Latest news with #Oaxacan
Chicago Tribune
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- Chicago Tribune
Restaurant review: Las Carnitas Uruapan La Villita, a flagship for pork in Chicago
Las Carnitas Uruapan La Villita, the newest Mexican restaurant by the first family of pork in Chicago, brings 50 years of tradition and transformation to a flagship committed to the community in Little Village. Inocencio Carbajal opened the original Carnitas Uruapan in 1975 with his wife, Abigail Carbajal, in Pilsen. While , as the family patriarch is known in the neighborhood, a nickname for his fair skin and green eyes, still roams the dining rooms, his son now runs the family business built on carnitas, and hospitality just as tender. Marcos Carbajal, a former banker and second-generation owner of the enterprise, expanded with a second location in Gage Park in 2019. They celebrated the grand opening of the third and largest restaurant in January. Carbajal was named a James Beard Awards semifinalist for Outstanding Restaurateur this year. The flagship in Little Village has become a dining destination for locals and regional tourists too. 'We see people of Mexican origin from around the Midwest,' said Carbajal. 'They come to buy quinceañera dresses and then eat carnitas.' When you wend your way past shops blooming with birthday ballgowns, and sidewalk vendors selling limes or Labubus, a crunchy puff of chicharrón may magically appear. 'If you're waiting for takeout with 15 or 20 plus people, we'll go up and down the line to offer you chicharrón,' said Carbajal. 'Just to make that wait a little easier to manage.' If you dine in, instead of chips and salsa, your server will bring to your table a captivating spread of complimentary chicharrón and salsas. That's an amazing gift at a restaurant where you can feast for under $20. The stunning carnitas 'Especial' is their signature sampler meal with a half pound of glorious pork, a crackling taco dorado, velvety refried beans, six house-made tortillas with all the garnishes (onion, cilantro, lime) plus more chicharrón and seriously spicy salsas (verde and jalapeño tomato). You can choose your cut of carnitas, but I highly recommend getting the trio mix, with lean shoulder (like pulled pork), rib meat and lush skin. Then build your own tacos with the warm tortillas, inhaling the elusive perfume of toasted corn. Do note that the special is only available weekdays. On weekends, the corundas reign. The deeply flavorful Michoacán-style triangular tamales are wrapped in fresh corn leaves, and served unwrapped, but fully dressed with brick red chile de arbol salsa, fresh crema and a dusting of cotija cheese. They're not filled like the more familiar tamales, but studded with Oaxacan queso, similar to mozzarella, or acelgas y queso (Swiss chard and cheese). 'It's a very nostalgic item,' said Carbajal. 'In a neighborhood with a lot of people from our part of Mexico in Michoacán, I think that one hits home.' But they're not from his family's recipe. In the early days of the pandemic, he hosted a pop-up with chef Danny Espinoza, now co-owner with his wife, Jhoana Ruiz, of Santa Masa Tamaleria in Dunning. 'He's a friend and his grandmother was a tamale vendor in Michoacán,' said Carbajal. 'So it's his family recipe.' The corundas are made with manteca (lard), he added, of which they have plenty from cooking their carnitas, and two kinds of fresh masa. 'I'm a big fan of our friends at El Popo,' said Carbajal about El Popocatepetl Tortilleria. 