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New York Times
05-05-2025
- Entertainment
- New York Times
The Last Surrealist
It was Paris in the late 1950s, and Jean-Claude Silbermann knew where the Surrealists met every evening from 5 to 6 p.m. He waited outside Le Musset, a cafe between the Palais Royal and the Louvre, until André Breton — the writer and poet who led the fluctuating, anarchic group — emerged with about 15 of his acolytes. 'I didn't know how to do anything. I hadn't even written any poems,' Silbermann, now 90, said. 'It was ridiculous, but I went straight over to him and said: 'You are André Breton. I am Jean-Claude Silbermann. I'm a Surrealist.' At the time, and now, Silbermann thought of Surrealism as a frame of mind, a way of being in the world, and at its heart is revolt. Breton told the young man to join the nightly meetings whenever he wanted. Born in 1935 in Boulogne-Billancourt, on the western outskirts of Paris, Silbermann cut ties with his family as a teenager, leaving home to try his hand at poetry instead of joining his father's successful hat making business. 'I loved poetry since I was a little boy. At 18, I read 'Alcools,' by Guillaume Apollinaire. I opened the book, and when I closed it, the world had changed,' he told me, his French gallerist Vincent Sator, and the critic and art historian Philippe Dagen, on a recent sunny afternoon in Paris at Galerie Sator in the Marais, where some of the artist's enigmatic works hung on one wall. From the leafy suburbs of Paris, the young Silbermann traveled to Oslo and then Copenhagen, where he hitchhiked, worked on cargo boats and sometimes read palms to make a meager living. 'It was a con, but it paid for my cigarettes, my room and my food,' he said. 'It was a very pleasant life.' Back in Paris a few years later with a wife and a child, he acceded to pressure from his father to work in the family trade but was miserable with his bourgeois lifestyle. 'I gained 15 kilos in three months,' he said. 'Fifteen kilos of anxiety. Fifteen kilos of anguish.' His fateful meeting with Breton brought him back to poetry and, later, painting, both of which remain critical in life. In 2024 Dagen introduced Silbermann to Sator, whose grandmother Simone Khan was Breton's first wife. She was an active member of the Surrealists and opened her own gallery after World War II, to champion the movement's artists. And from May 8 to May 11, at the Independent Art Fair in Manhattan — just over 100 years after Breton wrote his first 'Manifesto of Surrealism' — Sator is showing Silbermann's colorful works filled with dreamlike imagery in the United States for the first time. Last fall, Silbermann's canvases, which are mounted on wood and cut into various shapes with a saw, were shown at the Pompidou's blockbuster 'Surrealism' exhibition, one of many global exhibitions to celebrate the movement's centenary. The show eschewed chronology for a spiraling maze of themes — dreams, the chimera, political monsters, the night, eros and more — that traced Surrealist tendencies all the way back to ancient Greece. 'Listen, I was very happy I was the only Surrealist alive in the exhibition. All the others were dead,' Silbermann told us in the gallery when asked what it was like to be part of a momentous historical retrospective. 'Maybe not for long, but still, I was the only one alive, and that was a lot of fun.' He insists that Surrealism — 'an attitude toward the world, not a stamp you put on a passport,' he said — is not over. The museum, the past, can only teach you so much: It is 'a great tomb, we have to do something else. Me, it's over, but the young people will interpret Surrealism in new ways,' he said humbly. 'I am the last Surrealist alive, but not the only living Surrealist.' Sator said that he will be showing 'young works,' with nearly all paintings made from 2021 to 2024. Only 'Vous Partez Déja?' ('You're already leaving?') is from earlier. That 2009 work shows a bright yellow bird, its feathers flecked with light, clutching two dusky pink and purple skulls as it takes flight. Golden foliage sprouts from the feathers atop its head. 'I have a taste for intellectual provocation,' Silbermann said. 