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Fashion Network
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Deeny's dozen: 12 best menswear collections this season
These are my rankings of the 12 best menswear collections in the runway season that ended on Sunday evening in Paris, listed in chronological order. A season characterized by rampant color, stylish historicism, hybrid fabrics and a battle over the future of tailoring— to deconstruct or not? Enter the renaissance of male refinement. Zegna See catwalk Though this collection was unveiled at the Dubai Opera, it was still easily one of Europe's best arrays of new ideas. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; whisper-light deconstruction; and the first of many pajama suits in one-inch-wide vertical stripes in light silk voile. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of layering. Post Archive Faction (PAF) See catwalk Something of a breakout moment for Post Archive Faction (PAF) co-founder Dongjoon Lim, whose meeting of tough chic and street style was revelatory. Stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert-dry linen shirts presented to huge applause inside Stazione Leopolda. Very much the standout fashion show of Pitti. Dolce & Gabbana See catwalk Expect a long, hot summer in 2026—ideally when wearing the latest from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, leading to the finale where two scores of hirsute male models marched out in pajama pants, blazers, shorts and suits—all maxi-decorated with crystal, jet and strass. Casualwear chic conquers all. Brioni See catwalk A moment of grace—and extreme levity—at Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati—artist muse and style icon—inspired one of John Galliano 's greatest shows. From perfectly cut pale shawl-collar silk-linen tuxedos, where adding enzymes reduced the shine, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in tiny designs of Brioni's famed plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the finest example of haute sartorial style. And a thousand miles from AI. Giorgio Armani See catwalk Giorgio missed his signature show due to ill health, and it did lack an edit. But it was still the best selection of the super-deconstructed summer suits made in silk and pajama fabrics. Giorgio's polished Pantelleria panache at its best. Even absent, Armani remains menswear's greatest tailor. Louis Vuitton See catwalk Snakes-and-ladders chic from Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, staged in a massive fashion and music happening outside the Pompidou Center. The pay dirt coming in Williams' excellent fresh tailoring: from snappy pop star double-breasted jackets worn with flared trousers, to micro blazers and wide pleated pants—very David Live album cover in Paris. Add 'tailor' to Pharrell's list of professions, after producer, rockstar, dandy and dad. Grace Wales Bonner See catwalk In a season defined by the renaissance of kicky tailoring, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the zone with her blend of Afro-Caribbean panache meets active sports. Lean suits with ever-so-flared pants and jackets with contrast collars; Crombies accessorized with diamond baobab-flower brooches and berets courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best eveningwear in menswear. All anchored by some amazing new Y-3 Field shoes. Issey Miyake See catwalk After a far too restrained Homme Plissé collection in Pitti, the house's IM Men 'Dancing Texture' collection, in the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, was a real beauty. Performance dance art met adventurous design, fabrics and color. As design trio Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale-like motifs echoing across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats—made in hues of acid greens, violet blues and dazzling turquoises. The color palette of the season and a lesson to cool guys on how to stand out in a crowd. Dries Van Noten See catwalk Very much the noisiest applause of the season was for the menswear debut of Dries Van Noten, where feminine fabrics and hues met fluid menswear tailoring. Revamped and rippling opera coats; double-breasted blazers with noble volumes; pale trenches with crystal-embroidered shoulders; silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed being seen in this June. Always a telling sign. Dior See catwalk In the season's biggest debut, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, the Northern Irishman zoned in on the house's DNA—especially womenswear designs by Monsieur Dior himself—to create a powerful, pathbreaking fashion statement. Like Monsieur's famed Bar Jacket whipped up in Donegal tweed. Or Monsieur's Autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille that morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts. Or Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale, that became undulating men's greatcoats. Turning Dior's DNA upside down for the 21st century—and about time too. Craig Green See catwalk The most fertile imagination in menswear, Craig Green helped close out the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, epochs, cultural references and diverse artistic moods, Green developed a Beatles-inspired psychedelic fantasy that lesser talents can only dream of even imagining. While his multi-tagged and tied opening straightjackets were the season's best—and boldest—look. Taakk See catwalk Takuya Morikawa of Taakk staged the final official show of Paris menswear—and talk about a sweet F-finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all manner of innovative dyeing processes and silhouette-enhancing details. Elegant light coats were given volume through multiple sculptural embroideries, made in ribbons drawn from the same fabric as the garment. Dévoré technique coupled with foam printing processes created indistinct fusions of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Surface chic at its best.
