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The Advertiser
10-07-2025
- The Advertiser
Here are two of Australia's most stunning port towns; but which one's for you?
Port Fairy Lighthouse. By Amy Cooper and Mal Chenu Updated July 10 2025 - 3:58pm, first published 5:30pm Subscribe now for unlimited access. or signup to continue reading All articles from our website The digital version of Today's Paper All other in your area They say any port in a storm, but for me there's just one: Port Fairy, the delightful finale to Victoria's Great Ocean Road. Even prettier than its name, the little seaside settlement straight from coastal cuteness central casting is a cinematographer's dream of historic bluestone buildings, whitewashed whalers' cottages, a picturesque lighthouse, 19th-century churches, wide streets lined with lofty Norfolk pines and fishing boats bobbing in a sparkling marina at the mouth of the River Moyne. It's the stuff of storybooks and sea shanties. And significantly more soothing than a sojourn with Mal as a caged canape for the sharks of South Australia's seafood capital. I'd rather stroll Port Fairy's jetties and boardwalks, watching hauls of crayfish and abalone pour in from the Southern Ocean, breathing the brine-tinged breeze as it sets masts clinking in chorus with the schooners raised around the hearth of Victoria's oldest pub, the Merrijig Inn - a riverbank fixture since the 1840s. It's a place to potter and linger in cafes, boutiques and galleries, or rewind time on a heritage walk, taking in 50-plus buildings classified by the National Trust. All good Fairy tales have their dark side, and here it dwells out beyond the sheltered harbour, in the drama of a jagged coastline carved by turbulent swells, buffeting gales and the rages of long-dormant volcanoes. If you're a sailor, Port Fairy's scary. It marks the westward point of Victoria's Shipwreck Coast, a graveyard for some 700 stricken vessels, 19 of which lie in Port Fairy Bay and surrounding waters, often eerily visible from the town's Maritime and Shipwreck Heritage Walk. Port Fairy. Picture: Visit Victoria You can spot the happier spectacle of southern right whales and blue whales raising their families in winter, or the southern hemisphere's largest colony of fur seals at nearby Lady Julia Percy (Deen Maar) island, Australia's only offshore volcano. Cruises from Port Fairy take you close to both. On land, in what sounds like a wacky cartoon storyline, more than 200 koalas and kangaroos as well as emus, wombats, swans, blue wrens and miscellaneous waterbirds all live together in the extinct crater of another volcano. Criss-crossed with easy walks, Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve is a magma-nificent setting for native wildlife - even better when discovered with Indigenous guides from Worn Gundidj Aboriginal tours. Another surprise: teeny Port Fairy has a supersized capacity for partying. The 4000-ish population swells to 50,000 every March when the four-day Port Fairy Folk Festival brings top artists to town - and across the year a very merry Fairy stages jazz, literary, music, spring, winter and Irish festivals. Mal might think the world's his oyster over there in SA's shellfish central, but this festive fishing village is Australia's fairy dinkum premium port. Our brains create associations, and this is especially true for places. Rottnest Island equals quokkas, Paris equals the Eiffel Tower, Wuhan equals Covid, and Springfield, Ohio, equals "They're eating the dogs". One and a half of these may be apocryphal. A feast in seafood capital Port Lincoln. Picture: SATC And Port Lincoln equals Dean Lukin, who won a gold medal in weightlifting at the 1984 Los Angeles Olympics. Admittedly, the modest tuna fisherman was aided by an Eastern Bloc boycott of the Games and the absence of steroid-sodden Soviets, but the performance turned Dean into an overnight Aussie hero and shone a bright light on the town. It was, and remains, the stuff of legend. As is the southern bluefin tuna, which is as sought-after around the world as seat 11A on a Boeing Dreamliner. Port Lincoln celebrates the feisty fishy at its Tunarama Festival, which attracts visitors from far and wide, many of whom take part in the marquee event, the tuna toss. But even if you're not a tosser, you can still enjoy the street parade and the cornucopia of food and wine tastings that showcase South Australia's epicurean Eyre Peninsula. Port Lincoln is the "Seafood Capital of Australia", and restaurants and cafes knock out great Australian bites of local flathead, whiting, garfish, yellowtail kingfish, crayfish, sardines, octopus, abalone, gummy shark, Coffin Bay oysters, Spencer Gulf king prawns and tons of tasty tuna. If you'd rather hang out with sea creatures than eat them, you can check out whales from June to October, swim with dolphins and Australian sea lions (the "puppy dogs of the sea") at Seal Cove and go great white shark cage diving on a day trip to the Neptune Islands. Wild encounters off Port Lincoln. Picture: King Roberto Twitchers flock here to see greater crested terns, rock parrots, fan-tailed cuckoos, black-shouldered kites, sooty oystercatchers and endangered white-bellied sea eagles, the second-largest bird of prey in Australia. Port Lincoln is so awesome it was once considered a potential site for South Australia's capital. But long before that, the Barngarla, Nauo and Wirangu people wandered the area, foraging and, you guessed it, fishing. Untamed Escapes offers an exploration of the region's Indigenous heritage, lore and fishing techniques, including a wild bushfoods lunch. Australia's premier "Port" also boasts railway and maritime museums, galleries, gorgeous beaches, yachting, scuba diving, game fishing (of course), walking trails, vineyards and national parks. There's a cool street-art trail and noteworthy statues of triple Melbourne Cup-winner Makybe Diva (owned by another local tuna fisherman), and Matthew Flinders (who named the town) and his cat, for some reason. Amy can spin her Fairy tale, but if you really want to live happily ever after, head to Port Lincoln.
