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Globe and Mail
6 days ago
- Globe and Mail
Aboard the Rocky Mountaineer to Jasper, I found a moment to be still
As the train slowed to a halt, the usual chatter of passengers aboard the Rocky Mountaineer dimmed to a quiet hum, as if to mimic our surroundings. I stood outside on the viewing deck, just steps from the still, clear water of Moose Lake, which was gleaming in the sun. The warm smell of fresh-baked bread wafted from the train's kitchen into the crisp air of Alberta's Rockies. Are you travelling in Canada this summer? Send us a postcard I had let time slip away. Maybe it was because I had gone two days without much cell reception and WiFi, or because unlike my usual jam-packed travels, I was forced to stay put. Taking this legendary rail journey last April, I departed from Vancouver, rolled along hills and through hot desert canyons, and found myself near the end among the ice-capped peaks of Jasper National Park. I was pleasantly surprised to have reached this level of disconnection – having no need to worry about logistics, I completely forgot to change my phone's time zone while on board. This route to Jasper, Journey Through the Clouds, just reopened in spring, almost a year since the July, 2024, wildfire devastated the UNESCO World Heritage Site. As Jasper welcomes tourists back, this train is one of the most awe-inspiring ways to get there, turning a 90-minute flight into a two-day, one-night adventure. When travelling a century-old rail path, built in the 1880s by the Canadian Pacific Railway, you're left with time to ponder the past and present. For travellers like myself, it's a once-in-a-lifetime experience. But even for train staff who make the trip on the regular, it never gets old. 'I have the absolute best office view in the world,' says Wendy McMichael, who has been a senior on-board manager with the Rocky Mountaineer for 14 years, in which she's seen everything from marriage proposals to a bear on its hind legs watching the train go by. 'No two days are the same' she says, reflecting on the ever-changing weather and terrain. Though each day may be different, they are all just as well-rehearsed. Red carpets are rolled out at the station and men in Scottish dress play bagpipes – a nod to the heritage of the founders and owners, the Armstrong family. The Rocky Mountaineer's crew works overnight to get the train ready, says Celia Bautista, who has been a train manager for four years. If you're venturing upstairs to 'GoldLeaf' service, plush, heated seats await and you can almost touch the lush foliage that brushes the outside of the glass-domed ceiling. Soon after boarding, you're offered tea, coffee and cake with lemon glaze poured on top at your seat, before you're invited to the dining cart for breakfast. (The train's cheaper SilverLeaf service still offers great views – the main difference is you're served breakfast and lunch at your seat.) The breakfast and lunch menu uses ingredients local to the regions the train passes through. Elaborate and colourful meals include Fraser Valley chicken paillard with corn and fennel sauté, locally-farmed steelhead with gnocchi, seared albacore tuna with truffle aioli, and for dessert, a lavender lemon posset. The food is prepared fresh by just two people in the tiny kitchen on board. It's a fascinating feat, with the 72 guests split into two groups to allow for service. The first part of the trip cuts through lumberyards and the flower fields and farmlands of Abbotsford, where cows graze under highway bridges. Along the way, big-horned sheep stop their hopping to examine our noisy intrusion, people come out to their porches to wave, and speed boaters show off their drifting skills for the audience. Often, there are relics of the original line such as telegraph poles still standing from when Morse code messages were sent to train stations. As we pass large, unmarked stone graves, our host Tina Mohns acknowledges those who died while building the tracks – among them, around 4,000 Chinese construction workers. As the diesel-electric train twists and turns through the Coast and Cascade Mountains at 50 kilometres an hour to 100 km/h, Mohns tells tales of local sites, legends of long-ago epic journeys, and the 1858 Fraser River Gold Rush. In one day, we go from the steely grey, towering cliffs of Hell's Gate on the Fraser River to the dusty-brown ridges and large osprey nests in Ashcroft, B.C. (which I'm fascinated to learn is classified as an arid