Latest news with #SabyasachiMukherjee
Indian Express
13 hours ago
- Entertainment
- Indian Express
Prada reps kolhapuri chappals: Grace is always in vogue
Long before it gave its name to one of the most iconic patterns in fashion, Paisley was just another Scottish town. Its star rose in the 19th century, when it became so well-known for its imitation Kashmiri shawls that the shawls' traditional 'buta' pattern was soon named 'paisley'. This erasure of the pattern's origin, removing it from the specific cultural context in which it was first created — the 'buta' is said to be inspired by the shape of either a pinecone or mango — makes it an early instance of cultural appropriation. But is this also what is happening with the footwear — strongly resembling Kolhapuri chappals — that the Italian fashion house Prada featured as part of its Spring-Summer 2026 collection this week? In its show notes, Prada described the footwear as 'leather sandals', with no reference to an Indian connection. This has infuriated many in India's fashion community as well as traditional makers of Kolhapuri chappals. The history of fashion, of course, is one of crosscurrents and confluences, with textiles, motifs and styles passing from region to region, and wardrobe staples in one place inspiring luxury creations in another. But fashion labels in the West have a history of appropriating and flattening different cultures — often tipping over into controversy, such as when Gucci sent out models wearing Sikh-style turbans in 2016. This understandably leads to wariness among designers and craftspeople in the Global South. Change, however, is already underway, with labels like Dior and Louboutin starting to look for collaborators, not just ideas, in other cultures — the former worked with Mumbai's Chanakya School of Craft for its pre-fall 2023 line, while the latter teamed up with designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee for a capsule collection in 2017. With Prada yet to make the details of its latest collection public, it still has the chance to give credit where it's due. Grace, after all, is one of those things that never go out of style.
Indian Express
12-06-2025
- Lifestyle
- Indian Express
‘It took me over four-five years to collect all the artefacts': Sabyasachi takes us on a tour of his ‘opulent' Delhi store
Step into Sabyasachi Mukherjee's flagship store in Delhi, and you're stepping into something much more than a boutique. It took almost nine months to bring the store to life from its design phase, but it was a commitment that spanned half a decade for the designer himself. 'It took me about over four and a half, five years to collect all the art artefacts that went into putting the store. It was quite a labour of love. It took a lot of time. I was supposed to open the store in November 2015, but I wasn't very happy with the outcome of the store, so I delayed it until March 2016. Paid a lot of rent, but I'm happy that it eventually came out the way I envisioned it to be,' Sabyasachi once told Mint in an interview. This isn't just a space to shop; it's an immersive experience. Every inch of the store—housed in a colonial-style mansion in Delhi's Mehrauli district—tells a story, rich in the unmistakable touch of Sabyasachi's India-proud design. 'Firstly, it's a very opulent store and it's a very large store. But, you know, we have kept the clutter in such a way that it does not intimidate you. It's a cosy clutter,' the designer says. The store was crafted to talk about more than couture: 'I also think that it's very important for us to talk about the real story of India, which is not in the craft story. I think the idea is for people to feel very, very nostalgic and to feel very India proud.' The space is filled with artefacts that Sabyasachi himself hunted across the country and beyond. Some were found in the Muslim parties of Calcutta, others in the chaotic treasures of Chor Bazaar, Ferozabad, and even in Puton in Italy. 'It's a miracle that we got so many. I had to hunt them from, you know, the Muslim parties of Calcutta, then some came from Chor Bazaar, a lot of them came from Ferozabad, some from Puton, Italy, a little bit from Lucknow. We started sending our teams to get as much as we could because, you know, finding old attar bottles can be quite taxing because the new ones come with modern shapes.' The store's design is emotionally tuned: the use of faded carpets, aged walls, vintage Portuguese and Dutch plates, antique mirrors, and sepia-toned photographs evokes a curated nostalgia. 'We have created different sorts of hues on the wall with faded carpets which look like they're, you know, they've been touched by the age of patina. There were a lot of distressed photographs too — portraits from the 1940s to the 1960s — which were retouched by Fuji colour and hand by my art foundation.' 'Then we had a lot of Tanjores, old antique mirrors, photographs from my campaigns, Dutch plates, old wall furniture fittings, beautiful pottery, crockery — a lot of Portuguese and Dutch plate styles.' This eclectic mix, Sabyasachi said, is intentional — aiming to surprise at every corner while evoking a sense of cultural memory.
