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Otago Daily Times

Time allows winemakers to further hone their craft

Rockburn winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis. Photo: supplied In my view, one of the strengths of the Central Otago wine scene has been the longevity of involvement of so many of its winemakers. Time has allowed them to hone their craft as they seek incremental improvements through a deeper understanding of the fruit that Central Otago produces, while also nurturing the bounty of ever-increasing vine age. A quick head count of winemakers that have completed 20 vintages easily surpassed double figures and I'm certain there are others who are either on the cusp or have already surpassed that mark. A small handful have gone past 25 vintages, while the redoubtable Alan Brady's involvement just goes on and on. The arrival of a group of wines from Rockburn recently reminded me that the 2025 vintage saw their winemaker Malcolm Rees-Francis join that merry band in the 20+ club. Congratulations Malcolm on the achievement. New wine bars in Dunedin Having had Piccolo wine bar open in St Clair recently, a heads-up for wine enthusiasts that a new wine bar opened its doors over Matariki weekend. "The Cellar" is situated at 4 Hanover St and is opening Thursdays to Sundays from afternoon till late. Run by Colin and Jackie, this is a welcome addition to the Dunedin wine scene. Science festival wine events I spotted this late in the piece but the NZ International Science Festival (NZISF) has events for grown-ups too this week. Two that caught my eye are Sonic Sommellerie: A Multisensory Wine Odyssey — "a journey through the senses with Dr Jo Burzynska, discovering how different sounds and environments can change the taste of wine". Also: Getting the Measure of Alcohol — "what is alcohol and how and why do we measure it?" Held at Vault 21 and Dunedin Craft Distillers respectively, you'll find all the details on the NZISF website. Decanter World Wine Awards Results are just out and Central Otago secured gold medals for the 2024 McArthur Ridge Falls Dam Pinot Gris, the 2022 Te Kano Northburn Pinot Noir and the NV Mumm Blanc de Noirs. The 2023 McArthur Ridge Southern Tor Pinot Noir secured a Platinum award but is now sold out domestically. The NZ Best in Show Pinot Noir Award went to the 2024 Craggy Range Martinborough Pinot Noir. 2023 Rockburn Central Otago Pinot Noir RRP $49 Price Rating Excellent Sweetly perfumed, contrasted by a dusty/lead pencil quality, savoury notes join the mix, flecks of herb, a leafy/snow-pea-like aspect. Ripe, generous, fills the mouth, has central Otago classicism writ large on it. Bright acidity gives freshness, now dark cherry. There's crowd pleasing sheer drinkability yet complexity and depth for added interest. 2023 Rockburn Seven Barrels Dick Bunton Vineyard Gibbston Pinot Noir RRP $99 Price Rating Outstanding A sense of elegance and refinement, swelling in the glass. Cherry, cranberry, a gently savoury undercurrent backed by schist aspects. Lovely tension, not at all showy, but built on elegance and structure. A sense of ethereality, a lighter frame but far from underpowered, you have to come to this but it rewards you. The nose really grows with air, wonderful precision and linearity. 2023 Rockburn Eleven Barrels Parkburn Vineyard Gibbston Pinot Noir RRP $99 Price Rating Excellent to Outstanding Herbal influences, flashes of mint and eucalypt appear for a moment, subtlety, refinement, perfume grows, sweet fruit, toast/pencil shavings, biscuity aspects. Flavour depth clear to see, ripe yet dry, oak seasoning, it becomes clearer that this is a bigger boy than first thought, the tannins show their mettle, richly fruited, earthy humus, dusty characters, the power evident now.