Latest news with #NizamofHyderabad
Indian Express
19-07-2025
- General
- Indian Express
From Khichdi-Khatta to Patthar ka Gosht, what Hyderabadi cuisine tells us about the city's multicultural past
Written by Shreya Saksena The year is 1725. It is a cool November morning in Hyderabad, a city founded by Mohammed Quli Qutb Shah. Bustling bylanes converge around Charminar, its tall minarets whispering stories of the Shah's triumph over a devastating plague. Beyond the towering structure, a flash of yellow flutters carelessly in the clear, blue sky. It is the flag of Mir Qamar-ud-din Khan Siddiqi, the first Nizam of Hyderabad. On it, sitting between two vivid stripes of yellow, is a large kulcha (flatbread). The symbol tells a curious story of how Siddiqi became the Nizam. The legend goes that before his rise to power, Siddiqi met a Pir (saint) who invited him to a daawat (feast) where he was served warm kulchas wrapped in a yellow cloth. Siddiqi, unable to resist, devoured seven. Watching him eat, the saint prophesied that he would one day become Nizam, and that his lineage would rule for seven generations. The prophecy came true, and Siddiqi became the first Nizam and founder of the Asaf Jahi Dynasty in 1724. Welcome to Hyderabad, the city of food It is 2025, and you are staring at the neon lights of Hotel Nayaab. The lights blink red and green in a steady rhythm, cutting through the hush of the sleepy city. It is only 4 am, yet a line already stretches along the narrow lanes of Chatta Bazaar in Old City. The scene vastly differs from 1725—Hyderabad is now wider, faster, and more crowded–but the four minarets still stand tall. Though the flag no longer flies above, three centuries later, the city beneath remains the same, a culinary mecca. Inside Hotel Nayaab, the kitchen stirs awake long before dawn. By 3 am, red and orange curries simmer in giant haandis (cooking pots), perfuming the air with clove and cardamom. On the opposite side, naans are rolled fresh and slapped onto the hot walls of a tandoor. Here, even breakfast carries the weight of legacy, and flavour can be found in conversations sprinkled with memories. 'Isko koi beat nahi kar paayega! (No one can beat this!),' declares Chef Rizwan Khader when asked about the uniqueness of Hyderabadi food. He adds that Hyderabad's tehzeeb (good manners) and mehmaan nawaazi (hospitality) make food the heart of community gatherings and relationship building. Food writer and chef Ruchira Hoon echoes Khader's assertion. She believes that eating is a living tradition. 'Isn't it the only possible tradition, other than folklore and folktale, which has some tangible effect on people? Because everybody has to eat. Food then tells a story of sustenance, memory, and living—a story which is passed down to us,' she says. The atmosphere at Nayaab reflects Hoon and Khader's sentiments. Its breakfast menu—Paya-Naan, Khichdi-Khatta, Keema-Roti—blends traditions shaped by centuries of migration, conquest, and adaptation. Paya is a rich goat trotter stew, tracing its roots to Central Asia's Pacha. As it travelled east between the 14th and 20th centuries, it took on new textures and spices, eventually becoming thicker and silkier in Hyderabad. With it comes the popular Char Koni Naan, the four-cornered bread from Purani Haveli kitchens, which is proofed for 24 hours and traditionally baked in underground tandoors. Some are star-shaped, others pan-shaped, each meant for different occasions. Naan is believed to have come to the city through the conquests of the Delhi Sultanate in the 14th century. The oldest naan store in Hyderabad, however, dates back to the era of the Nizam: Munshi Naan was established by Mohammed Hussain Saheb in 1851. Saheb was a munshi (clerk) during the rule of Bahadur Asif Jah, the fourth Nizam of Hyderabad. When his naan business gained popularity, people began calling it Munshi Naan. Then there's Khichdi-Khatta, Hyderabad's understated breakfast hero. To a North Indian palate, dry khichdi for breakfast might seem odd, but in Hyderabad, buttery lentil rice paired with Til Ka Kacha Khatta, a tangy sesame-peanut chutney, is a morning staple. Even 14th-century explorer Ibn Battuta noted, 'Munj is boiled with rice, then buttered and eaten. With the name Kishri, they have it for breakfast every day.' The exact origin of khichdi is difficult to ascertain. The earliest mentions of the dish can be found in the Mahabharata. However, it became widely popular during the Mughal rule, with Akbar, Jehangir, and Aurangzeb each having their preferred versions. Khichdi's hero accompaniment, a sour chutney, reflects the city's love for tang: a flavour motif that runs through Hyderabadi cuisine. As food historian