Latest news with #Prada
Hindustan Times
29 minutes ago
- Lifestyle
- Hindustan Times
Prada breaks silence on row over 'Kolhapuri chappals' featured in 2026 collection
Jun 28, 2025 11:10 AM IST Italian luxury fashion brand Prada has confirmed that its Spring/Summer 2026 menswear line includes footwear inspired by Kolhapuri chappals. The statement comes amid growing criticism in India over the brand's use of the traditional design without acknowledging its roots. Prada credits Kolhapuri chappals after cultural appropriation row(Representative image/HT Photo) 'Kolhapuri chappals inspiration for footwear featured in our Milan show,' the company said, reported news agency PTI. The open-toe leather sandals showcased at the Milan Fashion Week closely resemble Kolhapuris — handcrafted leather footwear made by artisans in Maharashtra and Karnataka for generations. Prada's response follows backlash on social media and concerns raised by Indian officials, who accused the brand of cultural appropriation and failing to credit the legacy and craftsmanship behind the traditional design.
Time of India
an hour ago
- Business
- Time of India
Prada bows to massive online backlash! Italian brand forced to credit Kolhapuri chappal designs; legal options being mulled in India
The Kolhapuri chappals received GI designation on December 11, 2018. Prada, the Italian high-end fashion brand, has confirmed that their upcoming Spring Summer 2026 menswear line incorporated designs influenced by Kolhapuri chappals, addressing the controversy that caused significant displeasure in India and sparked discussions about cultural appropriation. The leather sandal with open toes presented by Prada shows striking similarities to the heritage leather footwear that artisans have crafted for generations in Maharashtra and Karnataka. The reaction comes following social media criticism and official pressure regarding the failure to credit Indian craftsmen and cultural legacy of the design at the Milan event. Responding to ET's enquiry, the organisation emphasised its dedication to celebrating artisanal expertise, legacy and design customs. The company reportedly said: "Prada acknowledges that sandals inspired by traditional Indian footwear made in specific districts in Maharashtra and Karnataka, India, were featured in its Men's 2026 Spring Summer show in Milan. We are committed to responsible design practices, fostering cultural engagement, and opening a dialogue for a meaningful exchange with local Indian artisan communities as we have done in the past in other collections to ensure the rightful recognition of their craft. by Taboola by Taboola Sponsored Links Sponsored Links Promoted Links Promoted Links You May Like Bring home all new SP125 & get an instant cashback up to ₹5000# Honda Learn More Undo We are in contact with the Maharashtra Chamber of Commerce, Industry &Agriculture on this topic." Legal Action Against Prada? According to the financial daily's report, the Sant Rohidas Leather Industries & Charmakar Development Corporation (LIDCOM), which shares geographical indication (GI) certification for Kolhapuri chappals with Karnataka's LIDKAR, is considering legal measures. The Kolhapuri chappals received GI designation on December 11, 2018, including eight districts—four each in Maharashtra and Karnataka. The craft industry's substantial size contrasts with merely 95 artisans registered as authorised GI users. "There is a lack of awareness about what GI registration offers," noted an official from the state's industries department. Also Read | Pulse, the Re 1 candy, now a multi-crore revenue generator! How DS Group aims to make it a Rs 1,000 crore brand Although registered proprietors (LIDCOM and LIDKAR) and authorised users have legal rights to initiate proceedings within India's borders, GI marks currently lack international legal safeguards. Maharashtra's industry department has engaged in talks with LIDCOM, according to industry secretary P Anbalagan. A senior LIDCOM representative was quoted in the report as saying, "We are in the process of making some decisions, and legal recourse will certainly be involved." The official added, "Since the company is based in Italy, we are evaluating the legal options available in this situation. If required, LIDCOM will approach the appropriate channel through India's ministry of commerce." A Maharashtra government official said: "Prima facie, a vendor should not be using GI-registered name, logo, or invoicing product under GI identity". Legal specialists indicate that India's Geographical Indication regulations safeguard registered products from unauthorised commercial usage of their names or implied origins, but not from design imitation. IP lawyer Priyanka Khimani says that proprietors can enhance protection by securing trademark registration for their name/logo in foreign jurisdictions. Also Read | 'Biggest risk of my life': Mukesh Ambani says even if Reliance Jio would have failed, it would have been 'worth it'; told board 'in worst case…' "Borrowing the style without using the GI name in trade does not necessarily violate GI provisions," Khimani told ET. "Unless Prada markets or sells these sandals using the word 'Kolhapuri' or implies a link to Kolhapur's craftsmanship, there is no legal recourse." Nevertheless, Khimani highlighted the ethical considerations. "There