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Caught in the contest between China and the west, the Cook Islands asks where its future lies
Caught in the contest between China and the west, the Cook Islands asks where its future lies

The Guardian

time2 days ago

  • Business
  • The Guardian

Caught in the contest between China and the west, the Cook Islands asks where its future lies

On a remote stretch of land in the Cook Islands lies a second world war airstrip. Once used as a wartime supply route by American forces, the narrow runway is in dire need of resealing to allow larger tourist jets to land. Leaders on the northern island of Penrhyn have asked New Zealand, Australia and the US to help, but none have come through. Now, they hope China will step in and fund it. 'That is the dream,' says Penrhyn's executive director, Puna John Vano. 'We want to maintain our traditional partners, but if not, we're going to get assistance from elsewhere.' Funding for the airstrip is a symbol of a wider struggle unfolding in the Cook Islands, a new front in the contest between China and the west in the Pacific. The country of about 17,000 people has seen ties with its biggest ally and former colonial partner New Zealand fray as leaders draw it closer to Beijing. On the Cook Islands' main island of Rarotonga, many people are angry over the damage caused to relations with New Zealand. The Cook Islands struck major deals with China earlier this year for economic and other kinds of cooperation, sparking a diplomatic row with Wellington over a lack of consultation. Cook Islands operates in 'free association' New Zealand and while it governs its own affairs, Wellington provides assistance including in foreign affairs and defence. Tensions escalated and last month New Zealand abruptly cut off millions of dollars in critical aid and funding. Penrhyn island's executive director, Puna John Vano, says 'we're going to get assistance from elsewhere' if it doesn't come from customary partners. Now, the path ahead is unclear. On the country's main island, Rarotonga, many are angry over the damage caused to relations with New Zealand. Some welcome more Chinese investment but others raise questions over what it will bring. The Cook Islands prime minister, Mark Brown, and his government declined requests for an interview. But others, such as the opposition leader, Tina Browne, were vocal in their criticism of Beijing building its influence in the Cook Islands. 'China frightens me. Its involvement with my country scares me a bit,' Browne says. 'You have this big power and small, small us. What sort of voice would we have?' Rarotonga is a tourism hub and home to nearly three-quarters of the Cook Islands' population. The place is small enough to circle by motorbike in under an hour. In the sleepy seaside town, one of the main attractions is standing at the seawall to watch planes land. Opposition leader Tina Browne fears the Cook Islands will 'be swallowed up in China's money.' Many here share Browne's concerns over China, particularly as it begins to put pressure on the country's longstanding ties with New Zealand. This relationship is overwhelmingly popular – its citizens hold New Zealand citizenship. Cook Islanders have access to healthcare and employment opportunities in New Zealand. Fruit and vegetable seller Teremoana Napa spent 40 years living and working in New Zealand before returning to the Cook Islands. She is now on New Zealand's pension. 'The New Zealand passport gives us so much,' she says. 'We don't want a Cook Islands passport, that's a bloody dead-end passport.' Rarotonga's economy is heavily influenced by tourism, fishing revenue and the rising cost of imports. Others share concern over the loss of crucial aid from Wellington. Outside the country's main hospital, Calais Ngatan helps his heavily pregnant wife to the car. The young man fears what New Zealand's funding cuts will mean for the islands' already stretched healthcare system. New Zealand's NZ$18.2m budget support – which is tied up in the freeze – supports education, healthcare and other critical services. 'Our government decided to sign a contract with China,' Ngatan says. 'So it's limiting our resources over here.' He says he 'feels robbed' by China 'taking everything from us'. 'If we cut ties with New Zealand, it also cuts ties with all the tourists that are coming from overseas,' he says. 