Fashion Network
01-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Deeny's dozen: 12 best menswear collections this season
These are my rankings of the 12 best menswear collections in the runway season that ended on Sunday evening in Paris, listed in chronological order. A season characterized by rampant color, stylish historicism, hybrid fabrics and a battle over the future of tailoring— to deconstruct or not? Enter the renaissance of male refinement. Zegna See catwalk Though this collection was unveiled at the Dubai Opera, it was still easily one of Europe's best arrays of new ideas. Recycled fabrics or hybrid threads; whisper-light deconstruction; and the first of many pajama suits in one-inch-wide vertical stripes in light silk voile. In a word, Alessandro Sartori at his best. Welcome to the lightest of layering. Post Archive Faction (PAF) See catwalk Something of a breakout moment for Post Archive Faction (PAF) co-founder Dongjoon Lim, whose meeting of tough chic and street style was revelatory. Stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert-dry linen shirts presented to huge applause inside Stazione Leopolda. Very much the standout fashion show of Pitti. Dolce & Gabbana See catwalk Expect a long, hot summer in 2026—ideally when wearing the latest from Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Stripes, stripes and more stripes, leading to the finale where two scores of hirsute male models marched out in pajama pants, blazers, shorts and suits—all maxi-decorated with crystal, jet and strass. Casualwear chic conquers all. Brioni See catwalk A moment of grace—and extreme levity—at Brioni, presented in a palazzo that once belonged to the Casati family, whose Maria Luisa Casati—artist muse and style icon—inspired one of John Galliano 's greatest shows. From perfectly cut pale shawl-collar silk-linen tuxedos, where adding enzymes reduced the shine, to a beige tuxedo embroidered with real gold thread in tiny designs of Brioni's famed plant in the Abruzzi region, this was the finest example of haute sartorial style. And a thousand miles from AI. Giorgio Armani See catwalk Giorgio missed his signature show due to ill health, and it did lack an edit. But it was still the best selection of the super-deconstructed summer suits made in silk and pajama fabrics. Giorgio's polished Pantelleria panache at its best. Even absent, Armani remains menswear's greatest tailor. Louis Vuitton See catwalk Snakes-and-ladders chic from Pharrell Williams and his best collection so far for Louis Vuitton, staged in a massive fashion and music happening outside the Pompidou Center. The pay dirt coming in Williams' excellent fresh tailoring: from snappy pop star double-breasted jackets worn with flared trousers, to micro blazers and wide pleated pants—very David Live album cover in Paris. Add 'tailor' to Pharrell's list of professions, after producer, rockstar, dandy and dad. Grace Wales Bonner See catwalk In a season defined by the renaissance of kicky tailoring, Grace Wales Bonner was completely in the zone with her blend of Afro-Caribbean panache meets active sports. Lean suits with ever-so-flared pants and jackets with contrast collars; Crombies accessorized with diamond baobab-flower brooches and berets courtesy of Stephen Jones, and the best eveningwear in menswear. All anchored by some amazing new Y-3 Field shoes. Issey Miyake See catwalk After a far too restrained Homme Plissé collection in Pitti, the house's IM Men 'Dancing Texture' collection, in the soon-to-be-relocated Fondation Cartier, was a real beauty. Performance dance art met adventurous design, fabrics and color. As design trio Yuki Itakura, Sen Kawahara and Nobutaka Kobayashi showed scale-like motifs echoing across suits, tunics, kimono jackets and draped trench coats—made in hues of acid greens, violet blues and dazzling turquoises. The color palette of the season and a lesson to cool guys on how to stand out in a crowd. Dries Van Noten See catwalk Very much the noisiest applause of the season was for the menswear debut of Dries Van Noten, where feminine fabrics and hues met