is a responsibility on international fashion houses to acknowledge the cultural heritage they borrow from. It would be meaningful for both brands and artisans if there was transparent commercial collaboration and due credit." Organisations such as Nabard provide assistance in post-GI registration activities, including artisan enrolment and marketing seminars, whilst state-level implementation can facilitate these results. Khimani suggests that GI-registered proprietors could enhance their global protection by registering associated marks and names as trademarks internationally. For instance, the Tea Board has secured trademark/certification trademark registrations for marks related to 'Darjeeling Tea' in various nations. Stay informed with the latest business news, updates on bank holidays and public holidays . AI Masterclass for Students. Upskill Young Ones Today!– Join Now
Economic Times
4 hours ago
- Business
- Economic Times
Chic can be local, it must go global, too
When models strut down the Prada Spring/Summer 2026 runway in Kolhapuri chappals - rebranded as 'leather flat sandals' and priced at a cool ₹1.2 lakh a pair - it kicks up the usual storm over cultural appropriation, or 'theft', as some call it. While the outrage over 'stealing our art' is understandable, the question is: what's stopping us from turning handicrafts into high fashion through savvy marketing? India is a treasure trove of traditional art, ready to be monetised. Consumers are willing to pay more for fashion - if they're told why it's fashionable. Creativity in the business is as much about shaping the narrative as it is about aesthetic identity. Instead of a chappal, choli or dupatta being inserted into a Western canvas, the chic can be mainstreamed in its native habitat - for global consumption. To scale in value, Indian handicrafts must plug into the high-fashion distribution network. This calls for closer interaction between European labels and Indian artisans. The higher value delivered by the Veblen effect - where demand increases with price - may not be shared equally, but some of it will accrue to workmanship. A lehenga crafted to meet quality standards acceptable to international buyers benefits the entire value chain. Handicrafts can reinvent themselves through production methods that add value. High fashion, in turn, lowers the cost of creative inspiration. This model marks an improvement over the existing global supply chain, where design is retained in consuming economies and production is outsourced. As a result, designers and producers lose some skin in the game. But as more production markets evolve into fashion consumption markets, aesthetic choices shift accordingly. Instead of functioning as a two-way street - with ideas flowing in one direction and products in the other - the fashion industry could operate more effectively as clusters. These clusters need not be located only where the clients are; they can also form around skills. It's about finding greater efficiency in design, production and distribution.
Indian Express
4 hours ago
- Business
- Indian Express
Why Kolhapuri chappal makers can only claim credit, not compensation
The Italian luxury fashion house Prada stirred up more than a storm when it had its models launch the men's spring-summer collection for 2026 wearing leather slippers strikingly similar to Kolhapuri chappals — open-toe, T-strap sandals that have been worn across India for centuries. Kolhapuri chappals have the geographical indication (GI) tag that certifies how a product originates from a specific geographical area and possesses qualities or a reputation because of that origin. A GI tag helps preserve traditional knowledge, cultural heritage, and the livelihoods of its local practitioners. Although Prada doesn't call the footwear Kolhapuri or credit their origin as an inspiration for their line, it is reported to be selling them at many times the price for which one can typically buy a pair in India. The manufacturers of Kolhapuri chappals are reportedly planning to move court against Prada's allegedly unethical business practice. The chappal makers argue that the design of Prada's footwear amounts to cultural appropriation, and a violation of the GI tag because it is too close to the original Kolhapuri. What does cultural appropriation mean? Cultural appropriation, in this current context, refers to the practice of a designer or fashion house taking elements from another culture and incorporating them into their work, often claiming they were acting unknowingly. 'This is not the first time that Western fashion houses have acted this way,' IP lawyer Safir Anand, senior partner & Head of Trademarks, Commercial & Contractual IP, at intellectual property law firm Anand and Anand, said. For example, Gucci was called out for offering a floral embroidery organic linen kaftan, which looked like a kurta, and was being sold for thousands of dollars. Similarly, Louis Vuitton tried to sell a keffiyeh-inspired scarf. 