'That will be a big problem for us, because that's how we survive.' Watching planes land is a popular attraction on the island of Rarotonga. On Rarotonga, many people hold two jobs to make ends meet in an economy heavily influenced by outside forces: tourism demands, weather-affected fishing revenues and the rising cost of imported goods. The deal signed in February between the Cook Islands and China encompasses a series of cooperation agreements designed to support the domestic economy. They include more cooperation in trade, tourism, infrastructure, climate resilience and seabed minerals development. They also signalled closer diplomatic cooperation, with pledges to consult and support one another in multilateral forums, including the UN and the Pacific Islands Forum. The documents did not include references to security or military cooperation. Top: deep-sea mining plans have prompted concern in the Cook Islands. Above: tourism hub Rarotonga is home to nearly three-quarters of the country's population. China has already pledged $US1.5m to the Cook Islands for a new shipping vessel and promised to support renewable energy projects. The controversial practice of seabed mining is a key part of China's deals with the Cook Islands. The Pacific nation is one of the first countries in the world to grant exploration licences for deep-sea mineral exploration, a practice that has drawn criticism from others in the region. Gary van Eck walking through the research boat from Moana Minerals. Anna Powles, associate professor at Massey University's centre for defence and security studies, says deep-sea mining is crucial to China's interest in the Cook Islands. The two countries have agreed to collaborate on scientific research, joint expeditions, education and training. Powles says there is a 'race' for critical minerals for their defence application and for that reason China is 'actively engaged in finding opportunities and formalising partnerships with countries who are interested in mining their deep-sea minerals within their waters'. The activity has prompted concern in Rarotonga. Don Beer, head of Cook Islands' Fishing Association, is firmly opposed to seabed mineral exploration, citing concerns about its potential impact on already declining fish stocks. His unease is compounded by China's growing interest not just in minerals but also in the Cook Islands' maritime resources. 'We've just got to get the best possible deal out of them. But we've got to be careful,' Beer says. 'Like with any nation, we have to make sure they respect that we have sovereignty.' Cook Islands is one example of a story playing out across the Pacific, where China has been steadily deepening its influence. In recent years Beijing has signed security and development deals with Solomon Islands, Kiribati and most recently Nauru, reshaping traditional alliances. For New Zealand and its allies, the fear is that China's growing presence in the region could eventually translate into military access or control over critical infrastructure. Powles says that for Beijing, deepening relations with the Cook Island shores up 'closer diplomatic ties with Pacific Island partners and that helps to influence and shape a regional order'. From New Zealand's perspective, she notes, the aid freeze was a sign of just how fragile the relationship has become. 'It is quite an extreme move to pause aid,' she says. 'New Zealand has been increasingly clear over the years that, particularly in the security realm, that it sees China as a disruptor and a destabilising actor in the Pacific.' Some in the Cook Islands welcome more Chinese investment but others raise questions over what it will bring. Next month, the Cook Islands will mark 60 years of self-government in free association with New Zealand. As preparations for a massive inter-island celebration unfold, the event is tinged with diplomatic unease. Cook Islands has invited New Zealand to attend – Wellington says their attendance is still 'under consideration'. In addition to pausing financial assistance, New Zealand is also not considering new funding 'until the Cook Islands Government takes concrete steps to repair the relationship and restore trust'. 'New Zealand and Cook Islands officials are engaging on this,' a New Zealand ministry of foreign affairs and trade spokesperson told the Guardian. 'New Zealand hopes that steps will be taken swiftly to address New Zealand's concerns so that this support can be resumed as soon as possible.' The Guardian contacted the Chinese embassy in New Zealand for comment, but did not receive a response. At a press briefing in Beijing last month, Foreign ministry spokesperson Guo Jiakun said China's cooperation with the Cook Islands 'targets no third party, nor should it be interfered with or constrained by any third party'. He said the two countries were 'comprehensive strategic partners based on mutual respect and common development', adding that their partnership was based on 'equality and mutual benefit'. Fishing association head Don Beer on his boat. 'We have to make sure [China] respect that we have sovereignty.' But others, like Browne, are worried about China's growing influence. She fears her country will 'be swallowed up in China's money'. 'I totally support us not being too reliant on others, I see that as a real positive,' she says. 'But when I see China's involvement, I think: two steps forward, three steps back.'

