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The Star
3 days ago
- Health
- The Star
Curious Cook: The magic of durian
For various reasons, I have not been able to return to the UK for four months, and oddly, one of the main things I really miss is the frozen durian from an Asian supermarket some 20 miles (12km) from my house there. Finding durian in France – especially in our remote rural village – is impossible. My only chance to reconnect with my favourite fruit is during visits to the UK. Durian is not cheap in the UK, around £23 (RM130) for a small box of frozen Musang King, but I make a couple of boxes last a while by blending it with ice cream (which must be the type made from full cream). It may sound bizarre, but even a small amount of well-mixed durian can enhance the flavours of many ice creams, especially salted caramel, cookies & cream, vanilla, strawberry, and pistachio. It even works with mint chocolate and coffee, though it can taste a tiny bit funky, but I still like it. I had not wondered before about the reasons why durian would enhance the flavours of ice creams until now, and it turned out the explanations are scientifically quirky and interesting. Lots of sulphur Nobody needs to be reminded that many Westerners would probably describe the smell of durians as a mix of sewage, garlic, and overripe fruit, or something along those lines. At best, they may say the odour is 'unique' and no one can possibly quibble with that. And to make it somewhat worse, the smell would linger for hours. In 2017, a team of researchers at the Malaysian Agricultural Research and Development Institute (MARDI) used gas chromatography-mass spectrometry to analyse the volatile compounds in durian pulp, particularly from the prized Durio zibethinus variety known as Musang King. The outcome was the discovery of over 50 volatile compounds, with complex sulphur-containing molecules featuring prominently. Examples are: • Ethanethiol: A highly volatile thiol with an intense odour of skunk. It is very odorous even in remarkably low concentrations. • Diethyl disulfide and diethyl trisulfide: These molecules contribute garlicky, onion-like aromas and are also found in cooked alliums like garlic and onions. • 1-(ethylsulfanyl)ethane-1-thiol: A rare thiol with both fruity and sulphurous notes, reflecting a complexity which captures the multifaceted sensory experience of durian. • Methanethiol: This compound is known as a key contributor to the smell of stinky farts and decaying seafood. • Hydrogen sulphide: The famous compound behind the smell of rotten eggs and decomposing food. • Acetoin and various esters: These compounds round out the aforementioned harsh sulphur notes with buttery and fruity scents. In short, durian can smell like sewage, but presented with a lovely buttery aroma. Surprisingly, many of these sulphur compounds are also found in high-end gourmet ingredients, such as black garlic, truffles, and aged cheeses. What sets durian apart is not just the presence of these molecules, but their unusually high concentrations and unique combinations, which creates a dramatic, often overpowering, olfactory impact. The magic of durian lies not just in its smell but how it reshapes our perception of taste. Photo: TOM FISK/Pexels This impact can be addictive or repulsive, and the outcome is usually determined by a person's background. Human noses can detect sulphur compounds at concentrations as low as a few parts per billion, making durian's scent impossible to ignore. Retro-nasal The magic of durian lies not just in its smell but in how it reshapes our perception of taste. The effect of durians is particularly dramatic also because our sense of taste is deeply intertwined with smell. When we eat, aroma molecules travel retro-nasally – through the back of the throat to the olfactory receptors – and this profoundly shapes how we perceive flavours. In a 2019 study published in Food Chemistry, researchers from the National University of Singapore found that the binding of durian's sulphur compounds to the olfactory receptors causes an interaction with the brain's gustatory cortex. This has the curious effect of amplifying significantly the intensity of other flavours in a dish. Additionally, the compounds stimulate the olfactory receptors in other unusual ways: 1. Sweetness enhancement: Neuroimaging studies using functional Magnetic Resonance Imaging have shown that intense aromas, even complex or borderline unpleasant ones, can activate the orbitofrontal cortex, a brain region involved in reward and decision-making. The brain's valuation system appears to be highly responsive to sulphur compounds such as ethanethiol, particularly when balanced with sugar and fat. This might explain why a durian custard can taste sweeter, feel richer or more decadent than a similar dessert made without it. 2. Umami boost: Some durian sulphur compounds interact with glutamate receptors, deepening savoury notes. This makes durian a surprising ingredient for umami-rich desserts, like durian caramel or chocolate truffles with durian. 