6 days ago
Florida's Fort Myers is a little slice of paradise just waiting to be discovered
Nowhere is the spirit of resilience more evident than in Fort Myers, a tourist destination in southwest Florida that has bounced back after the devastation of Hurricane Ian in 2022.
The deadly tropical cyclone ripped through the region's spectacular beaches and islands, leaving millions without power and forcing inhabitants to take refuge on their roofs.
Hurricane Ian destroyed thousands of standing structures and collapsed the Sanibel Causeway, entrapping those left on the islands for days.
But the determined inhabitants of this unique region rebuilt their communities and brought the destination back to its former glory.
On a recent trip to this tropical paradise on the Gulf of Mexico (or America, depending on who you ask), we experienced this fighting spirit in our encounters with the local businesspeople.
One such local stalwart is Cal Bruno, who runs Bruno's of Brooklyn, an Italian restaurant on First Street in downtown Fort Myers, with his wife Genevieve. Their first restaurant around the corner was badly affected by Hurricane Ian, but they rebuilt the business at their current location.
A delightful aspect of Bruno's is the TV monitor in the upstairs dining area, which shows a live stream from the kitchen. Diners can watch Cal and his chefs work away on their exciting Sicilian dishes.
Cal, who is on a mission to bring the authentic tastes of Sicily to Florida, explained: 'We are going on a trip to Italy soon to source the perfect type of pasta for our restaurant here in Fort Myers.'
Our next stop was Swamp Cat Brew Company, run by Chris Gutierrez and his wife.
By his own admission, armed forces veteran Chris is the rarest of breeds: a born and bred Floridian.
As we sampled some of the refreshing beers at his pub, he showed us his impressive brewing equipment and explained the process.
'I started out by home brewing when I was stationed in San Diego. Then I moved back home to Florida to start this business,' said Chris.
Next day, we got a windswept view of Fort Myers during a boat tour along the impressive Caloosahatchee River. Our guide Renee Shelly, owner of Off the Leash Charters, explained that the river takes its name from the Calusa, a Native American tribe who inhabited the area.
Back on dry land, we visited the Arcade Theatre, where Thomas Edison watched movies with his pals Henry Ford and Harvey Firestone.
After leaving our luxurious rooms at The Luminary Hotel, we headed south along the Sanibel Causeway to Sanibel Island.
As we departed Fort Myers, we passed the winter estates of Edison (Seminole Lodge) and Ford (The Mangoes). According to our driver, Robert, these major attractions have been miraculously left undamaged by countless hurricanes.
On the way to our next hotel, Sundial Beach Resort, we stopped at Wickies Lighthouse Restaurant for breakfast and visited the nearby Sanibel Lighthouse.
We weren't allowed to climb the lighthouse, but the surrounding beach and park still afforded us some great views of the causeway waterways. Brian, one of the owners of Wickies, explained the restaurant was named after the people who used to light the wicks of the lighthouse in the old days.
To avoid the inevitable sunstroke, we boarded our air-conditioned mini-bus and headed north to Captiva. When it came time for the Adventure Sea Kayak Buck Key Tour, our group was excited to finally see some manatees.
I watched nervously as each of my companions diligently got into their kayaks and hoped nobody would make me do the same. From a safe distance, I bravely watched as they paddled off toward a hidden bayou.
Then I made my way to the nearby 'Tween Waters Island Resort, where I ordered a virgin pina colada and soaked in the swimming pool for two hours.
When reunited with the group, they reported they had a great time in the kayaks, but all they saw of the manatees was a rump. Later, when asked what their favourite part of the trip was, each of them said it was the kayaks.
After lunch at Doc Ford's Rum Bar, we headed for Bailey-Matthews National Shell Museum, where the star exhibit is a giant Pacific octopus.
We visited the Living Gallery of Aquarians and the Great Hall of Shells, but the highlight for me was the trough full of shellfish.
We were invited to wash our hands and touch the tiny creatures. The museum also had a media room where visitors could watch videos of shell experts talking about – you guessed it – shells. As we left, we were each allowed to pick and take away our own seashell from a bowl.
Next day, we boarded a Captiva Cruises vessel at McCarthy's Marina and embarked on the Cabbage Key Cruise. To make up for the lack of manatees the previous day, we were treated to a dazzling display of acrobatics along the side of the ship by a pair of dolphins.
'Make as much noise as you can,' the captain advised on the loudspeaker, 'and they'll keep showing off for you'.
