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Mint
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Mint
Beyond ‘pohe' and ‘misal', Pune's F&B scene gets a whole lot buzzier
There is a certain hum in the quiet lanes of Kalyani Nagar. As the weekend sets in, the upscale neighbourhood in Pune's eastern quarters comes alive with folks gathering over drinks and chatter. If you linger, you will notice the lively cocktail scene that everyone's been talking about — bar hopping feels natural. As a student back in the aughts, weekends usually meant queuing up for buttery bun maska and Irani chai at the legendary Vohuman Cafe. For dinner, there was Mysore masala dosa at Vaishali, or an occasional treat at Malaka Spice and Arthur's Theme. It's rather strange to return to Pune every few months now to find a glitzy bar or a swanky restaurant taking over the familiar streets and neighbourhoods. Over the last couple of decades, an IT and real estate boom followed by the pandemic, have amplified the city's culinary landscape, bringing in a young crop of chefs and restaurateurs, who are steering modern ideas and concepts for the increasingly discerning diner. The leafy lanes of Kalyani Nagar and Koregaon Park are now buzzing with cocktail bars and breweries. While on the other side of town in Deccan, Baner and Aundh, experimental restaurants driven by global inspiration are offering equal doses of nostalgia, storytelling and creativity. Hola Tomatillo from Juju. City-based restaurateur Karan Khilnani of ECO Hospitality, which owns the popular cocktail bars Elephant & Co. and Cobbler & Crew, says, 'When it comes to Kalyani Nagar, there is a dynamic crowd culture comprising corporates and young entrepreneurs, who are well travelled, have the spending power, and are also open about new experiences.' Since its opening in 2023, Cobbler & Crew has become the neighbourhood bar, where cocktails are concocted with Kolhapuri chilli and garnished with the classic Puneri bhakarwadi. The group also owns Juju next door, a Mexican-inspired bar known for its exhaustive agave-based drinks programme and smart tapas bites. 'Although the trend is that of cocktail bars, I wanted to open a restaurant where food was the highlight,' says Vardaan Marwah, chef and co-founder of Farro, where he draws inspiration from 'farro', an ancient grain that is commonly associated with Mediterranean cuisine. 'I did my research and decided to showcase the journey of the grain through different regions of the world, and also blend in my travel and childhood memories into the dishes,' he adds. Try the savoury jalebis piped with Parmesan batter, a 30-layer truffle latke, a take on the Jewish potato pancakes, sourdough flatbreads stuffed with baba ganoush and tempered with the Bengali five-spice mix panchphoron, and lamb terrine inspired by his grandmother's saag mutton. Negroni-spiced kingfish crudo at Nanna's Negroni. A similar approach nudged chef-restaurateur couple Ambar Rode and Damini Halli to open Nanna's Negroni in January. 'We wanted to create a space where food is the hero, and the cocktails are complimentary,' says Halli, who believes diners are now more curious about techniques and provenance of ingredients. Rode brings his French flair by focusing on slow cooking techniques such as curing, brining, fermentation, and confit to pack in maximum flavour. He uses cheese and peaches from Himachal, wheat from Punjab, trout from Kashmir, and seafood from the western coast, to plate up sourdough pizzas, handmade pastas, cured salmon, and a standout Negroni-spiced kingfish crudo. 'It makes sense because everyone is travelling more after covid. Even kids are watching MasterChef Australia these days,' says Rode. It's an exciting time for chefs and fermenters, who've spent years mastering their craft through extensive research trips and international training. In 2024, chef Gayatri Desai relaunched Ground Up with a fermentery, to make miso from scratch using native grains. On weekends, her test kitchen brings people together over unique tasting menus that spotlight hyperlocal ingredients sourced from all over the state as well as the North-East. At Gather, an all-day restaurant on Law College Road (that opened in January), head chef Hanoze Shroff has managed to get people talking about his deeply comforting, nostalgia-driven dishes. The joojeh kebabs, Japanese kare omelette, pork chilli fry and squid rechado are a few favourites from the menu. Andulasian spiced chicken tacos at Loco Otro. Breaking away from the mould was natural for chef Siddharth Mahadik (of the much-loved Le Plaisir), who opened his second restaurant Loco Otro in 2023. The idea was to offer shareable, tapas-style plates, in a setting that felt like a neighbourhood restaurant and bar. 'In a crowded and competitive industry, why should dining out follow rigid structures of starters and mains?' he says. From date nights to family reunions, Mahadik is excited to see his diners return for Andalusian spiced chicken tacos, eggplant feta rolls, and karela tacos, a take on his family recipe. In a city where diners hold on to nostalgia, brands are also finding their voice with experimental formats. At Aragma, chef Amit Ghorpade takes inspiration from his roots growing up in the hinterland of Maharashtra for his inventive tasting menus. 