'While borrowing from cultures is definitely a part of the creative process, any brand or designer, who is inspired by traditional craftsmanship, must seek consent, and offer compensation and credit,' Anand said. On what basis is a GI tag awarded, and what protections does it offer? Anand listed the following key points. * Geographical Origin Link: The product must originate from a specific place and its quality, reputation, or characteristics must be essentially attributable to that geographical origin. * Defined Production Standards: Detailed production methods, materials and quality benchmarks must be specified in the application. * Registered Proprietors & Authorized Users: Only those entities (for example, producer groups, associations, or cooperative societies) who are registered as authorized users can legally use the GI. * Prohibition on Transferability: GI tags are non-transferable and cannot be licensed like trademarks. * Enforcement and Monitoring: Owners and governments are expected to monitor misuse and initiate legal action against counterfeiting or false usage. * No Generic Term Usage: A GI should not be or become a generic name for a product. So can the makers of Kolhapuri chappals claim a violation of the GI tag in this case? A GI infringement case may not be sustainable, Anand said. 'They (the aggrieved party) can file a suit but that will be limited to claiming credit only. They cannot claim monetary compensation,' Anand said. Prada can argue that it has not used the word Kolhapuri, or claimed its manufacturing process, he said. According to Anand, a culturally sensitive designer or brand must acknowledge the heritage behind their designs and duly credit the culture bearer, both financially and otherwise. 'The best practice to ensure creative authenticity is to obtain permission before using any cultural element, be it a motif, silhouette, or so forth, as part of your design or collection,' he said. Why is it so difficult to protect traditional crafts? Protecting traditional crafts is difficult primarily because the intellectual property (IP) systems that exist today — like patents, trademarks, or copyrights — were designed for individual innovation, not collective heritage. 'IP protections and systems require a known, identifiable creator or inventor. Traditional crafts are usually created collectively by a community over time. Traditional crafts are ancient, widely known, and already in the public domain, so they fail the novelty test. Many traditional crafts are passed down orally, without records, drawings, or technical details. IP systems rely heavily on documentation to verify and protect rights. Most IP protections, except trademarks, have a smaller life of protection, whereas traditional crafts need perpetual protection, which is incompatible with such limits,' Anand said. How then can cultural appropriation be prevented or discouraged? Apart from the GI tag, some countries are drafting specific laws for traditional knowledge and cultural expressions. 'Communities should also consider documenting and registering their crafts at local or national levels, wherever the option is available, to assert moral and economic rights. Ethical and Fair-Trade Labelling also helps create consumer awareness and encourage fair compensation for artisans,' Anand said. Some international organisations, such as the WIPO (World Intellectual Property Organization), are working on an international legal instrument for protecting traditional knowledge and traditional cultural expressions.
Indian Express
4 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Indian Express
Prada reps kolhapuri chappals: Grace is always in vogue
Long before it gave its name to one of the most iconic patterns in fashion, Paisley was just another Scottish town. Its star rose in the 19th century, when it became so well-known for its imitation Kashmiri shawls that the shawls' traditional 'buta' pattern was soon named 'paisley'. This erasure of the pattern's origin, removing it from the specific cultural context in which it was first created — the 'buta' is said to be inspired by the shape of either a pinecone or mango — makes it an early instance of cultural appropriation. But is this also what is happening with the footwear — strongly resembling Kolhapuri chappals — that the Italian fashion house Prada featured as part of its Spring-Summer 2026 collection this week? In its show notes, Prada described the footwear as 'leather sandals', with no reference to an Indian connection. This has infuriated many in India's fashion community as well as traditional makers of Kolhapuri chappals. The history of fashion, of course, is one of crosscurrents and confluences, with textiles, motifs and styles passing from region to region, and wardrobe staples in one place inspiring luxury creations in another. But fashion labels in the West have a history of appropriating and flattening different cultures — often tipping over into controversy, such as when Gucci sent out models wearing Sikh-style turbans in 2016. This understandably leads to wariness among designers and craftspeople in the Global South. Change, however, is already underway, with labels like Dior and Louboutin starting to look for collaborators, not just ideas, in other cultures — the former worked with Mumbai's Chanakya School of Craft for its pre-fall 2023 line, while the latter teamed up with designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee for a capsule collection in 2017. With Prada yet to make the details of its latest collection public, it still has the chance to give credit where it's due. Grace, after all, is one of those things that never go out of style.
