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Condé Nast Traveler
07-07-2025
- Condé Nast Traveler
Grand Park Rovinj — Hotel Review
Why book? Because it's the most stylish and spoiling place to stay in Croatia right now—a stunning glass-and-stone monument of a hotel, perched high above the Adriatic, where every room has a front-row seat over Rovinj's charming, tumbling Old Town and yacht-filled marina. It's confident, cool, and collected, with just enough edge to keep things interesting. Set the scene Tucked into a pine-covered hillside just a short walk from Rovinj's historic Old Town, Grand Park feels more like a Bond villain lair (in the best way) than a beach resort. It's a haven for everyone from Birkenstock bros and their grid-ready beaus to old-money retirees—with some linen-clad families thrown in for good measure. Recently, the hotel has become part of a new wave reshaping Croatia's luxury scene—less yacht-party, more low-key Riviera chic—while still maintaining a homey feel. The place is stylish, too, with every restaurant, bar, and even corridor achieving that surprisingly rare hotel feat: showcasing genuinely good art. A moment is made out of everything—and none more so than in the spectacular main lobby, with its vast, floor-to-ceiling views over the city. Here, even check-in is transformed from pedestrian passport handover to what feels like a colossal, living, breathing oil painting. Backstory Opened in 2019 by Maistra Collection (a Croatian-owned group slowly and tastefully elevating the region's hospitality game) Grand Park was a statement of intent. It replaced an older, blander hotel with a bold architectural concept—built down into the landscape, not on top of it—and filled it with custom Italian furniture, local artwork, and one of the best wellness centers on the Adriatic. Co-designed by the renowned Milan-based Lissoni Architettura and Croatia's own architectural studio 3LHD, the hotel is infused with chill vibes, and has since become the spot to book if you want a sun-drenched Croatian escape with all the comforts of home. Rooms It's one of the few hotels where corridors get an honorable mention, with their sultry, Kubrickian mood, one that leads into the rooms themselves with bursts of blond wood, slate-gray stone, and low-slung furniture. It's luxurious, but in a controlled way—like letting a monk loose with a credit card. As with the rest of the hotel, everything in-room is purposeful and considered, from the art (not just prints, but integrated sculptures and ceramics) to the generous bathrooms, with titanic tubs and rainfall showers. Families will gravitate to the corner suites for space and privacy, but couples will be more than happy with the well-priced park-facing rooms. If it's splashing out you're after, then look to the Sea View Suites, some of which come with private plunge pools. You'll find a kind of effortless flow that wants to pull you back out onto the terrace, then over the water, and back into the warm stone walls of the Old Town. Food and drink The real star here is the world-class restaurant Cap Aureo, a fine-dining flagship led by chef Jeffrey Vella. Just like the rest of the property, it playfully pokes at the established rulebook with flavor-first flair and a touch of edgy zen. Get the mushroom tiramisu and the best cube of lamb you'll ever encounter. Breakfast is a lavish, Mediterranean-meets-Scandi affair that hits the wellness crowd hard. Think sourdough, juice bars, protein-rich cuts of meat and cheese, honeycomb slabs, and eggs any way you want, all served by expert staff. There's a strong offering across the lunch menu, and even the in-room dining is better than most—so much so that it's worth scheduling a sunset dinner on your personal balcony. Pro tip: If you drink coffee, avoid the bustle of the breakfast room and get a cup in the quieter lobby bar, Viva Eufemia, with its lofty sofas that gaze out over the marina. Spa At nearly 41,000 square feet, there are enough saunas, steam rooms, pools, and treatment rooms to keep you occupied for hours, as well as a sprawling relaxation room, complete with herbal tea and a hydration station, that stretches out into the pine-forest-backed gardens. In terms of pools, there's both a freshwater sports pool and top floor infinity offering that, from the right angle, seems to be a continuation of the sea itself. The hotel's gentle poke at established norms continues here too, with unusual spa treatments ranging from liqueur-infused wraps to expert massages that make use of Istria's pride and joy—olive oil. The neighborhood You're right on the edge of Rovinj—close enough to walk into town