well, elevating quality produce with minimal fuss or fanfare. Long after dark, the bill arrives with some 'hierbas ibicencas', an Ibizan version of limoncello made with local herbs. It's a sharp yet sweet palate cleanser and a great way to round off a day by the sea. It's the final morning of my trip and I can't get last night's aperitif out of my mind. Looking for somewhere to buy a bottle before my flight, I find Can Muson, a farm with a cafe where you can make your own hierbas ibicencas. I'm sold. Stepping through the gates, the farm unfurls like a verdant paradise. Sheep grazing in the Ibizan countryside Goats and sheep play in the fields, trees are heavy with fruit, and the outdoor tables are laden with colourful foods and drinks — I couldn't be further, mentally or physically, from the island's nightclub scene here. Hierbas ibicencas is made by putting whatever herbs are at hand into a glass bottle before adding some fruit and topping up with aniseed liqueur. Given the loose recipe, there's no set way to make the drink; mine contains orange leaf, lavender, thyme, and a bunch of other fragrant herbs. Putting the cork in the bottle and giving it a good smack shut, I know this is one souvenir that I'm keeping for myself. Ibiza wasn't at the top of my list when I was looking for a restful break away, but something drew me here and made me look beyond what the island is best known for and rewarded me with exactly what I needed. Cian was a guest of Ibiza Tourism Board and the Spanish Tourism Office. Escape Notes Ryanair operates a daily direct flight from Dublin to Ibiza with a flight time of 2 hours and 50 minutes. Be warned, you may be on a flight with people who have already started the party! Stay at the stylish and peaceful Hyde Hotel in Cala Llonga from €230/night and get direct access to the beach. This hotel is in a quiet area with restaurants and bars within walking distance, but you may need a car to get around as a taxi into Ibiza Town costs €30. Plan your own restful trip to Ibiza by visiting the Ibiza Tourism website

Notorious serial killer turns 72 today with birthday wish unfulfilled
Notorious serial killer turns 72 today with birthday wish unfulfilled

Daily Mirror

time3 days ago

  • Daily Mirror

Notorious serial killer turns 72 today with birthday wish unfulfilled

Robert Maudsley, the quadruple killer dubbed 'Hannibal the Cannibal', turns 72 today amid growing concerns about his health and in dispute with prison authorities Britain's longest serving prisoner is spending his most miserable birthday behind bars today - the 51st consecutive one alone in his cell. Robert Maudsley, the quadruple killer dubbed 'Hannibal the Cannibal', turned 72 amid growing concerns about his health following a hunger strike. It is his 51st consecutive birthday in prison. But it is his first in Whitemoor, Cambridgeshire after decades in Wakefield jail. He asked to move back to the glass cage where he was held in the jail dubbed 'Monster Mansion'. ‌ Maudsley has spent almost 47 years in a single cell. It now equates to more than 17,000 consecutive days in solitary confinement. His request to return to Wakefield has so far been denied, and it is difficult for his family to visit from his native Merseyside. He has told girlfriend, Londoner Loveinia MacKenney, 69, not to visit, though she sent him a card with £300 in cash for a present. ‌ Once identified as the most dangerous inmate in the country, Maudsley was moved from his perspex box in Wakefield jail after a row over his privileges, and went on hunger strike earlier this year. He was moved to Whitemoor on April 8. In recent correspondence with Loveinia, he outlined why he went on hunger strike earlier this year. He told how his Playstation and some of his 'perks' were taken away. He told her: "Sometimes Loveinia we do have to fight for what is right and we believe in." Said to have a high IQ, Maudsley had enjoyed reading and listening to classical music in Wakefield, where his previous crimes led to him being nicknamed 'Hannibal the Cannibal'. But his TV and radio were removed in the row with prison staff. Maudsley became the UK's longest serving prisoner after the death of Moors murderer Ian Brady, who served 51 years, in 2017. ‌ He was first locked up for manslaughter when he was 21 in 1974. On July 28, 1978, already serving life, Maudsley killed two fellow prisoners in Wakefield jail. He was said to have told a prison guard: 'There'll be two short on the roll call.' He had already killed a fellow patient in Broadmoor secure hospital, in 1974. The victim there was found with a plastic spoon blade in his ear. ‌ That led to Maudsley's nicknames, first 'Spoons', then Hannibal the Cannibal, amid claims that he had eaten his brain. Post mortem examination made clear that was not the case. But the nickname stuck. Special provision was made for him inside Wakefield. His 'glass cage' was compared to one used to house the fictional character Dr Hannibal Lecter, played by Anthony Hopkins. He was on screen for a matter of. minutes, but it won him an Oscar for the 1991 film 'Silence of the Lambs'. The Prison Service declined to comment on individual prisoners. In the past, they have stressed that no prisoners are kept in solitary confinement in the UK penal system.

