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From trotters to tripe, offal gets an upscale makeover
From trotters to tripe, offal gets an upscale makeover

Mint

time2 days ago

  • Mint

From trotters to tripe, offal gets an upscale makeover

Rituparna Roy Borne out of necessity, nose-to-tail eating as a culinary practice traces its roots to ancient civilisations. The dishes and their fascinating stories are inspiring chefs to reinterpret them for the modern diner, be it from personal memories or research trips across the country 'Dohjem' liver pâté by Tanisha Phanbuh; (right) 'Golda chingri ghilu' hollandaise at Sienna. Gift this article Bengali mothers are adept at coaxing their children into eating every part of the fish. 'Chew the heads, they're good for you", 'eat the tel (innards), they are delicious", 'don't discard the skins, they have good fats", and so on. 'My mother cooks macher tel like a mishmash with vegetables, and it's something I cannot have enough of even today," says head chef Avinandan Kundu, who reimagines his mother's recipe in the form of dolma, the stuffed leaf parcels believed to have originated during the Ottoman times, at Sienna in Kolkata. The restaurant, known for its playful approach to Bengal's diverse food culture, offers small plates and bar bites featuring fish and meat offal. Bengali mothers are adept at coaxing their children into eating every part of the fish. 'Chew the heads, they're good for you", 'eat the tel (innards), they are delicious", 'don't discard the skins, they have good fats", and so on. 'My mother cooks macher tel like a mishmash with vegetables, and it's something I cannot have enough of even today," says head chef Avinandan Kundu, who reimagines his mother's recipe in the form of dolma, the stuffed leaf parcels believed to have originated during the Ottoman times, at Sienna in Kolkata. The restaurant, known for its playful approach to Bengal's diverse food culture, offers small plates and bar bites featuring fish and meat offal. Borne out of necessity, nose-to-tail eating as a culinary practice traces its roots to ancient civilisations. In India, it is prevalent across various communities with home cooks displaying their ingenuity via recipes passed down through generations. While offal is treated as a delicacy among many cultures, it often gets a bad rap here, primarily because of taste, texture and cultural stigma. The dishes and their fascinating stories are now inspiring chefs to reinterpret them for the modern diner, be it from memory or research trips across the country. Also Read | Hearts and guts In Mumbai, chef Varun Totlani makes a bone marrow dish spiced with fiery thecha at the cocktail bar Paradox. The theatrics involve guests scooping the marrow out of a buff shank bone that has been cut length-wise. 'While bheja is more acceptable because of its creamy texture, offal or organ meats as a category require a fair amount of work in fine dining," he says. 'Thecha' spiced bone marrow at Paradox, Kundu believes in making his food accessible, but not appropriating it. 'The idea is to showcase the nose-to-tail eating culture in Bengal, but also respect the base ingredient. Although Bengalis in Kolkata are not that experimental, the perception is slowly changing," he says. The team also brings in personal stories of eating offal. 'We all have that one memory of standing with our plates at weddings, contemplating whether to suck out the ghilu (brain matter) from the golda chingri (large freshwater prawns)," he says. At the restaurant, they turn it into a hollandaise, put it back into the prawn heads, grill and serve it with chimichurri. It's a favourite, so are the charred chicken gizzards, and chilli garlic bheja. At Naar, chef Prateek Sadhu's 16-seater restaurant near Kasauli, the menu is built on four pillars that define Himalayan cuisine, and nose-to-tail eating is one of them (apart from foraging, migration and preservation). He serves a dish featuring Ladakhi gyurma or blood sausages in a silken broth along with sunderkala, a type of hand-rolled millet noodles from Uttarakhand. While in the National Capital Region, Khasi pop-up chef Tanisha Phanbuh reimagines Meghalaya's classic pork brain salad doh khlieh in the form of crostinis and dohjem, traditionally made of pork intestines and belly, as pâté. 'Working with offal can be a task in Delhi given sourcing off-cuts can be a challenge," says Phanbuh, who has hosted pop-ups at Fig & Maple restaurant and Pullman Hotel in the past under her brand 'Tribal Gourmet'. Liver from the tapas menu at Ekaa. What excites chefs about offal is the ability to work with various forms and textures. 'Every offal behaves differently at a given temperature. Some can be paste-y, or crunchy like pork ears, and then there is brain, which are like these orbs of buttery ooziness," says chef-partner Niyati Rao of Ekaa in Mumbai. The restaurant has a dish of pork mince using the heart and liver to go with the Sikkimese tingmo bread. 'We take a lot of care to process the offal, with the right kind of spices and techniques, which people finally end up enjoying," she says. At Bombay Daak, her team does a version of Hyderabadi chakna, which is locally prepared with goat tripe, and a bheja dish cooked with anishi, the prized fermented taro leaf cakes from Nagaland. Inspiration also comes from the comfort and familiarity associated with the ingredient. 'If you have grown up eating offal, you instinctively understand the appeal. For me, it was never considered unusual or exotic," says chef Hussain Shahzad, who believes in highlighting its potential with thoughtful technique. On the Papa's Mumbai menu, he combines lamb tongue, brain, as well as shoulder, neck, and belly to make a French-style terrine, and plates it up with nihari sauce made from lamb trotters and neck bones. 'Some come seeking these dishes, others need a little nudge." Lamb terrine with 'nihari' sauce at Papa's. In Himalayan households, harvesting an animal means letting go of a valuable farm asset. 'This nose-to-tail approach is deeply rooted in both necessity and respect," says chef Prakriti Lama, who runs the Himalayan-inspired restaurant Across with her husband chef Viraf Patel in Mumbai. The menu has tripe, slow braised with mountain spices such as timur or Himalayan peppercorns, chillies, and foraged herbs like jimbu, but plated with finesse, and pork trotters, 'which have unexpectedly become a guest favourite for their gelatinous texture and deep flavour." The couple consults with restaurants and hosts pop-ups across India, and are proud to have introduced offal into menus, be it as bar snacks or elaborate mains. While chefs believe technique and storytelling can shift diners' reactions, it is exciting to find offal being appreciated for its place in India's food heritage, and that it is no longer disguised but celebrated for its complexity. Also Read | Guts, hearts and lungs in Sicily Topics You May Be Interested In