for a treat or a gallery visit, but far enough to feel cocooned. The Lungomare Plaza, a waterfront promenade at the foot of the hotel, is lined with concept stores, a Japanese restaurant, and a fantastic gelateria (skip dessert upstairs and come down here instead). Rovinj's cobbled lanes, baroque churches, and seafood bistros are just a 10-minute walk away. Crucially—and unlike most hotels of this ilk—the Grand Park is not concerned with keeping you held within its crosshairs at all times, like a helicopter parent. Instead, in a display of admirable self-confidence, it actively encourages you to get out and about, made easy via the opulent ground-floor plaza, which snakes you straight into Old Town or to the tranquil Golden Cape Forest Park. The service Impeccable but unfussy. Staff are mostly local, highly trained, and genuinely proud to work there. Expect smiles, not stiffness. Even the breakfast staff keep the hotel's subversive edge alive, with a uniform that combines chic service suits with Adidas sneakers. The concierge team can book truffle hunts, vineyard tastings, or boat charters with just a few hours' notice. Golf carts will whisk you to town or to the private Mulini Beach Club, a short drive away. For those looking for something truly special, the concierge can also arrange hot air balloon rides over the Istrian countryside through trusted local providers—a breathtaking way to experience the region from above. When it comes to hotels, you can measure the quality by how much they charge you to rent a bicycle—at the Grand Park, they are free (alas, e-bikes do have a surcharge). Be sure to pack a picnic and head to the cool shade of the forest park. For families Very family-friendly, without compromising the hotel's grown-up feel. The pools are staggered across levels (some adults-only), and there are connecting rooms and kid-friendly food. The nearby Mulini Beach is calm and safe for little ones, and the concierge can organize babysitting if needed. Eco effort The hotel is Green Key certified, uses solar panels, was built with local materials, and focuses on regional and seasonal food in its kitchens. It also partners with Istrian producers and marine conservation initiatives—ask the front desk to point you to the sustainability display in the lobby. Accessibility With ramps and wide walkways throughout, the hotel meets accessibility standards. Elevators connect every floor, and several rooms are fully adapted with barrier-free showers and accessible outdoor terraces. The open-plan nature of the rooms means they're easier to navigate than most, as are the doors—broad and light enough for easy use. Anything left to mention? Set an early alarm and creep up to the infinity pool for a sunrise swim while all the other guests rest or have breakfast. It's blissfully empty, and you'll get the Adriatic all to yourself.
Times
30-06-2025
- Times
The charming Croatian town with an Italian touch
Midway along the Istrian coast of Croatia, the exquisitely photogenic old town of Rovinj juts out into the Adriatic, its weathered houses cascading down to the water's edge. Part of the Republic of Venice for centuries, it remains Croatia's most Italianate of cities. Its easily walkable old town is a maze of cobbled streets and alleys, Venetian palazzos and pastel-coloured façades, punctuated by views of the shimmering blue sea. It's a paradise for foodies, with local produce including fantastic seafood, exquisite truffles and superlative olive oil; and there's no shortage of superb places to eat and drink, from small taverns to Michelin-starred high fliers. Surrounded by a scattering of small islands, flanked by beaches and on the doorstep of Croatia's most prestigious wine region, Rovinj is ideal for a culture-packed weekend, a romantic getaway or a deep dive into Croatian gastronomy. • Morning Explore the old town• Eat at Giannino• Afternoon Dobravac Winery• Drink at Augusto Coffee Shop• Evening House of Pelinkovac• Eat at Agli Amici • Morning Hit the beach• Eat at Snack Bar Rio• Afternoon Batana Eco-Museum• Drink at Aperitiv Bar Circolo• Evening Sunset views• Eat at El Bugadur • Start in the small, compact old town, which was originally an island but was linked to the mainland in the 18th century. From the café-lined main square (Trg Marsala Tita), wander uphill along Ulica Sv Kriza to the imposing baroque Church of St Euphemia, which occupies a broad terrace at the top of the hill and holds the tomb of this early 4th-century saint and martyr. Climb the 17th-century bell tower, Rovinj's most visible landmark, modelled on St Mark's in Venice. Expect steep wooden steps at the top but phenomenal