3. Contrast effect: Durian's sulphurous undertones create a flavour tension that makes the contrast between sweet and fatty food elements more pronounced. This is similar to how honey or sweet chutneys served with blue/aged cheeses enhances a cheeseboard. It goes further. In addition to olfactory stimulation, thiols and sulphides also engage the trigeminal nerve, which senses chemical irritants (eg, menthol, capsaicin, wasabi, etc). Light trigeminal stimulation from durian's sulphur compounds can invoke a mild 'irritation response' that paradoxically enhances awareness of taste texture and contrast. It is a little like how spicy chilli often heightens the perception of flavour depth. Furthermore, a 2021 study in the Journal of Sensory Studies curiously found that introducing the aroma of durian alone can increase the perceived sweetness of a dish by up to 20%, even when sugar levels of the dish remain unchanged. Multisensory event The brain interprets flavour not as simple taste profiles, but as a multisensory event – a neural symphony of smell, taste, touch, sounds, and memory. In this context, it is plausible that durian is a master manipulator of some of our major experiences of flavour. • Olfactory coding: Olfactory receptor neurons are encoded to detect thousands of odorants, and durian's rich chemical makeup often overpowers this system. The sheer diversity of durian's molecular signals can overwhelm or enrich, depending on the individual's neural sensitivity and prior exposure. • Reward circuitry: The interaction of durian's aroma compounds with dopaminergic pathways helps explain its 'addictive' appeal to fans. In various studies, presenting small doses of durian to fans triggered powerful anticipatory pleasure sensations and salivation even before the durian is eaten. Introducing the aroma of durian can increase a person's perception of sweetness by 20%. • Memory and emotion: Because smell is closely tied to the limbic system, particularly the amygdala and hippocampus, even a fleeting whiff of durian may trigger intense emotional responses – revulsion, nostalgia, craving – depending on one's personal and cultural background. Nicer and funkier By now, you should have an inkling why the curious chemistry of durian can enhance the taste of other foods, and for example, why ice creams of different flavours can taste much nicer and funkier with a spoonful of durian mixed in. This may be considered a personal opinion, except that several of the best restaurants in Asia (mainly Singapore and Bangkok) are now adding durian compounds to their dishes to introduce unique taste and flavour sensations to their clients. And soon there may be durian culinary compounds available without the smell. A possible future As a peek into a plausible future, food technologists at Universiti Putra Malaysia (UPM) have pioneered a method to extract and refine durian's flavour compounds, selectively removing the fruit's notoriously pungent odour while preserving its creamy, umami-rich taste compounds. By isolating specific esters and reducing sulphur-based volatiles responsible for the strong smell, the researchers have created odour-mild durian extracts that retain the fruit's unique depth and texture. This innovation should soon open up new culinary possibilities, allowing durian to be used in foods that would otherwise be overwhelmed by its aroma. UPM has been researching and improving this technology since 2006 and hopefully their decades-long work will gain some critical commercial momentum soon. The refined durian extracts are designed to be incorporated into a variety of products. In cocktails, they can add a tropical creaminess and complexity without the off-putting scent. In vegan cheeses, durian's natural richness and umami mimic the mouthfeel and flavour of dairy, resulting in plant-based cheeses that are mild in smell but bold in taste. The extracts are also designed to be used in desserts, baked goods, and spreads, thanks to their versatility and ease of integration. The quirky appeal of these innovations may soon make durian more accessible to a global audience. Far from being a polarising delicacy, the compounds in durian may one day turn into a versatile ingredient for modern, health-conscious, and adventurous foodies around the world. If you have never tasted durian before, a suggestion would be to get some quality durian from an Asian supermarket, defrost a portion into a creamy paste, and mix it well into your favourite soft ice cream. At the very least, it would be an interesting introduction to the king of fruits if you have never tried the magic of durian before. The views expressed here are entirely the writer's own.
Barnama
7 days ago
- Business
- Barnama
Jerantut Square Project Set For Completion Next Year
JERANTUT, July 22 (Bernama) -- The Jerantut Square integrated development project is expected to be completed next year and bring significant benefits to the people of Pahang, especially in Jerantut, said Menteri Besar Datuk Seri Wan Rosdy Wan Ismail. He said the RM130 million project is expected to generate around 1,000 direct and 5,000 indirect job opportunities. 'The development will include office spaces and convenience stores. We've also engaged with businesses interested in operating here,' he said after officiating the Pahang State Development Corporation's (PKNP) 60th anniversary celebration at the Pahang Rest House @ Jerantut today.
