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The Price of Tradition: Spanish Tapas and Morocco's Culinary Crossroads
The Price of Tradition: Spanish Tapas and Morocco's Culinary Crossroads

Morocco World

time29-06-2025

  • Business
  • Morocco World

The Price of Tradition: Spanish Tapas and Morocco's Culinary Crossroads

Picture yourself in Madrid's bustling streets, with the ambient sound of chatter, the lingering scent of olive oil, the clinking of sangria glasses on sunlit terraces—at the heart of all this is the humble tapa. This iconic symbol of Spanish cuisine ranges from simple olives to extravagant seafood dishes, reflecting the daily pleasures of Spanish life. Yet, even in today's globalized economy, this tradition is being reshaped by tourism, supply chain disruptions, and shifting consumer trends. Globalisation has brought both opportunities and challenges to local economies worldwide, and tapas are no exception. The influx of tourists eager for an 'authentic' Spanish experience has increased demand for these famous dishes, particularly in major cities. Prices for key ingredients have risen sharply—food prices in Spain have increased by around 29.7% in the past three years—placing pressure on both restaurants and consumers. But, the culinary story doesn't stop in Spain. Just across the Strait of Gibraltar, Morocco finds itself navigating a similar situation. The two countries share centuries of culture and culinary exchange, rooted in history, trade, and geography. As tapas become increasingly globalised, their influence—and the economic forces surrounding them—spread outward, affecting Moroccan gastronomy in unexpected ways. Tapas across the Strait Historically, Andalusia represented a gastronomic bridge between Spanish and Moroccan culture. Dishes featuring preserved lemons, cumin, chickpeas, and slow-cooked meats crossed the Mediterranean, transferring key culinary traditions from North Africa to Spain. Today, Moroccan tourists visiting Spain frequently look for tapas bars, not only for the local immersion, but for the cultural familiarity they share with this small-plate dining tradition. Similarly, Moroccan cafés in cities like Casablanca and Tangier offer more and more Spanish-influenced dishes, appealing to locals and European visitors alike. This culinary exchange symbolises a wider interdependence embedded into Mediterranean traditions—a relationship amplified by globalisation. While Spanish tapas are commercialized abroad, their cultural identity often blends with other regional influences. In Morocco, that influence is not just aesthetic: it belongs to a larger economic dialogue between the weight of heritage and the pull of modernisation. Tourism and seasonality Spain's booming tourism sector has further influenced tapas pricing. Last year, in June alone, tourists spent €12.3 billion in Spain, driving the economy of local food businesses. However, the seasonal nature of tourism causes price volatility. During peak summer months, tapas prices can skyrocket, only to fall in the off-season. In addition, according to the Instituto Nacional de Estadística, the overall prices of food in Spain have increased by 2.2% in May compared to the same month last year. Rising food prices and seasonal volatility, driven by the growing demand for authentic cuisine, have made it increasingly difficult for consumers and restaurant owners to navigate the fluctuations of tourist spending. A similar trend is taking place in Morocco, particularly in popular tourist cities like Marrakech and Fez, where Moroccan mezze—small plates similar to tapas—have become a highlight of the tourist dining experience. Restaurants are adjusting their pricing and ingredients to cater to tourists' preferences, alongside the development of ecotourism—often at the cost of traditional authenticity. In both countries, the balance between preserving local identity and meeting tourist demand remains delicate. Supply chains and shared struggles Morocco has seen increased pressure on agriculture in recent years: a prolonged drought in 2023, with rainfall nearly 70% below average, decreased olive-oil output and triggered emergency water conservation measures, pushing prices upward. This marked the third consecutive year of declining olive-oil production as persistent high temperatures and lack of rainfall devastated crops across key agricultural regions. Meanwhile, Moroccan fishermen, particularly in the north, are seeing export markets decline with reduced yields and the EU's annulment of the fisheries deal. Across the Strait, rising food costs in Spain are driven by global supply chain disruptions—a legacy of the pandemic, geopolitical tensions, and climate change. Tapas bars have had to innovate to survive. For instance, olive oil prices doubled in 2023 alone, driven by drought and poor harvests in Jaén, Andalusia's primary olive-producing region. Seafood costs have also surged as fishing industries adapt to shortages and rising fuel costs. These shared struggles highlight how two neighboring economies, strongly connected to food and agriculture, are adapting in parallel ways to global pressures. For both countries, small-plate traditions like tapas or Moroccan mezze carry a lot of cultural weight: they are simple in scale yet rich in heritage. Authenticity or commodification? In Morocco, concerns are growing over how traditional Moroccan cuisine is being reshaped for global consumption. Tagines, couscous, and pastilla are increasingly presented in stylised, social media-friendly formats for Western tourists—potentially risking a loss of authenticity in the name of commercial appeal. Spain is confronted with a similar dilemma and has seen tapas become a global phenomenon. Tapas has started to become trendy on social media, creating a worldwide interest in Spanish-themed restaurants around the world. Although the draw is positive, the downside is that these trendy recipes often prioritize international tastes rather than preserving traditional flavors. The commodification of national cuisines presents both opportunities and challenges. On one hand, it promotes culinary heritage to wider audiences; on the other, it risks removing the cultural context in which these dishes were created. For chefs in both Spain and Morocco, the question remains: Can we preserve authenticity while staying relevant in a globalised market? Shared opportunities: A culinary future Despite this, globalization holds a power of great innovation and cultural connection. With cross-Mediterranean exchange, fusion restaurants, and festivals, culinary diplomacy enables both countries to share their diverse cultural heritage to the global stage. Spain and Morocco have cooperated on several cultural and gastronomic initiatives, including the Mediterranean Diet Foundation, which promotes sustainable agriculture and cuisine in both nations. In Morocco, the young and middle class demographics are contributing to the surge of interest in culinary innovation. In cities like Rabat and Casablanca, emerging food businesses are giving tapas and mezze a Moroccan twist, blending locally sourced ingredients with modern dining trends. Spanish chefs visiting Morocco for culinary tourism are likewise exploring Amazigh and Arab-Andalusian roots of Mediterranean cuisine. Culinary heritage in a changing world Whether in the tapas bars of Seville or the rooftop restaurants of Marrakech, the small plate of tapas or mezze remains a powerful cultural symbol. In both Spain and Morocco, these dishes serve as reminders of family, heritage, and the shared joy of a gathering around the table. But globalisation complicates the story. Rising food prices, climate challenges, and tourism-driven economies mean that these once-simple pleasures are now tied to market forces and shifting consumer expectations. What began as a local tradition is now a global product—and with that visibility comes vulnerability. Nevertheless, there is potential in this evolution. If approached with care, small plates like tapas and mezze can be cultural ambassadors, bridging continents and inspiring cross-cultural dialogue. In both Spain and Morocco, the challenge lies not only in preserving culinary heritage, but in adapting it—preserving historical roots while embracing a future where tradition and innovation coexist. Tags: culinary diplomacySpain and Morocco

