Latest news with #Sesimbra
The Independent
15-07-2025
- The Independent
Less than an hour from Lisbon, this little-known region is home to some of Portugal's best beaches
With the sun just beginning to rise over the Atlantic, I'm bracing myself to step into cold, crystal clear water when suddenly I see them: a pod of dolphins cuts through the mirror-like surface just metres from where I stand. One by one, around a dozen leap into sight, curving around the mountainside from the open ocean and into the sheltered bay, before slipping out of sight. I'm standing on the sands at the foot of Arrábida Natural Park, a protected coastal region around 45 minutes' drive south of Lisbon, in Sesimbra – the seaside village I have called home since 2015. Although I've long heard rumours of these marine visitors, it's the first time I've seen them close to home since I discovered this place almost by accident, having fallen deep into a rabbit hole of Lisbon-based property hunting. The waters here are crystal clear but cold year-round, which is how I've added cold water swimming to trail running as part of my lifestyle here – all the better to balance the dangerously affordable local wines, delicious cheeses, and regular barbecue sessions. Now, interest in Arrábida is quietly building and the signs of change are already visible. The former four-star Sesimbra Hotel & Spa has been revamped and rebranded as the five-star Sesimbra Oceanfront, where guests now wind their way down to the beach clutching takeaway cups of bubble frappe from the newly opened Crazy Bubble Sesimbra. At the same time, in the back streets locals still sip strong espressos that cost less than 60p and restaurants grill fresh-from-the-ocean fish on rustic charcoal grills set out on the cobbles. Sesimbra, the fishing village where I've made my home, sits at one end of Arrábida Natural Park, a 176-square-kilometre protected area founded in 1976 that stretches to the coastal city of Setúbal. Here, the blue of the sea alternates with white limestone cliffs and dense Mediterranean vegetation covering the mountain range. The park's nomination for Unesco Biosphere Reserve status would further protect this unique ecosystem where limestone mountains meet the Atlantic. When I first set eyes on the region back in 2015, it felt like winning the jackpot. Capped by a medieval castle on a hill and with calm, clear waters sheltered from the wild Atlantic, back then, Sesimbra was a truly under-the-radar beach town, where rugged mountains slope down towards beaches with white sand and turquoise water. Nearby Ribeiro do Cavalo beach – accessible only by steep, rough trails or via the water – often gets compared to beaches in Thailand. Energetic types can kayak there, and in summer, taxi boats make the short, choppy trip out. Once-hidden beaches like this have become an open secret with Lisbon locals, thanks in part to dramatically improved bus links to and from the city. The beaches that dot the Arrábida coast are frequently named among the most beautiful in Portugal. A short drive from Sesimbra via one of the most beautiful, if hair-raising, roads in the country, the N379-1, is the perfectly picturesque Portinho da Arrábida, where simple fish restaurants sit on stilts over the water. From here, the coast stretching towards Setúbal is dotted with forest-flanked beaches, each seemingly more beautiful than the next. These paradise beaches can be challenging to reach in high season (June-September) without a bit of planning. The delicate ecosystem has prompted authorities to restrict private car access (Ubers and Bolts are permitted and widely used) to the most popular beaches during peak summer months and police blockades turn away hopeful drivers at checkpoints along coastal roads. The alternatives are shuttle buses from Setúbal to spots like Portinho da Arrábida and Figueirinha, hiking the coastal trails or kayaking along the coast. It's a necessary measure for this protected landscape, where unspoiled beaches remain limited to a handful of beachfront restaurants, and where it's not unusual to see families of wild boar rummaging for scraps nearby. Off-season spring and autumn months offer pleasant beach days without the coastal confusion and with easier access to secluded spots. The coastline, with its hidden coves – including one with a steep climb down to a small chapel tucked inside – can be explored by boat or coasteering expedition with adventure operators like Sesimbra-based Vertente Natural. For those preferring to explore on foot, the park offers excellent trail running and hiking routes that I've come to know intimately over the years. Further treasures lie inland. Arrábida sits within the Setúbal Peninsula wine region and is dotted with wineries, from celebrated estates such as the historic José Maria da Fonseca – which makes some of Portugal's oldest table wines from its handsome headquarters in the picture-perfect wine town of Azeitão – to small-scale producers like Quinta de Alcube. This off-the-beaten-track winery, surrounded by vineyards and sun-baked hills, is where locals spend long, lazy afternoons under the shade of cork trees, at tables laden with local cheeses, olives and charcuterie. Don't be afraid to dip bread into the olive oil and the buttery sheep's milk cheese, queijo de azeitão. If you can't choose between nature and easy access to beaches, restaurants and excellent wine then Casa Palmela strikes the middle ground in handsome style. This refined but homely pousada offers a wonderful restaurant on-site and acres of winding trails suitable for horse riding or hiking, and is within easy reach of nearby beaches and wineries. Even at the height of summer, days and nights here are interrupted by birdsong and hooting owls rather than crowds