desert). Overnight, we get off in Kamloops and sleep at a hotel. The next morning, 10 railcars split off with some heading to Banff, while our three railcars head to Jasper. We were back to lush greens by the Thompson River, one of the longest salmon runs in the world. Here, the train did a 'Kodak roll,' moving slowly past the remote Pyramid Creek Falls – which are difficult to access by car or foot – so passengers could snap pictures. While we were in Jasper National Park's Yellowhead Pass, Mohns told us the area is home to around 1,500 moose and that if we see wildlife, we should yell so the staff can alert the other coaches. Here I was, on the lookout for moose, drinking a Caesar, with Shania Twain's You're Still the One playing over the speaker (could it get more stereotypically Canadian?), when someone yelled 'Bear! Bear! Bear!' I plastered myself against glass-domed windows for a better look, along with the rest of the passengers. Eventually, we reached Mount Robson – the highest peak in the Canadian Rockies and the end of our journey. I enjoyed my cabin in Jasper, walking the trails near the gushing Athabasca Falls, and seeing wildlife such as mountain goats, elk, and a black bear emerging from hibernation. But I missed the train, with its promise of serendipity, and an excuse to be still. It helped me forge a deeper connection to this part of the country. Sometimes, the journey can be as exciting as the destination. Rocky Mountaineer runs between April to October. The Vancouver to Jasper route starts at $2,654 for SilverLeaf class and $3,565 for GoldLeaf. Travellers in wheelchairs can use a lift to get on the train, and also have access to narrow wheelchairs on board that fit in the aisle and the railcar elevator. The Rocky Mountaineer is not a sleeper train – the night in Kamloops is spent in a three- or four-star hotel. Pre and post-trip extensions are offered in five-star hotels, such as the Fairmont Waterfront in Vancouver and Jasper Park Lodge. Rocky Mountaineer packages can include excursions such as wildlife tours, ice plunges and Indigenous plant walks. Some areas of Jasper National Park remain closed because of wildfire damage; you can find updated information on the Parks Canada website. You can extend your trip by booking a bus from Jasper to Banff on the Icefields Parkway, where you pass jagged sawtooth mountains, gravel flats with braided streams, and the Columbia Icefield. The writer was a guest of Rocky Mountaineer and Fairmont Hotels. It did not review or approve the story before publication.
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Travel + Leisure
08-07-2025
- Travel + Leisure
These Are the 5 Best Luxury Trains in the World for 2025—and No. 1 Is in North America With Mountain Views and Access to Glacial Waters
Long before freeways and flight paths reshaped how we move, railroads linked cities and carried people across vast landscapes. Now considered a 'slow' mode of transport, train travel is steadily regaining ground with travelers who enjoy the magic that unfolds when you sit back and watch the world pass from your window seat. Travel + Leisure readers called out their favorite trains around the world in the 2025 World's Best Awards survey, revealing a list that includes routes in the American West along with European trains that operate as a piece of living history. The GoldLeaf class observation car on board the Rocky Mountaineer train. Every year for our World's Best Awards survey, T+L asks readers to weigh in on travel experiences around the globe—to share their opinions on the top hotels, resorts, cities, islands, cruise ships, spas, airlines, and more. Nearly 180,000 T+L readers completed the 2025 survey. A total of more than 657,000 votes were cast across over 8,700 properties (hotels, cities, cruise lines, etc.). Trains were specifically rated on the criteria below: Accommodations Food Service Itineraries Destinations Value For each characteristic, respondents could choose a rating of excellent, above average, average, below average, or poor. The final scores are averages of these responses. Readers called out trains around the world, including a few in Europe, a North American mountain route, and a ride that runs through the Napa Valley wine region. The five selections may have little in common at first glance, but they all hold a reputation for providing a curated, high-end experience on scenic routes. As one T+L reader stated when asked about their experience on board the Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, a