Time Out
10-05-2025
- Time Out
Drift House
Update Monday, May 5: Keen for a luxe winter getaway? Drift House is running an exclusive offer through the colder months with rates from just $325 per night – that's a saving of 34 per cent! The Winter Escape Package (which includes daily breakfast) has a minimum stay of three nights and is available from now until August 31 (exlcuding the King's Birthday long weekend). For more info, head to the website. The charming fishing village of Port Fairy – about three-and-a-half hours south-west from Melbourne – has always held a special place in my heart. Every year until I was 18 my family would descend upon the township over the Labour Day long weekend to attend the Port Fairy Folk Festival (affectionately known as 'the Folkie'). These childhood memories are some of my fondest: boogie boarding at East Beach, eating fish and chips on the historic wharf, playing hide and seek behind the giant Norfolk pines and spending all my pocket money at the lolly shop. In the years since I stopped visiting, I would often Google the area and plan a return holiday. My dream itinerary always included a stay at Drift House – an exclusive boutique hotel that's committed to sustainability and supporting the local community, and boasts just six luxuriously designed suites. So it's with excitement and pangs of nostalgia that I finally confirm my booking and hit the road for a weekend getaway. Why stay at Drift House? Located just past Warrnambool, at the very end of the Great Ocean Road, Drift House offers what I think is one of the most exceptional coastal retreats in Victoria. Owned and operated by Colleen Guiney and John Watkinson (who launched the property in 2013 after a big seachange move from Melbourne), it provides a relaxed-yet-chic home-away-from-home – if your home had incredible architectural finishes, bountiful fruit trees and fancy linen. The main two-storey bluestone building dates back to 1875, with Guiney and Watkinson bringing on award-winning design firm Multiplicity to transform the derelict abode into the best accommodation in regional Victoria, redefining what 'luxury' means in the process. But the sense of history has not been lost – while there is undoubtedly a contemporary feel to each space, many of the original features remain: timber beams, stonework and even the fireplace that sits in the private courtyard of suite three. Seamlessly blended with modern, bespoke elements (hello, giant bath and king-size bed), it creates the perfect homage to the site's rich heritage, while still looking towards the future. In 2019, the second expansion was completed – stage two of Drift House added two new suites in the fully renovated Edwardian-era villa next door, a reception area and the Salon. Sustainability has remained at the forefront for Guiney and Watkinson though, with the pair dedicated to lessening the hotel's impact on the environment. There are solar panels, processes in place to save water and reduce waste, and the plunge pool was removed in favour of a native garden (and really, who needs it when the beach is a stone's throw away). Plus, with every direct booking a donation is made – Guiney and Watkinson have contributed to a school in Tanzania, and more recently funds have gone towards the rewilding of Tower Hill. What are the rooms like at Drift House? The beauty of Drift House is that every one of the six suites is completely unique in its own way (yes, you absolutely can use this as an excuse to return over and over again). I'm staying in suite three; this light-filled, ground-floor residence has it all: huge floor-to-ceiling windows, a cosy nook to snuggle up with a book, free-standing bath, rain shower and kitchenette. The space also acts as a gallery to show off the architectural features, including reclaimed timber panels, exposed brickwork, gorgeous cabinetry and a hidden bathroom. But it's the adjoining private courtyard that's my favourite. With a boardwalk-style raised decking that leads to a cute outdoor setting right next to the open fireplace, it's a lovely sun-soaked spot to have a cuppa or glass of wine (I can vouch for doing both). You may also notice the art – Guiney is a talented artist, and her abstract work adorns the walls of the suites. Some of them are for sale, so don't be shy about enquiring if something catches your eye. I was lucky enough to get a little sneak peek at some of the other rooms, too. Suite four with