'The idea is to keep the integrity of our food traditions alive in a fun, aspirational way,' he says. Along with founder Poornima Somayaji, the duo wants to drive the conversation around the farmer and his produce and create contemporary plates 'not with caviar or yellowfin tuna', but with matki and pavta (types of beans), and leafy greens like shepu and millets. A highlight from the summer menu is a superlative ice-cream sandwich infused with chafa flowers (Magnolia champaca). Food at Gather. For years, Punekars relied on a certain version of south Indian food made popular by the city's many Udupi joints. And then We Idliwale arrived with its playful idli-curry combos. 'The awareness of regional south Indian food can be quite linear. Growing up, idli-chicken curry was a Sunday staple, so it's definitely not my twist,' says chef and co-founder Abhishek Joshi, who launched We Idliwale Barroom in 2023, to elevate the experience with innovative cocktails and rock n' roll playing in the background. 'People knew us for our food, but we also wanted them to come and party with us,' he adds. Go for the molgapodi cured bacon, ghee roast sausages, haleem toast, and Kerala toddy shop favourites, along with Negronis and highballs infused with kachampulli (vinegar), coconut and turmeric. Like any Indian metro, growing infrastructure and traffic chaos have impacted the eating-out culture in Pune. But all's well as long as there's good food and drinks to while away the weekend.
Indian Express
19-07-2025
- Business
- Indian Express
Around Town: From milk centre to misal to chicken biryani—How Dadar's 84-year-old Adarsha keeps evolving
In pre-Independence Bombay, a young Bhalchandra Panshikar (of the famous sweet shop Panshikars) had successfully established a milk and mithai business. At his suggestion, his cousin Tryambak Mirwankar purchased a shop in Dadar and set up a milk centre called Adarsha in 1941. They sourced milk from a gotha (cowshed) in Goregaon and sold it from their shop on Ranade Road. Given the shop's proximity to Dadar railway station, customers suggested that they serve tea—and perhaps a few biscuits to go with it. They complied. A decade later came the demand for a snack. Tryambak turned to his wife Sushila, who happily shared her recipe for kothimbir vadi. Crispy on the outside, soft and slightly gooey inside, with barely a trace of oil on the surface—it was an instant hit. The warm reception encouraged the addition of more Maharashtrian snacks: batata vada, thalipeeth, sabudana vada, kanda pohe, and upma followed. As the milk business thrived, sweets were added too, with mava barfi and peda earning a reputation of their own. 'Back when we started, eating out was frowned upon. It wasn't seen as a part of Indian culture or tradition,' said third-generation custodian Sanket Mirwankar, 39, recalling stories passed down from his grandfather and father. 'By the 1950s, people wanted a quick bite before boarding the trains. So they added a very small dining area. The need was still for something that could be packed and taken along or eaten quickly before dashing home. The idea of sitting down for a meal became more acceptable around the 1970s,' he said. The 1970s and '80s saw the entry of the second generation. Sanket's father, Narayan Mirwankar, and uncle Dattatray Mirwankar joined the business one after another and expanded the menu. 'They added pav bhaji, misal, Punjabi dishes, and expanded the dining area to seat around 30 people. The Maharashtrian thali came next, and suddenly, Adarsha was a full-fledged restaurant. By then, we'd stopped selling sweets, and milk was only used for in-house items like tea or piyush (a thick, creamy drink made by blending shrikhand with milk and flavoured with cardamom),' said Sanket. Today, Adarsha's misal is among its most sought-after dishes. They serve it two ways: the house-special sweet-and-sour Adarsha misal with minimal oil, and a spicier Puneri version, both priced at Rs 100. Sanket recalled how their misal was a favourite among Maharashtrian theatre actors. 'My father would say that after rehearsals at Shri Shivaji Mandir, actors like Ashok Saraf and Usha Nadkarni would stop by for our misal. It wasn't too spicy and used very little oil, which mattered to them because they wanted to preserve their voices. Then they'd walk straight to Dadar station—everyone took the train back then,' he said. Sanket is a hospitality graduate from Dadar Catering College (IHM Mumbai), and went on to pursue a Masters in Hospitality and worked in London for five years before returning to join the family business. When asked about the changes he brought to this 84-year-old eatery, he said: 'I made the entire restaurant air-conditioned and gave it a facelift. When Dadar gets chaotic during the festival season, they step into Adarsha and feel that wave of cool air—and they thank us.' Three years ago, when it reopened after Covid-19 led lockdown, Sanket made another bold move: he introduced a handful of non-vegetarian items. 'Some were sceptical, but most accepted it. In fact, on non-fasting days like Wednesday, Friday, and Sunday, our non-veg sales actually exceed the vegetarian ones,' he said, adding that their chicken biryani is now a hit. And what about his uncle's reaction? 'He was very supportive. We can't be prisoners of our own style. If we had stuck only to the milk business, we wouldn't be here today. Would we?' he asked as we concluded.