'I never know what I'm going to do when I start working. This is not extraordinarily original. But I stop working when I don't understand it, when it escapes me. That's when I tell myself that it's over, because all of a sudden, I don't understand anything about it.' He has trouble with titles but is happy with 'You're Already Leaving?,' which he realized after it was finished must be a portrait of himself and his wife, Marijo. When I asked who the bird is, he laughed and did not answer. He and Marijo now live on the island of Port-Cros and Sannois, a Paris suburb. Sigmund Freud's theory of the unconscious has been important to Silbermann, as it was to many of his peers. He also talks about ideas like intuitive knowledge over reason, of the importance of the unknown, of being entangled in your life and art, and of having the profound desire, as well as the courage, to pursue art. 'There are better things to do with your life,' he said of his art practice, 'but I couldn't do anything else. I didn't have a choice. I had to be an artist. Surrealism is courage, fantasy, liberation, revolt.' In some works, figures move through fantastical scenes, locked in ambiguous courtship, becoming one with animals or landscapes, as in 'L'Attente et Le Moment du Fruit Orange' ('The Wait and the Moment of Orange Fruit,' 2024), or 'L'Attente et Le Moment du Blason' ('The Wait and the Moment of the Shield,' 2021-2022). Other pieces may be read as psychological stages both pained and transcendent. 'L'Attente et Le Moment de La Nuit' ('The Wait and the Moment of Night,' 2023) and 'L'Attente et Le Moment de L'Arc-En-Ciel' (The Wait and the Moment of the Rainbow,' 2022) feature writhing, nightmarish figures. 'La Nuit' is ominous, while 'L'Arc-En-Ciel' has a sense of release: The monsters take up only the lower half of the image, which is otherwise serene, with two men hovering weightlessly. These artworks appear slight from afar, but up close they possess a quiet luminosity and — even when dark — a sense of combinatorial play and tongue-in-cheek titles that also defined Silbermann's early work. In 1965, he created the centerpiece for the 11th International Exhibition of Surrealism. Entitled 'Le Consommateur' ('The Consumer'), the giant sculpture was a figure made from what he called a 'disgusting pink mattress' with a siren for its head, an open fridge for its back and a washing machine for its gut, in which daily newspapers tumbled over and over. Silbermann said that he is political in his life as a citizen, but not in his art. The stories he tells of his life bear witness to the violence and turmoil of the 20th century, and yet carry humor, amazement, modesty, optimism. He told of the French German Dadaist Hans Arp, who evaded conscription in World War I by filling in his papers with the correct details but then adding them all up in a vague column of nonsense — 'a recipe for imbecility.' To Silbermann this was not just chance or fate but play in the face of life and death. 'It's beautiful,' he said. He told of the relative of a friend in the World War II French Resistance who made a daring escape from the Gestapo. At the end of the war, Silbermann, who is Jewish, and his extended family were hiding in a house in the hills while his father served in the Resistance. German soldiers arrived and burned the house to the ground, giving the group just 10 minutes to escape. Silbermann described the fire as transfixing, Sator told me. In 1960, along with many other French intellectuals, Silbermann signed the 'Manifesto of the 121,' an open letter opposing the Algerian War, in which he refused to serve. Wracked and disoriented by the conflict, Silbermann was nearly driven to suicide, he said. He was ill for three years and couldn't write poetry any longer. At the suggestion of a friend, he began to paint. During our interview, he smiled and said it came more easily than poetry, quoting an old jazz standard: 'It don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing.' Then he adapted the sentence, perhaps so it covered the relationship between art and life: 'if you don't have this thing, you don't have anything.'
