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Forbes
03-07-2025
- Forbes
Why You Should Be Stocking Up On The Alpine Wines Of Alto Adige
Vineyards in the Merano area of Alto Adige. TIBERIO SORVILLO Alto Adige, or Südtirol as most locals prefer, is Italy's northernmost wine region. It's a place where vineyards cling to high mountain slopes, pressed between the soaring Alps and the jagged limestone faces of the Dolomites. Covering just over 5,800 hectares of vines, it is one of the country's most compact, yet geographically fragmented, wine territories. The vineyards follow the Adige river for nearly 100 kilometres, but dramatic altitude shifts, changing exposures, and varied soils demand precise viticulture. The topography undoubtedly influences the wines here, but Alto Adige is defined by a constant duality. Alpine and Mediterranean climates, Germanic and Italian identities, whites and reds of equal standing, this is a viticultural landscape built on contrast, and is all the richer for it. For those willing to navigate its intricacies, the reward is wines of startling quality, purity, and distinction. Lovers of crisp, mineral-driven whites will find much to enjoy, from Sauvignon Blanc to Pinot Bianco, while Gewürztraminer is as good here as anywhere. Reds from lesser known varieties will find plenty of charm in Schiava and Lagrein. Alto Adige's wines can be complicated wines for English speakers to get their head around however. The region is fiercely protective of its identity; primarily German-speaking, but administratively Italian, Alto Adige-Südtirol has its own distinct culture. The dual-language nature of wine labelling can confuse casual browsers and sow uncertainty. German often leads, and you're far more likely to see "Sankt Magdalena" on the bottle than 'Santa Maddalena' for example. Is that a grape variety? you ask. No, it's a subzone, famous for growing Vernatsch, or, as Italian speakers would say, Schiava. New vocabulary overload yet? You'd be forgiven. Wineries can legally choose to label their wines as either Alto Adige or Südtirol - or reference both - but it remains a voluntary expression of identity, not a legal obligation. Fortunately, bi-lingual labelling is widespread, and as president of the Consorzio Eduard Bernhard says, that reflects both cultural pride and the practicalities of trying to reach a broader market. 'We're very much products of our history. This region used to be part of the Austro-Hungarian empire. We're not really Italian, but we're also not German. We're who we are, proud of our mountain culture.' Further complexity emerges as one peers into Alto Adige's geographic designations. Beyond the broad Alto Adige DOC, a patchwork of official sub-zones is in place to offer clues in terroir differences. There are six in total: Val Venosta, Meranese, Terlano, Santa Maddalena, Colli di Bolzano, and Valle Isarco. These distinctions matter. The steep slopes of the Valle Isarco TIBERIO SORVILLO Take Valle Isarco, a cool, granite-soiled valley near the Austrian border, producing racy, high-acid whites like Kerner and Sylvaner. Terlano is famed for its ripe Chardonnay, and near Bolzano, Lagrein thrives in the valley floor's heat-retaining soils, giving spicy, structured reds. Santa Maddalena is synonymous with Schiava (or should we say Sanct Magdalena and Vernatsch?), and it also grows well in Merano. Such names can blur together at first, and deciphering them all is part of the Alto Adige wine puzzle. Perhaps these distinctions don't matter enough however. The DOC is set to introduce 86 Unità Geografiche Aggiuntive (UGAs), adding to these sub zones with a model similar to Barolo's MGAs or Burgundy's official climats. The goal? Greater transparency around origin and terroir. In theory, this could help spotlight Alto Adige's remarkable vineyard diversity - granite slopes, volcanic porphyry, glacial moraines - all compressed into just under 6,000 hectares of fragmented vineyards, layered across extreme altitudes. In practice though, is there a risk of adding yet more confusion to an already intricate region, especially for international markets that might still be learning to distinguish Südtirol from Alto Adige? Of course for the moment, adding 86 names to the appellation's lexicon is a colossal amount of additional information to thrust at the consumer, but, like many attempts to infuse territory with prestige, it is a long term project. Bernhart, reflects that not all of them will become famous. 