or traffic. For wild waves, easy beach access and an enormous stretch of sand, the beachfront neighbourhood of Meco is a popular choice, with bars that buzz in summer and mansion homes housing discreet boutique hotels such as Quinta do Miguel. Even as word spreads, the region still feels like a well-kept secret. When I arrived in 2015, I knew very few other foreigners in Sesimbra, and the culinary offering reflected the village motto: 'Sesimbra is fish.' This is indeed a seafood-centred town, with locals known as 'peixitos' or little fish. Today, the growing international community means locals are as likely to sip a spicy margarita as the town's traditional o pescado r (fisherman) liqueur. While there's an increasing number of international eats and vegan cafés, the fish here remains a huge part of the appeal for foodies. If Setúbal is rightly proud of its choco frito (fried, breaded cuttlefish served with chips – the local version of fish and chips), Sesimbra holds the crown for fresh fish. Locals queue out the door at the cash-only, no-reservations Tasca do Isaías, where the catch of the day is chalked up by the entrance each morning, and tables and chairs sit at rakish angles on the flagstones outside. Don't miss espadarte (swordfish) if it's on the menu. The cobbled back streets remain filled with traditional marisqueiras selling platters of shellfish and crustaceans, but there's visible modernisation along the beachfront: one half of long-standing local seafood spot Ribamar is now Ribabar – a languid, tastefully-lit space serving artfully plated sashimi and pan-Asian seafood dishes. Transport links have dramatically improved since I moved here. The same company that operates Lisbon's buses now runs services to Sesimbra, and a €40 monthly pass covers both, making the village a popular day trip destination for Lisboetas. The protected status means that as Arrábida gains deserved international attention, there's little danger of high-rises blooming among the wildflowers that change colour with the seasons. At the height of summer, I still find splendid isolation on morning trail runs and cold water swims, and – even without the dolphins – swimming across the bay as the sun rises over the forested hills always feels magical. Lucy Bryson was a guest of Casa Palmela. TAP Air Portugal and Ryanair fly direct from London Heathrow to Lisbon from £89 return. Take the bus from Lisbon Sete Rios to Sesimbra (45 minutes outside rush hour) or rent a car for greater flexibility in exploring the wider region. Where to stay
Forbes
27-06-2025
- Forbes
Escape The Crowds: The Best Portuguese Beaches Only The Locals Know
Find your own private beach in Portugal... getty The spectacular coastline is one of the top draws for people looking to retire to Portugal… The problem? Tourists! Most visitors flock to the southern Algarve region and these beaches can be overly crowded during the summer. Luckily, when you live here, you get to know the lesser-known spots and the places where only the locals know to go. Here are some of the top beaches to enjoy if you're looking to avoid crowds and beach like a local in Portugal… Nude Beach Culture Naturism in Portugal is legally permitted in designated areas, and while not mainstream, it has a growing and respectful community. There are several official nude beaches in Portugal, and nudity is tolerated at many more. These beaches are well signed, so you'll know when you enter the clothed or unclothed areas. getty The country has nine officially recognized naturist beaches and many more where naturism is tolerated, usually at one end of beaches that have long stretches of sand. Designated nude beaches offer a safe and legal space to enjoy the sun and sea without clothing. Official naturist beaches include: · Praia do Meco near Sesimbra · Praia da Barreta in the Algarve · Praia da Adegas in Odeceixe These are typically more secluded and promote values of body acceptance, freedom, and harmony with nature. Though public nudity outside these areas is not allowed, tolerance is generally high in remote or less crowded coastal spots, especially when practiced discreetly. Algarve's Unknown Shores The Algarve, Portugal's southernmost region, is famous for its stunning coastline. The dramatic limestone cliffs, sea caves, and turquoise waters make this one of Europe's main beach destinations—but there are still a few beaches here that are less known by foreigners… Praia do Amado Situated on the western coast of the Algarve, Praia do Amado is a favorite among surfers. Exposed to Atlantic swells, it offers consistent waves and hosts international surf competitions. Unlike some southern beaches, it retains a wild, undeveloped charm. The reddish cliffs, expansive sandy area, and rolling dunes make it ideal for long walks and wave-watching. Praia do Amado is one of the lesser-visited beaches in Algarve getty Praia da Ilha de Tavira On the eastern side of the Algarve, near the town of Tavira, lies Ilha de Tavira, a barrier island accessible by ferry or water taxi. Unlike the cliff-backed beaches to the west, this stretch of coastline is flat and backed by dunes. The waters here are warmer and calmer, ideal for swimming. The beach is long and wide, so even in the summer, it won't be too difficult to find a spot. Alentejo's Undercover Coasts The Alentejo coast, running from the Algarve to the Setúbal region, is a bit less crowded and more rugged than its southern neighbor. It's a place where cliffs meet untamed beaches and the pace of life slows down. Praia da Zambujeira do Mar This small beach town becomes livelier in August during the MEO Sudoeste music festival, but the beach itself is worth visiting year-round. Sheltered by cliffs and close to the village center, Praia da Zambujeira