Caught in the contest between China and the west, the Cook Islands asks where its future lies
Caught in the contest between China and the west, the Cook Islands asks where its future lies

The Guardian

time2 days ago

  • Business
  • The Guardian

Caught in the contest between China and the west, the Cook Islands asks where its future lies

On a remote stretch of land in the Cook Islands lies a second world war airstrip. Once used as a wartime supply route by American forces, the narrow runway is in dire need of resealing to allow larger tourist jets to land. Leaders on the northern island of Penrhyn have asked New Zealand, Australia and the US to help, but none have come through. Now, they hope China will step in and fund it. 'That is the dream,' says Penrhyn's executive director, Puna John Vano. 'We want to maintain our traditional partners, but if not, we're going to get assistance from elsewhere.' Funding for the airstrip is a symbol of a wider struggle unfolding in the Cook Islands, a new front in the contest between China and the west in the Pacific. The country of about 17,000 people has seen ties with its biggest ally and former colonial partner New Zealand fray as leaders draw it closer to Beijing. On the Cook Islands' main island of Rarotonga, many people are angry over the damage caused to relations with New Zealand. The Cook Islands struck major deals with China earlier this year for economic and other kinds of cooperation, sparking a diplomatic row with Wellington over a lack of consultation. Cook Islands operates in 'free association' New Zealand and while it governs its own affairs, Wellington provides assistance including in foreign affairs and defence. Tensions escalated and last month New Zealand abruptly cut off millions of dollars in critical aid and funding. Penrhyn island's executive director, Puna John Vano, says 'we're going to get assistance from elsewhere' if it doesn't come from customary partners. Now, the path ahead is unclear. On the country's main island, Rarotonga, many are angry over the damage caused to relations with New Zealand. Some welcome more Chinese investment but others raise questions over what it will bring. The Cook Islands prime minister, Mark Brown, and his government declined requests for an interview. But others, such as the opposition leader, Tina Browne, were vocal in their criticism of Beijing building its influence in the Cook Islands. 'China frightens me. Its involvement with my country scares me a bit,' Browne says. 'You have this big power and small, small us. What sort of voice would we have?' Rarotonga is a tourism hub and home to nearly three-quarters of the Cook Islands' population. The place is small enough to circle by motorbike in under an hour. In the sleepy seaside town, one of the main attractions is standing at the seawall to watch planes land. Opposition leader Tina Browne fears the Cook Islands will 'be swallowed up in China's money.' Many here share Browne's concerns over China, particularly as it begins to put pressure on the country's longstanding ties with New Zealand. This relationship is overwhelmingly popular – its citizens hold New Zealand citizenship. Cook Islanders have access to healthcare and employment opportunities in New Zealand. Fruit and vegetable seller Teremoana Napa spent 40 years living and working in New Zealand before returning to the Cook Islands. She is now on New Zealand's pension. 'The New Zealand passport gives us so much,' she says. 'We don't want a Cook Islands passport, that's a bloody dead-end passport.' Rarotonga's economy is heavily influenced by tourism, fishing revenue and the rising cost of imports. Others share concern over the loss of crucial aid from Wellington. Outside the country's main hospital, Calais Ngatan helps his heavily pregnant wife to the car. The young man fears what New Zealand's funding cuts will mean for the islands' already stretched healthcare system. New Zealand's NZ$18.2m budget support – which is tied up in the freeze – supports education, healthcare and other critical services. 'Our government decided to sign a contract with China,' Ngatan says. 'So it's limiting our resources over here.' He says he 'feels robbed' by China 'taking everything from us'. 'If we cut ties with New Zealand, it also cuts ties with all the tourists that are coming from overseas,' he says. 