'We've been using them since the '70s and they're our neighbors in Pilsen.' Carnitas by the pound cannot be dethroned as their all-around bestseller, but the most popular cut has changed from the old neighborhood to the new, reflecting changing demographics. In Pilsen, they now sell a lot more lean shoulder, Carbajal said. Meanwhile, the pork ribs and fantastically funky skin are a lot more popular in Little Village. The silky chicharrón guisado, fried pork rinds simmered soft in red sauce, remains a weekend-only item at the original store, but is available every day at the sibling locations to tuck into tortillas. Glossy green guacamole and thick-cut chips, the metamorphosis of those tortillas by baptism in bubbling hot manteca, offers a cooling contrast, as does a bright ensalada de nopales (cactus salad). The golden tacos dorados — filled with pillowy pockets of potato and cheese, potato and chorizo, or sesos (spicy pork brain) — crackle when hot from the fryer. Surprisingly, there's one filling that's common across the neighborhoods. 'By far the traditional pork brain,' said Carbajal. 'Because carnitas places in Michoacán are known for selling those hand in hand with the carnitas.' The sesos gets seasoned and cooked with salt, garlic, serrano chile, onion and cilantro before it's stuffed into a tortilla and flash-fried in the caso, or cauldron. The tacos dorados are best when eaten immediately, otherwise they'll harden, and do need a tart squeeze of lime or fire from salsa. Dessert is limited to the frozen paletas first launched in Gage Park, with an especially lovely Gansito pop that's layered with the beloved Mexican chocolate and strawberry snack cake. At the flagship, I would have liked at least one more sweet, perhaps a variation on a regional specialty. After all, they're serving alcoholic drinks for the first time in Little Village, highlighting charanda, the sugarcane spirit made nearly in their hometown in Michoacán. The refreshing Tarasco Secrets cocktail, mixed with Charanda Uruapan and Nixta Licor de Elote (corn liqueur), is familiar and fruited with guava, and shockingly low-priced at $10, when drinks elsewhere go for easily twice as much. 'We wanted to make cocktails that your Mexican aunt or uncle wouldn't think, 'What are you handing me? This tastes weird,'' said Carbajal, laughing. He worked with cantinero (bartender) Luis Estrada, bar manager at The Press Room. Nonalcoholic drinks are delicious too, from an iced café de olla to the house-made horchata, both delicately spiced and sweetened. Regulars should note that a horchata or agua de jamaica (hibiscus) is no longer included with the weekday carnitas meal. 'We can blame inflation for that,' said the restaurateur. But the weekend-only menudo is still a steal. One of the world's legendary hangover cures transforms beef tripe, guajillo chiles and aromatics into a soothing stew. You dress your bowl to taste with onion, cilantro and oregano as part of the restorative ritual. 'Price is something I'm very mindful of,' said Carbajal. 'I want big families to come by.' I ordered online for one visit, because the majority of the business is still takeout, and dined in for another. When I called to confirm my order, after I got through the voice prompts in Spanish, I was able to speak to a live bilingual person. Service was excellent for takeout and dine-in, both fast and friendly. But the thoughtful hospitality starts even before you arrive, with two parking lots in the high-traffic area. The colorful interior by designer Aida Napoles of AGN Design features ribbons on a ceiling installation hiding little marionettes. Everybody used to have those when they were kids down in Mexico, Carbajal said. They're just another detail to discover when a culture is truly seen. Las Carnitas Uruapan La Villita 3801 W. 26th St. 773-940-2770 Open: Monday to Thursday 10 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Friday 9 a.m. to 4 p.m.; Saturday and Sunday 8 a.m. to 5 p.m. Prices: $10.99 (weekday only Carnitas 'Especial' meal), $6.99 (guacamole and tortilla chips), $6 (weekend only corunda), $10 (Tarasco Secrets cocktail), $3.50 (12 ounce iced cafe de olla) Sound: OK (65 to 70 dB) Accessibility: Wheelchair accessible with restrooms on same level Tribune rating: Excellent, three of four stars Ratings key: Four stars, outstanding; three stars, excellent; two stars, very good; one star, good; no stars, unsatisfactory. Meals are paid for by the Tribune.