Yahoo
02-05-2025
- Yahoo
Paris is the travel hot spot for Canadians in May: Skyscanner trending destination
While Paris is on a lot of people's travel bucket list, Canadians are particularly interested in travelling to the French capital in May. Information provided to Yahoo Canada from Skyscanner revealed that there has been a 29-per-cent increase in flight bookings from Canadian cities to the destination over the last month. According to the 2025 Skyscanner Travel Trends report, 71 per cent of travellers highlighted that they particularly enjoy taking in the beauty of local gardens on vacation. Perfectly fitting for that trend, Paris has some of the best gardens in the world, including Jardin du Luxembourg, Jardin des Tuileries, and Parc des Buttes-Chaumont. Search for your next vacation on Skyscanner With Spring fully in bloom, May is a particularly beautiful time to visit Paris. There are also a number of events throughout the month, including Taste of Paris, the Saint-Germain Jazz Festival, and the beginning of the French Open for tennis fans. But aside for the season-specific highlights, Paris is largely considered one of the most beautiful cities in the world and one of the world's most visited destinations for its architecture, art and fashion. "Whether it's standing under the arches of the Palais Royal, browsing independent boutiques in Le Marais, or catching an exhibit at the Musée d'Orsay, travellers are drawn to experiences that combine beauty, history, and a sense of refinement," Laura Lindsay, Skyscanner's travel trends and destinations expert highlighted. Using Skyscanner search data, roundtrip flights from Toronto to Paris in May can currently be found for as low as $747. Flights from Vancouver to Paris start at $767, or $726 from Montreal. Check Skyscanner for up-to-date, live pricing for all flights. Search for your next vacation on Skyscanner Paris is one of the most beautiful cities to get your steps in, particularly at the the Jardin du Luxembourg. "A slow walk through the garden is one of the best ways to enjoy a sunny afternoon in Paris. Just follow the paths, take your time, and enjoy whatever you come across," Lindsay advised. "If you're visiting with kids, the toy boat rentals at the pond are a fun activity." "For adults, the shaded paths and flowerbeds are perfect for a peaceful break." A Seine River cruise is a unique way to get in your Paris sightseeing needs. "Seeing Paris from the river is a relaxing way to take in the landmarks," Lindsay stated. "You get a clear view of places like the Eiffel Tower and Notre-Dame without the crowds." "Evening cruises are especially beautiful in May. The daylight lasts longer, and the city looks golden as the sun starts to set." Of course, food is a massive draw for Paris travellers, with Marché des Enfants Rouges being a particularly must-stop location. "The food stalls serve everything from couscous to Japanese bento, and it is always buzzing," Lindsay recommended. "It is casual, budget-friendly and fun, perfect if you want a break from fancy restaurants." "Grab something delicious and enjoy it on the go or take it to a nearby square if the weather is nice." Close to the Opera Garnier, the Grands Magasins and Place Vendôme, Hotel Astra Opera is just coming off of a renovation completed in 2023. The property includes a wellness area with a pool, fitness room, sauna and a hammam. Located on the west side of the 4th arrondissement, SO/ Paris has 162 rooms and suites with the most amazing views of the Seine, the Eiffel Tower and other landmarks. The property has impressively curated art featured throughout the hotel and the popular Maison Codage Spa. When you're looking for luxury, Dorchester Collection hotels are some of our favourites. On top of that, Hôtel Plaza Athénée, famously featured on Sex and the City, is still one of the most beautiful and chicest stays in the city. With 1,900 red geraniums featured on the hotel's facade, it's a must-see in the city, even if you're not staying at the property. The hotel has the Dior Spa, in addition to its elegant guest rooms and five restaurants. View this post on Instagram A post shared by Nigel Maloney (@travelwithnige) Skyscanner has a number of features to make sure you save as much as possible on your vacation. Take advantage of the "Saved" feature. Start by browsing all the travel deals and when you see something you like, you can save it for later. Step 1: Find your flights and hotel. Step 2: Select the heart icon next to your top picks to save them for later. Make sure you're logged into your Skyscanner account. Pro tip: Download the Skyscanner app to create separate Saved lists for all the different trips you're planning. If flight costs are getting you down, there are a few things Canadian travellers can do to ensure they're getting the best deal possible for their next vacation, both on the Skyscanner platform specifically and when looking for flights more generally. Beat the crowds: For flights that are filling up fast, you'll want to make sure you're looking at the monthly view on travel search sites like Skyscanner to see the best possible option available for flight dates. Set up alerts: Prices are always changing, so if you're hoping to travel to a specific destination, or on specific dates, set up a price alert so you can be quick if a deal comes up. Skyscanner specifically has a price alerts system for any cost changes. Consider "Everywhere": If you're hoping for a new adventure, or a little rest and relaxation, but you don't have a specific destination in mind, the "Everywhere" search on Skyscanner may be your new best friend to discover the most affordable vacation destination possible. Flexible dates: There may be certain times where you need to travel for specific dates, but the best deals are really revealed when you open yourself up to some flexibility. Even changing your travel dates by a day, or a week, can result in significant savings.
