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French bean and rocket side salad with Old Winchester
French bean and rocket side salad with Old Winchester

Telegraph

time26-06-2025

  • General
  • Telegraph

French bean and rocket side salad with Old Winchester

French beans (or bobby beans as I call them) make a brilliantly simple salad – even just boiled and tossed with chopped shallots and a punchy mustard vinaigrette. I've used Old Winchester here, a fantastic hard cheese made by Lyburn Farm in Salisbury. It's a bit like an aged Gouda or Parmesan – nutty, savoury and full of flavour. But if you can't get your hands on it, don't worry – any good hard cheese will do the job nicely.

5 vineyard restaurants to visit in England
5 vineyard restaurants to visit in England

Yahoo

time09-06-2025

  • Yahoo

5 vineyard restaurants to visit in England

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In the UK's dynamic wine scene, seasonally led vineyard restaurants are becoming as much of a draw as the wine itself, ideal for languid summer afternoons. Here are five of the best to whet your appetite — from Michelin-starred venues getting creative with locally foraged ingredients to an East Sussex hotspot where wood-wired pizzas are paired with the perfect natural wine. Operating since 1952, Hambledon is the UK's oldest commercial winery. Its award-winning sparkling wines include the classic cuvee and, new for 2025, its first blanc de blancs. There's a beautiful tasting room and the new restaurant is already a destination in its own right; overseen by head chef Nick Edgar, seasonal menus feature chalk stream trout with watercress, best end of lamb or Old Winchester cheese souffle. Blending his South African heritage with classic European cooking, executive chef Jean Delport has helped Interlude, the elegant restaurant with rooms at the heart of the Leonardslee Estate, earn both a Michelin star and Michelin Green star. Foraged ingredients from the local landscape include wild garlic, bracken fiddleheads and hazelnuts, while the estate rears its own venison. Sip and overlook the vines at this rooftop bistro-terrace above Chapel Down's tasting room. Two AA Rosettes have been awarded for British-Mediterranean dishes, which are paired with feted wines from the 1,000-acre estate. Seasonality reigns and the menu might include Romney Marsh lamb with Moroccan mint yoghurt that sings when accompanied by a 2022 bacchus from Chapel Down's Kit's Coty North Downs vineyard. A glass of the rosé brut pairs well with the Kent rhubarb parfait. Founded in the 1980s, Sharpham Wine has recently shifted its focus to low-intervention wines. Set on the Sandridge Barton estate, the winery is home to rustic-chic tasting barns and a restaurant in the old milking parlour with a menu centered on Devon produce. Try the likes of estate beef fillet, red chicory and anchoiade, or a range of Sharpham cheeses, perfect with its medal-winning pinot noir. Tillingham has made a name for itself (and earned a Michelin Green star) thanks to its biodynamic approach to viticulture and bucolic setting in the Sussex High Weald. At the estate complex, flavourful natural wines sit alongside wood-fired pizzas and the likes of goat's cheese mousse with charred peach, seared local scallops with black pudding crumb, and Pevensey lamb rump. There are stylish bedrooms in a converted hop barn as well as bell tents in the summer. Published in Issue 28 (summer 2025) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK).To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).

5 vineyard restaurants to visit in England
5 vineyard restaurants to visit in England

National Geographic

time09-06-2025

  • National Geographic

5 vineyard restaurants to visit in England

This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). In the UK's dynamic wine scene, seasonally led vineyard restaurants are becoming as much of a draw as the wine itself, ideal for languid summer afternoons. Here are five of the best to whet your appetite — from Michelin-starred venues getting creative with locally foraged ingredients to an East Sussex hotspot where wood-wired pizzas are paired with the perfect natural wine. 1. Hambledon Vineyard, Hampshire Operating since 1952, Hambledon is the UK's oldest commercial winery. Its award-winning sparkling wines include the classic cuvee and, new for 2025, its first blanc de blancs. There's a beautiful tasting room and the new restaurant is already a destination in its own right; overseen by head chef Nick Edgar, seasonal menus feature chalk stream trout with watercress, best end of lamb or Old Winchester cheese souffle. 2. Restaurant Interlude, West Sussex Blending his South African heritage with classic European cooking, executive chef Jean Delport has helped Interlude, the elegant restaurant with rooms at the heart of the Leonardslee Estate, earn both a Michelin star and Michelin Green star. Foraged ingredients from the local landscape include wild garlic, bracken fiddleheads and hazelnuts, while the estate rears its own venison. Executive chef Jean Delport has helped Restaurant Interlude earn both a Michelin star and Michelin Green star. Photograph by Expozure Photography 3. The Swan, Kent Sip and overlook the vines at this rooftop bistro-terrace above Chapel Down's tasting room. Two AA Rosettes have been awarded for British-Mediterranean dishes, which are paired with feted wines from the 1,000-acre estate. Seasonality reigns and the menu might include Romney Marsh lamb with Moroccan mint yoghurt that sings when accompanied by a 2022 bacchus from Chapel Down's Kit's Coty North Downs vineyard. A glass of the rosé brut pairs well with the Kent rhubarb parfait. 4. Sandridge Barton, Devon Founded in the 1980s, Sharpham Wine has recently shifted its focus to low-intervention wines. Set on the Sandridge Barton estate, the winery is home to rustic-chic tasting barns and a restaurant in the old milking parlour with a menu centered on Devon produce. Try the likes of estate beef fillet, red chicory and anchoiade, or a range of Sharpham cheeses, perfect with its medal-winning pinot noir. Thanks to its biodynamic approach to viticulture and bucolic setting in the Sussex High Weald, Tillingham has earned a Michelin Green Star. Photograph by Alice Denny 5. Tillingham, East Sussex Tillingham has made a name for itself (and earned a Michelin Green star) thanks to its biodynamic approach to viticulture and bucolic setting in the Sussex High Weald. At the estate complex, flavourful natural wines sit alongside wood-fired pizzas and the likes of goat's cheese mousse with charred peach, seared local scallops with black pudding crumb, and Pevensey lamb rump. There are stylish bedrooms in a converted hop barn as well as bell tents in the summer. Published in Issue 28 (summer 2025) of Food by National Geographic Traveller (UK). To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).