'We have created a framework to showcase our terroir, but of course, only a handful of these will really enter the wine lover's consciousness.' Marc Pfitscher of Cantina Girlan is supportive. 'When observing the century-old Vernatsch vineyards in the UGA 'Gschleier', one cannot help but be captivated by their historical and viticultural significance.' He believes that these characteristics are reflected in tasting. 'This for me is the very definition of authenticity and for this reason, we are firmly committed to the preservation of these vineyards and actively promote them.' Another stand out site is likely to be Gries. Across a body of just over 270 hectares, located on the edge of Bolzano, you will find the largest and most important concentration of Lagrein vines. For those passing visiting, the key landmark is the historic abbey of Muri-Gries which is now a fully operational winery. The wine to track down is a Lagrein Riserva named after the plot it grows on - Vigna Klosteranger - a beautiful expression of the variety. Manfred Bernard who has recently taken over the winemaking there says, 'for people in Bolzano the UGA is recognition, not complication. We all know Lagrein grows well here. This recognition will help people from around the world know about Lagrein too.' A bottle of Lagrein, showing Südtirol on the label. Muri-Gries Christian Pisetta, export manager at Alois Lageder, one of the top producers in the region also defends the complexity. 'Through the UGA system, we now have a more precise tool to currently delineate and communicate these differences, allowing for a clearer expression of place in the glass.' Inevitably, consumers will latch onto the sites that deserve the attention most and over time, as producers embrace the vehicle for single site wines, consumers will gain familiarity with them. The system should enrich the conversation around the territory and ultimately deepen Alto Adige's labyrinthine identity. Pisetta reflects further on the long term aspiration. 'Is this really what we need? I think so. We recognise that this landscape is not static. With ongoing climate change and global warming, what is considered an ideal terroir for a certain variety today may shift tomorrow.' The strength of Alto Adige lies in its multitude of elevations, soil types and microclimates, which gives the region flexibility, but will almost certainly demand adaptability. 'The identification of the best sites for specific grape varieties must remain dynamic' he says. 'What is considered an ideal terroir for a certain variety today may shift tomorrow.' A reminder of the extremes of mountain viticulture in Alto Adige. Alto Adige DOC / Christian Gufler On the flip side, we have a more detailed map to understand Alto Adige's diversity. It is arguably Italy's most varietally broad wine region, today cultivating over 20 grapes with genuine success. This versatility reflects the region's extraordinary range of altitudes, from valley floors at 200 metres, to mountain vineyards cresting 1,000 metres. This mosaic of microclimates encourages growers to match varieties with a suitable terroir, especially when we consider that of the nearly 5000 growers, the average landholding is just one hectare. In the last couple of decades, the region has proven that international varieties such as Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, and Pinot Noir flourish here, particularly at higher elevations where cool nights preserve acidity and aromatics. The results have been undoubtedly impressive. Sauvignon Blanc, in particular, found an ideal home. Wines like Terlano's 'Winkl' reveal piercing minerality, citrus precision, and longevity that places them among Italy's finest expressions of the grape. Chardonnay, notably from cooler pockets near Eppan and Terlano, ranks quietly among Italy's best. These wines balance ripeness with taut minerality, drawing quiet comparisons to Burgundy, yet framed by alpine clarity. Terlano vineyards, high up in the hills, showing the mix of elevation and micro climate. Cantina Terlano Although Chardonnay has been in Terlano since the late 19th century, at Cantina Terlano, cellar master Rudi Kofler has overseen more than 30 years of progressive work with the variety. He says 'Chardonnay is well consolidated here. It gives a very interesting component of tropical fruits, and in our Kreuth Chardonnay you can feel it alongside fine acidity and a creamy structure. Thanks to its complexity and mineral note, this powerful Chardonnay is a very long‑lived