EAT Detroit event draws raises money for Detroiters in need
EAT Detroit event draws raises money for Detroiters in need

Yahoo

time10-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Yahoo

EAT Detroit event draws raises money for Detroiters in need

A dining frenzy tantalized the palates and taste buds of more than 1,000 patrons on Monday, June 10, with signature dishes from restaurants around downtown Detroit and Corktown. Diners roamed the streets of Corktown and downtown at the annual EAT Detroit event, dashing into restaurants and feasting on samplings of signature dishes and drinks for the restaurant crawl-style event. A highlight of this year's event is it began and ended with a VIP reception at the historic and renovated Michigan Central Station in Corktown. Mitch Albom, Detroit Free Press columnist, founded and hosts EAT Detroit. The event is a fundraiser for SAY Detroit, the nonprofit Albom founded 20 years ago that helps Detroiters in need. Albom mirrored, with permission, a José Andrés Dine-N-Dash event that he attended in Washington, D.C. The Andrés event follows a similar concept of visiting an array of restaurants and also has a charitable arm that benefits the renowned chef's World Central Kitchen. In its five years, Albom said the event has raised nearly $1 million. 'I think in our fifth year, this sort of cements the event as a permanent red letter, you know, charity day on the calendar,' Albom said. Various diners said the excitement and highlight of this year's event was its beginning and ending receptions at Detroit's stunning Michigan Central Station. It was the first time the opening and closing of the event happened at the same place. Albom said they are going to try and make the train station a permanent part of the event. 'You can kind of feel being in here (Michigan Central Station) that it's (EAT Detroit) grown, and this would have been inappropriate in its first year. We weren't big enough to do it here, and we weren't organized enough to do it here.' More than 1,200 people purchased tickets to the event, which sold out within a week, Albom said, plus an additional 300 to 400 bought VIP tickets. Before heading out to restaurants, a VIP reception took place at the beautifully restored and renovated train station. VIP guests dined on appetizers from Detroit's West Village award-winning Marrow restaurant and Leña, Brush Park's Spanish-influenced eatery. Both restaurants have been named Detroit Free Press/Metro Detroit Chevy Dealers Top 10 Best New Restaurants in the past. Albom, Mayor Mike Duggan and Detroit Free Press restaurant critic Lyndsay C. Green spoke to the crowd, highlighting the event, Albom's charity, cheering on Detroit and its restaurant scene. Around Corktown and downtown Detroit, diners feasted on everything from fried catfish bites to roasted lamb shoulder, filet mignon au Poivre, fried lobster, chopped cheeseburger and Maurice salad and meatballs the size of golf balls served with marinara and whipped ricotta and pecorino cheese. Diners could also sip on various summery cocktails and mocktails. It was the first time for friends Anna Sinagoga of Berkley and Diana Gomez of Rochester. 'It's a great way to get people to come downtown and showcase the restaurants in an accessible way,' Sinagoga said. Gomez added that they check out the menus in advance and would 'try to get to as many as we can.' For the roaming feast, diners boarded shuttle buses or walked to participating restaurants, sampling offerings from preset menus of food and drink. More than two dozen restaurants participated in this year's event. This year, Julie Wallace of Eastpointe bought VIP tickets to get inside the renovated train station, which she called 'impressive.' 'Last year we did seven restaurants and are hoping to get to a few more this year,' Wallace said. The evening ended back at Michigan Central Station with a VIP reception featuring a beautiful and delightful array of desserts, including lemon tarts, cannoli, mango passionfruit tart and hand fruit pies. Providing desserts were MK Cannelle, Mad Nice, Prime + Proper, Sister Pie and Townhouse Detroit. Scott and Melissa Ringlein of Ann Arbor have attended every EAT Detroit event and make sure they view the menus in advance 'We like just being able to go to a lot of these restaurants,' Scott Ringlein said. On of the favorite restaurant stops, Ringlein said was Le Suprême, which featured filet mignon au poivre. The Ringleins said they always do VIP and make a weekend out of the event. This year, Scott Ringlein said, they took in a Detroit Tigers game, visited Pewabic Pottery and Detroit's RiverWalk. Michigan Central Station was also a highlight of the event. 'It was the first time I got to come here,' Ringlein said. 'It's beyond miraculous what they did.' EAT Detroit 2026 is already on the website, taking emails to join a waitlist for advance ticket sales. 'You never know how big something is going to get, but I knew when you mixed food and walking and nice weather. You're going to get some kind of crowd.' Contact Detroit Free Press food and restaurant writer Susan Selasky and send food and restaurant news and tips to: sselasky@ Follow @SusanMariecooks on Twitter. This article originally appeared on Detroit Free Press: Mitch Albom's EAT Detroit event draws more than a thousand diners

