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Why 50,000 Iconic French Shirts, Intended for America, Sit in Storage
Why 50,000 Iconic French Shirts, Intended for America, Sit in Storage

New York Times

time03-07-2025

  • Business
  • New York Times

Why 50,000 Iconic French Shirts, Intended for America, Sit in Storage

As fabric spooled out of a bank of knitting machines in a flare of blue-and-white stripes, workers at the Saint James clothing factory in France's Normandy region stacked them into piles and cut along patterns to make the company's iconic Breton sailor's shirt, worn by celebrities and adored by fans worldwide. Luc Lesénécal, the company's chief executive, surveyed an enormous workroom splashed with a rainbow of yarns. Seamstresses had recently put the finishing touches on 50,000 striped shirts and sweaters to fill orders for American stores like Nordstrom and J. Crew. But his plans to ship for the fall retail season have been thwarted by President Trump's up-and-down tariff threats. Instead of loading the merchandise into cargo planes, Mr. Lesénécal has parked his entire U.S. export in the company's warehouse, where it will sit until Wednesday, the deadline Mr. Trump has set for Europe to come up with a deal or face tariffs of up to 50 percent. 'This is yo-yo politics we've been dealing with,' Mr. Lesénécal said, gesturing around a factory the size of three football fields, where 300 longtime employees turn out 1.5 million shirts, sweaters, scarves and coats a year. 'If we don't have visibility, we can't move forward.' He is not alone. European industry has been whipsawed since Mr. Trump announced a barrage of trade actions aimed at rewiring the global economy. America's imposition of 10 percent tariffs on most goods from the European Union, and scattershot threats to push the rates to 20 or 50 percent, has led companies to freeze projects, seek exemptions and prepare to raise prices. Image Luc Lesénécal, the chief executive of Saint James, says his business with the United States has been upended by President Trump's tariffs. Thank you for your patience while we verify access. If you are in Reader mode please exit and log into your Times account, or subscribe for all of The Times. Thank you for your patience while we verify access. Already a subscriber? Log in. Want all of The Times? Subscribe.

Saint James seeks clarity on U.S. tariffs as trade deadline nears
Saint James seeks clarity on U.S. tariffs as trade deadline nears

Fashion Network

time27-05-2025

  • Business
  • Fashion Network

Saint James seeks clarity on U.S. tariffs as trade deadline nears

'At Saint James, we need clear rules.' At the headquarters of French fashion label Saint James, based in Manche, Normandy, management is calling for greater stability amid ongoing trade discussions between the European Union and the United States over import tariffs. Not far from Mont-Saint-Michel, textile workers at the Saint James workshop (pronounced 'Saint-Geamme') produce sweaters, pea coats, and the brand's iconic Breton striped shirts. The company generates approximately €80 million in annual revenue, with 40% coming from exports—one-third of that to North America. Naturally, this mid-sized enterprise—with 400 employees, including 300 in Normandy—is closely watching the latest announcements from the U.S. administration regarding tariffs. The cotton Breton shirt, sold at €95 in France, currently retails for $140 in the United States. 'With a 16.5% tariff, that price could jump to $155,' explained Luc Lesénécal, president of Saint James, who recently returned from New York after attending the opening of a pop-up store. 'That's a significant increase, especially considering that over the past two years, we've already faced numerous price hikes due to rising costs of raw materials, cotton, labor, and energy,' said Lesénécal. 'In exporting, we're used to managing exchange rates and fluctuations in raw materials and energy,' he added. 'But when tariff rates shift—sometimes even retroactively—it becomes much harder to plan ahead.' On Monday, French President Emmanuel Macron said he was 'confident' about EU–U.S. trade discussions, following President Donald Trump 's announcement that he would extend the suspension of tariffs on EU goods until July 9. Just days earlier, Trump had threatened to impose a 50% duty on imports from the 27 EU member states starting June 1. In this uncertain context, Manuela Horeau, international sales director at Tricots Saint James, raised concerns about timing in the fashion industry, which typically operates six months ahead of each season. 'Do we pass on the full increase to consumers? Do we do it right away or gradually? It all has significant implications. And what will other brands do?' she asked. Brad Pitt and George Clooney Saint James has had a presence in the U.S. market for over 20 years and is stocked in 150 stores. Still, Lesénécal remains optimistic, convinced that the brand's garments reflect the 'French art of living' and a craftsmanship that American consumers continue to value. Inside the main workshop, textile artisans work beneath a large black-and-white poster featuring Brad Pitt and George Clooney wearing Saint James pieces on a sidecar. It's a striking symbol of the brand's cultural resonance across the Atlantic. Skilled hands—mostly women—focus on producing garments such as the sailor-style wool sweater, which requires 18 production steps, 23 kilometers of wool yarn, and at least 15 days from knitting to finishing. In the quality control room, Viviane Rête, head of the department, described the artisanal nature of the work: 'We work with our hands—machines can't do this. We only use a knitting needle and our eyes.' A symbol of the long-standing connection between Saint James and the United States, the Stars and Stripes flies near the factory entrance. A nearby monument commemorates August 2, 1944, when American forces established a forward base in the town. Today, 4,410 U.S. soldiers are buried in the Normandy American Cemetery—a powerful reminder of shared history. Saint-James (France), May 27, 2025 (AFP)

Saint James seeks clarity on U.S. tariffs as trade deadline nears
Saint James seeks clarity on U.S. tariffs as trade deadline nears

Fashion Network

time27-05-2025

  • Business
  • Fashion Network

Saint James seeks clarity on U.S. tariffs as trade deadline nears

'At Saint James, we need clear rules.' At the headquarters of French fashion label Saint James, based in Manche, Normandy, management is calling for greater stability amid ongoing trade discussions between the European Union and the United States over import tariffs. Not far from Mont-Saint-Michel, textile workers at the Saint James workshop (pronounced 'Saint-Geamme') produce sweaters, pea coats, and the brand's iconic Breton striped shirts. The company generates approximately €80 million in annual revenue, with 40% coming from exports—one-third of that to North America. Naturally, this mid-sized enterprise—with 400 employees, including 300 in Normandy—is closely watching the latest announcements from the U.S. administration regarding tariffs. The cotton Breton shirt, sold at €95 in France, currently retails for $140 in the United States. 'With a 16.5% tariff, that price could jump to $155,' explained Luc Lesénécal, president of Saint James, who recently returned from New York after attending the opening of a pop-up store. 'That's a significant increase, especially considering that over the past two years, we've already faced numerous price hikes due to rising costs of raw materials, cotton, labor, and energy,' said Lesénécal. 'In exporting, we're used to managing exchange rates and fluctuations in raw materials and energy,' he added. 'But when tariff rates shift—sometimes even retroactively—it becomes much harder to plan ahead.' On Monday, French President Emmanuel Macron said he was 'confident' about EU–U.S. trade discussions, following President Donald Trump 's announcement that he would extend the suspension of tariffs on EU goods until July 9. Just days earlier, Trump had threatened to impose a 50% duty on imports from the 27 EU member states starting June 1. In this uncertain context, Manuela Horeau, international sales director at Tricots Saint James, raised concerns about timing in the fashion industry, which typically operates six months ahead of each season. 'Do we pass on the full increase to consumers? Do we do it right away or gradually? It all has significant implications. And what will other brands do?' she asked. Brad Pitt and George Clooney Saint James has had a presence in the U.S. market for over 20 years and is stocked in 150 stores. Still, Lesénécal remains optimistic, convinced that the brand's garments reflect the 'French art of living' and a craftsmanship that American consumers continue to value. Inside the main workshop, textile artisans work beneath a large black-and-white poster featuring Brad Pitt and George Clooney wearing Saint James pieces on a sidecar. It's a striking symbol of the brand's cultural resonance across the Atlantic. Skilled hands—mostly women—focus on producing garments such as the sailor-style wool sweater, which requires 18 production steps, 23 kilometers of wool yarn, and at least 15 days from knitting to finishing. In the quality control room, Viviane Rête, head of the department, described the artisanal nature of the work: 'We work with our hands—machines can't do this. We only use a knitting needle and our eyes.' A symbol of the long-standing connection between Saint James and the United States, the Stars and Stripes flies near the factory entrance. A nearby monument commemorates August 2, 1944, when American forces established a forward base in the town. Today, 4,410 U.S. soldiers are buried in the Normandy American Cemetery—a powerful reminder of shared history. Saint-James (France), May 27, 2025 (AFP)

Saint James Opens Manhattan Pop-Up, Making Its Stateside Retail Debut
Saint James Opens Manhattan Pop-Up, Making Its Stateside Retail Debut