wine.' Pinot Bianco too is impressive, taking on a stone fruit character that lifts it above some of the duller wines you may find further north. In the Terlano sub zone it is frequently blended, to the point where it feels wrong to deviate from what is now a classic mix: 70 % Pinot Bianco, 25 % Chardonnay, 5 % Sauvignon Blanc. It is best observed in Cantina Terlano's 'Novus Domus' Koffler summarises that 'this distinct Terlano cuvée embodies all the strengths of the region in a full-bodied multifaceted mineral wine that takes years of aging in the bottle to achieve its full potential.' Similarly, Pinot Nero (noir) has emerged as capable and serious as anywhere else in Italy, especially from cooler sites with limestone-rich soils. Cantina Girlan is at the forefront of its growing reputation. Their 'Trattmann' Pinot Nero Riserva is one of the best examples, flaunting supple red fruit, earthy nuances, and a tension that hints at Burgundy, yet is unmistakably Alpine. Marc Pfitscher, who handles sales and marketing at the winery, says 'Trattmann embodies our long-standing commitment to achieving the highest quality, reflecting efforts spanning from 1985 to the present day.' This success was born of the need for change however. Alto Adige's big identity crisis came in the 1980s when demand for the local Schiava plummeted. The long standing tradition of extracting as yield as possible was struggling to cope with competition for better wines from elsewhere. Schiava, meaning slave in Italian, is thought to be named after its tendency to accumulate to encourage so much fruit and weight that the vine would bend in on itself. Wolfgang Klotz - director of the co-operative cellar Cantina Tramin - reflects that 'the old system of pergola trained Schiava wasn't working, so people were open minded for change.' The flavour profile may not have been fashionable at the time, but yields were too high and quality wasn't good enough. Klotz reminisces that telling people to leave half their crop on the floor wasn't easy, but, 'trying to get quality out of this unique valley has given us the power to preserve our traditions and landscape.' Without a market for the wines, the landscape would inevitably need to convert to alternative industry. The sub zone of Santa Maddalena / Sankt Magdalena where the slopes over looking the city of Bolzano have become renowned for light red wines from Schiava. IDM/Südtirol Wein/Tiberio Sorvillo Growers never fully abandoned their traditional grapes however. A combination of pride, nostalgia, and pragmatism kept Schiava and Lagrein in the vineyards, perhaps awaiting their moment of rediscovery. These have never been better, shedding that reputation for dilution and rusticity that plagued them during through late 1970s and early 80s. Today the best examples of Schiava are delicately floral and weightlessly complex, when grown on suitable sites. Producers like Girlan are at the forefront, crafting Schiava with restraint, finesse, and a nod to Alpine tradition. They are reds for the curious - bright, translucent, carrying wild strawberry, herbs, and an undercurrent of mountain freshness. As Pfitscher says, 'in my view, the flavoral purity, freshness, and drinkability of this grape variety are unique qualities that align perfectly with current consumer preferences and market trends.' Gewürztraminer provides another local conundrum. Often a polarising grape for its aromatic intensity, it produces very good wines in Alto Adige and deserves the attention. It is grown around the village of Tramin, where it is thought to take its name. The first plantings of red Traminer were made by Archduke Johann in Appiano in 1848. Shortly thereafter, selected locations in Bolzano, Merano, Bressanone, and Termeno were also planted with the vines. Today it is the region's most recognisable aromatic export - opulent, spicy, floral, often excessive for some palates. In recent years, a shift toward gastronomic restraint has emerged. Producers like Cantina Tramin craft benchmark examples that maintain exotic spice and rose petal lift while dialling back overt sweetness, especially when paired with food. The rosy skins of Gewürztraminer or, red traminer. Florian Andergassen Wolfgang Klotz says, 'We have a beautiful elegance in our Gewurztraminer. We don't plant it too high because it needs a lot of heat, and sun.' The variety is the most planted variety among co-operative of over 300 members and benefits from the village's clay soils. Klotz points out that 'it's a tricky variety to grow, and very selective of its site. The clay retains humidity, which helps cool the vines at night.' Produced in very low quantities is the exceptional 'Epokale' a sweet, late harvest wine. Klotz enthuses about its ability to develop. 