views in all directions; on a clear day you can catch a glimpse of the Alps (£4). Stroll down Ulica Vladimira Svalbe, where narrow alleys lead straight down to the water's edge. Aim to get a little lost, to stumble over small craft shops and cafés, hidden squares and old stone doorways; the old town is tiny and it won't be long before you find your bearings again. • Head to Villa Dobravac, a multi-award-winning, family-run winery 15 minutes' walk from the old town, for an introduction to Istrian wine. Their nearby vineyards are planted mainly with local grape varieties malvazija and teran, and they also produce their own olive oil and have a few guest rooms. You'll find up to seven of their wines available for tasting, including Sonata, a refreshingly crisp malvazija; Simfonia, a knockout orange wine, also made from malvazija; and Fuga, a brooding deep red teran monster (tastings from £25; Pelinkovac is a bitter herbal liqueur that is popular in Croatia and made from wormwood — think along the lines of Italian amaro and you're on the right track. The House of Pelinkovac is run by Darna, a small, family-owned distillery opened in 1925, and combines a shop with informative displays and the opportunity to try the drink itself (free; Follow the waterfront around the harbour past the Grand Park Hotel to reach Mulini beach, its arc of fine shingle flanked by chic beach bars serving Aperol to Rovinj's beautiful people. Walk just a little further to discover a succession of rocky coves and quiet beaches along Punta Corrente, secluded and overhung with conifers, with views stretching back past the island of St Catherine.• This small museum on the waterfront shines a light on the batana — a traditional wooden fishing boat with a single sail or which is propelled by a standing oarsman. The batana has been used in Rovinj for centuries, its flat-bottomed hull allowing it to be manoeuvred in shallow, rocky waters. You can see some of them moored just outside the museum alongside Mali Mol, or Little Pier (entry from £4; Afterwards, take a boat ride on a batana from Mali Mol, accompanied by stories of local folklore and songs (one-hour ride, £42 for two people; Take an evening stroll along the waterfront, which is the best spot for sunset views across the boats moored in the harbour. If you fancy stopping somewhere, Konoba Kantinon is a good choice — a traditional restaurant with friendly staff housed in a former wine cellar. Order a platter of Istrian prsut (prosciutto) and a couple of glasses of teran (tapas from £8; The fisherman's son Corrado Pellizzer opened his landmark restaurant back in 1972 and it's still a local favourite, hidden away in a quiet backstreet. Inside there's a contemporary feel, with an impressive wall covered in wine bottles. Seafood takes centre stage, with the ever-changing menu dictated by the morning's catch, supplied by three local fishermen. Highlights might include a trio of scallop, sea bass and cuttlefish carpaccio, tagliatelle alla marinara, or melt-in-your-mouth tempura oysters. Don't miss the signature carob cake dessert (mains from £15; • This overlooked Croatian city is the perfect relaxed weekend break Hidden away on a narrow alley off Carera Ulica, this is a great little café, with a few shady tables outside, mouthwatering cakes, plant-based milks and perfect coffee. Service is relaxed and friendly, and the hip interior has an industrial edge, with rough walls and upcycled wood (drinks from £2.50; @augustocoffeeshop). Croatia's only two-Michelin-starred restaurant (it was awarded its first star within just three months of opening in 2022), Agli Amici is the sister establishment of the phenomenal restaurant of the same name in Udine, Italy, drawing upon five generations of hospitality in the Scarello family. Run by the Italian chef Emanuele Scarello, Rovinj's Agli Amici has two seasonal menus — one dedicated to the sea (Rovinj) and the other to the land (Istria). Expect the likes of Istrian langoustine with buzara sauce, raw scampi and grilled peas and cuttlefish in gold leaf with citrus and pepper. The affable Scarello wanders the floor, chatting to guests between courses. Bookings open 60 days in advance (seven-course tasting menu £177, wine pairing £80; • 13 of the best places to visit in Croatia This is the best place to eat on the waterfront alongside the harbour. It has consistently good food, but standout dishes include octopus salad, and pljukanci (traditional Istrian pasta) with scampi. Nab a seat on the enclosed terrace, a remnant of the bar that stood here in the 1960s (whence the name), which gets you harbourside vibes without the seagulls — although