04-07-2025
Shintaro Awa appointed to head the kitchen of L'Ambroisie in Paris
Shintaro Awa, formerly the chef de cuisine of the three-Michelin-starred Epicure of Hotel Le Bristol in Paris, has taken over esteemed chef-owner Bernard Pacaud's role at the stalwart L'Ambroisie in Paris.
L'Ambroisie is a dining icon. Opened in 1981 by Pacaud, it went on to earn three Michelin stars in 1988, a feat it has maintained till this day. In November 2015, U.S. President Barack Obama dined with French President Francois Hollande at the restaurant. The establishment also made an appearance in the 2019 Japanese drama series, 'La Grande Maison Tokyo,' in which Takuya Kimura's character trained at the restaurant.
The 77-year-old Pacaud announced his gradual retirement two years ago. In 2023, he sold a majority share of his restaurant to Butler Industries — an investor in France's luxury and lifestyle sectors that also owns Pierre Herme Paris — but continued to oversee the restaurant during its two-year handover period.
In July 2023, chef Christophe Moret, who was previously working at Shangri-La Paris, was announced as his successor. But Moret left the job after only two months as the philosophies of the two chefs did not align.
Pacaud's son, Mathieu, is a chef who used to work with him, but the pair reportedly have different culinary styles: In 2015, Mathieu decided to set up his own restaurants, ruling out the chance of a family succession.
A top Parisian chef, who has declined to be named, introduced Awa to Butler Industries' founder Walter Butler as a possible replacement for Pacaud. Pacaud was already aware of Awa's talent, having tasted his food at Epicure and being impressed with his minimal style and deft cooking techniques. Convinced by his potential, he agreed to hire him.
Together with L'Ambroisie's new owner, Butler Industries' CEO Walter Butler (center), chef Awa will continue the fine dining legacy of his predecessor, Pacaud (right). |
BUTLER INDUSTRIES
Awa, 39, is a devotee of French cuisine. Inspired by the legendary Japanese chef Masao Saisu who worked with Pacaud at L'Ambroisie, he left Japan for France in 2004 when he was just 18 years old. He started his career in Restaurant Regis & Jacques Marcon in Haute-Loire in 2007, before moving to Restaurant Paul Bocuse in Lyon in 2009 and Alain Ducasse au Plaza Athenee in Paris in 2012. In 2013, he was hired as a sous-chef at Epicure before being promoted to chef de cuisine in 2022.
A fan of Pacaud's food, Awa recalls being impressed by the chef's famous sea bass escalopes with sliced artichoke and caviar, describing the dish as 'no frills but (filled with) perfection.' He calls Pacaud a true shokunin (craftsman), a chef who has kept his head down and focused only on his cooking even though he has the fame of retaining three Michelin stars for 37 years.
'His passion to deliver delicious food to the guests is what I admire,' says Awa. 'I want to be such a chef. Since the start of my career, I've wanted to be such a shokunin.'
Pacaud says Awa possesses the 'rigor, humility and passion that make great chefs.'
'I'm very happy to support him and open the doors of this great establishment that is so dear to my heart,' he adds. With his successor found, Pacaud will officially retire, bringing an end to a nearly 45-year career in the echelons of French fine dining.
For nearly 45 years, Pacaud stuck by his brand of classic French cuisine, offering simple, precise dishes such as sea bass escalopes with sliced artichoke and caviar. |
KYOKO NAKAYAMA
On July 1, Butler Industries officially became L'Ambroisie's new owner while Awa formally took over the kitchen as its executive chef. In August, the restaurant will undergo a renovation, which would likely be completed by autumn.
L'Ambrosie made a name for itself as a place for traditional French cuisine, and Awa plans to continue this legacy.
'I don't want to do fusion. The only Japanese element I would like to express is 'minimalism,'' he says. 'I don't want to put too many components in one dish. I'll only add what is truly necessary — whether it's vegetables, spices, a sauce or condiments — to enhance its texture. I would like to showcase the beauty of French ingredients.'