It's a Paradox. Trump Tower developer rebrands Sydney's Radisson
It's a Paradox. Trump Tower developer rebrands Sydney's Radisson

The Age

time19-06-2025

  • Business
  • The Age

It's a Paradox. Trump Tower developer rebrands Sydney's Radisson

Capital gain Sydney's historic Radisson Blu Plaza hotel, which was the original home of publisher John Fairfax & Sons, is being rebranded under the Paradox chain. It will be the first Paradox hotel in the country. The brand is run by Macquarie University graduate and Canada's Trump Tower developer, Tiah Joo Kim. The sandstone building at 27 O'Connell Street which covers the block to Pitt Street was built in 1856. After the Fairfax business vacated, it served as the Bank of New South Wales, then as a Westpac Bank before beginning its life in hospitality as the five-star Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel in 2000. Malaysian-based TA Global has owned the property since 1997 and plans to expand the Paradox brand around the world. The group is run by one of Malaysia's richest families and has a global portfolio of hotels in five countries including Canada, Singapore, China and Thailand. Joo Kim was appointed chief executive at just 36, overseeing the company's portfolio, including the development of Canada's then Trump International Hotel and Tower in Vancouver. The rebrand will start on July 1 under the guardianship of the hotel's long-standing general manager Peter Tudehope, who is the former chairman of Tourism Accommodation Australia NSW. Farm sale

It's a Paradox. Trump Tower developer rebrands Sydney's Radisson
It's a Paradox. Trump Tower developer rebrands Sydney's Radisson

Sydney Morning Herald

time19-06-2025

  • Business
  • Sydney Morning Herald

It's a Paradox. Trump Tower developer rebrands Sydney's Radisson

Capital gain Sydney's historic Radisson Blu Plaza hotel, which was the original home of publisher John Fairfax & Sons, is being rebranded under the Paradox chain. It will be the first Paradox hotel in the country. The brand is run by Macquarie University graduate and Canada's Trump Tower developer, Tiah Joo Kim. The sandstone building at 27 O'Connell Street which covers the block to Pitt Street was built in 1856. After the Fairfax business vacated, it served as the Bank of New South Wales, then as a Westpac Bank before beginning its life in hospitality as the five-star Radisson Blu Plaza Hotel in 2000. Malaysian-based TA Global has owned the property since 1997 and plans to expand the Paradox brand around the world. The group is run by one of Malaysia's richest families and has a global portfolio of hotels in five countries including Canada, Singapore, China and Thailand. Joo Kim was appointed chief executive at just 36, overseeing the company's portfolio, including the development of Canada's then Trump International Hotel and Tower in Vancouver. The rebrand will start on July 1 under the guardianship of the hotel's long-standing general manager Peter Tudehope, who is the former chairman of Tourism Accommodation Australia NSW. Farm sale

