5 days ago
Wine with Leslie: A century of Rioja... and 25 years of Lidl in Ireland
Happy 100th Birthday Rioja!
Rioja's DO (Denominaciones de Origen) was created in 1925, making it the first DO in Spain, and in 1991 it became the first DOCa, a higher ranking yet again.
Rioja was first recognised by the King of Navarra and Aragon in 1102, and we know it was being exported by the following century.
We don't really know when the first Rioja came to Ireland, but given our long trading connections with the Basque country (part of Rioja is Basque), I suspect we have been drinking Rioja for a millennium or so.
Lidl also celebrates its 25th birthday in Ireland this year and to mark this, they brought myself and some other journalists to visit Rioja and Ribera del Duero to meet some of their suppliers.
I was particularly curious to see how they can sell Rioja at such a low price and the answer is simply economies of scale; some of their suppliers are simply enormous.
Marqués de Carrion are the world's fourth biggest wine producer making 67 million bottles per year across different appellations, I recommend their Antaño Rioja below.
We also visited Bodegas Campoameno who make Cepa Lebrel for Lidl, another very impressive winery. The Cepa Lebrel Crianza and Reserva (€8.29 & €8.99) have solid blackberry fruit flavours and fine character for their price.
I should also pitch Rioja as a tourism destination, there are regular flights to Bilbao (an hour to the north) and you can also go Rosslare-Bilbao with Brittany Ferries and bring your car.
The best meal of my recent trip was in Posada Mayor de Migueloa in the pretty village of Laguardia who specialise in beef and make wine in their basement; I also recommend visiting Haro and Lagroño the two wine capitals.
Three Rioja recommended below, two old school and one modern.
Garcia-Carrion 'Antaño' Crianza Rioja 2019, Spain, €8.49
Garcia-Carrion 'Antaño' Crianza Rioja 2019, Spain, €8.49
Lidl
One of Ireland's best value Riojas, this spends 12 months in oak barrels and a couple of years in bottle before release.
Savoury, stewed fruit aromas with some cedar and vanilla, ripe ans mellow with some tobacco notes.
'5 Oros' Rioja Crianza from the same producer appears in Lidl occasionally and has a little more weight and richness.
Monte Real Gran Reserva 2018, Rioja, Spain, €34.99
Monte Real Gran Reserva 2018, Rioja, Spain, €34.99
O'Briens,
Aged for 2-3 years in oak and a further 3-4 years in barrel. I've featured Monte Real Crianza and Reserva before but not the Gran Reserva.
This is aromatic and intense with black olives, black raspberry and tobacco on the nose and come cooked prunes and chocolate touches on the finish.
Despite seven years ageing in barrel and bottle, this still has plenty of fruit and character.
Roda 'Sela' Rioja 2022, Spain, €33
Roda 'Sela' Rioja 2022, Spain, €33
Baggot Street Wines; Avoca; BaRossa; D-6;
Roda was founded in the late 80's and is part of the modernist movement in Rioja where ripeness is everything and French oak is preferred to American.
Roda keep yields low, plant only specific clones while utilising oak the focus is on the fruit.
This has lovely freshness and bright juicy fruits; dark, dense and ripe on the palate with concentrated blackberry and plums.
Beer of the Week
Hopfully Brewing 'Eyecatcher' Session Pale Ale, 4.8% ABV, 440ml €4.25
Hopfully Brewing 'Eyecatcher' Session Pale Ale, 4.8% ABV, 440ml €4.25
Ardkeen; Bradleys; Drinkstore; McHughs
A New England Hazy Pale Ale from Waterford's finest Hopfully Brewing.
This pours a cloudy pale orange colour with tropical fruit and garrigue herb aromas, juicy, bright and tasty.
Hopfully also made a new (and rather fine) Hazy IPA to for Lotts & Co. to celebrate their 10th birthday, available in Terenure or via
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