Lizzie Collingham notes in an article in the Goya journal, early Deccani cuisine beautifully blended shredded coconut, curry leaves, fenugreek, and tamarind with foreign influences. It is said that the Nizams had a special fondness for breakfast, one that many Hyderabadis share even today. It's no surprise, then, that the breakfast menu of Hotel Nayaab is rooted in traditions that emerged—or were popularised—in the Nizam's kitchen. From royal kitchens to the common man's stove While paya and khichdi—steeped in legacy and a flair for reinvention—carry you through the morning, lunch tells stories of improvisation that are almost as rich as the food itself. Ask any local about Hyderabadi ingenuity, and you are likely to hear the story of Patthar ka Gosht, a dish born out of royal panic and roadside innovation, dating back to the rule of the sixth Nizam, Mir Mahboob Ali Khan Siddiqi, also known as Asaf Jah VI. Legend has it that the Nizam's cooks once forgot their tools on a hunting trip. Faced with hungry royalty and no skewers, they heated a stone over firewood and seared meat directly on it. Necessity became the mother of delicacy that day. Shaik Shoukat Vali, 44, who has lived in Hyderabad for the majority of his life and considers himself a true foodie, says that Patthar ka Gosht is among his favourite authentic Hyderabadi foods. 'I had it in a restaurant called Khan Saab, which I think is closed now. But, earlier, in the Old City, Patthar ka Gosht was never served in any hotels, it used to be cooked in the street—cooked on stones like how it was originally made—and served on the street too!' As Vali suggests, over the years, food from the Nizam's royal kitchen has become part of the everyday palate of the common man. Still, the stories don't fail to amaze and amuse. For instance, Falaknuma Palace, today a heritage hotel owned by the Taj group of hotels, was once the residence of Mir Mahboob Ali Khan Siddiqi. The converted hotel has retained the opulent taste of the Nizam, which is reflected in the Italianate entrance lobby and a library with a carved walnut roof. Most fascinating of all, however, is the Nizam's dining room. The room features a 101-seater dining table, the largest one in the world, adorned with rosewood carvings and green leather upholstery. The edges of the room's walls are decorated with paintings of royal delicacies—from peacock meat to biryani. People say that the Nizam would point to one of the 28 paintings depicting various food items in the 101 Dining Hall, and the royal chefs would prepare that dish for the day's meal. These dishes can be found in the Khwān Neʿmat-e Āṣafiya, a famous 19th-century cookbook with 680 recipes compiled by Ghulām Maḥbūb Ḥyderābādī, the manager of the kitchens of Nawab Sir Āsmān Jāh Bahādur, the prime minister of Hyderabad state from 1887 to 1894. It lists staggering demands: expensive saffron, special deghs (cauldrons), and as many as 20 ingredients ground into one masala. Until 1948, the last days of Nizam rule, these practices were upheld by khansamas (cooks). Chai pe Charcha In Hyderabad, as in the rest of the country, lunch is followed by the laziest hours of the afternoon. But the city reconvenes at 5 pm, when the sweet smell of milk, sugar, and cardamom pulls the locals from their afternoon slumber. Here, however, tea is not just a beverage. It is a way of being. While it boils over a low flame, stories are exchanged over plates of hot luqmi and bun maska. Luqmi, a Hyderabadi twist on the samosa, is a square, crusty pastry stuffed with spiced mutton mince—a nod to its Arabic root loqma, meaning morsel. Alongside it comes bun maska, a soft, buttered bun with roots in the Irani cafés established by Persian immigrants in the 18th and 19th centuries. These cafés, born from waves of migration and refuge, left behind not just architecture and tea culture, but an enduring affection for simple indulgences like bread, butter, and conversation. While luqmi and bun maska are served swaad anusaar or according to taste, the beloved Osmania biscuit—buttery, sweet, and salty—is ritualistically served on a white saucer with the milky Irani tea. It was created during the reign of the seventh Nizam, Mir Osman Ali Khan (1911–1948), when, during a hospital visit, he ordered biscuits to be served to recovering patients. Thus, a soft treat made of milk, cardamom, and flour was born. These biscuits are best enjoyed with Irani chai, introduced by Persian settlers in the 19th century. 'We have it (Irani chai) in our blood, and scores of cafes, big and small, serve thousands of cups of the delectable tea every day,' reads a Facebook post by Parsi Zoroastrians Worldwide. 