Belmond Train (No. 4), the journey was a 'bucket list item for sure.' It's a statement that speaks to the full ranking of the best trains in the world. Rocky Mountaineer The Rocky Mountaineer train runs past Seton Lake, in British Columbia, Canada. The Rocky Mountaineer climbed up from its No. 3 spot in the 2024 World's Best Awards to its current standing at the top of the list. Take a peek at its routes and you'll understand why. The Rocky Mountaineer travels through British Columbia and Alberta in Canada, as well as Colorado and Utah in the United States. What all the routes have in common is their exploration of the Rocky Mountains and their dedication to comfort and luxury. The Rocky Mountaineer checks both boxes with oversized glass-dome windows offering views of the towering peaks or the sheer wall of a canyon as it makes its way through one of the most iconic mountain ranges in the world. The Rocky Mountaineer's first and most popular route cuts through the Canadian Rockies, uniting Vancouver with the mountain town of Banff, home to Banff National Park and the glacial waters of Lake Louise. As one T+L reader shared, the train is a 'great way to see changing landscapes in style,' while another noted, 'service excellent, train guides excellent, bus tour guides great and knowledgeable and entertaining, scenery gorgeous and breathtaking!' 1. Rocky Mountaineer Reader Score: 90.49 2. British Pullman, a Belmond Train Reader Score: 86.32 3. Napa Valley Wine Train Reader Score: 85.00 4. Venice Simplon-Orient-Express, a Belmond Train Reader Score: 84.41 5. Al Andalus Train Reader Score: 82.64
Herald Sun
27-06-2025
- Herald Sun
The Rocky Mountaineer train is special, but the Rockies blew me away
The first European to see the Canadian Rockies was an English fur trader called Anthony Henday. History doesn't record what Henday said on sighting this majestic mountain range in 1754 but, if he was anything like me, there would have been swear words involved. Unlike his year-long odyssey from Hudson's Bay, travelling 1400km west by river and land to Alberta, it takes me less than 48 hours from Vancouver, travelling in pampered comfort aboard the Rocky Mountaineer train, to crest Kicking Horse Pass and enter a world of jagged snowy peaks soaring 3km into the sky. Reaching the Rockies – World Heritage listed for their 'exceptional natural beauty' – is the undisputed climax of our rail journey, but the entire route is a crescendo of changing scenery and light, viewed through glass carriages as we wend our way 900km east to the spa-and-ski resort of Banff. Perhaps because the train's passengers skew towards the senior end of society, the experience is streamlined and easy from the moment some 650 of us embark at the Rocky Mountaineer's dedicated downtown station. By 9am we're pulling out and trundling, at first, through the city's gritty, fascinating backblocks before crossing the Fraser River swing bridge as harbour seals fish the surging waters below. Day one is a leisurely transition from coastal rainforest to the semi-arid desert of Kamloops where we disembark and spend the night in hotels. The Rocky Mountaineer only runs during daylight hours to maximise the glorious views. Train tickets come in two classes, SilverLeaf and GoldLeaf. I'm travelling Gold in a duplex carriage with dining room below and spacious carriage above fitted with business-class-comfortable heated seats, and glass walls and roof for optimum enjoyment. There's also an open-air 'vestibule' if we want to feel the wind in our hair or hunt for bears (no luck this time). Breakfast is served not long after take-off. I sit downstairs with three other strangers – soon friends – at window-side tables while dining on raspberry and banana smoothie bowls, smoked salmon and avocado toast, and eggs Benedict. I quite like the ceremony of shifting between rooms for meals; Silver Leaf passengers are served in their seats, like on an airplane but with superior service, food and drinks. Initially we pass through river valleys ordered by agriculture and quaint wooden farmhouses before entering the woods, the train hugging cliffsides as jade rivers rush below. During the winding climb into the mountains we lunch on smoked albacore tuna and Dungeness crab ravioli and drink Okanagan Valley wines. If the ride sounds a little sedate so far it's because I haven't yet introduced our hosts, Patrycja Podgorski and Victor Venutti. She's Polish originally, he's Brazilian, and between them they run the Rocky Mountaineer