I found cave homes with a Star Wars vibe on my travels
I found cave homes with a Star Wars vibe on my travels

The Herald Scotland

time4 days ago

  • The Herald Scotland

I found cave homes with a Star Wars vibe on my travels

I could spend my life gazing at the wonders in this treasure house: the wild works of Hieronymous Bosch, Bruegel the Elder, Goya and El Greco. But Andalusia was calling. We were adventuring with Rabbie's Tours - the gem of Scotland's travel industry. Rabbie's sets you up with a personal driver and guide. Read More: It's a unique experience, providing all the coolness and off-the-beaten-track surprise of independent travel, whilst making sure that you don't do any of the hard work. Our guide Violetta was like a charming Google, a personal storyteller dispensing info about local history or where to get the best lunch. Our driver Paolo made sure we were always where we needed to be without even having to think about it. By the end of a Rabbie's tour, your driver and guide feel like old friends and you'll be sad to say goodbye. This Andalusian adventure focused on food, culture and history, taking us from Roman ruins to Moorish monuments via the windmills of Don Quixote and bars and restaurants serving some of the best produce and wine you'll find in Spain. We began by travelling to the magnificent medieval city of Toledo. Set on a stunning hilltop, Toledo commands majestic views of the Tajo River. In the distance, the snow-capped mountains of the Sierra Nevada sparkle. One of the great joys of this holiday was staying in Cordoba, full of winding back streets amid whitewashed houses with pretty painted doors. It's home to La Mezquita, a grand and stately mosque, built when Spain was ruled by the Moors. In Andalusia the past constantly crashes up against the present, as Moorish and Christian influences weave together in architecture, music and cuisine. Andalusia (Image: Getty Images/iStockphoto) From Cordoba you can venture to the mountain fortress of La Mota, like a set from the movie El Cid. It was commanded by Christian forces during the long series of religious wars with Muslim Arabs, known as the Reconquista or the Reconquest. On your travels through Andalusia, make sure to visit the windmills of La Mancha, where Cervantes wrote of Don Quixote battling against modernity. The windmills sit on vertiginous hills overlooking the sprawling Spanish plain, stretching to horizon's end. Granada was the pearl of this tour. We stayed in a stunning hotel, right beside the famed Alhambra Palace. It was like living in a scene lifted from the pages of the Arabian Nights. Read More: It's a place of romance. At night, my wife and I sat on our balcony carved into the mountainside, surrounded by pines as the moon shone through the leaves. Make sure to take a whole day for the Alhambra. You won't be disappointed. It's a Xanadu. In Granada check out Telefonica, near the city's main square, for hip new twists on classic Andalusian food. From Granada we explored the strange little town of Guadix, comprised of caves, dug into the hills, and still inhabited. I spent a curious morning in the home of one elderly resident who saw me marvelling at his cave and invited me inside. The cave homes - which date back to Roman times but have a very Star Wars vibe - maintain a constant cool temperature in summer or winter. Next we ventured to the mountaintop town of Ronda, a place beloved by the likes of Orson Welles and Ernest Hemingway. You can see its appeal to Hemingway. At the heart of the town, sits an iconic bullring. I had some of the best food of my holiday here and will be back. I could spend a week in this gorgeous, romantic and historic little town. On our way to Seville, we took a detour to Almazara olive oil farm built by the designer Philippe Starck. The factory is shaped like a Picasso bull. It's an extraordinary place where olive oil is treated with the same reverence as the finest bottle of champagne. I brought a few litres back and it's damn good. Our hotel in Seville overlooked the city's Parliament in the funky Macarena district. This city throbs with life, and the highlight for me was a visit to an authentic back-street flamenco bar. It wasn't some phoney tourist spot, but where folk from Seville go for a night time fix of sexy, sweaty, visceral music and dance. After two nights in Madrid and six spent travelling Andalusia, our adventure was to end in Portugal. We crossed the border and travelled to Tavira on the Algarve. With ceramics so integral to Portuguese culture, you can pick up some gorgeous bargains here. Then it was on to Lisbon, our final destination. I love this gutsy and very real city. It's earthy and honest and as friendly as Glasgow at its best. In Lisbon, please do not leave without trying the food at a little restaurant called Sto. This place has turned food into story-telling. Your Portuguese tasting menu is like an historic and cultural tour of the country. The sardines were stunning. The Vinho Verde the best I've ever drank, and the service impeccable. Like many folk, I've been to Spain a lot, though always as an independent traveller and usually to the big cities like Barcelona, Valencia and Madrid. Andalusia (Image: PA) I thought I knew Spain. I didn't. This tour took me into the real heart of Spain. I met real people in real towns where tourists seldom tread and fell in love with places I'd never heard of but will return to often. My only concern is that I'm becoming somewhat addicted to Rabbie's tours. I want adventure and experience, and I don't want to be near those crowds of tourists all doing the same thing with an iPhone stuck to their face. But here's a confession: I'm now of an age where organising and executing that kind of holiday simply takes too much time. So I just let my mates at Rabbie's do all that for me, while I sit back in the lap of luxury and do what's good for the soul: make wonderful new memories that will last me a lifetime. Neil travelled with Rabbie's Tours. For more information and details of prices go to