'That will be a big problem for us, because that's how we survive.' Watching planes land is a popular attraction on the island of Rarotonga. On Rarotonga, many people hold two jobs to make ends meet in an economy heavily influenced by outside forces: tourism demands, weather-affected fishing revenues and the rising cost of imported goods. The deal signed in February between the Cook Islands and China encompasses a series of cooperation agreements designed to support the domestic economy. They include more cooperation in trade, tourism, infrastructure, climate resilience and seabed minerals development. They also signalled closer diplomatic cooperation, with pledges to consult and support one another in multilateral forums, including the UN and the Pacific Islands Forum. The documents did not include references to security or military cooperation. Top: deep-sea mining plans have prompted concern in the Cook Islands. Above: tourism hub Rarotonga is home to nearly three-quarters of the country's population. China has already pledged $US1.5m to the Cook Islands for a new shipping vessel and promised to support renewable energy projects. The controversial practice of seabed mining is a key part of China's deals with the Cook Islands. The Pacific nation is one of the first countries in the world to grant exploration licences for deep-sea mineral exploration, a practice that has drawn criticism from others in the region. Gary van Eck walking through the research boat from Moana Minerals. Anna Powles, associate professor at Massey University's centre for defence and security studies, says deep-sea mining is crucial to China's interest in the Cook Islands. The two countries have agreed to collaborate on scientific research, joint expeditions, education and training. Powles says there is a 'race' for critical minerals for their defence application and for that reason China is 'actively engaged in finding opportunities and formalising partnerships with countries who are interested in mining their deep-sea minerals within their waters'. The activity has prompted concern in Rarotonga. Don Beer, head of Cook Islands' Fishing Association, is firmly opposed to seabed mineral exploration, citing concerns about its potential impact on already declining fish stocks. His unease is compounded by China's growing interest not just in minerals but also in the Cook Islands' maritime resources. 'We've just got to get the best possible deal out of them. But we've got to be careful,' Beer says. 'Like with any nation, we have to make sure they respect that we have sovereignty.' Cook Islands is one example of a story playing out across the Pacific, where China has been steadily deepening its influence. In recent years Beijing has signed security and development deals with Solomon Islands, Kiribati and most recently Nauru, reshaping traditional alliances. For New Zealand and its allies, the fear is that China's growing presence in the region could eventually translate into military access or control over critical infrastructure. Powles says that for Beijing, deepening relations with the Cook Island shores up 'closer diplomatic ties with Pacific Island partners and that helps to influence and shape a regional order'. From New Zealand's perspective, she notes, the aid freeze was a sign of just how fragile the relationship has become. 'It is quite an extreme move to pause aid,' she says. 'New Zealand has been increasingly clear over the years that, particularly in the security realm, that it sees China as a disruptor and a destabilising actor in the Pacific.' Some in the Cook Islands welcome more Chinese investment but others raise questions over what it will bring. Next month, the Cook Islands will mark 60 years of self-government in free association with New Zealand. As preparations for a massive inter-island celebration unfold, the event is tinged with diplomatic unease. Cook Islands has invited New Zealand to attend – Wellington says their attendance is still 'under consideration'. In addition to pausing financial assistance, New Zealand is also not considering new funding 'until the Cook Islands Government takes concrete steps to repair the relationship and restore trust'. 'New Zealand and Cook Islands officials are engaging on this,' a New Zealand ministry of foreign affairs and trade spokesperson told the Guardian. 'New Zealand hopes that steps will be taken swiftly to address New Zealand's concerns so that this support can be resumed as soon as possible.' The Guardian contacted the Chinese embassy in New Zealand for comment, but did not receive a response. At a press briefing in Beijing last month, Foreign ministry spokesperson Guo Jiakun said China's cooperation with the Cook Islands 'targets no third party, nor should it be interfered with or constrained by any third party'. He said the two countries were 'comprehensive strategic partners based on mutual respect and common development', adding that their partnership was based on 'equality and mutual benefit'. Fishing association head Don Beer on his boat. 'We have to make sure [China] respect that we have sovereignty.' But others, like Browne, are worried about China's growing influence. She fears her country will 'be swallowed up in China's money'. 'I totally support us not being too reliant on others, I see that as a real positive,' she says. 'But when I see China's involvement, I think: two steps forward, three steps back.'