William Sitwell reviews Goat on the Roof, Newbury: ‘I miss when restaurants like this were banks'
William Sitwell reviews Goat on the Roof, Newbury: ‘I miss when restaurants like this were banks'

Telegraph

time27-03-2025

  • General
  • Telegraph

William Sitwell reviews Goat on the Roof, Newbury: ‘I miss when restaurants like this were banks'

By the little 18th-century bridge over the River Kennet in Newbury, opposite Griffins the butchers, self-proclaimed 'home of the Newbury sausage', is Goat on the Roof. It's what goats do, I suppose, when they're not perching on the sides of cliffs, eating popcorn or trip-trapping about. There's a grand arched entrance to what is an elegant townhouse building, with handsome curved windows on the ground floor, suggesting this was once a bank. It's a happy place of relaxed charm with 1950s department store decor of metal-trimmed tables and wooden chairs, and walls of a beigey yellow that slightly gives me the fear. There's a bar to sit at and a menu of what they call British tapas. I popped in to check on the veracity of Michelin which recently awarded it a Bib Gourmand, its most useful of accolades, less ruinously spendy than a star and often more reliable, promising, as with this place, 'good quality, good value cooking'. So you get dishes to share, which is what you get everywhere today. This of course gives you the chance to try lots of different things, but then you're left wondering how long it was since there were places where you could order something you wanted and it wasn't socially awkward to wish that other people's germy forks wouldn't get plunged into your fish. Back when restaurants like this were banks, I suppose. First came some fabulous fresh bread with butter made from kitchen waste (what they call 'no waste'), not as terrible as it sounds, soft and yeasty; but I did hark after those days when it wasn't compulsory to be clever with butter (back when places like this were banks…). And then a glorious dish of cheese custard, a gentle mound of cheesy softness with crunchy croutons scattered about and with some Old Winchester shavings and a throw of chopped chives. It's a great starter, a really cheering hug of a dish, one that, on a gloomy, rainy day, has the transformative power to drag anyone up from a miserable abyss. Four standard croquettes arrived along with soft strips of squid and some very good roasted potatoes, although they came with dishes of mayo and spicy mascarpone in too wasteful a quantity. There was also cabbage, under a deluge of mayo, think spilt bucket of paint, somewhere under which was some decent, rich and nicely slippery green cabbage. Dish of the day was a large, rustic layer of pork belly, with crackling shaped like thin chips on top and a green chilli salsa underneath. A dish of skate wing was great too, but lessened by an over-sharp and wet tartare sauce. And then I got depressed by a plate of flageolets. They had too much bite and the dusting of herbs on top was too thick. It almost left me coughing, so a mouthful became less a sort of Parisian bistro dream and more an escape from a burning building. I yearned for the chocolate mousse to make amends, but the two little cylinders were more pale and interesting than deeply rich and sexy. That they came bathed unnecessarily in olive oil only added to the sense of vagueness. Some of these dishes, trying a tad too hard, shared the qualities of the mystery wine: guess the grape, region and country and you get it for free. It was an interesting white, but joyless and sugar-free; a trickle of insipid precipitation in a desert. Spanish, I thought, and better used for sherry. I got the country right and they kindly removed it from the bill and gave me a wonderfully blowsy white Burgundy. Which is me all over: one long, simple quest for uncomplicated perfection.

English carbonara: A clever twist on a Roman classic
English carbonara: A clever twist on a Roman classic

The Independent

time21-02-2025

  • Entertainment
  • The Independent

English carbonara: A clever twist on a Roman classic

Tom Sellers takes the Roman classic and gives it a decidedly British accent. His 'English carbonara' swaps pecorino for the nutty tang of Old Winchester, while Cacklebean eggs and pepper dulse – a briny, umami-rich seaweed – add depth and intrigue. It's a dish that feels familiar yet fresh, simple but smart. The secret? Timing. Stirring in the egg mix off the heat is the difference between silky sauce and scrambled regret. 'English carbonara' – Cacklebean eggs, Old Winchester and pepper dulse Serves: 4 Ingredients: 240g spaghetti pasta 200ml egg mix 6g black pepper 10g Old Winchester cheese 10g pepper dulse seaweed (available at Waitrose or well-stocked grocery stores) 150g pancetta or smoked bacon For the egg mix: 1 whole egg 5 egg yolks 50ml double cream 70g Old Winchester cheese 2g black pepper 2g salt Method: 1. To make the egg mix place everything in a blender and blend until smooth. 2. Get a large pot of seasoned water and bring to the boil. 3. Start to cook your pasta. 4. In a separate pan fry some pancetta until golden then add some pepper dulse. 5. Add your cooked pasta and pull the pan off the heat and add your egg mix and mix together. Very important the pan is not too hot at this point, or you will end up with scrambled eggs. 6. Serve and grate a healthy amount of Old Winchester cheese over the top.

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