there are tables right by the water's edge as well (mains from £15; On a raised terrace above Trg Campitelli, this classy bar serves imaginative and creative seasonal cocktails such as the summery Bionda — tequila, malvazija, apple purée, fresh lime juice and Pernod. The terrace is particularly nice in the evening, as it catches a bit of a breeze; inside there's a saloon-like feel with a big wooden bar (cocktails from £8; This lovely old-town restaurant spotlights seasonal ingredients, such as in a dish of linguine with wild asparagus. Salted cod pâté with generous truffle shavings may be followed by roasted octopus on sautéed Mediterranean vegetables, plus there's excellent natural wine. Grab a table outside, above the rocky shore, where the sea is illuminated at dusk by underwater lights. (mains from £15; • 15 of the best beaches in Croatia This article contains affiliate links that can earn us revenue Waterside luxury and viewsThe Grand Park is a fabulous five-star hotel set along the waterfront, facing the old town with the slopes of a lush forest park behind. Supremely stylish and modern, it exudes a feeling of understated luxury, its spacious rooms decorated in earthy tones, with clean lines and natural materials, and a sea of Mediterranean plants surrounding the balconies. Along with upscale dining at the Michelin-listed Cap Aureo, there's an elegant cocktail bar, a spa and wellness centre and an infinity pool on the fifth-floor terrace (B&B doubles from £185; Old town stay A lovely boutique hotel, housed in a 17th-century bishop's palace in the heart of the old town. Surprisingly homely, it has 23 tastefully furnished rooms, excellent breakfasts, wrought-iron beds, lots of exposed stone and a wonderful hidden garden — perfect for a coffee or an evening drink (B&B doubles from £105; Heritage hotel Converted from three houses dating back to the 1920s, this beautiful boutique hotel on the eastern edge of town has 12 rooms, exposed wooden beams, parquet flooring and handmade Venetian terrazzo, as well as a lounge bar and wine cellar housed within a former water cistern (B&B doubles from £105; Pula Airport is 25 miles from Rovinj and easyJet has direct flights from the UK ( From the airport, it's a 35-minute drive to Rovinj (£50 taxi for up to three people; Alternatively a shuttle bus runs into Pula's town centre (£5) from where it's 45 minutes to Rovinj by bus (£6.50; There's also a fast catamaran service between Venice and Rovinj in the summer (£76; Rovinj's largely pedestrianised old town is small and easy to get around on foot. It's easy to explore the rest of Istria from Rovinj. Porec, with its Unesco-listed Byzantine mosaics, is 22 miles away, the hugely impressive Roman amphitheatre in Pula is the same distance, or head inland for medieval hill towns including Motovun and Groznjan. The Limski kanal, a drowned river valley and nature reserve, is less than five miles away. Rudolf Abraham was a guest of the Croatian National Tourist Board ( Istria Tourist Board ( and Maistra (
Times
13-06-2025
- Times
17 of the best cruises in Croatia
Croatia is one of Europe's best cruise destinations. Once you have stepped foot on its pine-backed beaches, swum in sparkling blue coves and toured its terracotta-topped fishing villages you'll understand why. There are more than 1,000 islands to explore as well as adventures inland for forest hikes and winery visits. When it comes to bustling centres, there's no need to limit yourself to Dubrovnik's walls. Cruising allows visits to the palaces and cathedrals of ancient waterfront cities such as Split and Zadar, while sampling the seafood restaurants, snorkelling and sunsets of the glittering Adriatic. Whether you prefer to sail on a large cruise ship packed with facilities or a glamorous yacht, these are some of the best cruises in Croatia. This article contains affiliate links, which may earn us revenue Explora Journeys was launched by MSC Cruises in 2023 and the ships feel a cut above your average cruise line. Expect chic suites with walk-in wardrobes and floor-to-ceiling windows, and lavish all-inclusive packages that cover everything from thermal spa access to fine wines. Children over six months are welcome on board, but only those over six can use the excellent Nautilus Club with its games consoles,digital library and pool table. Croatian itineraries include seven-night cruises between Athens and Fusina, near Venice, calling at Zadar and the picturesque town of Rovinj, with its cobbled streets, busy fishing port and baroque church. • Read our full guide to Croatia Sea days will sail by on a Seabourn cruise thanks to a generous all-inclusive