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Hindustan Times
17-07-2025
- Hindustan Times
Wild gourmet: India's most luxe meals, from its farthest locations
Those who profess a love for food like to brag about the lengths they'll go to for a memorable meal. That little 12-seater Mumbai restaurant everyone's been trying to get into for months. That chic Indian-Japanese place in Delhi that will be the next big thing. The Michelin-level pop-up in Bengaluru that cost ₹60,000 a seat. The secret offal menu that only in-the-know diners get at that bistro in Goa… Palaash serves a bush dinner right in the middle of a luxury retreat bordering Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary. Some lengths are literal. Indian diners have been travelling to far-flung locations, sometimes making an overnight trip, just to have a good meal. Naar, Prateek Sadhu's award-winning restaurant in Kasauli, 60km from Chandigarh, is probably the best known. But little gems are thriving as far away as Arunachal Pradesh and the India-Pakistan border. They're a world away from the rushed, trendy kitchens of the big city. And they're uniquely challenging to run. Here's where to book your next food pilgrimage. Damu's Heritage Dine in the Chug Valley spotlights the food of the Monpa people. (PRIANKO BISWAS) Damu's Heritage DineChug Valley, Arunachal PradeshNearest city: Itanagar, 317km away ₹1,500 for an eight-course meal Public transportation isn't easy to come by in Arunachal Pradesh. But a taxi from Dirang town, eight kilometres away, will bring you to a village of mud and stone settlements in the lush Chug Valley. At Damu's, set amid paddy and corn fields, there's only one thing on the menu: An eight-course meal, spotlighting the food of the Monpa, a community from the state's Tawang and West Kameng districts. Look out for phurshing gombu. The charcoal-roasted ragi or cornflour tartlet, infused with yak butter and a kind of resin, is epic. The ingredient is made using highly allergic sap from the Chinese lacquer tree. Only one man in the village is skilled in extracting it without breaking into hives. How's that for a rare treat? Damu's, just about a year old, seats 12, and operates out of a century-old home. It's helmed by eight Monpa women, who manage restaurant work alongside their domestic responsibilities. On the menu are shya marku (yak meat with butter and ginger), baksa marku (a sweetened pasta), rakshi (a heady spirit served with yak ghee), buckwheat tacos and orange millet cakes. It's all local, sustainable, and foraged just before the guests arrive. Damu's dishes are all local, sustainable, and foraged just before the guests arrive. (TASHDIQUE AHMED) Damu's only takes bookings a day in advance, so the women can set aside time for it all. It's booked all through the tourist season, October to April. They've fed visitors from India's metros, as well as guests from as far away as Mexico, Japan, and Malaysia. There's no marketing budget. The place relies on social-media shares and word-of-mouth recommendations. Still, Nishant Sinha, coordinator of community-based tourism for WWF-India, says they often have to turn walk-in diners away because the kitchen hadn't accounted for them. 'It's a challenge,' he admits. 'But we wish to cater to those who value such an elaborate and intricate experience.' Few Monpa women have travelled outside their state. Most don't speak English (they do speak Hindi), so Leiki Chomu, the restaurant's manager, steps in with international guests. But the crew take naturally to hospitality and management. They handle the finances too, splitting revenues to reinvest in the business and support WWF-India's Community Conserved Areas initiative, which helps local communities benefit through heritage conservation. Last year, they contributed ₹40,000. The women started out with the aim of making ₹500 a day, without having to do backbreaking work. How are they faring? Damu's made ₹1.6 lakh last month. 'The best part is that June is generally off season for tourism in Arunachal Pradesh.' The Balti Farm in Ladakh seats 12 for lunch. Seats are booked a day in advance. (THE BALTI FARM) The Balti Farm at Virsa BaltistanTurtuk, LadakhNearest city: Leh, 205km away ₹4,000 for a seven-course meal Not much happens in Turtuk. The hamlet, nestled in an alpine valley between the Himalayas and the Karakoram, is one of the last pitstops this side of the India-Pakistan border. It's one of four Balti villages in India and only became part of our map in 1971. When it's not outright icy, it's chilly. It's so remote that hiring hospitality professionals is nearly impossible. So, at the boutique hotel Virsa Baltistan, a former driver is now a barista, an erstwhile mechanic is a steward, a onetime clerk handles the operations. 'They may be unfamiliar with luxury, but they respect the place and are honest and loyal,' says the hotel's owner Rashidullah Khan. And they're not short on ambition. Khan's hotel serves everything, from sushi to fancy coffee. At Balti Farm, the multi-course menu includes local specialties such as kisirnagrang-thur (buckwheat pancakes in herbed curd), praku (thumb-pinched pasta in a walnut sauce) and phading (apricots cooked with basil leaves). Local women prepare it all. 'They have their own household responsibilities and leave for namaaz in the evenings, so we only open for the afternoon meal,' Khan says. The restaurant serves everything, from sushi to local specialties. (THE BALTI FARM) Lunch seats 12. Seats are booked a day in advance. The trappings – small portions, fancy presentation, courses one after the other – puzzle the women. 