Telegraph
15-04-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
The 30 best restaurants in Paris
From the bistro terraces to the ubiquitous boulangeries, Parisian life is quite literally arranged around food. Eating out is more than mere nutrition, it's a daily opportunity to enjoy the pleasures of great food and drink, and the wonderful products that French terroir has to offer. Those looking for traditional French fare will find plenty of options, from glitzy Michelin-starred restaurants set in grand hotels, to hearty local bistros serving up all the classics. But it's also an increasingly diverse restaurant scene, offering more light and even vegetarian options and cuisine from other cultures. All our recommendations below have been hand selected and tested by our resident destination expert to help you discover the best Paris restaurants. Find out more below or for further inspiration, see our guides to the city's best hotels, bars, nightlife, attractions, free things to do and shopping, plus how to spend a weekend in Paris. Find a restaurant by type: Best all rounders Best for families Best for cheap eats Best for fine dining Best for walk ins Best all rounders La Belle Epoque When former king of Parisian nightlife Franck Maillot bought this brasserie on Rue des Petits Champs, he had a pleasant surprise during the renovation when the team discovered original features from the Belle Epoque era, to which this lively address owes its name. The original mosaic floors, Deco columns and wall-mounted mirrors provide the ambiance for this sophisticated and buzzy brasserie and bar located on a quieter side street near the Louvre and Palais Royal. Young chef Mathieu Poirier works with regional suppliers to offer seasonal upscale French brasserie fare, with a lighter twist on classics like poulet fermier. There's a great selection of French wines. The vibe varies hugely from work lunches on weekdays to a real fashion crowd during Fashion Weeks. Area/neighbourhood: Louvre/Opéra Nearest metro: Pyramides Contact: Price: ££ Reservations: Recommended Café du Commerce Located on rue de commerce in the distinctly un-touristy 15th arrondissement, the elegant Café du Commerce is a favourite with Parisians. The plant-decked 1920s dining room, set across three levels, is understated yet one of the most attractive and elegant in the city, crowned in glory by a retractable glass roof. Marie and Etienne Guerraud have been at the helm since 2003 and have a rich network of French suppliers. On the menu you'll find French classics with a lighter, modern twist: think house-smoked salmon served with cream and chives to start, followed by Magret de canard and traditional brasserie desserts. Prices are very reasonable in relation to the quality of the food and the space. Aux crus de Bourgogne You can't go far wrong with this long established bistro close by to Les Halles, the home of Paris's main food market until the 1960s. Today Rue Bachaumont is in the heart of a now trendy district neighbouring chic independent shops and boutique hotels. The result is a mix of a hearty Parisian bistro – thanks to the lovingly restored 1930s décor – and a cool clientele and buzzy feel. The menu is still à l'ancienne; there's a signature pâté en croûte, plus beef tartare served with chips, followed up by something like the traditional rum baba. All of this is washed down with, as the name would suggest, a fine selection of Burgundy wines. On weekdays, the set menu for lunch offers great value. Au Père Louis Duck behind the large boulevards that enclose the Luxembourg Gardens to find Au Père Louis, a wine bar and restaurant offering a convivial and tasty helping of traditional French hospitality. In the cosy space full of nooks and crannies, you'll find more than 60 varieties of wine available by the glass and a very good quality selection of regional brasserie classics like French onion soup, Auvergne sausage or Toulouse cassoulet. There's a great selection of desserts and digestifs too, like Armagnacs and Cognacs. Service is warm and reliable. Area/neighbourhood: Saint-Germain-des-Prés Nearest metro: Odéon Contact: Price: ££ Reservations: Recommended Restaurant Bachaumont Get a taste of authentic Parisian nightlife at the vast restaurant of the trendy Hotel Bachaumont in the Sentier district. You can warm up with an excellent cocktail at the bar, before getting comfortable in one of the banquette booths that line the dining room. On the menu: outstandingly good beef steak served with mashed potatoes for carnivores or a citrus- and coconut-flavoured dahl curry for vegetarians. Desserts courtesy of