its giant projector is perfect for movie nights, while suite six has an enormous bathroom and light fittings worthy of a Pinterest mood board. Picking a favourite? Impossible. Oh, and did I mention the complimentary homemade yo-yo biscuits that await every guest upon arrival? Talk about a sweet escape. Eating and drinking at Drift House While there are plenty of lovely spots in Port Fairy to enjoy a feed (my hot tips: Coffin Sally for pizzas and cocktails; the Stump for pub grub, live tunes and a quality pint of Guinness), a bonus of staying at Drift House is getting to experience the epicurean delights of the Salon. Housed in the cosy communal lounge and dining room (complete with sunken seating area, fireplace and outdoor patio), this intimate space is open for dinner on Tuesday, Thursday and Saturday nights, with guests given priority seating over external visitors. Don't hesitate to drop in before your reservation time though, with bevvies and snacks served from 6pm. The vibe of the food is modern Australian meets rustic Spanish small plates, with an emphasis on championing as much local and home-grown produce as possible. The menu can change depending on what's in season, but my stand-out dishes were the heritage tomatoes with smoked tomato sorbet, ajo blanco and sourdough crumb; aged manchego with roast Victoria plums (grown on-site), honey, toasted almonds and a sprinkling of sea salt – aka a bite-sized starter singing with flavour; and Western Plains pork scotch with spiced chickpeas and mojo verde. You can wash it all down with a cheeky tipple, of course – a pinot noir from the Grampians was my wine of choice, as recommended by Guiney. And if Watkinson's Basque cheesecake happens to be on the dessert line-up, make sure you order it. This hearty slice of taste bud heaven is swoon-worthy – it's rich and creamy, with just the slightest burnt caramel tang. I'm still thinking about it. Breakfast is also served here daily (it's included in the room cost), and the menu is a smorgasbord of hearty options starring ultra-local goodies. It's hard to go past the classic toastie with ham, raclette cheese and zucchini relish – rip it apart to make that cheese really ooze – but the brekkie plate with meats, cheese, boiled eggs and pickled veg is another winner. What is the service like at Drift House? Warm, accommodating and personal. The team here is a delight – everyone is welcoming and packed with advice on where to eat, drink, shop, swim and take the hotel bikes for a spin. From organising a Friday night dinner booking to whipping up a takeaway cappuccino for my rain-soaked husband post golf sesh, my stay was made all the more memorable thanks to the staff going above and beyond to deliver an elevated experience. What to do in Port Fairy It may be tempting to bunker down in your suite, emerging only to refuel – and look, I'd recommend that, if there wasn't so much to see and do in Port Fairy and its surrounds. The main thoroughfares of Bank and Sackville Streets are lined with boutique shops, art galleries and cute cafés, and there are more than 60 buildings (include white-washed seafarer's cottages and stately properties) classified by the National Trust. The beaches are ideal for swimming and surfing, and keen anglers will want to cast a line in the Moyne River or head out from the historic wharf on a charter boat. A walk around Griffiths Island is a must-do – the loop trail will take you an hour, and bypasses the fully functional lighthouse. Keep your eyes peeled for swamp wallabies and the colony of short-tailed shearwaters (or 'mutton birds') that call the island home. If you're keen to venture a little further afield, Budj Bim Cultural Landscape is a UNESCO World Heritage Site that was recognised for its sophisticated aquaculture system devised by the Gunditjmara people 6,600 years ago. Tower Hill Wildlife Reserve is another significant attraction: situated in a dormant volcanic crater, it boasts incredible geological formations, several walking trails and a visitor centre that explores the site's Indigenous heritage. *** Drift House is the kind of place you rave about to your friends and family. It's special in the way it connects you to Port Fairy – the land, the history, the people and the produce. And it does a wonderful job of transporting you far, far away from the busyness of real life. Just don't let it linger on your holiday wishlist for as long as I did. The key details:
