12 hours ago
Must-see sights, street food tours and fine dining: How to spend 72 hours in Da Nang, Vietnam
The late, great chef, traveller and raconteur Anthony Bourdain loved Vietnam like few other destinations. He filmed eight programmes there and memorably said of the country: 'Vietnam. It grabs you and doesn't let go. Once you love it, you love it forever.'
It's impossible to disagree with his much-missed wisdom and a 72-hour hop to the central coastal city of Da Nang, the country's third largest just a two-and-a-half-hour flight from Singapore, showcases how Vietnam blends food, culture, landscapes and history to such dazzling effect.
WHERE TO STAY
During the Vietnam War – or the American War, as locals understandably call it – Son Tra Mountain was known as Monkey Mountain thanks to residents including red-shanked douc langurs. Today these beautiful primates, who look like they're wearing knee-high red socks, enjoy the peaceful surrounds of their mountainside nature reserve that is also home to one of southeast Asia's most spectacular resorts, Intercontinental DaNang Sun Peninsula Resort.
It's the only resort in Vietnam with its own funicular tram. The Nam Tram lets guests glide effortlessly from the perfect curving arc of a private beach up to the elegant, expansive main building with all the hallmarks of starchitect Bill Bensley's quirky design motifs blending Vietnamese and French colonial era influences. If the resort has shades of the most recent series of White Lotus, that's because Bensley also designed the hillside Four Seasons Resort Koh Samui, which features in the show, along very similar lines.
Heaven, Sky, Earth and Sea are the four levels across 39 hectares, home to 189 expansive rooms, villas and suites with gorgeous sea views and colourful interiors. There are several large infinity pools, including one which is adults-only, a sublime spa, nature walks and other experiences to keep guests of all ages entertained.
STREET FOOD
A brilliant way to get a real feel for Da Nang comes with a small group guided food tour led by bilingual young Vietnamese who are thrilled to share their region's dishes with international visitors. The excellent Helen from @danangcuisine led ours, taking us to four spots serving up local classics, starting with the iconic Da Nang noodle dish, mi quang.
The genius comes in the layers of textures and flavours as fresh greens, banana blossom, herbs, rice noodles and shrimp all vie for your palate's attention in a slow-boiled broth made of pork, beef, fish and chicken bones, finished with turmeric. You're not done yet, however, as a squeeze of lime for acidity, the optional zing of coriander and crunchy peanuts and rice crackers complete the sensory journey.
Banh xeo was the other standout in the two-and-a-half-hour tour, enjoyed at what many consider the city's best, Banh Xeo Ba Duong. Savoury crispy pancakes – the Vietnamese name comes from the sizzle or "xeo" as they cook – are layered in rice paper with options including smoky grilled pork skewers and fresh herbs. Then dunk them in an addictive brown sauce made from pig liver, peanuts, chili, garlic, shrimp paste and more.
There are, naturally, countless other places to choose from for local dishes at scarcely believable prices, so the tried and trusted mantra of simply looking where there are plenty of customers invariably does the trick.
EXPERIENCES AND EXCURSIONS
Da Nang is a large port city with an impressive tree lined boulevard along its substantial main beach, My Khe, which offers dozens of places to kick back, chill, or eat and drink. As with so many destinations, simply getting lost amongst the maze of streets is a huge draw, watching daily life and the quirks of local culture play out.
Dragon Bridge in the centre of the city is unmissable, especially when illuminated at night, and also allows for a visit to Son Tra Da Nang Night Market which features street food and trinket vendors.
Another bridge, Golden Bridge, has also become a hugely popular draw, thanks to a 500m span seemingly held aloft by two vast stone hands. Sitting west of Da Nang, it's a slightly surreal experience as it lies within an amusement park called Ba Na Hills which also features the world's longest cable car, amongst many other attractions.
Above all, no visit to Da Nang is complete without heading 35 minutes down the coast to the ancient merchant town of Hoi An. It's rightly one of central Vietnam's most iconic sights and well worth a day of your time to explore its beguiling lantern-filled laneways, waterways, seventeenth century Japanese bridge, pagodas and French colonial mansions.
SHOPPING
Hoi An is where you'll want to indulge in retail therapy as it's especially well known for dozens of tailors offering off-the-rail or bespoke garments which are usually turned around and ready to pick up in less than 24 hours.
They're happy to make copies of your favourite designs, or let you craft your own from seemingly endless swathes of materials. I avoided the main tourist heart of Hoi An, instead choosing a random shop called Simon the Tailor a couple of doors down from one of the town's most famous banh mi vendors, The Banh Mi Queen. The young team helped me choose a cut, fabric and finishes, and less than 24 hours later I had a beautifully tailored blazer delivered to my hotel, all for under US$70 (S$90).
Galleries also abound, offering works of vastly differing quality, but there's sure to be something for every taste and price point. Lanterns and lights are another very popular draw, while for foodies a jar of Tuong Ot sticky chilli jam, unique to Hoi An, is a must. It's the perfect addition to the beloved local noodle dish, cao lau, of smoky pork and noodles, fresh herbs and bean sprouts.
FINE DINING
Dining in Vietnam simply doesn't get any finer than at the one-starred Maison 1888 at Intercontinental DaNang Sun Peninsula Resort. That's the case now more than ever as culinary legend Christian le Squer, from the three Michelin-starred Le Cinq in Paris, oversees the tasting menus which are beautifully crafted by Chef Florian Stein and his team.
Stunning French dishes with Vietnamese accents included Japanese turbot cooked in brown butter, with grated pear. Gnocchi with saffron, black olives and basil broth was also sublime, especially paired with a Laurent Perrier Grande Cuvee from one of the country's finest wine cellars, awarded by Wine Spectator and led by a seriously impressive young Vietnamese sommelier, Toan Nguyen.
Other high-end dining options include classic French with a seafood emphasis at Cabanon Palace, Cantonese at The Golden Dragon and Italian with Vietnamese twists at Si Dining. Then for those seeking Japanese, the brand new Tingara from Japanese chef Junichi Yoshida features a circular dining space overlooking the ocean, home to flawless teppanyaki and sushi omakase, paired with an enviable sake collection.
GENERAL ADVICE
Da Nang's climate ranges from a low of around 18 degrees Celsius in January to highs of 35 degrees Celsius in the peak of a sweltering summer. The dry season runs from January to August, while the wet season extends from September to December, with heaviest rainfall typically in October and November.
Getting around is easiest via Grab which offers very reasonable fares, but if you're feeling more adventurous, rent a moped from a reputable company – and ensure you have good insurance.