Eater
15-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
Welcome to the Jungle Bar
is a journalist and longtime Las Vegas resident who has been covering entertainment and following trends within the city's restaurant and bar scene for the better part of two decades. The crew behind the popular dog-themed shipwreck bar Stray Pirate is trading pups for cats — big cats. On Thursday, June 12, they unveiled Prowl right next door, a new jungle-inspired cocktail lounge with shadowy rock walls and adventurous cocktails — all under the watchful gaze of a black panther that stalks silently across the screens behind the bar. Chris 'Tater' Gutierrez, general manager and cocktail creator at both Stray Pirate and Prowl, saw an opportunity when the T-shirt shop closed next door. But he didn't want to disrupt the cozy, chaotic vibe he fostered at Stray Pirate. 'So we wanted to do something else and create an entirely different bar, a bit the same, but more refined,' he says. Inspired by Elvis's Jungle Room at Graceland, Gutierrez leaned into the kitsch: a moss-covered lava rock wall with a carved Olmec face, a crystal-lined cave hallway, and two standout bathrooms — one with an overhead butterfly display and the other with twinkling fiber optic 'fireflies' dangling from the ceiling. The 1,200-square-foot room seats just under 50 and features a retro feel with booths of burnt orange and avocado green beneath glowing glass orbs. Prowl. Louiie Victa Prowl's cocktails follow the same inventive playbook Gutierrez developed next door at Stray Pirate — housemade syrups, fresh fruit, and unexpected flavors, all anchored by top-shelf spirits. Think ingredients like mashed sugar snap peas, honeydew, and housemade orgeat made from roasted pepitas, and a ginger beer infused with makrut lime leaf and hibiscus. It's a style Gutierrez has honed over the years behind the bar at the likes of Corduroy, Oak & Ivy, and Atomic Liquors. The drinks at Prowl are cheeky by design. Gutierrez describes the Jungle Spirits menu as 'playfully raunchy,' with irreverent names and cult movie references. There's Sex Panther, a blend of reposado tequila and Oaxacan rum served in a ceramic panther head and teased on the menu as containing 'bits of real panther.' For a Good Time Call includes an actual phone number that patrons can dial for entertainment. 'We're trying to make the menu lighthearted and fun to read,' Gutierrez says. But for him, it's still all about what's in the glass. Monstera Mash combines Capurro Quebranta Pisco with savory sugar snap peas, citrus, mint, elderflower, cardamom, and egg white. The Cougar is a light grapefruit-and-rose vodka drink, while the Morning Wood blends Vesta coffee with Woodford Reserve Bourbon, maple, Italian amaro, and sherry for something bold, balanced, and a little bit naughty. Prowl. Louiie Victa Prowl's opening is the latest sign of the cocktail bar revolution that's happening in the Arts District. It joins other new arrivals like Natalie Young's Echo Taste and Sound, James Tree's Petite Boheme, Corner Bar Management's Doberman, and Nocturno from Milpa's DJ Flores — all run by bartenders with deep roots in Vegas and serious culinary chops. Together, they're redefining the Las Vegas cocktail bar: serving elevated drinks in high-concept spaces built for bar-hopping nights in a walkable, fast-evolving neighborhood. 'This is the area where people's dreams are coming true,' Gutierrez says about the Arts District. 'You can go into a spot and see somebody's dream come together within four walls.' Louiie Victa Prowl. Louiie Victa Prowl. Louiie Victa
CBS News
13-07-2025
- Business
- CBS News
San Francisco chef faces tariffs, fears of ICE raids while fighting to preserve Oaxacan culture
Isai Cuevas has come a long way from his days as a dishwasher. Now the proud chef and owner of Donaji, a Oaxacan restaurant in San Francisco's Mission District, Cuevas said quality has always been a priority. But between the struggles brought on by COVID-19 and now rising tariffs, he's growing increasingly concerned. "To-go stuff comes from overseas, most of them, and we got hit — that, the tariffs. We are a Mexican restaurant — avocados, limes — that's another thing that could affect us," Cuevas said. He's referring to a 30% tariff on Mexican imports set to go into effect on Aug. 1. Even as he braces for the economic hit, Cuevas said he's doing everything possible to keep prices reasonable for his guests. "We are just trying to balance it out. We are in a neighborhood, the Mission, which is Latino. We just don't want to be expensive for people. We are just trying to manage the prices as best as we can," he said. Cuevas believes the only way to make that happen is to bring more people into the restaurant. Despite Donaji being featured in the Michelin Guide, he's noticed fewer guests — a drop he attributes to fear following recent ICE raids across California. "I can see it because there are not much Latinos getting out, eating. We are just like, not comfortable. We are not comfortable going out. We are not comfortable right now with the scenario that is happening," Cuevas said. But no matter the mounting pressures, he refuses to compromise the quality of his dishes. From fresh Oaxacan cheese to flavorful moles, Cuevas said he's proud to share his heritage. "Great food, great environment, and I think that's one more thing that I want to keep alive, is our culture, our traditions. And the only way to do it is just doing it and sharing it with people — to keep it alive," he said. For Isai Cuevas, this isn't just about keeping a restaurant open, it's about keeping a culture and a community thriving.