'They joke with me, saying that food needs to be chewed like an animal and eaten with your hands. They think I am stingy and should serve the guests more generously.' Guests, however, don't seem to mind. The Balti Farm experience has been popular since it was launched in 2018. And Khan plans carefully, building the shopping list a month in advance and sourcing his Japanese ingredients from a specific store in Delhi. 'If the fish supply is impacted, we substitute it with fresh river fish. When avocadoes were not available for the sushi, we made it with apricot.' And in the snowy off-season, Khan travels to restaurants across India, to ensure that dining standards match up back home. A plant-based menu with indigenous herbs and rare flowers is coming soon. Meanwhile, Khan is keen to revive one aspect of Turtuk's Silk Route history: The barter system. 'Perhaps we can work with suppliers to trade apricots from here for coffee beans from Chikmagalur?' Amninder Sandhu with the all-women team of Palaash. They source ingredients from their own garden. PalaashTipai, MaharashtraNearest city: Nagpur, 180km away ₹4,500 for a seven-course meal From 2010 to 2017, Amninder Sandhu ran a bustling restaurant in her hometown of Jorhat, Assam, on the banks of the Brahmaputra. But Jorhat felt too small for her ambition. So, in October 2023, she set up Palaash, right in the middle of a luxury retreat bordering Tipeshwar Wildlife Sanctuary, serving a bush dinner for 12 in a grove so quiet, you can hear nocturnal animals take over the forest as the evening gives way to night. Palaash serves food from Maharashtra, Madhya Pradesh and Andhra Pradesh. But it is two-and-a-half hours away from the nearest bazaar. So, the all-women team sources ingredients from the restaurant's garden and neighbouring farms, and cooks everything gas-free – on chulhas, sigris, a tandoor, a robata grill, and a 'cool underground pit' for meats. Diners from as far away as Assam and the US have booked seats to try the raan in a jowar bhakri tortilla and laal thecha, and the ambaadi chaat (a sweet and tangy pineapple granita, topped with dahi and a crisp ambadi leaf, tamarind pearls and ambadi bud dust). Everything is cooked on chulhas, sigris, a tandoor, or an underground pit. Working away from the buzz, and with women who haven't seen a commercial kitchen, has been an adventure, Sandhu says. 'The women were shy and didn't think the food they made was significant.' She had to teach them prep and plating techniques. 'Vocabulary I took for granted – whisk, offset spatula, chopping board – was unfamiliar to them,' she recalls. Where they scored was their comfort with local fuels, and their consistency borne from experience. Sandhu saw them make perfectly uniform, round rotis, an undervalued skill in modern cooking. The region poses challenges. 'It's arid. You can't go foraging, like in the hills, and find 10 ingredients,' Sandhu says. So, courses are tweaked depending on the season. Diners in winter get the indrayani rice steamed in turmeric leaves. In the summer, the rice is wrapped in pumpkin leaves. The women have figured out their operations over two years. 'I travel in once a week or once a month,' Sandhu says. 'It is these women that run Palaash. I've never heard any negative customer feedback.' Paeru at Mharo Khet is located on a 40-acre farm. Paeru at Mharo KhetManaklao, RajasthanNearest city: Jodhpur, 25km away ₹4,500 for nine courses The tomato tartar on the menu is subtitled simply: Strawberry, chamomile, nasturtium. Don't expect a salad. What emerges from the kitchen is a cold soup made through a three-day anaerobic fermentation process, in which bacteria from the tomatoes reacts with sugar in the strawberries. 'I am certain that most diners do not realise the in-depth science and effort behind making this,' says Rajnush Agarwal, who runs Mharo Khet, the 40-acre farm at the edge of the Thar desert, that serves the unusual dish. Mharo Khet started out as a fresh-produce delivery service in 2020. Now, it has 10 luxury cottages, does tours and serves a sold-out lunch and dinner service called Paeru. It ticks all the boxes for fussy diners. It's plant-forward, it's set in a guava orchard, it's a blind menu (guests don't know what's being served until they're at the table). There might be jowar tostadas one day; a beetroot ceviche with goat cheese, another. Descriptions are rarely literal. Rajasthan's familiar pyaaz ki kachori is served as a shortcrust tartlet, with tempered potatoes, onion jam and a jalapeño thecha. 'Our visitors appreciate the innovative reimagining of traditional dishes,' Agarwal says. Rajasthan's pyaaz ki kachori is served as a shortcrust tartlet, with tempered potatoes and onion jam. Behind the scenes, everyone's been learning. Locals are taught that less is more while plating a multi-course meal, that texture matters as much as flavour, that it's possible to go overboard on the edible-flower garnishes. And in a dry region, every harvest calls for quick math. 'If there are 20 diners and only 14 pieces of baby corn in the day's yield, that dish must be changed,' Agarwal says. In the first few years, the kitchen simply worked by candlelight when the power would go out. Now, there's a back-up generator. Some city diners still drop in with special requests at the last minute. 'It took time for people to understand that a specialty, multi-course dining establishment is different from a typical F&B outlet.' From HT Brunch, July 19, 2025 Follow us on