Brazil's Cavalhadas festival celebrates Holy Spirit
Brazil's Cavalhadas festival celebrates Holy Spirit

Nahar Net

time10-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Nahar Net

Brazil's Cavalhadas festival celebrates Holy Spirit

by Naharnet Newsdesk 6 hours The heartland Brazilian city of Pirenópolis is hosting its annual Cavalhadas festival, a Holy Spirit celebration where participants ride horses, wear masks and don floral headpieces. The tradition began in the 1800s with a Portuguese priest who wanted to celebrate the Holy Spirit — one of the entities of the Roman Catholic Church's trinity — and also commemorate the victory of Iberian Christian knights over the Moors. The festivities include an open-air reenactment of a battle between Christian warriors and Muslims. At the end, the defeated Moors are converted to Catholicism.

Brazil's Cavalhadas festival celebrates Holy Spirit
Brazil's Cavalhadas festival celebrates Holy Spirit

Nahar Net

time10-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Nahar Net

Brazil's Cavalhadas festival celebrates Holy Spirit

by Naharnet Newsdesk 10 June 2025, 15:03 The heartland Brazilian city of Pirenópolis is hosting its annual Cavalhadas festival, a Holy Spirit celebration where participants ride horses, wear masks and don floral headpieces. The tradition began in the 1800s with a Portuguese priest who wanted to celebrate the Holy Spirit — one of the entities of the Roman Catholic Church's trinity — and also commemorate the victory of Iberian Christian knights over the Moors. The festivities include an open-air reenactment of a battle between Christian warriors and Muslims. At the end, the defeated Moors are converted to Catholicism.

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