Sophie Coulombel are a highlight. Expect a warm welcome and a fashionable atmosphere. It's a great spot for a date night. Café Max This hearty historic bistro served as a clandestine meeting place for the French Resistance during World War II and the name Max comes from the code name of resistance figure Jean Moulin. In recent years, it has been acquired by esteemed chef Frédéric Vardon (39V), but he has retained the old-world charm, as well as the clientele that still includes political and diplomatic types. Expect classic dishes done expertly, like eggs mimosa, sardines or even pig's ear to start, followed by steak and fish options and classic desserts like crème caramel – plus French wines to match. The feel is warm and intimate with a classic bistro aesthetic featuring a zinc counter, vintage posters and wood panelling. Area/neighbourhood: Left Bank - Invalides Nearest metro: La Tour-Maubourg Contact: Price: ££ Reservations: Recommended Le Grand Bain This laid-back neo-bistro address, serving gorgeous seasonal small plates, is well worth the trip out to the artistic Belleville quartier in the 20th arrondissement. Originally, the culinary lovechild of Brit Edward Delling-Williams and Frenchman Edouard Lax – formerly chef and front-of-house respectively at the popular Au Passage – Le Grand Bain offers an ever-changing roster of inventive delights, such as scamorza fondue with chicory, or pigeon with pointed cabbage, washed down with a selection of natural wines, served at the central bar. Bistrot Paul Bert Paris is awash with very good bistros, so it is no mean feat that Bistrot Paul Bert has over the years retained its reputation as one of the best. The menu features copious portions of French classics such as steak frites, andouillette and lemon and butter sole served with pan-fried potatoes, all done with finesse. Décor is delightfully traditional with mosaic tile floor, long banquettes and white tablecloths and a warm ambiance is to be expected. Leaving room for dessert is obligatory: try the legendary Paris-Brest – a round of pastry with delectable hazelnut praline cream in the centre. Return to index Best for families Bob's Bake Shop Parisians may be loyal to their baguettes, but the New York-style bagels in this welcoming American-owned diner have the locals flocking for breakfast and lunch, especially on the weekend when it's extra busy with young families. You can't go wrong with the signature bagels on offer – cream cheese, smoked salmon etc – or you can opt for the never-ending egg bun, filled with a deliciously runny omelette with thick-cut fried potatoes on the side. For sweet tooths, Bob offers pancake stacks, pie, muffins and donuts. Coffee is also top-notch. Breizh Café Transport yourself to a summer's day in Brittany in one of the restaurants of this small chain of gourmet creperies. Breizh (pronounced 'brez' with the raspy French r) is the Breton word for the Brittany region and on the menu you will find traditional Breton buckwheat galettes in classic varieties like the 'complète' (ham, cheese and egg) or more experimental gourmet choices using seasonal cheeses and meats. Accompany your main course with a Breizh Cola, a less saccharine cola produced in Brittany, or a delicious brut cider. For dessert, it would be rude not to order a sweet crepe filled with apple compote and salted caramel and topped with vanilla ice cream. Ground Control Not so much a restaurant as a huge food court with something to please just about every taste. Housed inside a former SNCF warehouse in the east of Paris close to the Seine, the hip venue is a favourite with locals, in particular young families who come here for the space, relaxed atmosphere and regular children's dance party events. Food-wise, you can choose between cheese boards to pizza to Indian-style street food. Natural wine and craft beers flow for the grown-ups. Area/neighbourhood: Gare de Lyon Nearest metro: Gare de Lyon Contact: Price: £ Reservations: Walk-in Étsi - le bistro This modern Greek restaurant is full most nights, and with good reason. Tucked away on a sideroad in the shadow of Montmartre, this welcoming address offers light, ingredients-led small plates to share. Choose from satisfyingly tangy vine leaves, melt-in-the-moth garlic potatoes with feta, or grilled octopus on a bed of polenta. Tasty seasonal desserts round it off and well chosen Greek wines finish the offering. Sister restaurant étsi - l'ouzeri is nearby. Area/neighbourhood: Montmartre Nearest metro: Lamarck - Caulaincourt Contact: Price: ££ Reservations: Recommended L'Européen L'Euorpéen is a great address for a traditional