Eater
09-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
One of LA's Best Thai Restaurants Is Expanding With Two New Locations
is an editor of the Southern California/Southwest region, who covers the evolving landscape of LA's food scene. It's gearing up to be an exciting summer for Holy Basil. Wedchayan 'Deau' Arpapornnopparat's Bangkok-style Thai restaurant is relocating from its original location in Downtown LA to the former Guerrilla Tacos space in the Arts District. The Downtown location on the first floor of Santee Court Apartment will remain open until the move, which is slated for this fall. The Arts District location will feature an expanded menu, along with a beverage program from partner Joy Yuon. But before Holy Basil makes the move to the Arts District, Arpapornnopparat will open a new location of the restaurant in Santa Monica at the end of July. While Holy Basil expands, Arpapornnopparat and Yuon are already cooking up their next idea. The duo is set to open Yhing Yhang BBQ inside the forthcoming Maydan Market in West Adams. The restaurant, which translates to 'more grill' in Thai, will serve gai yhang (grilled chicken thighs) and neuh yhang (grilled beef short ribs), alongside roasted duck curry, among other dishes. Yhing Yhang will be joined by a new Oaxacan stand from Poncho's Tlayudas chef Alfonso 'Poncho' Martinez, Rose Previte's Michelin-starred restaurant Maydan, and more. Mr. Beef is coming to LA On the heels of the release of the latest season of The Bear, Mr. Beef is returning to Los Angeles for a pop-up at Uncle Paulie's Deli on July 19 and 20. The restaurant and its beef sandwiches served as the inspiration for The Bear's fictional restaurant, the Original Beef of Chicagoland. Alongside the sandwiches, Courtney Storer (the culinary producer and a co-executive producer on The Bear) will serve Italian ice from her pop-up, Coco's to Go. A pickle cart sponsored by HexClad and exclusive merchandise will also be on-site. Claud comes to Los Angeles Acclaimed New York restaurant Claud is headed to Los Angeles for a one-night-only collaboration with Dunsmoor on August 7. The set-price menu will be served family-style, with courses that encompass raw, larder, main, and dessert. Tickets are priced at $135 per person, and reservations can be made on OpenTable. Beer and wine at Skaf's on York Highland Park's Lebanese restaurant, Skaf's on York, just added beer and wine to its menu. Head over to the casual eatery for a glass of natural wine or Lebanese beer paired with shawarma plates and hummus. Holbox heads west Chef Gilberto Cetina of Michelin-Starred Holbox is headed to Venice on July 22 for a one-night-only collaborative dinner with Chef José Olmedo Carles Rojas of Si! Mon. The pair will present a six-course tasting menu, priced at $180 per person, and a cantina-style a la carte menu. Reservations are currently sold out on Resy, but limited walk-ins are available. Eater LA All your essential food and restaurant intel delivered to you Email (required) Sign Up By submitting your email, you agree to our Terms and Privacy Notice . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google Privacy Policy and Terms of Service apply.