'It's after 10 years that Gewurz really shows itself. You have to wait to get the complexity out of the wine. The spice really comes through.' Alto Adige is not an easy region to grasp but through its complexities it produces outstanding wines that belong in any serious cellar. Its dual language, layered labels, grape diversity, and evolving concepts of site specific expressions of different varieties demand closer inspection. Undeniable freshness (climate change not withstanding) provides these wines with the backbone for longevity. For those willing to navigate the complexities, the rewards are profound. Here, duality defines everything: Alpine cool meets Mediterranean warmth; German precision blends with Italian flair; international grapes excel alongside revitalised natives; whites and reds increasingly share the limelight. This is a region of depth, and thankfully, constant evolution. More importantly, it is place of real where real people farm an untenable single hectare to protect their landscape. For any wine lover seeking discovery, Alto Adige deserves to be firmly on the radar. Its complexity shouldn't put you off, it's the very reason the wines resonate with such authenticity and intrigue. Christian Pisetta believes strongly that complexity is a defining virtue for Alto Adige and plays an essential role in shaping the region's identity. 'We're situated at the cultural and climatic crossroads between southern and Northern Europe' he says. 'It is extremely complex - linguistically, culturally, and geographically. This richness is not a challenge to overcome but a strength to embrace.' Is this the moment to stock up on Alto Adige's wines, before the rest of the world fully fathoms out their virtues?
Yahoo
17-06-2025
- Business
- Yahoo
Alto Adige Wines, Vintage 2024: Exceptional in Vineyard and Cellar
Lighter, elegant and modern wines emerge after a challenging growing season in Alto Adige BOLZANO, Italy, June 17, 2025 /PRNewswire/ -- With the release on the US market of the 2024 vintage of many Alto Adige wines, the Consorzio Alto Adige Wines has recently gathered some interesting data about the vintage and its unique characteristics. The overall 2024 vintage in Alto Adige presented considerable challenges for winegrowers, resulting in reduced yields in several areas. Yet, despite these difficulties, expectations for this vintage remain exceptionally high. The wines promise to be lighter, elegant, and distinctly modern, showcasing the region's longstanding commitment to quality. A Year Marked by Weather ExtremesWeather data confirm that 2024 was one of the most challenging growing seasons in recent memory. An unusually mild winter gave way to an early bud break around March 20, but this was soon followed by a sharp frost a month later, causing widespread damage across vineyards. The spring continued to test growers with cool, cloudy conditions that limited photosynthesis, leading to fewer grape clusters and smaller berry size. "The lowest yields were recorded for Lagrein, Gewürztraminer, and Pinot Grigio, while Schiava, Merlot, and Riesling were more resilient during flowering," noted Hansjörg Hafner of Alto Adige's Advisory Council for Fruit and Winegrowing. In Valle Isarco, Andreas Huber of Pacher Hof in Novacella near Bressanone, reported yield losses ranging from 15 to 70 percent, while Martin Lemayr, cellar master at Cantina Colterenzio, shared that some plots experienced total crop losses. Challenging Year, Delayed HarvestThe meteorological challenges of 2024 meant that the harvest in Alto Adige took place later than usual, with frequent interruptions due to rain. "The delay gave us a bit of breathing room," said Huber with a smile. "It was a demanding year that required patience, flexibility, and constant vigilance in the vineyards." In hail-affected areas, grapes were carefully sorted by hand to ensure only the best fruit made it to the cellar. Frost and humidity added to the year's challenges. Veronika Pfeifer of Pfannenstielhof in Bolzano confirmed the difficulties growers faced: "This vintage required not only precise and careful manual labor in the vineyard, but also flexibility and timely decision-making." Pinot Varieties ShineThanks to careful canopy management and rigorous sorting, grape