'Be it the Grand Hotel, the Garden Restaurant or the new chain of Niloufer Cafes, Irani Chai drinking culture is deeply embedded in the ethos of Hyderabad.' Having grown up around Irani cafés, Yunus Lasania, historian and journalist, recalls the signature chai made of boiled milk and black tea liqueur, and the role they played as cultural equalisers. While aristocrats shaped the city's palate, he notes that it was in these modest cafés that the local cuisine actually thrived. Vali echoes Lasania's sentiment and puts it plainly: in the city, chai is a conversation, it is the first step towards forging a human connection; chai is sacred, and so is sharing it. 'One day, my friends and I went to drink tea, and there were five of us. So, I told the waiter to bring five teas. That's when my friend said, 'What are you doing? Five teas? No. Never. No one drinks a full cup of tea.' Then I learnt that if there are two people, order one cup of tea. If there are three people, order two cups. If there are five, order three cups and share. No one drinks the full tea,' Vali recounts, laughing. He adds, 'When you order tea, it is not like you drink it and leave. You can sit for hours in a hotel, and the owners would never tell you to go. You drink the tea. Then, when your friends come, you share the tea with them. That's how it works here.' Dum Biryani and Qubani ka Meetha: A Mughal legacy After a full day of large meals, it is still dinner when the crown jewels—living archives of the Qutb Shahi and Mughal histories of the city—come out. Hyderabadi Dum Biryani is the prime example of the city's syncretic cuisine. The Qutb Shahis, of Persian origin, introduced their culinary traditions to the Deccan, blending them with local spices to create a distinct biryani. Mughal techniques like layering and dum cooking influenced the dish, which was later refined and popularised under the Nizams. Today, the city's defining meal is a confluence of Mughlai methods and Southern spices: rose water, saffron, cloves, and cardamom. Biryani's beloved companion, Mirchi ka Salan—a bold, tangy curry of green chillies, peanuts, sesame, and tamarind—traces back to Emperor Akbar's coronation. Folklore says that Emperor Akbar's fondness for Mirchi ka Salan made it a highlight during his coronation festivities. The flavourful curry, crafted from green chillies, peanuts, sesame seeds, coconut, and tamarind, was reportedly introduced in the royal court by one of the chefs, and it caught the king's attention. The Asaf Jahi dynasty that ruled Hyderabad embraced this legacy, further enriching its flavours and solidifying its status as a culinary emblem of the region. Over time, the chutney became a staple in Hyderabadi cuisine, cherished for its harmonious balance of heat, tanginess, and nuttiness. Today, it remains an essential accompaniment to biryani. A vegetarian delicacy—almost as popular as biryani—that traces its roots to the Mughal rule is the Baghare Baingan: purple brinjal in a velvety peanut-coconut-tamarind gravy. 'Baghara' means to temper or infuse with flavour, and this dish from Tashkent became a staple between the 16th and 19th centuries. Another gift from the Mughals is Qubani ka Meetha, among Hyderabad's most cherished sweets. The apricot-kissed Qubani ka Meetha—made of stewed dried apricots, custard, and sometimes ice cream—is said to be a result of Emperor Babur's fondness for apricots, which Hyderabad adopted more enthusiastically than Delhi ever did. Despite early interaction with the expanding Mughal empire through trade and migration, Mughal rule was officially established in Hyderabad in 1687, when Emperor Aurangzeb annexed the Golconda Sultanate. Though the Mughals controlled the region, their governors eventually gained autonomy, giving rise to the Asaf Jahi dynasty. From this melding of dynasties and traditions came Haleem, a Yemeni import that Hyderabad made its own. Originally a breakfast for Arab guards in Barkas, it evolved into a Ramzan staple. Unlike its cousins in Kashmir and the Middle East, Hyderabad's version—rich, spiced, and slow-cooked—earned a Geographical Indication (GI) tag, becoming the first meat-based dish in the country to have a GI Tag. Migrants from Yemen, particularly Hadhrami Arabs, came to Hyderabad under the rule of the Nizams, serving as guards and settling in the Barkas neighbourhood. Today, this area remains a vibrant reminder of the Arab connection, housing over 3 lakh people of Yemeni and Arabian descent. Historian and columnist Sajjad Shahid summed up the city's culinary culture, saying, 'Hyderabadis are connoisseurs, and they love their food. They are not bothered about where it comes from. They adapt it to suit their own palate.' Generations of Hyderabadis would agree.