show. You want facts? They have them all, whether your interests run to railway history or the reproductive habits of salmon. Their engaging commentary punctuates the journey; they also curate the playlist – 'Somewhere Over the Rainbow' comes on as we drive through double rainbows on the approach to Kamloops; 'Rocky Mountain High' when we enter the alpine wonderland. They're charming and funny travelling partners who win everyone over with their personalities and also their wine and cheese. We arrive at and depart Kamloops in the dark so I have little to report aside from our local guide's 'fun fact' that temperatures can reach 50C in summer and minus 40C in winter. At 6am GoldLeaf passengers are fetched from the comfortable Delta hotel and bussed back to the platform where Victor has rolled out the red carpet for us. Kitschy but cute. Day two is more dramatic as we segue from pastel hilltops and mirror lakes to a lofty world of forested slopes whose summits are snagged in clouds. The passage is slower than expected due to the high volume of cargo trains on this route, which have right of way. We are often parked on mountainsides waiting for coal-laden carriages to clear the tracks. These are some of my favourite moments, standing on the open deck in dense forest and pristine air. Arriving into the Rockies by train is wonderful but not as magnificent as actually spending time among them, in person. I stay two nights at the retro Rimrock Resort, handy to the famous hot springs, downtown Banff and must-see sights such as the glacial-blue lakes Louise and Moraine. Driving between Banff and Lake Louise along the Bow Valley Way, which is already 1500m above sea level, daunting mountains soar almost 2100m above me. This is why the Canadian Rockies are so revered. They make us humans feel insignificant. Down the track The Rocky Mountaineer operates between April and October on four routes – three in western Canada including my two-day trip from Vancouver to Banff, and a US itinerary between the Colorado Rockies and the canyons and hoodoos of Utah. The writer travelled as a guest of the Rocky Mountaineer and Fairmont Hotels & Resorts. Originally published as The Rocky Mountaineer train is special, but the Rockies blew me away
Courier-Mail
27-06-2025
- Courier-Mail
The Rocky Mountaineer train is special, but the Rockies blew me away
Don't miss out on the headlines from Lifestyle. Followed categories will be added to My News. The first European to see the Canadian Rockies was an English fur trader called Anthony Henday. History doesn't record what Henday said on sighting this majestic mountain range in 1754 but, if he was anything like me, there would have been swear words involved. Unlike his year-long odyssey from Hudson's Bay, travelling 1400km west by river and land to Alberta, it takes me less than 48 hours from Vancouver, travelling in pampered comfort aboard the Rocky Mountaineer train, to crest Kicking Horse Pass and enter a world of jagged snowy peaks soaring 3km into the sky. Reaching the Rockies – World Heritage listed for their 'exceptional natural beauty' – is the undisputed climax of our rail journey, but the entire route is a crescendo of changing scenery and light, viewed through glass carriages as we wend our way 900km east to the spa-and-ski resort of Banff. Perhaps because the train's passengers skew towards the senior end of society, the experience is streamlined and easy from the moment some 650 of us embark at the Rocky Mountaineer's dedicated downtown station. By 9am we're pulling out and trundling, at first, through the city's gritty, fascinating backblocks before crossing the Fraser River swing bridge as harbour seals fish the surging waters below. Day one is a leisurely transition from coastal rainforest to the semi-arid desert of Kamloops where we disembark and spend the night in hotels. The Rocky Mountaineer only runs during daylight hours to maximise the glorious views. Train tickets come in two classes, SilverLeaf and GoldLeaf. I'm travelling Gold in a duplex carriage with dining room below and spacious carriage above fitted with business-class-comfortable heated seats, and glass walls and roof for optimum enjoyment. There's also an open-air 'vestibule' if we want to feel the wind in our hair or hunt for bears (no luck this time). Breakfast is served not long after take-off. I sit downstairs with three other strangers – soon friends – at window-side tables while dining on raspberry and banana smoothie bowls, smoked salmon and avocado