11-06-2025
- Entertainment
- The Herald Scotland
Is Lyla the best restaurant in Scotland? We tried it out
The Edinburgh fine dining spot was also placed at number 17 as part of the 'definitive guide' to the UK's top 100 restaurants, curated as part of the awards.
Here, we return to Food & Drink writer Sarah Campbell's experience at the restaurant, first published in November 2024, as Ralston's guest chef series entered full swing.
'Too many cooks spoil the broth, ' or so the age-old adage goes.
A control freak to the nth degree, I've always found that to be true, preferring to banish dinner guests to the living room (drink in hand, of course) while I fuss over pots and pans.
Otherwise, any illusion of calm would quickly be shattered if a stand-in sous chef were to witness the almighty mess I can create even when prepping a simple salad.
That's why I'm finding the impossibly fluid dance these two chefs at the top of their game and their teams are doing around the open kitchen in Edinburgh tonight is captivating to watch.
The latest venture from Stuart Ralston, Lyla has, in one year since opening, received countless rave reviews, a Michelin guide listing, and skyrocketed to the top of my must-visit list.
Tonight, there's a twist in the tale at this unapologetically fine-dining, seafood-focused spot as chef Alex Nietosvuori, the talent behind Michelin Star Hjem in Northumberland, is invited to make his mark on the tasting menu.
It's the second in an ongoing guest chef series which will continue through to next year, with the likes of Andy Beynon (Behind) and Jonnie Crowe (Restaurant St Barts) soon to take their turn at the pass.
These one-off events are delivered in partnership with NC25 Caviar, and as such, the menu for this evening includes multiple dishes designed to benefit from a rich, umami hit of this luxury delicacy.
A 'four-hands' operation, six of the dishes, including Scottish sea trout pie with seaweed and salmon roe, or scallop with buckwheat and vin jaune, have come from Hjem.
The rest, like crisp laminated brioche served with both ampersand and wild garlic/ koji butter or turbot with Shetland mussel and N25 Kaluga Caviar, are creations from the venue's resident chef.
This sort of guest chef series is becoming increasingly common, giving all involved the chance to impress a fresh audience while benefiting from the thrill of collaboration in a new environment.
Ralston's skill, talent, and inspiration from his past travels are effortlessly demonstrated through a bowl of chawanmushi, trout and purslane, immaculately presented with clean, colourful stripes layered and set just so.
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Holding his own, it's a squid, pine nut, and goat's butter dish from Nietosvuori that wins our hearts early on, its velvety texture and creaminess spiked by that all-important, salty N25 Hybrid Caviar, which glistens on top.
We shouldn't be surprised to learn that there's a secret third player in this game, as award-winning Lyla sommelier, Stuart Skea, delivers a selection meticulously planned with tonight's menu in mind.
It's an incredible display of knowledge and understanding of flavour, which could veer close to outshining our tasting menu dishes, were they not such a perfect match for each other.
Things are a team effort here, and oh, does the whole thing play out beautifully.
As someone who enjoys the privilege of dining out more than most for a living, now and then, it starts to feel like you might have seen, or eaten, it all.
Then a restaurant like Lyla comes along and reminds you just how wonderful, and life-affirming, an experience food prepared at this level can be.
Lyla is located at 3 Royal Terrace, Edinburgh.
For more information on bookings, visit