News18
27-06-2025
- Politics
- News18
Shiv Sena MP's Driver Gifted Land Worth Rs 150,00,00,000 By Salar Jung's Descendent
Last Updated: EOW stated that the land was gifted via a hibanama signed by Mir Mazhar Ali Khan and six Salar Jung kin, none of whom have responded to summons seeking their statements In a surprising turn of events, a descendant of the esteemed Salar Jung family, once closely associated with the former Nizam of Hyderabad, has gifted three acres of prime land worth approximately Rs 150 crore to Javed Rasool Sheikh, the driver of Shiv Sena MP Sandipanrao Bhumre. This unexpected act has raised eyebrows, given the absence of any familial or equitable relationship between the giver and the recipient. What Led To The Doubt? The Economic Offences Wing (EOW) has launched an investigation following a complaint, questioning both Javed Rasool Sheikh and the MP's son, MLA Vilas Bhumre. Speaking to the Times of India, Chhatrapati Sambhajinagar commissioner of police Pravin Pawar said, 'The inquiry is based on a complaint lodged by a lawyer from Parbhani." Officials were perplexed as to why such a valuable piece of land, located in the prime Jalna Road area of Dawoodpura, Sambhajinagar, was gifted to Sheikh, who has been employed by the Bhumre family for 13 years. 'We have summoned the driver, Jawed Rasul Shaikh (38), for questioning and asked him to submit copies of his I-T returns, established sources of income, and to explain on what basis the gift deed has been signed in his name. The family members, who executed the gift deed, have so far failed to turn up," Sambhaji Pawar, the EOW inspector, was quoted as saying by Times of India. According to the Times of India report, the police said the gift deed identifies the disputed land as a 12-acre private property once belonging to Salar Jung, located in the Bagsherganj area of Dawoodpura. The document mentions that, following prolonged legal proceedings at the land records office and the secretariat, the family was allotted 12,438.2 square metres as their rightful share. This decision, initially made by the superintendent of land records in 2016, was upheld by the minister of state for revenue on January 30, 2023. Around that period, police added, the descendants of Salar Jung executed a hibanama transferring the land to Jawed. What Did EOW Say? EOW Inspector Sambhaji Pawar stated that they would scrutinise Sheikh's income tax returns and other financial records to ascertain the reason behind this substantial gift. Sheikh, on his part, claimed to have good relations with the Salar Jung descendants, which he cites as the reason for their generosity. However, the complainant, lawyer Mujahid Khan, questioned the legitimacy of such a transfer. As reported by Times of India, Khan asked, 'Why would the descendants of Salar Jung gift their land to a driver based in Sambhajinagar, especially after the legal verdict went in their favour?" Khan also raised doubts about the validity of the hibanama, stating, 'Such a deed is legally acceptable only among blood relatives. In this case, not only are the Salar Jung heirs and the driver unrelated, but they also belong to different sects within Islam." MLA Vilas Sandipan Bhumre clarified that while Sheikh is employed by their family, they are not responsible for his personal decisions. Both he and his father have been questioned by the police as part of the ongoing investigation. Vilas Bhumre, the MLA from Paithan, confirmed to Times of India that he had been questioned by the EOW regarding the case. 'They asked me about the issue, and I clarified that we have no involvement in the land deal," he said. 'A 'hibanama' is a legally recognised method of property transfer. Although Jawed works as our driver, we cannot be held accountable for all his personal actions," he added. Speaking to Times of India, Jawed, the driver, said he has been fully cooperating with the investigation and has already provided all necessary documents. 'I've been working as a driver for the Bhumre family for the past 12 to 13 years," he said. 'The police questioned me about the land, and I explained that I received it through a hibanama. I have maintained a cordial relationship with the family's descendants, and they gifted the land to me out of goodwill," he added. The Salar Jung family, renowned for their historical significance as Diwans (Prime Ministers) to the Nizams, remains silent on the matter. tags : controversy driver Economic Offences Wing (EOW) gift investigation land nizam of hyderabad shiv sena transfer Location : Aurangabad, India, India First Published: June 27, 2025, 11:33 IST News india Shiv Sena MP's Driver Gifted Land Worth Rs 150,00,00,000 By Salar Jung's Descendent