fluid menswear tailoring. Revamped and rippling opera coats; double-breasted blazers with noble volumes; pale trenches with crystal-embroidered shoulders; silk tops in Edwardian rugby shirt colors with plissé pajama pants. These were the clothes that the cast most enjoyed being seen in this June. Always a telling sign. Dior See catwalk In the season's biggest debut, Jonathan Anderson at Dior, the Northern Irishman zoned in on the house's DNA—especially womenswear designs by Monsieur Dior himself—to create a powerful, pathbreaking fashion statement. Like Monsieur's famed Bar Jacket whipped up in Donegal tweed. Or Monsieur's Autumn 1948 multi-fold Delft dress made in silk faille that morphed into multi-leaf white denim cargo shorts. Or Christian's Autumn 1952 dimpled moiré coat, La Cigale, that became undulating men's greatcoats. Turning Dior's DNA upside down for the 21st century—and about time too. Craig Green See catwalk The most fertile imagination in menswear, Craig Green helped close out the season with a show that was simply sensational. Riffing through materials, epochs, cultural references and diverse artistic moods, Green developed a Beatles-inspired psychedelic fantasy that lesser talents can only dream of even imagining. While his multi-tagged and tied opening straightjackets were the season's best—and boldest—look. Taakk See catwalk Takuya Morikawa of Taakk staged the final official show of Paris menswear—and talk about a sweet F-finale. Morikawa wants men to be sophisticated next summer, with all manner of innovative dyeing processes and silhouette-enhancing details. Elegant light coats were given volume through multiple sculptural embroideries, made in ribbons drawn from the same fabric as the garment. Dévoré technique coupled with foam printing processes created indistinct fusions of printed motifs, embroidery and gradient effects. Surface chic at its best.
Hypebeast
23-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Hypebeast
解構再造的青年反叛：Children of the Discordance 2026 春夏系列大秀正式登陸 Pitti Uomo 108
正如先前預告，Children of the Discordance今日重返佛羅倫斯Pitti Uomo108，與其他亞洲品牌 Post Archive Faction (PAF) 和 Homme Plisse Issey Miyake 共同擔任特別嘉賓。設計師志鎌英明（Hideaki Shikama） 毫不保留地帶來一系列極具表現力的解構與精緻重製服飾，反映出叛逆青年文化和城市生活的混亂能量。 在一份官方聲明中，Shikama 將自己和同儕早期的時尚比喻為 DJing——這與該系列「混音、剪切再加工」的理念不謀而合。「DJ 會避免播放相同的曲目，」他說，「這也適用於我們選擇穿著的服裝。這種在地語彙融入了我所做的一切。」 針對結構化裙裝、夾克、長褲和短褲，志鎌英明特別邀請一位倫敦培訓的裁縫密友，將精緻剪裁融入設計中。然而，品牌仍透過古銅色套染、解構輪廓和不對稱結構等進一步的工藝，維持其前衛美學。拼接西裝結合了純黑色、海軍藍、卡其色和灰色面料的不同色調組合；此外，深色碎布被縫製成橫向條紋織物，用於短夾克、長褲和外套。 「不和諧 Discordance」的概念透過對半縫合的服裝具體呈現，包括一件飾有動物圖案的傳統日式橫須賀外套、套染運動褲、圖案足球球衣以及成套運動服。其他互相疊加和碰撞的重點印花、飾邊和細節包括變形蟲圖案、塗鴉、褪色徽章、七彩寶石點綴，當然還有大量的破壞處理。 最後，Children of the Discordance 以一套非傳統的婚紗造型為發表會劃下句點，該造型由揉皺的白色和黑色 T 恤組成，並以鑲有寶石的十字架裝飾兜帽與頭紗的混合設計。 有興趣的讀者們敬請持續關注 Hypebeast，掌握 Pitti Uomo 108 的更多最新動態。 >TOKYO BASE 首度進軍銀座開設最大選物店「THE TOKYO」旗艦店 >UNDERCOVER 2026 早春系列正式登場 >首度舉辦「Friends & Family Day」！Hyperoom 即將登陸 2026 春夏巴黎時裝週
Fashion Network
20-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Post Archive Faction hits home run in Pitti
Add Post Archive Faction (PAF) to the list of brands smartly endorsed by Pitti, the giant menswear salon in Florence, where this new South Korean marque made its Italian debut on Thursday afternoon. Not quite a-star-is-born moment, but certainly the biggest hit of all the shows this week in Pitti. Post Archive Faction is all about techy urban wear, all-weather clubbing gear that's very dark, rather moody and definitely very cool, which all felt very now. 'The brand's name comes from the fact that our generation is very lucky in that we can access all these beautiful archives from art, fashion or cinema, or any movement anywhere, thanks to the Internet. So, we can drift around those archives, exploring and making our own new one,' explained co-founder Dongjoon Lim, in a preview. Where what stood out was the remarkable hand of many fabrics: stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert dry linen shirts. The tailoring was deconstructed yet somehow punchy – everything anchored by some great footwear: sprayed over Chelsea boots, brogue/clog assemblages; and saddle-stitch