South China Morning Post
05-06-2025
- Entertainment
- South China Morning Post
Fine and dandy: how luxury houses are embracing a return to refined accoutrements, from British labels Dunhill and Purdey, to Indian fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee
At this year's Met Gala , an unexpected accessory emerged as the evening's quiet stand-out: the walking stick. Alongside jewel-handled umbrellas, watch fobs and even an ornate monocle, these gentlemanly flourishes added a sense of old-world formality to the event's 'Tailored for You' dress code, a tribute to the tradition of Black dandyism. A$AP Rocky at the Met Gala with a custom Briony Raymond silver umbrella, set with 90 carats of diamonds. Photo: AFP Advertisement Met Gala co-chair A$AP Rocky carried a custom silver umbrella by New York jeweller Briony Raymond, set with 90 carats' worth of diamonds and with a handle shaped like a revolver (likely a nod to Rocky's recent acquittal on gun charges, as well as a reference to Umbrella, the 2007 hit by his partner Rihanna ). Bollywood legend Shah Rukh Khan was dressed by Sabyasachi Mukherjee, his look made complete with this Bengal Tiger Head cane. Photo: Invision/AP For Indian fashion designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee , who dressed Bollywood legend Shah Rukh Khan for the evening, the cane wasn't just an accessory – it was central to the look. 'Shah Rukh Khan is such an important star and often wears very simple, tailored clothing. As an icon, you don't want to detract from the public image that already exists,' said Mukherjee. ' Stars like Shah Rukh Khan don't need to be dressed in a costume – they're so big that they just need to be presented as themselves.' Khan's cane, designed for the event, was inspired by the regal traditions of the historic region of the subcontinent called Bengal. 'I also wanted to evoke the image of Bengal's nobility, who carried walking sticks often adorned with bejewelled heads of tigers, elephants and lions,' said Mukherjee. 'Depending on one's status, the heads were cast in silver or gold, and for the wealthiest, entirely encrusted with gemstones.' The Sabyasachi Bengal Tiger Head cane. Photo: Handout Mukherjee's creation was a tour de force of craftsmanship: a Bengal tiger's head cast in 18k gold, its eyes of blue sapphire, its tongue carved from pink tourmaline, and the head adorned with pastel sapphires and old mine-cut diamonds. 'The Sabyasachi Bengal Tiger Head cane is a homage to Calcutta's goldsmithing heritage, with a nod to the colonial influence of British carpentry, creating a look that is global yet rooted in the soul and traditions of India,' he said. For Mukherjee, such meticulous detail signals a broader shift towards classic elegance. 'The internet has made us incredibly lazy,' he notes. 'We are no longer as well put together, as everything is taken too casually. Dressing up is important because it instils a sense of formality and discipline. I think the world could use a reminder of standards and the importance of holding oneself to them. The act of dressing up shows effort, and that's refreshing to see in fashion.'
NDTV
20-05-2025
- Entertainment
- NDTV
Watch: Indian Woman Turns Heads As She Shows Off Lehenga On Paris Train
Indian outfits have gained significant global attention, transcending cultural boundaries and captivating fashion enthusiasts worldwide. The country's rich textile heritage, vibrant colours, and intricate designs have made its traditional attire a subject of fascination. From the elegant saree to the majestic turban, Indian outfits have been showcased on international runways, worn by celebrities, and featured in global fashion campaigns. Recently, digital content creator Nivya stunned her followers with a bold and beautiful twist on her usual European fashion content. In an Instagram video, Nivya is seen sitting serenely on a Parisian train, wearing a dazzling Indian lehenga with effortless elegance. Her confident stride and poise perfectly complemented the vibrant attire. Notably, Nivya wore a stunning, bright orange lehenga with a full, flowing shape, adorned with shiny gold thread and detailed embroidery. She paired it with a sleeveless blouse featuring traditional zari work, and added bold accessories like a maang tikka, gold bangles, a detailed ' nath', a choker, and a long necklace. "Lehenga in the metro? Because why not? Paris needed some spice today. Would you wear a lehenga on public transport? Be honest," she captioned the video. Watch the video here: View this post on Instagram A post shared by Nivya | Fashion & Lifestyle (@boho_gram) The unexpected fusion of Indian traditional wear with a Parisian setting left internet users impressed. Many loved the fact that she was comfortable in her skin and applauded her for embracing her cultural identity. One user wrote, "I wasn't ready for the absolute beauty I just got slapped with so." Another commented, 'My heart smiles every time I see a woman own her culture so beautifully." Notably, the recent global fascination with Indian attire stems from several factors. High-profile appearances by celebrities and influencers donning Indian designs at events like the Met Gala, Cannes Film Festival, and international fashion weeks have elevated their visibility. Designers such as Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, and Anita Dongre have played a pivotal role, showcasing collections that marry traditional techniques like handwoven textiles, zari, and embroidery with contemporary aesthetics, appealing to a diverse audience. Social media platforms, particularly Instagram and Pinterest, have amplified this trend, with Indian fashion inspiring bridal wear, fusion outfits, and street style worldwide.