India Today
18-06-2025
- India Today
ED raids in Maharashtra over Rs 52-crore forest land scam linked to Nizam
The Enforcement Directorate (ED) on Tuesday conducted raids at multiple locations in Maharashtra in connection with a land grab case involving the illegal sale of forest land that once belonged to the Nizam of Hyderabad and was later reserved as private forest by the state, officials said. The searches were carried out at premises linked to JM Mhatre Infrastructure Pvt Ltd in Panvel and Dadar. The case is related to the fraudulent transfer of government-reserved forest land to the National Highways Authority of India (NHAI), for which the accused allegedly received compensation to the tune of Rs 52 to the ED, the land parcels in question were originally owned by the Nizam of Hyderabad. In 1962, these lands were illegally transferred to one Sayyed Mohammad Abdul Hamid Qadri through forged documents. Qadri subsequently sold the land to JM Mhatre. To curb illegal ownership claims, the Maharashtra government enacted the Maharashtra Private Forests (Acquisition) Act in 1975 and acquired these lands. However, in 2005, Mhatre and Qadri allegedly colluded with revenue officials to manipulate land records through duplicate mutation entries, listing the land under their central agency's probe is based on an FIR registered by the Range Forest Officer (RFO), Uran, Alibag Division, at Panvel Police Station on September 5, 2023. ED later registered an Enforcement Case Information Report (ECIR).As per the FIR, JM Mhatre illegally transferred 1.86 hectares of land to NHAI and received Rs 42.4 crore in compensation. Qadri transferred 0.4225 hectares and received Rs 9.69 teams carried out searches at two locations in Panvel and one in Dadar, which continued till late evening, aiming to trace the proceeds of the crime and expose the full extent of the alleged land Watch
Economic Times
15-06-2025
- Politics
- Economic Times
Telangana, Andhra Pradesh set to formally divide New Delhi-based assets
Tired of too many ads? Remove Ads New Delhi: Eleven years after the bifurcation of Andhra Pradesh, the two states of Telangana and Andhra are set to formally divide the assets in New Delhi and initiate the process of building two separate to sources, chief secretaries will sign on the dotted line soon to divide land and properties between Andhra Pradesh and Telangana. A senior Andhra Pradesh government official confirmed to ET that the state has received a letter from the home ministry formalising this division. The united Andhra Pradesh owned 19.776 acres of land in Delhi, which included Andhra Bhawan at 1 Ashoka Road and land in Pataudi House. This has now been divided, with 11.536 acres of land allocated to Andhra Pradesh and 8.24 acres to Telangana. The biggest bone of contention was the allocation of different blocks in Andhra Bhawan. Both the states had insisted on getting Godavari and Sabari blocks, which are on contiguous parcels of land inside Andhra Bhawan complex. However, in the final division of assets, Sabari block has gone to Telangana and Godavari and Swarna Mukhi blocks to Andhra Pradesh. Both the states have got one parcel each in Pataudi assets have been divided as per the 58:42 population ratio spelt out in Andhra Pradesh Reorganisation Act , with 58% going to Andhra and 42% to Telangana. With this division, the state governments will embark on the exercise of constructing their respective bhawans. According to sources, Telangana had initiated the design process over 18 months ago but has not finalised it. A similar exercise had been initiated by Andhra Pradesh, but sources indicated that chief minister N Chandrababu Naidu did not approve the design. "The design process will be initiated again," said the official. The present Andhra Bhawan is an old building and is likely to give way to two new Andhra Pradesh owned such vast land in the heart of Delhi as the Nizam of Hyderabad had obtained 18.18 acres from the Government of India in 1917, 1928 and 1936 on payment. On this, Hyderabad House was established. Later, NT Rama Rao government gave Hyderabad House to the Centre in lieu of which Andhra Pradesh received land on 1 Ashoka Road, 7.56 acres Pataudi House and 1.21 acres in Nursing Hostel close by.
India.com
15-06-2025
- Business
- India.com
India's miser king…had Rs 20355767000000 net worth, owned many diamonds, huge amount of gold, but smoked used cigarette, eat in tin plate, name was…
New Delhi: There are thousands of stories about the legacy of India's royal families. Wealth worth crores, diamonds, jewels, real estate, kings and maharajas had no dearth of wealth. Palaces spread over thousands of acres were filled with queens and princesses. The king whose story we are telling today, had so much wealth that diamonds were weighed in kilos and gold and silver in tons. In those days, he had more than 50 Rolls Royce cars. So much money that he was among the richest people not only in India but in the world. This is the story of the Nizam of Hyderabad State. India's first billionaire The title of India's first billionaire is with the seventh Nizam of Hyderabad, Mir Osman Ali Khan. He had so much wealth that it is difficult to estimate it. He had a treasure of gems like diamonds, gold, silver, sapphire and topaz. There was so much gold that trucks loaded with gold bricks used to be parked in the garden. He had assets worth 236 billion dollars i.e. about Rs 2,03,55,76,70,00,000. Diamond paperweight Mir Osman Ali Khan had a 185 carat Jacob diamond, which he used as a paperweight. The price of this paperweight was Rs 1350 crore. He had 20 lakh pounds in cash in his palace. He had dozens of palaces to live in, but he spent most of his time in Falaknuma Palace built in the middle of Hyderabad. It is said that he had so many diamonds that an Olympic size swimming pool could be filled with them. Owner of Falaknuma Palace This palace was built by Hyderabad's Prime Minister Nawab Sir Vikar-ul-Umar in 1893, but the credit for making it luxurious goes to the last Nizam of Hyderabad, Asaf Jah VII. In that era, the cost of building this palace was Rs 40 lakh. The palace is built on an area of 32 acres. 220 rooms, world's largest dining table Falaknuma Palace has a total of 220 rooms. Seeing the beauty of the palace, Times Magazine had featured it on its cover page. Falaknuma Palace has the world's largest dining table, which is made of seven different pieces. 101 people can sit and eat together on this 80 feet long table. How much wealth According to a report in the British newspaper 'The Independent', the Nizam of Hyderabad had a total wealth of 236 billion dollars between 1886-1967. The Nizam of Hyderabad donated five tons (5000 kg) of gold to the Indian government during the 1965 war with China. A great miser Hyderabad's Nizam Mir Osman Ali was the richest person in India but he was equally miserly. Nizam's miserliness was such that he would not even leave people's used cigarettes. According to historians Dominic Lapierre and Larry Collins' book 'Freedom at Midnight', Mir Osman Ali was infamous for his miserliness. Whenever a guest came to his palace and left his unsatisfied cigarette, Nizam would pick up his used and unsatisfied cigarette and start smoking it. Utensils of gold and silver, but tin plates for himself Nizam did not spend on himself. Nizam wore the same cap for 35 years in his life and he never got his clothes ironed. Nizam's miserliness was such that despite having gold and silver utensils, he himself used to eat in tin utensils. Dominique Lapierre and Larry Collins wrote about Nizam's miserliness in their book that he had so many gold utensils that 200 people could eat together in them, but he himself used to eat in old tin utensils. Usurping people's cars Nizam had no dearth of luxury cars, 50 Rolls Royce was parked in his garage, but whenever he saw luxury cars in his capital, he would forcibly ask for that car as a gift from the owner. Despite having thousands of cars, he used to travel in a rickety car.