Parisian brasserie experience. The décor is gorgeous, harking back to the restaurant's Belle Epoque beginnings - it's all mirrors, chandeliers and Chesterfield-style banquette. The food on offer is just as delightful. As well as great brasserie fare (snails, beef tartare, crème brûlée etc.), it is known for its fabulous seafood, served on extravagant multi-level platters. Slurp on Normandy oysters and savour the subtle flavours of welks served with aioli. The location right by Gare de Lyon makes this a great pitstop if you are taking a train down to the south of France. Area/neighbourhood: Gare de Lyon Nearest metro: Gare de Lyon Contact: Price: ££ Reservations: Recommended Return to index Best for cheap eats L'As du Fallafel Rue des rosiers, the charming cobbled seam of the historic Jewish quarter, the Pletzl, is dotted with fashion boutiques, vintage shops and charming Kosher bakeries, as well as glorious-smelling street falafel joints, of which L'As was the first and is still by far the most popular. On any given day (apart from Friday evening and Saturday morning when it is closed) you will see throngs of locals and visitors alike queuing up to get the signature tubby pita, stuffed with falafels, roasted aubergine and cabbage and some of the best spicy harissa you've ever had – it's well worth the wait. Area/neighbourhood: Marais Nearest metro: Saint-Paul Contact: Price: £ Reservations: Walk-ins or takeaway Jay's Pizza There's no shortage of pizza joints in Paris, but there are a precious few selling the dish New York style by the slice – and even fewer that are as good as Jay's. Opened in 2024, this small takeaway shop quickly became a hit, attracting queues come lunch time in the hip Strasbourg Saint-Denis neighbourhood. For 10 euros you can choose two slices and a drink, to takeaway or gobble at the few tables at the venue. The classic margherita and pepperoni slices are exemplary. Area/neighbourhood: Strasbourg - Saint-Denis Nearest metro: Strasbourg - Saint-Denis Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: No reservations Bouillon Chartier This fabulous Art Nouveau cantine may be a legendary Parisian institution, but it's anything but snooty. The popular eatery started life as a workers' café at the turn of the 20th century, offering hearty fare from the regions of France, like snails, eggs mayonnaise, roast chicken and profiteroles. The menu has changed little over the years and it is still one of the most affordable meals in Paris. Hurried waiters dressed in traditional black waistcoats and white aprons zip around the dining tables, dispensing menu advice and banter and scribbling the customers' orders on the paper tablecloths. You can't reserve a table, instead diners are asked to queue, head early in the evening to avoid a longer wait. Area/neighbourhood: Grands Boulevards Nearest metro: Grands Boulevards Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: No reservations Land & Monkeys A riddle: how can it be that French people are purists when it comes to their beloved pastry, yet Parisians queue to get their hands on vegan patisserie? The answer is the quality of this small offshoot chain of the baker's Maison Landemaine, specialising entirely in vegan treats. Stop by to sample the pillowy brioche, the pleasingly sticky cinnamon bun or the exquisite tarts. The bread is top-notch, too. Area/neighbourhood: Various (Montmartre, Marais, Bastille) Nearest metro: Various Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: No reservations Higuma There's no shortage of Japanese restaurants along central Rue Saint-Anne, known for Japanese and Korean cuisine, but this one has maintained a strong following over the years for its excellent ramen, prepared with aplomb in front of you (get a seat at the counter for the best view). Choose from 10 different ramen varieties featuring pleasingly glossy broth and wonderfully tender noodles. Donburi and katsu curry complement the offering. Wash it down with an Asahi beer. Note: few options for vegetarians. Area/neighbourhood: Louvre/Opéra Nearest metro: Pyamides Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: No reservations Chez Gladines This old-fashioned eatery serving traditional Basque food is a mainstay of the villagey Butte aux Cailles neighbourhood on the Left Bank. Expect a hearty atmosphere – chequered tablecloths and generous portions and a lively buzz, especially on weekends. Signature dishes showcase the rich, often meat-heavy cuisine of south-western France – try the 'escalope montagnarde', a veal scallop slathered in cantal cheese, served with creamy mushrooms and fried potatoes. Basque