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Is a Reliant Scimitar a good classic car to buy?
Is a Reliant Scimitar a good classic car to buy?

Telegraph

time02-07-2025

  • Automotive
  • Telegraph

Is a Reliant Scimitar a good classic car to buy?

Dear Alex, I'm contemplating buying a manual 1973 Reliant Scimitar GTE SE5a with 50,000 miles. What are your views on the Scimitar and is this a good version to buy? – MN Dear MN, The question of whether it's a good car to buy depends on your needs. If you want a scalpel-like driving experience, you might prefer to look elsewhere. But Scimitars are great in many ways – surprisingly useful, on account of how roomy they are, making them an accessible classic car that's good for days out with the whole family. And because there are tried and tested Ford mechanicals under the skin, there isn't much in the way of mechanical complexity, so a well maintained example should be dependable. They are comfortable and make great cruisers, especially with the 'Essex' Ford V6 engine (as used in the SE5a you're looking at). Scimitars had coil-sprung independent rear suspension, too, so they have a more sophisticated feel than, say, a contemporary Capri. Downsides? The Scimitar is often touted as having rust-proof GRP (glass-fibre) bodywork, but in truth it's the steel chassis beneath that's a concern. The example you're describing was made long before all Scimitar chassis were galvanised in 1981, so it's especially prone to rot – you'll need to get underneath for a proper look. Keep in mind that rust can start in areas that are invisible unless the body is removed (such as where the body rests on the frame) and moisture gathers. It's not a great idea to weld the chassis with the body in place, as the GRP presents a fire risk, so any serious rust repairs are better treated as a full body-off chassis restoration – which can get pricey (although small jobs, like the outriggers, might be OK). And while the GRP itself will obviously be rust-free, it can become brittle and crack or, worse still, trapped moisture can cause it to blister. So regardless of those rust-free claims, check the bodywork carefully. Engine-wise, timing gear can wear and exhaust manifolds can crack, though neither is too costly to fix. Run the car up to temperature and check it doesn't overheat, though, to make sure the fan kicks in, because the engine bay is crowded (the spare tyre is in there too) and can get hot. Check the overdrive works if it's a manual, make sure the differential isn't leaking and look for cracked or worn bits of interior trim – replacements can be quite hard to come by. And, of course, you'll have to get used to every mother and her son reminding you that Princess Anne owns one. How much to pay? One of the appeals of the Scimitar is that they are generally less costly to buy than their storied contemporaries. If it's immaculate, it's probably worth £13,000-£15,000; one that requires work will be more like £6,000-£8,000. In short, then, if the one you're looking at is sound, a Scimitar can be a rewarding and surprisingly practical classic – and one that won't cost all that much.

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