A focused start to your week: avoiding the Productivity Paradox
A focused start to your week: avoiding the Productivity Paradox

The Citizen

time16-06-2025

  • Business
  • The Citizen

A focused start to your week: avoiding the Productivity Paradox

In today's fast-paced world, it's easy to mistake being busy with being productive. A busy calendar, a lengthy to-do list, and continual activity are often associated with success. If we are always 'doing', we feel accomplished -at least in the moment. This is what's known as the Productivity Paradox. The productivity paradox is the frustration of working long hours and putting in a lot of effort, only to find that you've made little real progress toward your goals. To break free from this cycle, we need to distinguish between busyness and true productivity. Being busy means being occupied with tasks and constant motion while being productive means achieving meaningful results and making consistent progress toward your goals. It's about working smarter, not necessarily harder. The problem with busyness is that it often comes at the expense of focus and prioritization. When we juggle too many tasks at once, our attention becomes scattered, and we struggle to commit to any single task fully. Additionally, constant busyness can lead to burnout and exhaustion, particularly when self-care is neglected. How to avoid the Productivity Paradox this week Try these practical steps: Write down three meaningful outcomes you want to achieve by Friday — not just tasks, but actual results. Ask yourself daily: Am I making progress toward those outcomes? Don't aim to do more. Aim to do more of what matters. Avoid multitasking. It decreases efficiency and increases the likelihood of mistakes. Say no when needed. Overcommitting drains time and energy from what truly matters to you. Prioritise tasks based on urgency and importance, and tackle them accordingly. Set clear goals. Use the SMART framework: Specific, Measurable, Achievable, Relevant, and Time-bound. Finally, amid all your work commitments, remember to take care of yourself. Step away from your desk, practice mindfulness, eat well, and maintain a life outside of work to recharge. The news provided to you in this link has been investigated and compiled by the editorial staff of the Newcastle Advertiser, a sold newspaper distributed in the Newcastle area. Please follow us on Youtube and feel free to like, comment, and subscribe. For more local news, visit our webpage, follow us on Facebook and Twitter, and request an add on our WhatsApp (082 874 5550). At Caxton, we employ humans to generate daily fresh news, not AI intervention. Happy reading!

GOT7 member Jackson Wang calls Hrithik Roshan a 'legendary icon', hints at possible future collaboration
GOT7 member Jackson Wang calls Hrithik Roshan a 'legendary icon', hints at possible future collaboration

Mint

time15-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Mint

GOT7 member Jackson Wang calls Hrithik Roshan a 'legendary icon', hints at possible future collaboration

International rapper Jackson Wang has opened up about his friendship with Bollywood star Hrithik Roshan, calling him a 'legendary icon' and speaking warmly about their bond. In a recent conversation with PTI, Wang shared that when the two meet, they rarely talk about work. 'When we're together, especially Hrithik and I, we don't talk about work. We're just humans,' he said, adding that their interactions are more personal than professional. The rapper, known for his performances and global fanbase, also spoke about the respect he has for Hrithik. 'I'm a big fan of him. He shows me a lot of love, and I appreciate him as a senior, as a legendary icon,' he said. Jackson Wang on his collab with Hrithik Although no project is officially confirmed, Wang did not rule out the possibility of teaming up with Hrithik in the future. 'We never know when it happens. It probably will happen,' he added, leaving fans hopeful for a collaboration between the two stars. Jackson Wang also recently collaborated with Punjabi singer and actor Diljit Dosanjh in their track 'Buck'. Still, the meeting of such high-profile artists has sparked excitement among fans in India and beyond. According to various news outlets, Jackson is also set to host a grand party in Mumbai, which will see the likes of celebrities like Hrithik Roshan, Nushrratt Bharuccha, Kajal Aggarwal, Aastha Gill, Stebin Ben, Paradox, Natasha Stankovic, Shilpa Rao, Meet Bros, Seema Sajdeh, and Sunny Leone. With the music and film industries becoming more global than ever, a crossover between Jackson Wang and Indian stars like Hrithik Roshan could be just around the corner. Until then, fans will have to wait and watch as this budding friendship unfolds into something creative.

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