quality remained high despite the volume losses. Pinot varieties—particularly Pinot Nero—stood out, reaching ideal ripeness and health. Martin Lemayr's assessment of the Pinot Nero from the 2024 vintage was therefore correspondingly positive:"It is characterised by fresh fruit aromas such as raspberry and sour cherry and has a very clear, bright and luminous colour. The wines are lower in residual sugar and show great freshness, elegance, and a fine tannin structure." On the other hand, late-ripening, tannin-rich reds faced the greatest challenges. Achieving full maturity required impeccable timing and exceptional care during harvest. "Some 2024 special Reserves were not produced this year, as only a few vineyards reached full ripeness," Lemayr added. Focus on Native GrapesAmong Alto Adige's native reds, Schiava wines performed relatively well, showing slightly lower alcohol levels than in previous years. Veronika Pfeifer summarized the vintage's profile as "fresh, fruity, and fine." The region's second most important native red variety, Lagrein, was more affected by adverse weather conditions—particularly frost and poor flowering—which led to somewhat reduced yields. Still, Pfeifer described the wines as "harmonious, smooth, and velvety." White Wines Benefit from Cool Conditions: Fresh Fruit and Finesse In contrast to reds, Alto Adige's whites appear to have benefited from the season's cooler conditions. "Cool September weather enhanced flavor development, resulting in freshness, fruit and finesse," said Andreas Huber. Noble rot and damp weather contributed to exceptional quality, especially for Riesling, Kerner, and Sylvaner from Valle Isarco. "We are very confident about the 2024 vintage", Huber added, "Low yields and extended ripening laid the foundation for wines with exceptional finesse and aging potential." Lemayr echoed this optimism: "Whites like Chardonnay and Pinot Blanc reveal fine, fresh fruit and an elegant, delicate structure. Aromatic varieties such as Sauvignon Blanc show precise, cool, slightly greenish aromas and a well-integrated, balanced acidity. Lower alcohol levels make these wines even more approachable and enjoyable." About The Consorzio Alto Adige WinesThe Consorzio Alto Adige Wines was formed in 2007 to promote and strengthen the image of the wines from Alto Adige. One of Italy's smallest wine-producing regions, Alto Adige is also one of its most multifaceted. Twenty grape varieties are cultivated on vineyards stretching from Mediterranean-influenced valleys to Alpine hillsides, tended by individual growers, small family-wineries, and cooperatives alike. For media enquiries: press@ T +39 0471 978 528 / 339 1895544 View original content to download multimedia: SOURCE Consorzio Alto Adige Wines Error in retrieving data Sign in to access your portfolio Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data Error in retrieving data
Forbes
24-04-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Innovation Marks The Wines Of Italy's Northernmost Region, Alto Adige
Italy's northernmost wine region produces distinctive wines that share profiles of opening. Many wish to export to the USA and are monitoring the tariffs situation carefully. I spoke with Alexandra Cembran, Head of Marketing at Consorzio Alto Adige Wines when she visited New York last month. The wine-growing regions throughout Alto Adige. Adige wines have a long history that straddles Italy and Austria and can be confusing to the American consumer. Can you distinguish the types and differences of modern AA winemaking? Marketing director for Südtirol Wein Bini Alto Adige Alexandra Cembran Wines from Alto Adige are distinguished by their exceptional terroir, where Alpine and Mediterranean climates converge, creating ideal conditions for viticulture. The region's diverse soils, shaped by the Alps, support over 20 grape varieties, allowing each to thrive in its optimal environment. With over 300 sunny days annually, the area benefits from warm days and cool nights, enhancing the development of aromatic and fresh wines. Alto Adige's winemaking community is deeply rooted in tradition, yet embraces innovation and sustainability, ensuring the continued evolution of its wine culture. Schiava was for a long while the predominant grape of AA, yet it was not held in high regard. How is this changing? The Schiava grape has long been dominant in the viticulture of Alto Adige The Schiava grape, also known as Vernatsch, has a long history in Alto Adige, gaining prominence