wine flows to accompany your meal. Return to index Best for fine dining Pur' The gastronomic restaurant at the Park Hyatt Paris-Vendôme has had a slinky makeover (think dark wood and dimmed lighting) courtesy of Franco-Mexican designer Hugo Toro. Inside, the Michelin-starred cuisine, prepared in front of you in the open kitchen, is as exceptional as ever; it's a fine choice for an upscale treat. The refined tasting menu uses meticulously sourced mostly French ingredients worked in unexpected and exciting ways. To start, you might have sweetcorn ice cream with a polenta and parmesan tuile or an ingenious Provence tomato 'Bloody Mary' soup, followed by white truffle ravioli. Desserts are overseen by world-class patissière Narae Kim, named pastry chef of the year in 2024 by Gault&Millau. Area/neighbourhood: Opéra Nearest metro: Opéra Contact: Prices: £££ Reservations: Essential Le 39v This refined but relaxed restaurant is located on the top floor of a building at number 39 on the prestigious Avenue George V, right in the heart of the high-end area known as the 'Golden Triangle', and is accessible by its own private elevator. Suppliers for the carnivorous French menu are chosen by the talented but affable chef Frédéric Vardon, who is passionate about showcasing French 'terroir'. In the indulgent dinner menu you'll find options from the light (braised seasonal vegetables) to full-on meat feasts such as steak or roast pigeon. You can watch the busy team of chefs at work from the glass-walled dining room which overlooks the kitchen on the other side of an interior courtyard — the sides are separated by a roof garden featuring an olive tree, seemingly suspended in space six floors up. Café de la Paix Occupying a whole city block in the shadow of the Palais Garnier opera house, Café de la Paix offers grand old-school Parisian dining par excellence. The restaurant opened in the 1860s and is one of the French capital's most iconic dining spots, once frequented by the likes of Emile Zola, Oscar Wilde and Ernest Hemingway. The menu offers French gourmet classics — think luxurious seafood platters piled high with oysters and prawns, or steak served with green beans and puréed potatoes. There's décor to match in the opulent restored Second Empire dining room. Area/neighbourhood: Opéra Nearest metro: Opéra Contact: Prices: £££ Reservations: Recommended Bar Vendôme, the Ritz This restaurant located inside the Ritz Paris calls itself a 'brasserie', but this is no neighbourhood affair. Seasonal French classics are served up in the beautiful glass-roofed summer house with a view out onto the ornate hotel gardens. Expect top-notch versions of roast chicken, sole meunière with creamy mashed potato or Normandy beef with roast potato. For dessert, you can choose from a selection of pastries by the hotel's celebrated pastry chef Francois Perret: try his signature chestnut madeleine for your very own Proustian experience. By the way, these desserts are on offer along with gourmet sandwiches at Ritz Le Comptoir, a sort of 'street food' offering located just behind the hotel on Rue Cambon. La Condesa The discreet entrance of this restaurant just below Pigalle belies a refined address offering a creative and memorable dining experience, recognised with one Michelin Star. Mexican chef Indra Carrillo Perea, who has previously worked in Japan and Italy, expertly blends flavours, textures and ingredients from all these cultures to create a refined gastronomic offering: think pollack marinated in soya served with delicately braised Brussels sprouts and wildflowers, an exquisitely clear mushroom broth or vegetables prepared give ways. The space is elegant, adorned with red marble and mid-century-style wood panelling, plus eccentric touches like the personal cutlery drawer and the waiters' elaborate trolleys. You can opt for the full blow-out 8-course dinner menu (a tidy 180 euros per person excluding wine), or else go for the more approachable lunch menu. Area/neighbourhood: South Pigalle Nearest metro: Notre-Dame-de-Lorette Contact: Prices: £££ Reservations: Recommended 114 Faubourg Housed inside one of Paris's grandest Palace hotels, Le Bristol, 114 Faubourg offers luxury brasserie fare par excellence. Since executive chef Arnaud Faye took the helm in 2024, the dining room buzzes with new energy and serves up increasingly inventive flavour combinations. The sole 'à la plancha', served with capers and lashings of peppery olive oil, is particularly excellent. Wonderfully done classic desserts complete the meal (try the millefeuille). Wine pairings can be added. Expect flawless service. Return