toast, and eggs Benedict. I quite like the ceremony of shifting between rooms for meals; Silver Leaf passengers are served in their seats, like on an airplane but with superior service, food and drinks. Initially we pass through river valleys ordered by agriculture and quaint wooden farmhouses before entering the woods, the train hugging cliffsides as jade rivers rush below. During the winding climb into the mountains we lunch on smoked albacore tuna and Dungeness crab ravioli and drink Okanagan Valley wines. If the ride sounds a little sedate so far it's because I haven't yet introduced our hosts, Patrycja Podgorski and Victor Venutti. She's Polish originally, he's Brazilian, and between them they run the Rocky Mountaineer show. You want facts? They have them all, whether your interests run to railway history or the reproductive habits of salmon. Their engaging commentary punctuates the journey; they also curate the playlist – 'Somewhere Over the Rainbow' comes on as we drive through double rainbows on the approach to Kamloops; 'Rocky Mountain High' when we enter the alpine wonderland. They're charming and funny travelling partners who win everyone over with their personalities and also their wine and cheese. We arrive at and depart Kamloops in the dark so I have little to report aside from our local guide's 'fun fact' that temperatures can reach 50C in summer and minus 40C in winter. At 6am GoldLeaf passengers are fetched from the comfortable Delta hotel and bussed back to the platform where Victor has rolled out the red carpet for us. Kitschy but cute. Day two is more dramatic as we segue from pastel hilltops and mirror lakes to a lofty world of forested slopes whose summits are snagged in clouds. The passage is slower than expected due to the high volume of cargo trains on this route, which have right of way. We are often parked on mountainsides waiting for coal-laden carriages to clear the tracks. These are some of my favourite moments, standing on the open deck in dense forest and pristine air. Arriving into the Rockies by train is wonderful but not as magnificent as actually spending time among them, in person. I stay two nights at the retro Rimrock Resort, handy to the famous hot springs, downtown Banff and must-see sights such as the glacial-blue lakes Louise and Moraine. Driving between Banff and Lake Louise along the Bow Valley Way, which is already 1500m above sea level, daunting mountains soar almost 2100m above me. This is why the Canadian Rockies are so revered. They make us humans feel insignificant. Down the track The Rocky Mountaineer operates between April and October on four routes – three in western Canada including my two-day trip from Vancouver to Banff, and a US itinerary between the Colorado Rockies and the canyons and hoodoos of Utah. The writer travelled as a guest of the Rocky Mountaineer and Fairmont Hotels & Resorts. Originally published as The Rocky Mountaineer train is special, but the Rockies blew me away
Vancouver Sun
20-06-2025
- Vancouver Sun
Banff National Park: What to know, how to get there, and when to visit
Note: On Thursday, June 19, 2025, a rock slide occurred near Bow Glacier Falls in Banff National Park. As of Friday, two hikers had been reported dead , while others were believed to be injured. Emergency services remain on scene searching for other survivors. Those planning to travel in the area should check for updates before heading out, adhere to all local directives, and ensure you're prepared with outdoor safety equipment. For those looking to keep their travel north of the border this summer, you might consider Banff National Park. Plan your next getaway with Travel Time, featuring travel deals, destinations and gear. By signing up you consent to receive the above newsletter from Postmedia Network Inc. A welcome email is on its way. If you don't see it, please check your junk folder. The next issue of Travel Time will soon be in your inbox. Please try again Interested in more newsletters? Browse here. The area is a picturesque experience, iconic for its postcard views no matter which way you turn and the crisp mountain air you can only find in the Rockies. Here's what you need to know about visiting Banff National Park. Banff National Park is Canada's first national park and the 'flagship of the nation's park system,' according to the federal government. Banff was established in the 1880s to draw tourists to the area, unlike many of the other mountain towns that grew from mining settlements. A number of natural hot