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USA Today
09-07-2025
- Business
- USA Today
Oldest restaurant in Los Angeles, claimed creator of French dip, to close
LOS ANGELES – The oldest restaurant in Los Angeles is set to close in the latest blow to the historic dining scene in the City of Angels. Cole's French Dip will close on Aug. 3 after 117 years of operation that included prohibition, two world wars and the rise of Hollywood. The news was first reported by DTLA Weekly and confirmed by USA TODAY in a July 7 visit. Owner Cedd Moses cited ongoing impacts from the COVID-19 pandemic, the 2023 writers and actors strikes as well as rising labor and rent costs in a statement provided to The Los Angeles Times. "The litany of reasons for closing are not unique to Cole's alone; they are affecting most independent restaurants in Los Angeles," Moses said in the statement. USA TODAY reached out to Pouring With Heart, the parent company of Cole's which operates other restaurants in California, Colorado and Texas, and did not receive an immediate response. The restaurant follows in the recent closure of The Original Pantry, which closed in March after 101 years, and the demolition of the Pacific Dining Car the same month. "By the time the Olympics get here, all these mom and pops will be gone," Moses said in the statement. "Hopefully it's a wake up call for the right people to step up and figure out a plan." Restaurant intertwined with Los Angeles history Cole's was opened by Harry Cole in 1908 in the Pacific Electric Building, once the terminus of the city's once ubiquitous Red Car trolley line. "Located near the financial center of the city, the place became a haunt for bankers, attorneys, newspaper types and politicians – as well as more respectable folks," Steve Harvey of the Los Angeles Times wrote of the restaurant's early days in 2009. It closed in 2007 before being purchased by Moses's 213 Nightlife, which would become Pouring With Heart, in 2008. The company completed a $1.6 million restoration which focused on keeping the historic environment. "Too bad Mickey Cohen isn't around anymore," Harvey wrote. "One can imagine the mobster admiring the handiwork of the bartenders with their ice picks." The Varnish, a speakeasy built in a former storage room, opened in 2009 and would redefine the Los Angeles nightlife scene. The bar, once a haunt of the dean of Los Angeles food writing Jonathan Gold, closed in 2024. Cole's claim of French dip invention challenged It is one of two restaurants in Los Angeles that claims to be the originator of the French dip sandwich. The other, Phillipe the Original, is less than two miles from Cole's. Cole's claims that in 1908, the chef dipped a sandwich in aus-jus to soften it for a customer who had bad gums. Phillepe's claims that in 1918, Philippe Mathieu dropped a French roll into a roasting pan filled with juices. The officer took the sandwich and returned the next day with friends to order more. However, Phillepe's has offered different versions of its claim, with co-owner Mark Massengill saying on a 2014 episode of "Cheap Eats" that the sandwich was born when in 1917, when Mathieu dropped the roll while making a sandwich for a firefighter. In 1951, Mathieu told the Los Angeles Times that the police officer story now offered by the restaurant is one half of the tale. "One day a police officer asked me if I would mind splitting one of these large loaves of French bread and filling it with 'some of the delicious roast pork,'" Mathieu said. The dip part came later. "One day a customer saw some gravy in the bottom of a large pan of roast meat. He asked me if I would mind dipping one side of the French roll in that gravy. I did, and right away five or six others wanted the same," Mathieu told the Times. The debate over who invented the French dip – and who makes the better sandwich – has been a long-running part of Los Angeles food culture. A March 2016 Thrillist deep dive into the origins of the sandwich point toward Mathieu's 1951 retelling being the likeliest origin story.

Miami Herald
08-07-2025
- Business
- Miami Herald
Oldest LA restaurant permanently closing after 117 years
It is uncommon for a restaurant to stay in business for over a century, so when one is open for that long, it becomes a local legend and everyone's go-to hangout spot. Every city and town has a much-loved local restaurant that has stood the test of time, a place where many have created lasting memories and fostered meaningful connections. Don't miss the move: Subscribe to TheStreet's free daily newsletter Although it's sad when a place that brought us so much joy closes forever, this unfortunate event has become increasingly common in the restaurant sector. Related: After bankruptcy, closed clothing chain hints at comeback Running a restaurant is no piece of cake, especially in today's uncertain economy and amid a consumer slowdown that has been so disruptive, even major restaurant chains have been forced to close locations or file for bankruptcy. Now, a local LA favorite has reached the end of its long-lived run after 117 years in business. Image Source: Shutterstock Cole's French Dip was established in 1908 by Harry Cole inside the historic Pacific Electric Building, making it the oldest public house in Los Angeles. The restaurant has become one of the most iconic eateries in the city because it claims to have invented the French dip sandwich after the house chef, Jack Garlinghouse, dipped bread in meat broth (the "jus" accompanying a sandwich served "au jus") to make it easier for customers with sensitive gums to chew. However, rival LA restaurant Philippe the Original has also claimed the title for years. More Food News: Wendy's quietly brings back unexpected menu item after 8-year hiatusStarbucks unveils huge store updates amid turnaround planMcDonald's brings back experimental menu item 13 years later In 2008, Pouring With Heart, previously called 213 Nightlife, acquired Cole's to continue the restaurant's legacy. It spent $1.6 million on renovations and brought in chef Neal Fraser to improve the original French dip recipe. Cole's is so iconic to LA culture that it has appeared in various classic films and shows, including "Forrest Gump," "The Lincoln Lawyer," and "Mad Men." After 117 years of serving French dip sandwiches to Los Angeles locals, Cole's French Dip announced that it will permanently close its doors on August 3. Unfortunately, being a local favorite didn't make the beloved restaurant immune to the aftermath of uncontrollable events, including the Covid pandemic, the SAG-AFTRA strikes of 2023, and steadily rising operational costs. Compounded by an uncertain economy, these challenges created a financial burden that ultimately proved unsustainable for Cole's, leaving it unable to pay rent. Related: Starbucks' huge new rival opens first US stores Although shocking to the entire community, this was a devastating event waiting to follow after Cedd Moses, the leading partner of Pouring With Heart, closed Varnish, a speakeasy inside Cole's, the year prior, after 15 years in business. "We have cherished our time serving the Downtown community, and will continue to craft great drinks and our renowned French dip sandwiches until we shutter. We care deeply about our family of staff and are immensely grateful for our amazing guests who have supported Cole's over the years," said Moses in a statement to Eater. Related: Veteran fund manager unveils eye-popping S&P 500 forecast The Arena Media Brands, LLC THESTREET is a registered trademark of TheStreet, Inc.