to index Best for walk ins L'Avant Comptoir The wildly popular Le Comptoir gastronomic restaurant by Yves Camdeborde is just next door and is almost always booked months in advance. But you can get a great taste of the produce-first offering at the dinky bars next door: the Avant Comptoir de la Terre (more meat specialties) and the Avant Comptoir de la mer (more seafood). Prop yourself up at the lively bar and enjoy reasonably priced French small plates, like mackerel with grapefruit and horseradish and the pork trotter terrine. There's a great selection of French wines on offer to accompany, from €3 to €20 per glass. Area/neighbourhood: Saint-Germain-des-Prés Nearest metro: Opéra Contact: Prices: £ Reservations: No reservations Chez Omar Chez Omar is nothing short of a local institution on Rue de Bretagne in the lively Upper Marais district. It's known for its friendly waiters, traditional vintage bistro décor (think banquette, bevelled mirrors and grand central counter) and generous servings of North African couscous. The atmosphere is invariably relaxed (and also family-friendly) and the service charming. Vegetarians can take the vegetable stew, which can be spiced up with the harissa; meat-eaters love the North African merguez sausage made from lamb meat. There are also some French classics on offer like steak and chips. Do like the locals and get chips on the side of your couscous! Wine is inexpensive and available by the glass. For afters there are North African pastries and mint tea. Saravanaa Bhavan If you find yourself with a rumbling stomach and time to spare near Gare du Nord (waiting for your train, for example), you would be wise to avoid the rather underwhelming bistros that line the streets around the front of the station and head instead to Rue du Faubourg Saint-Denis along the side of the station where you'll find yourself on the edge of Paris's Indian, Pakistani and Sri Lankan area. Among many great vegetarian canteen-style restaurants, Saravanan Bhavan is an extra popular favourite thanks to its delicious selection of South Indian cuisine, including excellent dosa. The perfect light lunch before or after your train. Area/neighbourhood: Gare du Nord - La Chapelle Nearest metro: Gare du Nord Contact: 00 33 1 40 05 01 01; open 10am to 11pm 7 days a week Prices: £ Reservations: No reservations needed Les Philosophes The jovial Xavier Denamur is at the helm of a clutch of much loved bistros on Rue Vielle du Temple, a lively strip in the buzzy Marais district. The chef is passionate about using local and seasonal ingredients to create quality dishes. Les Philosophes is a neighbourhood staple and serves an impressive selection of French dishes for lunch and dinner, from traditional meaty fare like boeuf bourguignon to lighter vegetarian options. It's a lively spot in the evening with friendly service. Xavier Denamur also owns brasseries Au Petit Fer à Cheval just next door with its horseshoe-shaped bar, La Chaise au Plafond and the wine bar meets bookshop La Belle Hortense, just across the street. Area/neighbourhood: Marais Nearest metro: Saint-Paul Contact: Price: ££ Reservations: Walk-ins only Tae Dong Gwan Rue Saint-Anne, tucked discreetly between the Louvre and Palais Garnier opera house, is known for its cluster of Japanese and Korean restaurants. Among them, this cosy and buzzy Korean address is a firm favourite. Whether you're stopping in for lunch or a casual dinner, expect quick, efficient service and most importantly truly scrumptious food – from the slurp-worthy seafood soups to the thoughtfully prepared bibimbap. Add plenty of the hot sauce for extra punch. Area/neighbourhood: Louvre Nearest metro: Pyramides Contact: Price: ££ Reservations: Walk ins only Return to index How we choose Every restaurant in this curated list has been tried and tested by our destination expert, who has visited to provide you with their insider perspective. We cover a range of budgets, from neighbourhood favourites to Michelin-starred restaurants – to best suit every type of traveller's taste – and consider the food, service, best tables, atmosphere and price in our recommendations. We update this list regularly to keep up with the latest opening and provide up to date recommendations. About our expert Hannah, originally from London, spent years working out the intricacies of French grammar before moving to Paris, where she works as a journalist specialising in French culture and society. She enjoys cycling Paris's avenues and boulevards on her trusty bike, eavesdropping in café terrasses and visiting the weekly flea market at her local, Puces de Saint-Ouen.