centuries ago and for most of the 20th century was by far the most cultivated variety in Alto Adige. After the 1980's, Schiava's popularity waned in favor of international varieties, but in recent decades, it has seen a revival due to its unique, expressive characteristics and ability to reflect the region's terroir. Today, less than 10% of Alto Adige's vineyards are planted with Schiava, meaning its cultivation has been reduced to those vineyard areas where the variety, which is quite demanding in cultivation, finds ideal growing conditions. These growing areas are, among some others, the areas historically known for growing Schiava, such as Santa Maddalena, Lago di Caldaro or the surroundings of Merano. Vineyards in Alto Adige are in view of the Alps. Are there young winemakers––sometimes within an old family––who are leading the innovations? Yes, Alto Adige is fortunate to have many small winegrowing families, where the fortunes of the businesses are passed down from generation to generation. However, there has also been an exciting generational change in many wine estates and cooperative in recent years. Responsibility is handed over to the younger generation with pride and high expectations. They are given full confidence, which means that the region is constantly renewing itself and moving with the times. The young generation of winemakers in Alto Adige is in many cases highly trained and globally networked, breaking new ground without forgetting the achievements of their predecessors. These winemakers are all about innovation, sustainability, and authenticity, ensuring that Alto Adige's wines remain dynamic and future-forward while honoring their historical roots. The great diversity in viticulture in Alto Adige is also reflected in the many different styles and personal philosophies of many (young) winegrowers, many with their own personal signature and the special features of the local terroir in the wines they produce. Some examples: AA wines have historically been made by co-operatives. Has this changed to single estates? Wine cooperatives in Alto Adige have a long history dating back to the late 19th century, when local grape growers came together to pool resources and improve wine production. The first wine cooperative in Alto Adige was Cantina Andriano, founded in 1893. Economically, these cooperatives have been and still are crucial for small farming families, providing a vital support system for local, small-scale agriculture, producing high-quality wines, which is unique in the world. Today, cooperatives are still responsible for around 70% of Alto Adige's wine production, along with 32 private wine estates and around 100 independent wine growers. How many wine growers and how many wineries are there in AA? There are 4.800 farmers cultivating 5.850 ha (14,456 acres) of vineyards, which is less than 1% of Italy's total winegrowing surface. We speak of small-scale agriculture as the average vineyard area per winegrower is just 1 ha (2.5 acres). 70 % of the grapes are vinified by 12 cooperatives, 25 % by private wine estates and the rest by around 100 families of independent winegrowers. What are your top three export countries? Our top market is Italy with the regional home market in Alto Adige being highly relevant. This is followed by Germany and the USA, then Switzerland, Japan, United Kingdom the Netherlands Belgium and Canada. Alexandra Cembran says the winemakers and importers of Alto Adige ar e taking a wait-and-see ... More attitude towards the Trump tariffs. How do you see the Trump tariffs affecting AA's wine industry? We are convinced that there is great potential in the USA for the fresh, mineral and aromatic white wines from our region and we are also noticing interest in our autochthonous grape varieties. We are watching the current developments on the US market with concern. The lack of a coherent customs policy together with the many contradictory statements we are hearing from the American government are creating an increasingly precarious and uncertain situation for our American customers. Our wineries notice that some importers are reacting with a wait-and-see attitude. We are very sorry to see that the current American government is causing considerable difficulties for the American wine industry. Nevertheless, many Alto Adige wineries have long-standing business relationships in the USA, and we are of course committed to ensuring that these continue to exist and can be expanded in the future. The vineyards in winter in