The Sun
7 days ago
- Business
- The Sun
Jerantut Square project to complete next year, boosting Pahang economy
JERANTUT: The Jerantut Square integrated development project is on track for completion next year, promising major economic benefits for Pahang, particularly Jerantut. Menteri Besar Datuk Seri Wan Rosdy Wan Ismail confirmed the RM130 million initiative will generate approximately 1,000 direct and 5,000 indirect job opportunities. Wan Rosdy highlighted the project's commercial components, including office spaces and convenience stores, during the Pahang State Development Corporation's (PKNP) 60th anniversary celebration at the Pahang Rest House @ Jerantut. 'We've engaged businesses interested in operating here and will prioritise local entrepreneurs,' he said. The project aims to stimulate West Pahang's economy, with fast-track approvals for investors. 'We welcome investors and will streamline access to facilities,' Wan Rosdy added. At the same event, he launched the upgraded Pahang Rest House @ Jerantut, now offering tourist-friendly accommodations and an event hall. He encouraged Taman Negara visitors to utilise the facility. - Bernama
New Straits Times
26-06-2025
- Business
- New Straits Times
Digital investments exceed target
KUALA LUMPUR: Malaysia has attracted RM310.7 billion in digital investments from 2021 to March 2025, more than double the national target of RM130 billion, cementing its position as a fast-emerging digital infrastructure hub in Asia Pacific. According to Malaysian Investment Development Authority (MIDA) chief executive officer Datuk Sikh Shamsul Ibrahim Sikh Abdul Majid, these investments have generated over 92,000 jobs, particularly in high-demand fields such as cloud engineering, artificial intelligence (AI) and cybersecurity. The influx of capital was facilitated through the Digital Investment Office (DIO), a strategic collaboration between MIDA and the Malaysia Digital Economy Corporation (MDEC). Speaking at the Bursa Malaysia-Hong Leong Investment Bank Bhd (HLIB) Stratum Focus Series titled "Data Centre 2.0: The Ecosystem and What's Next for Malaysia?', Sikh Shamsul said Malaysia is now leading a new wave of next-generation digital infrastructure development. The sector is evolving beyond traditional co-location services toward generative AI, quantum computing, and large-scale automation. The shift to Data Centre 2.0 reflects Malaysia's growing maturity in digital infrastructure, he said. "Recent global shifts, such as the United States (US) Department of Commerce's recalibration on AI division rules, signal a deeper understanding that digital leadership cannot be siloed or reactive. It must be strategic, collaborative and bold. "For Malaysia, this is a call to action. We must continue to lead with agility, vision and policy for data centre development," he said. In the first quarter of 2025, Malaysia approved RM89.8 billion in digital investments, marking a 3.7 per cent year-on-year increase. Of that, RM35.1 billion was directed into the information and communication technology sub-sector, underscoring continued investor confidence in the local digital economy. Menawhile, HLIB chief executive officer Lee Jim Leng said Malaysia must reinforce its position as a neutral, stable, and indispensable hub for data and AI development to remain competitive in the rapidly evolving digital economy. Lee said this goal demands bold, future-ready policies that not only catalyse homegrown AI innovation and uphold data sovereignty but also accelerate the development of energy-efficient, sustainable data centre infrastructure, critical components of any advanced digital ecosystem. He added that deeper collaboration between the government, industry players and academia will be crucial to ensuring Malaysia builds long-term competitiveness in high-performance digital infrastructure. "Malaysia is entering the era of Data Centre 2.0, a phase where the focus moves beyond basic co-location services to advanced, high-performance computing infrastructure that supports AI workloads, green innovation, and data sovereignty. "With RM6.7 billion in approved investments and another RM3.9 billion currently in advanced hyperscale discussions, Malaysia is no longer a peripheral player in the region. "Malaysia should now be positioning itself as a key digital infrastructure hub," she added. Lee noted that the global AI revolution is transforming every industry, and data centres are the backbone of this new digital era. However, she cautioned that this transformation is unfolding amid growing geopolitical tensions, particularly the recent US restrictions on exports of advanced AI chips, which have sent shockwaves through the global technology supply chain. "While Malaysia is not a direct target of these