Business Mayor

time26-05-2025

  • Business
  • Business Mayor

Saint James Opens Manhattan Pop-Up, Making Its Stateside Retail Debut

The Saint James for Printemps pop-up Photo by Charles Roussel courtesy of Saint James Whether it was Coco Chanel co-opting the striped 'mariner' pullover named for the French fisherman who sported them or Jean Seberg's penchant for wearing them in the 1960 film, these classic tops are synonymous with French style. According to Printemps CEO Jean-Marc Bellaiche, the newly opened New York outpost of the famous Parisian department store is on a mission to bring hard-to-find French brands to the US to be featured in its revolving main floor pop-up space. After debuting with Jacquemus and Coperni X Disney, the latest Gallic brand to debut is Saint James, which opened its first US retail space just in time for New York's famous fleet week. Luc Lesénécal, Thierry Prévost, Benjamin Auzimour Photo by Charles Roussel courtesy of Saint James To kick off the event, Luc Lesénécal, CEO of Saint James, Benjamin Auzimour, Managing Director of Saint James North America, and Thierry Prévost, CEO of Printemps America, hosted an intimate cocktail for press and VIPs for a sneak peek at the offerings. 'I'm thrilled to celebrate the opening of the Saint James pop-up shop at Printemps New York,' said Auzimour in a release. 'Both Saint James and Printemps share an authentic connection to French culture, making this pop-up a natural fit. With our shared French heritage, Printemps is the perfect location to showcase our summer collection and introduce Saint James' timeless apparel to a new audience in New York City.' The Saint James pop-up at Printemps NY Photo by Charles Roussel courtesy of Saint James The store channels Parisian apartment chic inside the Art Deco landmark at One Wall Street. As guests enter through a sculptural glass entrance on Broadway, which flows into the vibrant Playroom — a striking space anchored by multicolored marble, they are immediately welcomed to the exclusive Saint James pop-up. The installation captures Saint James' coastal French heritage with a fresh, timeless feel. Clean lines, crisp nautical details, and deep navy carpeting set the tone. A bold white stripe traces the ceiling's curve, morphing into an undulating shelf that mirrors the building's architecture. The navy, white, and subtle red palette nods to the seaside and seamlessly blends into Printemps' signature French elegance. It perfectly recollects the brand's origins, dating to 1899 in Normandy, boasting places like Deauville that captured Chanel's heart. The designer was famously inspired by the wool knit jersey tunic tops worn by the fishermen there. The immersive space is meant to evoke a breezy, coastal retreat in the midst of the Financial District. The American customers can peruse Saint James' iconic wardrobe essentials for the whole family with selections men, women, kids, even dogs plus unisex styles. Signature Breton stripes and nautical classics sit alongside the Summer 2025 collection featuring sun-washed hues, timeless silhouettes, and the brand's traditional Mer blue — an homage to the South of France. An exclusive offering includes a collaboration with Korean artist Maria (Taehyoung) Jeon who embroidered delicate florals onto the Minquiers Moderne long-sleeve Breton tees adding an artistic edge to the classic style. The Saint James pop-up at Printemps New York (One Wall Street, NYC) is open to the public for a limited one-month run, offering an introduction to the renowned Normandy craftsmanship with no passport required.

Saint James Opens Manhattan Pop-Up, Making Its Stateside Retail Debut
Saint James Opens Manhattan Pop-Up, Making Its Stateside Retail Debut

Forbes

time25-05-2025

  • Business
  • Forbes

Saint James Opens Manhattan Pop-Up, Making Its Stateside Retail Debut

The Saint James for Printemps pop-up Photo by Charles Roussel courtesy of Saint James Whether it was Coco Chanel co-opting the striped "mariner" pullover named for the French fisherman who sported them or Jean Seberg's penchant for wearing them in the 1960 film, these classic tops are synonymous with French style. According to Printemps CEO Jean-Marc Bellaiche, the newly opened New York outpost of the famous Parisian department store is on a mission to bring hard-to-find French brands to the US to be featured in its revolving main floor pop-up space. After debuting with Jacquemus and Coperni X Disney, the latest Gallic brand to debut is Saint James, which opened its first US retail space just in time for New York's famous fleet week. Luc Lesénécal, Thierry Prévost, Benjamin Auzimour Photo by Charles Roussel courtesy of Saint James To kick off the event, Luc Lesénécal, CEO of Saint James, Benjamin Auzimour, Managing Director of Saint James North America, and Thierry Prévost, CEO of Printemps America, hosted an intimate cocktail for press and VIPs for a sneak peek at the offerings. "I'm thrilled to celebrate the opening of the Saint James pop-up shop at Printemps New York," said Auzimour in a release. "Both Saint James and Printemps share an authentic connection to French culture, making this pop-up a natural fit. With our shared French heritage, Printemps is the perfect location to showcase our summer collection and introduce Saint James' timeless apparel to a new audience in New York City." The Saint James pop-up at Printemps NY Photo by Charles Roussel courtesy of Saint James The store channels Parisian apartment chic inside the Art Deco landmark at One Wall Street. As guests enter through a sculptural glass entrance on Broadway, which flows into the vibrant Playroom — a striking space anchored by multicolored marble, they are immediately welcomed to the exclusive Saint James pop-up. The installation captures Saint James' coastal French heritage with a fresh, timeless feel. Clean lines, crisp nautical details, and deep navy carpeting set the tone. A bold white stripe traces the ceiling's curve, morphing into an undulating shelf that mirrors the building's architecture. The navy, white, and subtle red palette nods to the seaside and seamlessly blends into Printemps' signature French elegance. It perfectly recollects the brand's origins, dating to 1899 in Normandy, boasting places like Deauville that captured Chanel's heart. The designer was famously inspired by the wool knit jersey tunic tops worn by the fishermen there. The immersive space is meant to evoke a breezy, coastal retreat in the midst of the Financial District. The American customers can peruse Saint James' iconic wardrobe essentials for the whole family with selections men, women, kids, even dogs plus unisex styles. Signature Breton stripes and nautical classics sit alongside the Summer 2025 collection featuring sun-washed hues, timeless silhouettes, and the brand's traditional Mer blue — an homage to the South of France. An exclusive offering includes a collaboration with Korean artist Maria (Taehyoung) Jeon who embroidered delicate florals onto the Minquiers Moderne long-sleeve Breton tees adding an artistic edge to the classic style. The Saint James pop-up at Printemps New York (One Wall Street, NYC) is open to the public for a limited one-month run, offering an introduction to the renowned Normandy craftsmanship with no passport required.

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