Eater
03-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Eater
4 Restaurants to Try Fourth of July Weekend in Los Angeles
Skip to main content Current eater city: Los Angeles Every Friday, our editors compile a trusty list of recommendations to answer the most pressing of questions: 'Where should I eat?' Here now are four places to check out this weekend in Los Angeles. And if you need some ideas on where to drink, here's our list of the hottest places to get cocktails in town. Whatever your Fourth of July plans are, a really great hot dog and cold beer should be part of them. And while grilling at home and hosting is great, sometimes you want to leave the cooking up to someone else. At Walt's in Eagle Rock, hot dogs are always ready in the warmer, and ice-cold Hamm's only cost a few dollars. Plenty of LA restaurants are doing a knife-and-fork-required preparation of the hot dog, with wagyu and all manner of luxury ingredients, but Walt's keeps it simple with just a ketchup and mustard-topped dog. Grab a beer (or a glass of wine), a hot dog, and head out to the back patio to find a film photo booth and plenty of seating. The warm pretzels are also worth an order. When you're done at Walt's, head a block down to Capri Club for Negronis or martinis. 4680 Eagle Rock Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90041. — Rebecca Roland, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest Larchmont may be one of Los Angeles's great people-watching destinations, with crowds dipping in and out of niche fragrance shops and lining up for hulking Levain chocolate chip cookies. One of the best patios to watch all the hustle and bustle without being caught up in it is at Great White, an Australian all-day cafe with wicker lamps and sidewalk seating. Drop by for a breakfast burrito stuffed with scrambled eggs and Oaxacan cheese, or stick around for lunch, featuring chicken kebabs and smoked salmon pizza. The drinks program is also solid, offering coffee, cocktails, matcha, green juice, and various teas. This is definitely a see-and-be-seen type of spot, so don't be surprised if you end up in the background of a TikTok. 244 N. Larchmont Boulevard, Los Angeles, CA 90004. — Rebecca Roland, editor, Eater Southern California/Southwest The Los Angeles sandwich superstars behind Bread Head just opened a second location of their focaccia sandwich shop in Manhattan Beach steps away from the water on Manhattan Avenue. Here, you can get summer's ultimate sandwich — a peak-season tomato BLT, obviously — on salty, crackly bread that texturally crosses somewhere between focaccia and ciabatta. The Bread Head BLT, swiped with garlic mayo and piled with iceberg lettuce, sliced tomato, and Nueske's bacon, makes for near-ideal picnic fare once you add companions like the store's 'picnic nachos,' which is really a small tub of homemade pimento cheese with Have'a tortilla chips, and an icy Arnold Palmer. Mix and match with the half-sandwich option or go all in on the one you love most. Vegetarian options include a mozzarella sandwich, stacked high with alfalfa sprouts; the shop doesn't have a gluten-free focaccia supplier yet but one day, we're sure, it will (maybe someone nearby in Venice can help). 1129 Manhattan Avenue, Manhattan Beach, CA, 90266. — Nicole Adlman, Eater cities manager If you love the pizzeria Bettina in Montecito, you're sure to love its little sister Tina's Pizza in Linden Square, a new retail market and food hall just three blocks away from the beach in Carpinteria, California. Find pies like the cacio e pepe (mozzarella, ricotta, pecorino sardo, cracked black pepper) and meat lover's (sausage, pepperoni, pickled onion), plus simple green salads, antipasti (think wagyu arancini and buttery garlic knots), a couple of sandwiches, and desserts like kid-friendly olive oil cupcakes crowned with orange buttercream. Make it a feast at Tina's Pizza or crawl your way through the market, which is also home to Santa Barbara favorites Corazon Cocina and Dart Coffee Company. Once sated and — if needed — caffeinated, hit the sand. 732 Linden Avenue, Carpinteria, CA 93013. — Nicole Adlman, Eater cities manager See More:
