Latest news with #MrJacobs

New York Times

Dolls vs. Real Girls at Marc Jacobs

As is his custom, Mr. Jacobs ran a tight ship for his runway show Monday evening at the New York Public Library. Doors closed, guests settled in hushed expectation, and at 7:30 sharp the first model emerged in a lavender lace top with protrusive sleeves that fanned out around her like the petals of an Imperial poppy. Over the course of five minutes, another 18 looks followed, each more elaborate than the next. Mr. Jacobs titled the show 'Beauty' and, as always, offered only the barest-boned notes. One gets the sense that, like an artist, Mr. Jacobs is as interested in what the audience sees in his work as anything he may have intended. He provides the dream, we are left to do the interpretation. For several seasons now, Mr. Jacobs has been toying with proportions, often distorting historical fashion designs past the point of recognition. The two-dimensionality he explored in his fall 2024 collection, where models looked almost like paper dolls wearing flat dresses that hung from their frames, has now swollen into a bricolage of shapes and textures. The dolls had bulged into unruly, decidedly three-dimensional women. Take Look 3, an astonishing top made to resemble a bra with cleavage and a fleshy stomach spilling out. The sumptuous, built-in muffin top and fake-abundant bosom worn by a waif seemed to spit in the eye of Ozempic culture — like a black mirror version of the corset couture most recently canonized at the Sánchez-Bezos wedding. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.