fare that includes servings of caviar and champagne, a bespoke in-suite bar and wi-fi powered by Starlink. There are several Croatia itineraries, including a 14-day sailing from Dubrovnik to Istanbul and a seven-day round-trip from Dubrovnik tracing the Dalmatian coast, with stops in some of the country's prettiest ports. Optional activities along the way include a winery tour in Korcula, a Dalmatian cookery class in Zadar and brandy tasting in Opatija, a seaside resort often likened to the French Riviera. • Discover our full guide to cruise holidays This holiday company, catering to UK travellers, has a ten-day Venice, Split and Treasures of the North yacht itinerary. You'll glide through Croatia's crystal-clear waters on the comfortable 36-passenger MS Stella Maris and visit islands such as Losinj and Rab, with plenty of time to explore. Shore excursions include a land-train trip to see the natural beauty of Brijuni National Park. Riviera offers flights from regional airports and you can upgrade for a stress-free home pick-up service, too. Built in response to the growing interest in small-ship cruising, river line Emerald Cruises launched a pair of 100-passenger superyachts — Azzurra and Sakara — which both offer Croatian itineraries. Almost 90 per cent of the cabins, which go up to the two-room 110 sq m Owner's Suites, have balconies and terraces with unimpeded views. Shore excursions are geared around authentic experiences, including visits to island towns like Korcula where you can sample its white wines amid the medieval walls and towers; and contrasting outcrops from bustling Hvar to far-flung Vis. Back on board there's a spa and a water sports platform for paddleboarding and snorkelling. You'll find plenty of quirky shore excursions designed to showcase the many facets of Croatia on a Celebrity cruise. Swim, cycle and kayak in and around Dubrovnik, and explore big-name TV and film locations from a tuk-tuk at Split. Trips to coastal towns, such as the tree-lined Cavtat, the southernmost Croatian resort, show a sleepier side to the country. On board, splash out on the Retreat suite, giving you access to an exclusive restaurant plus a clubhouse-style lounge open 24/7. Little ones will be equally happy in the Fun Factory area, or taking part in Camp at Sea activities adapted to suit four age groups. Renowned for its friendly, smaller ships that attract a loyal band of repeat guests, Fred Olsen has round-trip cruises to Croatia from Newcastle, Southampton and Liverpool on ships including the Balmoral and Bolette. It also runs one-way cruises from the UK to Dubrovnik. Your itinerary might include basking next to waterfalls at Plitvice Lakes National Park, scouring Roman ruins in Zadar and Split, or delving into Dalmatia's beloved red wines. Some sailings also slip into the fjord-like waters of the Bay of Kotor in neighbouring Montenegro. An onboard art studio means that you can join classes to capture highlights of your voyage on canvas. Get under the skin of Croatia with Azamara Cruises, focused on showcasing local life and culture. You'll have more time to explore with a different port of call each day and late-night departures on the line's immersive cruises of varying lengths. Your cruise could call at Pula, which was picked by the Romans as an administrative base and has a magnificent amphitheatre. Insightful excursions include discovering truffles in Istria, sampling local wines at vineyards in the Konavle Valley, and seeing a silk-weaving workshop outside ships in Silversea Cruise's all-inclusive luxury fleet sail to Croatia, including Silver Nova, one of the newest vessels. Active passengers can set off on hiking tours in national parks while there are lots of gentler options such as wine tasting and visiting an intriguing salt museum and salt pan in Zadar. Back on the ship, Silversea places a big emphasis on regional dining experiences in the S.A.L.T. (Sea And Land Taste) restaurant, along with cookery classes to learn how to create local specialities. You'll also be extremely pampered because all suites on Silversea come with personal butler a fly-cruise to Croatia on the 3,100-passenger Azura, one of the larger ships in P&O's fleet. Sailings visit the headline cities of Dubrovnik, Spilt and Zadar. A walk along the walls of the old city of Dubrovnik in the morning or when the sun goes down will give one of the best views across the red-roofed city. In Split, Diocletian's Palace, one of Europe's best-preserved Roman palaces, is another highlight. Among the many excursions P&O offers in Croatia, you could be visiting the Unesco-listed old town of Trogir, or foodie corners