Indian Express
10-06-2025
- General
- Indian Express
Misal grabs 18th spot in TasteAtlas' ‘50 Best Breakfasts' list; how this humble Maharashtrian dish became a symbol of pride
Misal, chole bhature, and paratha, three beloved staples from Indian kitchens, have been named among the 50 Best Breakfasts in the World, as per the latest list released by TasteAtlas, a global food and travel guide. Misal secured the 18th spot, while paratha came in at 23rd, and chole bhature came in at 32nd. 'These are the best breakfasts of the world!' the caption mentions. While Turkey's Kahvaltı secured the top position, followed by Serbia's Komplet Lepinja, the recognition of Misal, chole bhature, and paratha reflects how deeply comforting and culturally significant Indian breakfasts are. Misal, a fiery and flavourful curry made with sprouted moth beans, topped with farsan and chopped onions, is often served with pav and a slice of lemon. Originally from Maharashtra, this dish is known for its spicy, tangy punch and regional variations. Its roots go beyond taste — it's a reflection of humble ingredients transformed into a hearty, energising start to the day. Alok Singh, expert on food history and science at Diga Organics, tells 'Misal's popularity stems from its deep roots in Maharashtrian working-class culture. It originated as a nourishing, protein-rich breakfast that provided lasting energy to labourers and farmers, especially in rural regions like Kolhapur. The combination of sprouted legumes, spicy gravy, farsan, and pav made it affordable and sustaining. Over time, misal evolved into a cultural staple, served in homes, canteens, and street stalls across the state.' A post shared by TasteAtlas (@tasteatlas) Its popularity is also linked to how it combines Maharashtra's love for spice, layered textures, and community-style eating. Even today, he says that a plate of misal is 'more than food; it's a symbol of regional pride, heritage, and hospitality.' The two most common variations are Kolhapuri and Puneri. Singh mentions that Kolhapuri misal is known for its fiery spice levels and robust flavour profile, reflecting the bold culinary traditions of southern Maharashtra. Puneri misal, on the other hand, is milder, slightly sweet, and often garnished with yoghurt, mirroring Pune's more subdued and refined palate. 'These variations reflect not just regional taste preferences but also each region's lifestyle, climate, and food philosophies. For instance, hotter regions often lean into spicier foods, while urban centers like Pune adapt traditional recipes with modern moderation. This diversity within a single dish like Misal showcases Maharashtra's rich culinary pluralism and its ability to localise flavour without compromising identity,' he informs. Preserving traditional cooking methods and ingredients is vital, not just for culinary heritage, but also for public health. Singh explains, 'The original Misal recipe uses sprouted moth beans, which are high in plant-based protein, fibre, and micronutrients. The preparation involves slow cooking, use of homemade spices, and minimal processing, all of which contribute to better nutrition.' He adds that as Indian breakfasts like Misal receive global attention, there's a risk of commercial versions diluting their nutritional value in favor of convenience. Preserving authenticity ensures that these dishes remain wholesome and rooted in local food wisdom. It also supports regional farmers and small-scale spice producers who form the backbone of India's food ecosystem. 'In a time where highly processed foods are linked to metabolic disorders, going back to our roots, literally and figuratively, could be one of the best health decisions we make as a society,' says the expert.