Mint
15-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Mint
How to cinch it with a cummerbund like Shah Rukh Khan
Besides a variety of hats and walking sticks, the accessory that stood out at this year's Met Gala, or the Metropolitan Museum of Art's Costume Institute Benefit, was the cummerbund. From Shah Rukh Khan, Sabyasachi Mukherjee and Adrien Brody to Law Roach and Nick Jonas, many male celebrities sported the wide sash worn across the waist and hips in contrasting colours and prints, trying to match the 2025 theme of 'Superfine: Tailoring Black Style". Female stars, too, added the cummerbund—classically designed to flatten and smoothen the portion where the trousers meet the shirt—to their sharply tailored suits and suit-like dresses. The actor who stood out was Mindy Kaling in a custom Harbison Studios suit, with a satin white tie and red and blue embellishments, and a cummerbund doubling as a train. Also read: Are ballet flats the 'it' shoes of 2025? Long before the cummerbund (originating from the Urdu term kamarband, meaning 'waistband", sashes worn around the waist in India) became a decorative piece, it was part of the army officer's uniform during British Raj as a more comfortable alternative to the waistcoat. While it's hard to zero in on the cummerbund's origins, it was part of the clothing culture in the Ottoman Empire, Crete and Nepal. Over the years, the fashion conscious have fallen in and out of love with this accessory, once considered an integral part of the black-tie dress code. Designer brands like Saint Laurent have wrapped it like the Japanese obi. Giorgio Armani has pleated it like an accordion—just the way Shah Rukh Khan wore it as part of his Sabyasachi ensemble. Givenchy added a zip to make it more streetwear-friendly. The Met Gala, though, put the spotlight on the cummerbund, making it, what menswear designer Sandeep Gonsalves, calls the 'statement piece" of the year. 'It is the ultimate finishing touch that brings polish, proportion and personality to formal wear," says Gonsalves, the co-founder of the label Sarah and Sandeep. 'The key is fit and simplicity." The beauty of a cummerbund is that it can be worn by anyone, irrespective of their shape, size and gender and offers a defined silhouette that blurs the lines between masculinity and femininity. But you need to keep a few things in mind in case you're planning to make wear a cummerbund. Also read: Met Gala 2025: Shahrukh Khan and Diljit Dosanjh make dandyism personal For starters, a cummerbund should sit high on the natural waist and cover the trouser band cleanly. To illustrate, consider Madonna's androgynous look at the Met Gala. While her ivory Tom Ford suit, complete with tailored trousers, a matching snug blazer, and a crisp white button-down shirt, seemed on point with the theme, her cummerbund didn't cover the pants band fully, making the whole look a bit uneven. Another big no-no is a cummerbund with a belt, and slipping below the shirt line. The ideal width of a cummerbund is 5-6 inches, depending on one's body type. The choice of fabric plays a crucial role as well. Opt for a classic silk satin or grosgrain for tuxedos; velvet or fine wool can be a great option for seasonal or textured looks. Indie brands like Cord Studio have cummerbund-style leather or denim belts, which are perfect for casual/officewear. 'For slimmer frames, a broader band adds drama," says Gonsalves. 'For broader waists, a custom-tailored fit helps smooth and streamline. Women can wear it like a structured sash or corset, paired with sharp tailoring." For petite individuals, wearing it slightly higher on the waist in monochromatic tones can help elongate the frame. 'The taller bunch can play with contrasting colours, textured fabrics, and wider bands," suggests Priyanka Kathuria, a fashion curator and co-founder of wardrobe consultancy Altique. 'It's a versatile accessory and can be worn over shirts, skirts, and blazers. If you want to make it part of a streetwear-style outfit, pair it with high-waisted pants and tucked-in tee or oversized shirts." That's the other reason for the growing fondness for cummerbunds. Fast-fashion brands like Zara and H&M are experimenting with its shape, offering garments such as denim long A-line skirts and a pair of jeans with cummerbund-style band, helping create a formal-meets-casual look. It's a great example of how a simple, old-school formal wear accessory can make you look effortlessly cool. 'A cummerbund is a unique accessory because it can accentuate proportion in smaller waists, and in broader waists," says fashion stylist Vikram Seth. 'It's a clever styling tool, snatching the waist, elongating the torso, and adding drama without shouting." Also read: Can the corset be the new shirt? Manish Mishra is a Delhi-based writer and content creator.