When we landed at Cabbage Key pier, we headed for a quirky restaurant that inspired singer Jimmy Buffet to write Cheeseburger In Paradise.
I ordered the cheeseburger and can report it was one of the best I've ever had.
Our host Ray Sarracino explained the restaurant was once owned Mary Roberts Rinehart, a mystery novelist who first coined the phrase 'The butler did it'.
The other oddity of the Cabbage Key Inn and Restaurant is the collection of signed dollar bills taped to the walls and ceiling.
Ray told us the tradition started when fisherman signed their names on dollar bills and stuck them on the wall so they could come back and drink when they were broke. According to Ray, John F Kennedy, Ernest Hemingway and Jimmy Carter have also added dollar bills.
Upon our return to Captiva, we strolled along Andy Rosse Lane and enjoyed a cool dessert at Boop's Ice Cream Parlor and Cafe.
While enjoying a refreshing mint-flavoured milkshake, I found myself momentarily delighted about a recent law in the US reversing the ban on plastic straws. Environmental concerns aside, I'd forgotten the sheer joy of using a straw that does not disintegrate after the first drink.
That night, during dinner at Old Captiva House, part of the aforementioned 'Tween Waters Island Resort, our host Tony Lapi regaled us with stories from his 50 years at Sanibel-Captiva Beach Resorts.
'I came here when I was 26 and we survived Irma in 2017, Michael in 2018, Lorenzo in 2019 and Ian in 2022,' he said.
Sanibel Island and Captiva bore the brunt of Hurricane Ian, he said, but the community survived it and rebuilt.
But Tony and the rest of the community want the world to know this awe-inspiring destination is now bigger and better than ever.
Home to Over 35,000 Acres of Protected Land
Thanks to the Lee County Conservation 20/20 programme, Fort Myers offers travellers access to more than 35,000 acres of untouched preserves, making it a haven for eco-conscious explorers and one of Florida's standout destinations for sustainable, nature-led adventures.
Sanibel's Shell Museum – A One-of-a-Kind US Experience
Sanibel Island is home to the only museum in the US solely dedicated to shells and the marine creatures that inhabit them. This offbeat gem blends science and art, offering travellers a uniquely immersive look at coastal life not found anywhere else in the country.
Visitors will also explore a new art exhibition launched this year, showcasing stunning works that celebrate the natural beauty of the area. Additionally, guests can observe the mesmerising on-site octopus and get hands-on at the museum's two large interactive touch pools, all under the professional guidance of marine life experts.
Cape Coral's Canal Network
With more miles of canals than Venice in Italy, Cape Coral is quickly becoming a trending 'destination dupe' for waterway lovers, minus the European crowds.
This hidden gem is perfect for those seeking the charm of a water-bound escape, but with a laid-back, relaxed vibe.
Whether exploring canals by boat, kayaking through peaceful waterways, or simply soaking in the serene views, Cape Coral offers an unparalleled experience – with some incredible chances to spot wildlife, including manatees.
One of the Sunniest Cities in the US
Averaging 271 days of sunshine annually, Fort Myers is a year-round destination, especially appealing to travellers looking to escape Ireland's grey skies.
Whether lounging on pristine beaches, exploring vibrant neighbourhoods, or taking to the waters, Fort Myers offers the perfect sunny retreat.
Home to the Largest Undeveloped Mangroves Ecosystem in the US
Part of the largest undeveloped mangrove ecosystem in the US, J.N. 'Ding' Darling offers an immersive eco-experience for birdwatchers, nature lovers, and sustainability-focused travellers.
Spanning over 7,000 acres, it's considered one of the top bird-watching spots in the world.
Join a naturalist on a scenic journey along Wildlife Drive, where expert guidance can help you spot roseate spoonbills, ibis, and many others from among 245 different bird species, along with dozens of mammals, reptiles, and amphibians hidden in plain sight.
HOW TO GET THERE: Travellers can fly directly from London to Tampa with British Airways and Virgin Atlantic. Other airlines offer flights from Dublin to Tampa via various US airports. Some might consider this the best option because of the US pre-clearance facility at Dublin Airport. Neither Gatwick nor Heathrow offers this facility. On arrival at Tampa, it's a two-and-a-half hour drive to Fort Myers.
WHERE TO STAY: The Luminary - bookable at Price per night: starting rate is $195 (approximately €166)
Sundial Beach Resort & Spa - bookable at Price per night: starting rate is $250 (approximately €213)
FOR MORE: Check out the Visit Fort Myers website.
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