such as Ston, the oyster capital of Croatia. Families can schedule sailings to coincide with school holidays. Built for shoreline cruising, CroisiEurope's sea-going vessel MV La Belle de l'Adriatique spends much of its time sailing in Croatia and provides a comfortable floating home from which to explore a string of coastal towns. Carrying 197 guests, the small but sturdy vessel reaches ports that are inaccessible to larger ships; itineraries include a round-trip cruise from Dubrovnik. Meals reflect the line's French heritage and lunch is always a proper sit-down affair. Sailings will appeal to active types looking to hike through Krka National Park or set out on a bike tour on the island of Vis. Resembling a swish private yacht, the 36-passenger Lady Eleganza was custom-built for cruising up the Croatian coast and provides an intimate setting for Adriatic exploration. It offers a selection of sailings, up to 14 days. This ship is small enough to moor beside islands such as Rab, where the namesake town's perfectly preserved medieval buildings are squeezed onto a narrow peninsula, as well as the seaside city of Zadar, studded with Roman and Renaissance architecture. On board, relax in the air-conditioned lounge or take the plunge and leap straight into the Adriatic from the swimming buzzing race tracks to scented spas, there's something to float everyone's boat on Norwegian Cruise Line's innovative ships. The headline port of call on Adriatic sailings is Dubrovnik, where the tender to shore provides inviting views of the city and its trove of historic buildings. Upgrade your sailing with a stay in the Haven zone: a ship-within-a-ship complex that comes with spacious top-deck cabins and 24-hour butlers plus an exclusive restaurant, lounge and sundeck. If you have little ones, look out for the family cabins close to the action of the kids' clubs and nursery catering for mini-mariners as young as six sailors can expect to be kept busy aboard MSC's fleet of colourful, glitzy vessels. There are five children's clubs for all ages (over six months), including complimentary babysitting. This gives parents plenty of time to scale the city walls that encircle Dubrovnik, explore Unesco-listed Diocletian's Palace in Split or relax on a beach, safe in the knowledge that the little ones are having fun with their shipmates. MSC has a long Italian sailing heritage and offers a choice of departure points such as Venice, Trieste and Bari, bound for Istria and the Dalmatian the Adriatic Scandi-style aboard Viking's adults-only ships — the line has several Mediterranean cruises that include Croatia. There are plenty of staterooms to choose from: those on deck seven are closest to the panoramic Explorer's Lounge. This deck is also home to the incredible 134 sq m Owner's Suite, which has a sauna, if you want to splash out. Expect plenty of nature-focused shore excursions to keep you entertained, including the chance to head to Krka National Park or visit the Dubrava Falconry Centre that cares for endangered birds of cruising comes to the fore on these elegant all-suite ships, which offer multiple shore excursions along the way. Game of Thrones fans can visit the real-life location of the fictional city of Meereen, which is actually Klis Fortress just outside Split. Or you can go on a leisurely drive through the countryside to find out how flour is produced at a 15th-century mill — rounding things off with a wine tasting. The line does welcome children, but you'll find families are in the minority outside school on a small-ship sailing adventure with the over-50 specialist firm Saga. You'll sail with 40 passengers or fewer, and discover highlights of the Dalmatian coast, including lesser-known islands, national parks and ancient walled cities. Interesting shore excursions include a visit to a stonemasonry workshop in Pucisca, and as the ships moor overnight you can wander ashore to explore in the evening. These cruises come with Saga perks including an open bar and door-to-door chauffeured transfers. Classy Ponant reflects its Gallic roots by embracing the French art of living, which, happily, means a big accent on fine food and drink, with an open bar to boot. Croatia-focused sailings take in the island of Korcula, said by locals to be the birthplace of the explorer Marco Polo, as well as stops at Split and Dubrovnik. Continuing the gastronomic theme, excursions include oyster and mussel tasting and a visit to a winery to learn about the local malvazija grape. Youngsters are allowed in limited numbers and can practise their French at the kids' club. • Best honeymoon cruises• Best western Mediterranean cruises