India.com
26-06-2025
- Business
- India.com
This Indian restaurant ranked 68th in the World's 50 Best Restaurants list; it's located in…, the name is…
A prestigious global culinary ranking recently revealed its much-anticipated list, spotlighting its brilliance worldwide. While top 50 spots were dominated by elite kitchens across Europe and South America, one Indian name quietly but confidently secured its place within the top 100. Without flashy promotion or extravagant gimmicks, this establishment's focus on innovation, rooted tradition, and flavor precision helped it earn global acclaim. Amid fierce international competition, this Indian restaurant carved out space on the world stage where only the finest dine. Mumbai's Renowned Food Establishment: Masque Here we are talking about Masque, Mumbai's top restaurant, which has achieved an impressive milestone by ranking 68th on the World's 50 Best Restaurants Extended List (positions 51–100), making it the sole Indian establishment to appear in the global rankings this year. Founded in 2016 by Prateek Sadhu and Aditi Dugar, Masque is famous for its hyper-seasonal 10-course tasting menus made from native Indian ingredients. Located in a renovated textile mill, the restaurant has consistently built a reputation for leading the way in modern Indian cuisine. After Chef Varun Totlani took charge of the kitchen following Sadhu's exit in 2022, Masque has continued to progress under the guidance of Dugar, a self-taught chef and entrepreneur. The Number One Spot Has Been Achieved By… This year, Maido, a renowned restaurant in Lima led by chef Mitsuharu 'Micha' Tsumura, tops the prestigious rankings. It is celebrated for its perfect combination of Japanese cooking methods and the rich variety of Peruvian ingredients, earning the title of The World's Best Restaurant 2025. Upon arrival, guests are welcomed with the word 'Maido', a traditional Japanese greeting, before starting a culinary adventure that showcases the treasures of Peru's Amazon. Dishes like a pork jowl parcel with palm heart and sustainable paiche 'ham' demonstrate the restaurant's commitment to respecting local ecosystems while providing exceptional flavors. More About The List On June 19 in Turin, Italy, a grand ceremony revealed the 2025 list of top dining spots from 22 countries. This selection was made by a panel of 1,120 food industry experts globally. Since 2002, the World's 50 Best Restaurants has honored culinary excellence worldwide, with rankings based on the votes of 1,080 culinary experts from 27 regions. Each panelist, including food writers, critics, chefs, restaurateurs, and experienced gourmets, casts ten votes, creating a snapshot of outstanding dining locations and reflecting international food trends.
Indian Express
24-06-2025
- Business
- Indian Express
No Indian restaurant features on The World's 50 Best Restaurants list, but one makes it to the 68th position
Mumbai's acclaimed restaurant Masque has achieved a significant milestone by securing the 68th position on The World's 50 Best Restaurants Extended List for 2025, marking it as the only Indian restaurant to feature on the prestigious global ranking. No other Indian establishment made it to the top 50 list or the extended 51-100 rankings. The prestigious awards ceremony, held in Turin, Italy, celebrated culinary excellence worldwide. Masque's recognition at 68th position makes it arguably India's most forward-thinking restaurant, showcasing the country's fresh produce, extracting maximum flavour from local ingredients in a 10-course tasting menu served in a stylish former Mumbai textile mill. Peru's Maido, led by chef Mitsuharu 'Micha' Tsumura, claimed the coveted top spot in 2025. It was followed by Asador Etxebarri in Spain and Quintonil in Mexico City. The list also spotlighted culinary trailblazers beyond the realm of European fine dining, applauding their innovation and use of fresh local ingredients. Masque is an Indian restaurant in Mumbai, Maharashtra, founded by Prateek Sadhu and Aditi Dugar in 2016. With self-taught cook and entrepreneur Aditi Dugar at the helm, Masque has won a string of accolades since opening. After the departure of founding chef Prateek Sadhu in 2022, the culinary reins are now in the skilled hands of Varun Totlani. A post shared by In Your District MUM (@ The restaurant has earned recognition for its innovative approach to Indian cuisine. Under the current culinary direction of head chef Varun Totlani, the restaurant showcases India's diverse produce through modern techniques. Ingredient-focused creations feature dishes like lamb brain paniyaram and turmeric scampi, while the vegetarian menu highlights options such as sweet potato paniyaram and morel with gutti aloo. The World's 50 Best Restaurants has been celebrating global culinary excellence since 2002, with its rankings determined by a panel of 1,080 culinary experts across 27 voting regions worldwide. Each panelist, comprising food writers, critics, chefs, restaurateurs, and well-travelled gourmets, contributes ten votes to create what serves as both a snapshot of exceptional dining destinations and a barometer for international gastronomic trends. Masque's recognition on the global stage represents not just personal achievement for its team, but also signals the growing international appreciation for contemporary Indian cuisine that honours traditional ingredients while embracing innovative presentation and techniques.