offers dramatic scenery and good surf. Despite its popularity, it still has much of its low-key charm. Praia da Zambujeira do Mar is a treat for beach lovers as well as cliff hikers getty Praia da Samoqueira Just north of Porto Covo, Praia da Samoqueira is a lesser-known gem. Small, rocky, and with natural pools at low tide, it's perfect for those seeking a more intimate connection with nature—and children who love to splash around in the pools. The surrounding cliffs and rock formations add to the sense of seclusion. Praia do Malhão This wide beach, located within the Sudoeste Alentejano e Costa Vicentina Natural Park, is relatively undeveloped. With no permanent structures on the beach itself, it retains a raw, untouched feel. The waves are strong, making it popular among surfers, while the long stretch of sand is ideal for solitude-seeking beachgoers. Lisbon's Lesser-Known Locations Even the area surrounding the capital offers a surprising number of excellent beaches. Whether you seek windsurfing, sunbathing, or dramatic scenery, you don't have to travel far from Lisbon. Praia do Guincho Located just north of Cascais, Praia do Guincho is famous for its strong winds and large waves, making it a hotspot for wind and kitesurfers. Its expansive sandy area, framed by dunes and overlooked by the Sintra mountains, gives it a wild and remote feel despite being less than an hour from Lisbon. Sunset here is nothing short of cinematic. Praia da Adraga Tucked between cliffs in the Sintra-Cascais Natural Park, Praia da Adraga feels hidden yet theatrical. The winding road to reach it builds anticipation and adds to the sense of discovery. If you love photography, you'll be glad to know this beach is a favorite spot for those looking for picture-perfect sunsets and rock formations (watch out for the 'elephant' on the left). Adraga also has a well-known small but good restaurant serving fresh fish and seafood. From it's rock formations to its spectacular sunsets, Praia da Adraga is a dramatically beautiful beach getty Central Portugal Charms Stretching between Lisbon and Porto, the Silver Coast (Costa de Prata in Portuguese) is known for its surf spots, lagoons, and picturesque seaside towns. It sees fewer tourists than the Algarve but offers equally captivating experiences. Foz do Arelho Located near Caldas da Rainha, Foz do Arelho is where the Óbidos Lagoon meets the Atlantic. This dual nature creates two very different beach experiences: the lagoon side, with its calm, shallow waters, is perfect for children and stand-up paddleboarding, while the oceanfront waves are great for surfing and bodyboarding. Foz do Arelho offers both ocean waves and a quiet lagoon—something for every kind of beach lover getty Northern Cool Waters The beaches of northern Portugal may have cooler waters, but they make up for it with unique settings, rich cultural backdrops, and fewer crowds. Praia de Miramar South of Porto, this beach is best known for the 18th-century Senhor da Pedra chapel perched on a rock outcrop right by the sea. The contrast between the small white church and the surrounding elements of sand and sea creates an almost surreal image. The beach itself is spacious, and the sunsets here are especially memorable. Praia de Moledo Close to the Spanish border, Praia de Moledo is popular among windsurfers and kiteboarders due to its brisk Atlantic winds. The beach has a distinctive charm, with views of the nearby fortress and the forested hills of the Minho region in the background. Praia da Apúlia What makes Apúlia truly unique are the historic windmills that still stand along the dunes. The beach combines natural beauty with a sense of cultural heritage. It's popular with families and also attracts photographers and history buffs. Apúlia is one of the most beloved spots along the Portuguese Coastal Route of the Camino de Santiago. Freshwater Escapes River beaches, or praias fluviais , offer a different kind of beach experience. Set against forests, hills, or historic villages, these inland spots provide clean, calm waters and a less touristy vibe. Praia Fluvial de Loriga Tucked within Portugal's highest mountain range, this river beach is set in a glacial valley. Surrounded by granite peaks, it's perfect for nature lovers and hikers looking to cool off in crystal clear waters. Icy cold and uninviting or fresh and invigorating? You decide. Praia Fluvial de Fraga da Pegada Located in the Azibo Reservoir Protected Landscape, this beach offers clean, safe swimming in an artificial lake created by a dam. Sandy banks, clear water, and facilities like showers and picnic areas make it family-friendly. Canoeing and paddleboarding are popular here. Praia Fluvial do Reconquinho Near Coimbra, this river beach on the Mondego River is shaded, peaceful, and often overlooked. Surrounded by eucalyptus and pine trees, it's a great place for picnics and swimming. Praia Fluvial do Alamal On the banks of the Tagus River, Alamal beach stands out thanks to a picturesque wooden walkway that hugs the riverbank and leads to Belver Castle. It combines historical charm with natural beauty. The sandy stretch is well-equipped and ideal for families. Praia Fluvial de Monsaraz Created by the Alqueva Dam, this beach near the medieval village of Monsaraz offers expansive views and calm waters suitable for several water sports. As one of the newer river beaches, it has good infrastructures and easy access. MORE FROM FORBES Forbes 5 Places In Portugal That Are Great For Retirees By Kathleen Peddicord Forbes 5 Places To Enjoy A Sunny, Stress-Free Overseas Retirement In 2025 By Kathleen Peddicord Forbes Moving To Belize: A Guide For Americans By Kathleen Peddicord Forbes Live Rich From $1,200 A Month In These 4 Thai Expat Havens By Kathleen Peddicord