springs nearby discovered by railway workers quickly drew increased tourist attention and spurred the government to designate the area a reserve to protect the springs. The reserve quickly grew and was later renamed Banff National Park. Today, Banff, and the nearby Lake Louise, has become a world-renowned destination and in 1984, Banff National Park was declared a part of the Canadian Rocky Mountain Parks as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. It is popular with both local and international visitors, whether seeking a hotel getaway or a camping excursion. By car: Banff is about a 9-hour drive east of Vancouver, or a 1.5-hour drive west of Calgary. While the TransCanada highway is open year-round, it does wind through the Rockies and can be intimidating for some drivers. During the winters, road conditions may be slick and during the summers, there may be wildfire alerts along the route. By shuttle / plane: You can also reach Banff by flying into Calgary International Airport and then taking a shuttle. There are a number of shuttle companies that will pick up from the airport and drop you off in Banff. You can also look up shuttle and tour companies that will depart from the Vancouver area. Some shuttle companies you can look into include ABest Transport and Tour Services , Alpine Limousine & Tours , Banff Airporter , Banff Sedan , Brewster Express , Discover Banff Tours , Mountain Park Transportation and Banff Chauffeur . By train: The Banff area is also serviced by the Rocky Mountaineer train. There is regularly scheduled train service from April through October that start or finish in Banff. Banff has a wide of accommodations, no matter what you're looking for. Lodgings in the area range from luxury hotels to budget-friendly hostels, from family-friendly cabins to intimate bed and breakfast cottages, and even campgrounds. For suggestions on where to stay, visit the Banff & Lake Louise accommodations page where you'll find options for every budget and need . Ride the Banff Gondola. To get a unique view of the Rockies, consider hopping on board the Banff Gondola. The eight-minute ride takes you up 700 metres, delivering you to the very peak of Sulphur Mountain where you can take in a meal and enjoy a short hike. The outing takes between 1 to 3 hours and offers a breathtaking view of the surroundings. Get outdoors. There's no shortage of trails of varying levels of difficulty for hikers, and there's plenty of ways to get out on the water. You can also explore the area on bike, by horseback, or even go climbing and caving. No matter how you get outside, just make sure that you do. In the winter, you can ski or snowboard, go snowshoeing or skating, tubing or even try dogsledding! Visit Moraine Lake or Lake Louise. If you've seen a postcard of Banff, chances are you've seen the crystal blue waters of Moraine Lake or Lake Louise. The reflection of the sky on the water's surface on a blue-sky day is certainly worth the journey — but you'll want to make sure you make the trek early. Both lakes are popular with visitors and can often get crowded later into the day. Check out a family-friendly attraction. Travelling with kids? There's plenty to keep them entertained, including the Golden Skybridge , hot springs, the Glacier Skywalk , or any number of museums and historic sites. Some of those include the Banff Park Museum National Historic Site , the Buffalo Nations Luxton Museum , the Cave and Basin National Historic Site , or the Whyte Museum of the Canadian Rockies . (Don't forget that admission for kids and young adults to national parks and national historic sites are free or discounted this summer 2025 !) Depends on what you'd like to do: If you're looking to explore outdoors in warm weather, your best bet is to visit between June to October. Those seeking winter activities should visit from late February to early March for the best snow conditions. Depends on if you like crowds: Hoping to avoid crowds? Any time beside July and August should do the trick, as those are considered peak summer seasons for the Banff area. Depends on if you like heat: July and August are generally the warmest months of the year for Banff, so if you can't sweat it but you want warm weather, consider a bit earlier in the spring and summer. Depends on if you like a cosy cardigan: September and October are a beautiful time of year to make the drive to Banff, with leaves turning to autumn colours. Prices will generally come down a bit too, as peak season winds down. sip@