Alto Adige AA has a colder climate than most of Italy. What grapes are best suited to that climate? The combination of cool Alpine climate, sunny days, and cool nights creates a unique terroir ideal for producing high-quality wines, in particular, to preserve acidity and to enhance aromatic complexity in the wines. The region benefits from plenty of sunshine, especially on south-facing slopes, ensuring optimal grape ripening. The mountainous terrain creates microclimates, allowing for a diverse range of grape varieties. It is important to notice that in Alto Adige there are to be found variegated microclimates in the different winegrowing subzones. Next to cool climates, there are also very warm terroirs i.e. in the valley basin of Bolzano, known for growing heat-loving Lagrein. Has global climate change affected grape farming and harvest timing? The Alps are an extremely sensitive ecosystem affected by climate change more than other regions in the world, mainly due to an increasing number of extreme weather events, such as hail or early periods of warm weather that may lead to early bud burst. The most obvious sign is that the timing of the harvest has been brought forward in recent decades. Nevertheless, the continuity of winegrowing in Alto Adige is not threatened by the changing climate. Farmers are very attentive and answer the new challenges together with researchers from the field, i.e. by exploring growing grapes at elevated altitude, by adapting new grape varieties, an innovative canopy management as well as the use of technical means to improve the water management. Trentino and AA have long been linked as a territory and wine region. How are they distinct? Although Trentino and Alto Adige are neighboring provinces that together constitute the region of Trentino-Alto Adige and share centuries of common history as part of the Austria-Hungary Empire, winegrowing in the two areas is drastically distinct, which becomes especially evident in the great difference in grape varieties grown. Alto Adige is situated further north and has greater temperature variations between day and night due to its higher altitudes and steep, mountainous terrain. Trento, located slightly south of Alto Adige, has a more moderate climate. Trento, while also producing high-quality still wines, is better known for its sparkling wines, with its Trento DOC being one of the top sparkling wine designations in Italy.
Forbes
31-03-2025
- General
- Forbes
Wine Of The Month: A Biodynamic Schiava From Alto Adige
An easy-going red from Alto Adige You might not immediately think of red wine when you think of Italy's northeast, where white is the dominant category. But the region is home to indigenous reds—from Valpolicella, of course—to the Venezia/Veneto area and the Dolomites. The Schiava grape produces a light-bodied red. In Italy, it is native to the South Tyrol/Trentino/Alto Adige region in the foothills of the Dolomite Mountains, and documented as far back as the 16th century. Today it is produced as a light wine with smooth, ripe tannins, floral violet notes and juicy berries. The grape has various names, depending on where it's from, but many versions attach 'Vernatsch' to the name (German for 'vernacular') and that makes sense in Alto Adige, where German is commonly spoken alongside Italian. This version comes from Alois Lageder, a family winery established in 1823 and, today, a biodynamic producer in its sixth generation cultivating 30 varieties. The estate produces wines in three primary lines: Classical Grape Varietals, Compositions and Crus, and also smaller bespoke labels, Misto Mare, Comets and Rarum. The family has farmed biodynamically since 2004, becoming certified in 2008. They cultivate 135 acres of family-owned biodynamic vineyards and work with some 60 vintners in another 210 acres of organic or biodynamic vineyards. Alois Lageder's 2023 Schiava is redolent of plum and raspberry and on the palate delivers tart red and plush black fruits with some spicy undertones. This is a fresh, modern medium-bodied style, with smooth tannins that's easy to drink and yet has a little earthy edge. There's plenty of mouthwatering acid, thanks to the high-elevation vineyards and the cooling influence of the Dolomite mountains. The 2022 vintage echoed the 2023, its fruits a little more mellowed out and giving way to more forest-y floor and earthy notes. Serve at room temperature or with a light chill. Enjoyable with a range of foods, from pizza to roast salmon. SRP: $18 - $19
