5 days ago
Il Sereno review: a uniquely modern hotel on the banks of Lake Como
When it opened in 2016 in the small town of Torno, this thoroughly modern hotel ruffled the feathers of Como's grande-dame properties with its unashamedly sharp-edged aesthetic, crafted by celebrated designer Patricia Urquiola. The 40 lake-view suites are pared back with panache, the food is Michelin-starred and the spa is in a converted boathouse full of character. You really are on the lake here — its gently lapping water is only inches away as you swim in the photogenic outdoor pool, and there's even a tiny natural beach beneath the terrace. For extra wow factor, the hotel has Riva boats for stylish outings.
This article contains affiliate links that will earn us revenue
Score 9/10Urquiola is one of her generation's pre-eminent designers. Her work is displayed in the permanent collection of MoMa in New York and the Fonds National d'Art Contemporain in Paris. As she is based in Milan, about an hour's drive away, Il Sereno feels like her weekend residence — and the attention to detail reflects that. The use of local book-matched marble is stunning, accessorised by Venetian terrazzo floors and walnut fixtures that add depth and warmth. For glamour, she's added watery blue, bronze and tangerine tones to the day beds from B&B Italia, husk armchairs by Moroso, custom lighting by Flos and covetable hand-knotted Warli rugs by Paolo Zani. Bathrooms are calming cocoons, many with deep tubs as well as rainforest showers. All are stocked with pampering black amber amenities by the A-list-approved Ex Voto Paris. There are also generous touches such as a complimentary panettone and minibars. In short, the rooms are so classy that you barely notice the dreamy views over the lake through the walls of windows.
Score 9/10 The Naples-born executive chef Raffaele Lenzi was running his own pastry shop at 14 and went on to work in world-class kitchens such as the then two-Michelin-starred Arquade at the Hotel Villa del Quar in Verona. He has been presiding over Ristorante Il Sereno Al Lago since 2016 and everything about this dining experience is theatrical. You approach via an extraordinary 'floating' sculptural staircase with walnut treads lashed together by copper-coloured metal rods, and sit beneath the building's ancient stone arches, the lake almost within touching distance.
Like the design, dinner takes its culinary cues from the past but adds a 21st-century dynamism. Tasting menus showcase Lombardian produce and you should expect the unexpected. Apologies for spoiling the surprises, but this might include a moreish hummus of fermented borlotti beans, perfectly cooked cauliflower with carbonara sauce, delicately piquant rainbow trout with sweet-and-sour melon and horseradish, and unforgettable veal osso buco. Breakfast embraces healthy granolas and fruit but can't resist Italian sugar hits of custard-filled doughnuts and panettone.
• More of the best hotels in Lake Como• Best villas in Lake Como
Score 9/10The sleek 18m infinity pool runs lengthwise to the lake and is fitted with underwater music and mood lighting. It has a smart sun deck lined with pea-green loungers. To its side is a mini sandy beach with direct access into the lake should you prefer to swim there. There are also paddleboards, kayaks and a rowing boat to take onto the water. The small spa is in a characterful old boat house and somehow squeezes in a hot tub, sauna, steam room, fitness centre and three treatment rooms where excellent therapists work their magic with products from the Swiss luxury skincare brand Valmont. The hotel also has its own private dock, three self-drive Riva boats and a Urquiola-designed Vaporina del Lago water limousine for aquatic explorations in style.
Score 8/10Torno is on your doorstep and is a pretty little town with atmospheric cafés, quaint churches and precious few tourists. If you hanker after hordes of holidaymakers, fashionable Como town is about a 15-minute drive away, where you'll find designer stores and fancy restaurants. Torno has a pier and ferry services and is about a ten-minute walk from the hotel for trips further afield.
Price B&B doubles from £765Restaurant three course menus from £112Family-friendly YAccessible Y
Susan d'Arcy was a guest of Il Sereno (
• Lake Como v Lake Garda: which one should you visit?• Best villas in Lake Garda