restrictions, we remain a vital node in an interconnected global economy. Any disruption to the supply of high-performance chips from giants like NVIDIA and AMD will directly affect the cloud providers, hyperscalers, and enterprises that are powering our digital future," she said. Despite these global challenges, Lee believes Malaysia has a real opportunity to solidify its position. She said this shift is backed by data reflecting rising investor confidence and market interest. She pointed out that MIDA had approved RM6.7 billion in data centre investments. While that figure is impressive, she said the additional RM3.9 billion currently under advanced discussion signals the massive opportunities still ahead. "This domestic boom is also further validated by our growing presence on the regional stage. According to global real estate services firm Jones Lang LaSalle (JLL), Malaysia now attracts 38 per cent of all new data centre investments across the Asean region. "Even more notably, JLL projects that our market share could surpass 40 per cent by next year. This isn't just growth. It marks a consolidation of our role as the destination of choice for digital infrastructure investment. "The momentum is clear, with RM2 billion worth of data centre construction contracts already awarded this year, proving that these multi-billion-ringgit commitments are moving quickly from blueprints to physical infrastructure," she said. Lee said global tech giants such as Google, Microsoft, and AWS are not only investing in Malaysia; they are doubling down, recognising the country's immense potential as a regional data powerhouse. She noted that demand for data centres continues to rise, fuelled by the rapid expansion of AI and cloud computing. Overall, Lee said the transition to Data Centre 2.0 presents both a challenge and an opportunity, but with the right strategies, Malaysia can turn global uncertainty into a national advantage and cement its leadership as Asean's digital infrastructure hub.
New Straits Times
25-06-2025
- Business
- New Straits Times
Data centre 2.0 transition key towards sustainable digital sector: MIDA
KUALA LUMPUR: Malaysia's shift towards Data Centre 2.0 is a crucial step in building a strong foundation for the country's digital sector growth, said Malaysian Investment Development Authority (MIDA) chief executive officer (CEO) Datuk Sikh Shamsul Ibrahim Sikh Abdul Majid He said data centres are going through a generational shift, transitioning towards generative artificial intelligence (AI), quantum breakthroughs and large-scale automation. "Recent global shifts – such as the United States (US) Department of Commerce's recalibration on AI division rules – signal a deeper understanding that digital leadership cannot be siloed or reactive. It must be strategic, collaborative and bold. "For Malaysia, this is a call to action. We must continue to lead with agility, vision and policy for data centre development," he said in his keynote address at the Bursa Malaysia-Hong Leong Investment Bank Bhd (HLIB) Stratum Focus Series titled 'Data Centre 2.0: The Ecosystem and What's Next for Malaysia?', here today. Sikh Shamsul also said Malaysia's digital ecosystem recorded RM89.8 billion in total approved investments in the first quarter of this year, a 3.7 per cent increase year-on-year, with RM35.1 billion channelled into the information and communication sub-sector. "From 2021 to March this year, the Digital Investment Office (DIO), a joint initiative by MIDA and Malaysia Digital Economy Corporation (MDEC), has facilitated RM310.7 billion in digital investments. "We have surpassed our national target of RM130 billion, well ahead of schedule, and generated more than 92,000 new jobs, many in frontier domains like cloud engineering, AI operations and cybersecurity," he said. Meanwhile, HLIB group managing director and CEO Lee Jim Leng said the global AI revolution is transforming every industry, and data centres are the very backbone of this new era. However, she noted that the transformation is unfolding against a backdrop of geopolitical tension, especially with the recently imposed restrictions by the US on advanced AI chip exports, which have sent shockwaves through the global technology supply chain. "While Malaysia is not a direct target of these chip restrictions, we are a key node in a deeply interconnected global economy. But, against this global challenge lies Malaysia's defining moment and opportunities. "The transition to Data Centre 2.0 is both a test and a tremendous opportunity. By leveraging our strategic advantages, fostering innovation, and strengthening our partnerships, we will be able to navigate global uncertainties and firmly establish Malaysia as ASEAN's leading data centre hub," she said.