lace-ups. PAF had shown before in Paris, with some well-admired hyper avant-garde Yeti-style concept clothes, though without making a giant impact. But by scaling up for this show, the brand suddenly took on another dimension. PAF's arrival in Pitti comes in the wake of Kolon, a very large Korean conglomerate, buying a significant stake in the house. Looks like Kolon got the timing of that investment right. Notably, as a recent collab' with happening sneaker brand On underlined – some 90% of the collection sold out on the first day. On a day in Florence where temperatures hit 37 degrees celsius, Lim insisted: 'I don't really like hot weather! Though it's very hard to find cool lightweight clothing for spring. But what I was want is very classic, but practical.' Presented inside the looming former train station, Stazione Leopoldo, the cast marched out to the dramatic sounds of "Buka" by pianist Hania Rani. Full marks for some simple but highly effective staging, courtesy of veteran show producer Thierry Dreyfus. Using the full length the station, each figure silhouetted before a light-filled back wall. On the runway multiple trickles of sand – like from an hourglass – fell to create small islands to circumnavigate. Asked how he wanted his audience to react, Lim responded: 'I'd like to think that they will be drifting both physically and in their imagination.' Which they very probably were.
Fashion Network
19-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Fashion Network
Post Archive Faction hits home run in Pitti
Add Post Archive Faction (PAF) to the list of brands smartly endorsed by Pitti, the giant menswear salon in Florence, where this new South Korean marque made its Italian debut on Thursday afternoon. Not quite a-star-is-born moment, but certainly the biggest hit of all the shows this week in Pitti. Post Archive Faction is all about techy urban wear, all-weather clubbing gear that's very dark, rather moody and definitely very cool, which all felt very now. 'The brand's name comes from the fact that our generation is very lucky in that we can access all these beautiful archives from art, fashion or cinema, or any movement anywhere, thanks to the Internet. So, we can drift around those archives, exploring and making our own new one,' explained co-founder Dongjoon Lim, in a preview. Where what stood out was the remarkable hand of many fabrics: stiff dandy pajama suits in putty-hued toweling material; chiffon mesh crepe blazers that felt like light scouring pads; or desert dry linen shirts. The tailoring was deconstructed yet somehow punchy – everything anchored by some great footwear: sprayed over Chelsea boots, brogue/clog assemblages; and saddle-stitch lace-ups. PAF had shown before in Paris, with some well-admired hyper avant-garde Yeti-style concept clothes, though without making a giant impact. But by scaling up for this show, the brand suddenly took on another dimension. PAF's arrival in Pitti comes in the wake of Kolon, a very large Korean conglomerate, buying a significant stake in the house. Looks like Kolon got the timing of that investment right. Notably, as a recent collab' with happening sneaker brand On underlined – some 90% of the collection sold out on the first day. On a day in Florence where temperatures hit 37 degrees celsius, Lim insisted: 'I don't really like hot weather! Though it's very hard to find cool lightweight clothing for spring. But what I was want is very classic, but practical.' Presented inside the looming former train station, Stazione Leopoldo, the cast marched out to the dramatic sounds of "Buka" by pianist Hania Rani. Full marks for some simple but highly effective staging, courtesy of veteran show producer Thierry Dreyfus. Using the full length the station, each figure silhouetted before a light-filled back wall. On the runway multiple trickles of sand – like from an hourglass – fell to create small islands to circumnavigate. Asked how he wanted his audience to react, Lim responded: 'I'd like to think that they will be drifting both physically and in their imagination.' Which they very probably were.