'Shabby' Welsh seaside town is named UK's second worst, and people are angry
'Shabby' Welsh seaside town is named UK's second worst, and people are angry

Wales Online

time28-06-2025

  • Wales Online

'Shabby' Welsh seaside town is named UK's second worst, and people are angry

'Shabby' Welsh seaside town is named UK's second worst, and people are angry The UK's consumer champions surveyed over 3,800 people about their experiences of UK seaside destinations in the last year. Bangor's harbour (Image: R) Wales is fortunate to have some of the world's most stunning beaches and just this week two of our seaside destinations have been named among the very best in the UK. UK consumer champions Which? surveyed over 3,800 people about their experiences of UK seaside destinations in the last year. They asked those taking part what their views were on a range of things including the quality of the beaches, scenery, food and drink offerings, accommodation, tourist attractions and value for money. ‌ In the end, two Welsh locations made it into the best five seaside finds, along with Bamburgh in Northumberland which took the top spot for the fifth year running. From superstar gigs to cosy pubs, find out What's On in Wales by signing up to our newsletter here . ‌ Portmeirion in Gwynedd, North Wales' colourful Italian inspired village celebrated for its vibrant architecture achieved a commendable 79% rating. In fourth place on the list was another Welsh gem that won over visitors. St Davids in Pembrokeshire, the UK's smallest city, it also matched Portmeirion's 79% destination score. You can read more what the people had to say about both places here. Article continues below Garth Pier in Bangor (Image: R) The least popular location on the list was Bognor Regis, which in the past has been celebrated as one of the sunniest spots in mainland Britain. It has now languished at the bottom of the holiday destination table with a mere 36% rating, earning just one star across most judged areas. A disappointed visitor described it as "'a run-down seaside town". Trailing just slightly better was Bangor in Gwynedd, which scored a very disappointing 38% where its "shabby" state didn't go unnoticed. However, it has gone up a spot from being last year's 'worst seaside town in the UK'. Yet, amidst criticism, someone commended the area for its "stunning views across the Menai Straits" and considered it an excellent gateway to North Wales and Anglesey. ‌ Bangor may lack a traditional beach but boasts a Victorian-era landmark pier, virtually unchanged since Lord Penrhyn inaugurated it in 1896. WalesOnline reporter and Bangor daughter Branwen Jones has been left less than impressed by the news that Bangor is again at the bottom of the Which? table. She said: "I was quietly outraged, firstly because Bangor had been referred to as a 'town' when in fact it's a city, and secondly, that so many people could get it so wrong. Article continues below "You can keep your sandy beaches and your fancy hotels because Bangor has so much more than that. It has a community of people that genuinely care about it, people who have lived and worked on its shores, and will fight to keep its history alive and its future bright. "And as an added bonus, you can find impeccable views of Eryri, the sea and the north-west Welsh coastline. You'll find a city rich with history, a beautiful cathedral, a university built by the people and for the people, and so many amazing people that call it 'adra'."

Which? ranks UK's best and worst seaside towns with mixed news for North Wales
Which? ranks UK's best and worst seaside towns with mixed news for North Wales

North Wales Live

time27-06-2025

  • North Wales Live

Which? ranks UK's best and worst seaside towns with mixed news for North Wales

The UK's best and worst coastal destinations for 2025 have been announced. The Which? rankings have been released - with mixed performances from locations in North Wales. Which? surveyed over 3,800 people about their experiences of UK seaside destinations in the last year, asking their views on a range of criteria including the quality of the beaches, scenery, food and drink offerings, accommodation, tourist attractions and value for money. Bamburgh in Northumberland took the top UK spot in Which?'s survey for the fifth year running. With an overall destination score of 84 per cent, Bamburgh was given five stars for its beach, seafront, scenery and peace and quiet. The picturesque village of Beer on the Jurassic Coast came second - after coming in 18th place last year. Surrounded by white chalk cliffs, the shingle beach is lined with fishing boats. One visitor said 'Beer is charming, with beautiful coastal scenery and is full of history.' Beer scored five stars for scenery and four stars for value for money and peace and quiet. North Wales gets its first placing at third although it's not really a seaside town as such. Portmeirion, in Gwynedd, is known for its Italian-inspired, colourful architecture which was made famous by cult TV favourite 'The Prisoner'. It received a score of 79 per cent. Scoring five stars for its scenery and seafront, one visitor said: 'The place is superb in every way. It's a beautiful setting with wonderful food and accommodation - perfect for a special occasion.' The average night for a hotel in Portmeirion is £134. Another Welsh spot that impressed visitors according to the Which? survey was St Davids, Pembrokeshire. The UK's smallest city also earned a 79 per cent destination score. One visitor praised St Davids for its 'excellent facilities, lovely seafront, nice walks and excellent hotels.' At the other end of the table came Bangor. For those with a 'glass half full' mentality then you could welcome the fact it has crawled off the bottom spot, where it finished last year. Bognor Regis took that dubious honour and the university city moved up to second from bottom with a score of 38 per cent. One visitor called it 'shabby'. It is somewhat unlucky in that it has never been a traditional seaside resort - and a beach is one of the categories rated, which is not something Bangor has. Despite its low score, one respondent praised Bangor for its 'stunning views across the Menai Straits' and for being a good base for North Wales and Anglesey. Bangor may not have a proper beach, but its pier is a Victorian triumph and remains much the same as when Lord Penrhyn opened it in 1896. When it came to some of the most popular resorts a few places just missed out on the top 20. Beaumaris, Llandudno and Conwy all scored 74%. Colwyn Bay was lower down with a 58% overall rating although it did get a maximum score for its beautiful beach. Porthmadog scored 63%, with its scenery its greatest asset according to reviewers. Join the North Wales Live WhatsApp community group where you can get the latest stories delivered straight to your phone Criccieth made the top 50 with a score of 69%. A full list is below. Rory Boland, Editor of Which? Travel said: 'From beautiful coastlines to peaceful walks and charming traditional bucket and spade resorts, the UK seaside offers something for everyone - whatever the weather. 'While you may have your own favourite destination, as well as the top spots in Devon and Wales, our survey shows there are still plenty of beautiful hidden gems across the UK to explore. 'Some seaside resorts offer better value for money than others, so it is worth looking at surrounding areas of popular spots if you are looking for a cheaper overnight stay.' Results are based on an online survey of 8,952 experiences from 3,872 Which? Connect panel members conducted Jan-Mar 2025. Full list: Bamburgh: 84% Beer: 80% Portmeirion: 79% Saint David's: 79% Sidmouth: 79% Tynemouth: 79% Dungeness: 78% Tenby: 78% Aldeburgh: 77% Wells-Next-The-Sea: 77% Whitby: 77% Lynmouth: 76% Nairn: 76% Saint Andrews: 76% St Mawes: 76% Swanage: 76% Broadstairs: 75% Bude: 75% Lyme Regis: 75% Robin Hood's Bay: 75% Southwold: 75% Stonehaven: 75% Beaumaris: 74% Conwy: 74% Falmouth: 74% Llandudno: 74% Lymington: 74% Pittenweem: 74% Crail: 73% Filey: 73% Frinton-on-sea: 73% North Berwick: 73% Saltburn-by-the-Sea: 73% Tobermory: 73% Blakeney: 72% Lytham St Annes: 72% Oban: 72% Ullapool: 72% Whitley Bay: 72% Aberaeron: 71% Amble: 71% Budleigh Salterton: 71% Deal: 71% Looe: 71% Sheringham: 71% Penarth: 70% Criccieth: 69% Mevagissey: 69% Seahouses: 69% Ventnor: 69% Brixham: 68% Clevedon: 68% Cromer: 68% Fowey: 68% Grange over sands: 68% Salcombe: 68% Saundersfoot: 68% St Ives: 68% Weymouth: 68% Eastbourne: 67% Southsea: 67% Dunbar: 66% Felixstowe: 66% Padstow: 66% Scarborough: 66% Teignmouth: 66% Whitstable: 66% Berwick-upon-Tweed: 65% Folkestone: 65% Shanklin: 65% Exmouth: 64% Poole: 64% West Bay: 64% Porthmadog: 63% Barmouth: 62% Hunstanton: 62% Morecambe: 62% Swansea: 62% Torquay: 62% Worthing: 62% Aberystwyth: 61% Brighton: 61% Dawlish: 61% Minehead: 61% Bournemouth: 59% Southport: 59% Colwyn Bay: 58% Hastings: 58% Herne Bay: 58% Penzance: 58% Porthcawl: 58% Seaton: 58% Newquay: 57% Plymouth: 57% Barry Island: 56% Largs: 56% Margate: 56% Bridlington: 55% Ilfracombe: 55% Littlehampton: 54% Mablethorpe: 54% Ramsgate: 54% Skegness: 54% Fishguard: 53% Barton on sea: 52% Cleethorpes: 52% Lowestoft: 52% New Brighton: 52% Ayr: 51% Great Yarmouth: 50% Weston-super-Mare: 49% Blackpool: 48% Burnham-on-Sea: 46% Fleetwood: 46% Southend-on-Sea: 43% Clacton-on-Sea: 42% Bangor: 38% Bognor Regis: 36%

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