NDTV
05-06-2025
- Business
- NDTV
Mumbai's Masque Ranked 68th On This Global List Of Best Restaurants For 2025
Mumbai's Masque has won yet another culinary accolade. It has been ranked 68th globally by a prestigious organisation. The World's 50 Best Restaurants just announced its extended list of establishments ranked from 51 to 100. Masque is the only Indian restaurant to be featured on it. The list includes restaurants in 37 cities across six continents. Masque is one of nine entries from Asia. Last year, it was a new entry on the same list, and it occupied the 78th position overall. Also Read: This South Indian Restaurant Has Been Ranked No. 1 In New York For 2025 The World's 50 Best noted, "Arguably India's most forward-thinking restaurant, Masque's raison d'etre is to show off the wealth of the country's produce, extracting maximum flavour from local ingredients in a 10-course tasting menu served in a stylish former Mumbai textile mill. With self-taught cook and entrepreneur Aditi Dugar at the helm, Masque has won a string of accolades since opening in 2016. After the departure of founding chef Prateek Sadhu in 2022, the culinary reins are in the skilled hands of Varun Totlani." Masque was ranked 19th on the list of Asia's 50 Best Restaurants for 2025, and it was thus named the best restaurant in India for this year. It has emerged as the top restaurant in the country multiple times, based on rankings by the same list. The other Indian entry on the Asia list for 2025 was Indian Accent Delhi at the 46th position. The Asia edition also has an extended list, which features several Indian restaurants this year. Click here to read more. View this post on Instagram A post shared by The Worlds 50 Best Restaurants (@theworlds50best) While no restaurant located in India has made it to the 50 best list in recent times, Indian cuisine restaurants abroad have managed to do so. For instance, Gaggan in Bangkok and Tresind Studio in Dubai have frequently secured top positions. Here's The Extended List Of The World's Best Restaurants Ranked From 51 to 100 For 2025: 51. Alcalde, Guadalajara 52. Schloss Schauenstein, Furstenau 53. Den, Tokyo 54. El Chato, Bogota 55. La Colombe, Cape Town 56. Jordnaer, Copenhagen 57. Onjium, Seoul 58. Restaurant Tim Raue, Berlin 59. Nobelhart & Schmutzig, Berlin 60. Pujol, Mexico City 61. Nuema, Quito 62. Willem Hiele, Oudenburg 63. Bozar, Brussels 64. Fu He Hui, Shanghai 65. Quique Dacosta, Denia 66. Saint Peter, Sydney 67. Arca, Tulum 68. Masque, Mumbai 69. Hisa Franko, Kobarid 70. Tuju, Sao Paulo 71. Sazenka, Tokyo 72. Chef Tam's Seasons, Macau 73. Tantris, Munich 74. Mountain, London 75. Mil, Cusco 76. Leo, Bogota 77. Le Doyenne, Saint-Vrain 78. Cocina Hermanos Torres, Barcelona 79. Coda, Berlin 80. SingleThread, Healdsburg 81. Oteque, Rio de Janeiro 82. Fyn, Cape Town 83. A Casa do Porco, Sao Paulo 84. Aponiente, El Puerto de Santa Maria 85. Txitxpa, Atxondo 86. The Clove Club, London 87. Mugaritz, San Sebastian 88. Salsify at the Roundhouse, Cape Town 89. Huniik, Merida 90. Le Bernardin, New York 91. Koan, Copenhagen 92. Al Gatto Verde, Modena 93. Burnt Ends, Singapore 94. Meet the Bund, Shanghai 95. Evvai, Sao Paulo 96. Atelier Crenn, San Francisco 97. Labyrinth, Singapore 98. Cesar, New York 99. Amisfield Restaurant, Queenstown 100. Neolokal, Istanbul The awards ceremony for the World's 50 Best Restaurants 2025 will take place on June 19 in Turin, Italy.