Review: L.A.'s most expensive restaurant is (unfortunately) worth it
Review: L.A.'s most expensive restaurant is (unfortunately) worth it

Time Out

time28-04-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Time Out

Review: L.A.'s most expensive restaurant is (unfortunately) worth it

From the whimsical yellow giraffe at the front entrance to the red number stamped on the back of the menu presented at the end of the evening, every aspect of Somni has meaning, intent and purpose. The outdoor sculpture, according to chef-owner Aitor Zabala, nods to the animal's meaning in some cultures as a symbol of good fortune, elegance and tranquillity. The little red digits correspond to the thousands of diners the newly revived tasting menu restaurant (back after a four-year hiatus) has served since its buzzy debut in West Hollywood last November. Before you even take a single bite or sip, there's the breathtaking hidden courtyard, where dreamy white cloud sculptures suspended from the trees overhead sway in the breeze. (The feeling is no coincidence—Somni means 'dream' in the chef's native Catalan.) By the time you nibble on a delicate cheese feather and crunch into a fried almond painstakingly reconstructed to resemble the original in its shell, you can almost forget the fact it costs at least $840 per person, with a minimum party size of two, to be there. Six months after reopening, Somni is undisputedly L.A.'s most dazzling, destination-worthy fine dining experience. Playful, elegant and downright delicious, the Spanish-influenced meal is full of avant-garde delights and insider nods to now-closed Michelin giants like Spain's famous El Bullí—where Zabala worked for many years—and Manresa up north in Los Gatos. It's a strong, promising start for the Catalan-born chef, who helped launch the original Somni alongside celebrity chef José Andrés as a 10-seat tasting counter inside the SLS Beverly Hills back in 2018. It's also, as of writing, the most expensive restaurant in Los Angeles. And while I do think the impeccable artisanry at every level justifies the steep cost of admission, I don't consider it an essential L.A. dining experience. Let me explain. Starting at $645 per person, a meal at the new Somni is nearly twice the price of several of L.A.'s top tasting menus. Technically, the tasting menu 'only' costs $495, but as of February, the restaurant began requiring diners to opt in for, at minimum, the $150 non-alcoholic pairing. If you opt into the standard wine pairing ($225), you're looking at $940 after tax and a well-deserved 20 percent tip for the lovely staff. After visiting and revisiting Somni, and reflecting on my other fine dining experiences in L.A., I can honestly say that while a meal at Somni comes nigh on close to perfection, the average diner is likely to leave Kato, Hayato, n/naka and Providence—the ultra-expensive options on my guide to the city's 'best' restaurants —just as satisfied with the added bonus of keeping another $200 to $300 in their metaphorical pocket. The irony of writing about the most expensive restaurant in L.A. isn't lost on me at a time when food costs have gotten so high that influencers gush over their Costco grocery hauls and many of the nation's leading economists predict that a global recession will occur within the next year. Bluntly put, no matter how great Somni is, the price point is unfathomable for the average Angeleno, even for the most special of occasions, and it goes above and beyond what you need for a fancy showstopper of a meal. The restaurant seems to exist primarily for the extremely rich—or, more realistically, their offspring—or the extremely food-obsessed, which includes plenty of people who work in the restaurant and bar industry. To arrive at this conclusion, I've visited almost every Michelin-starred tasting menu in L.A. at least once, most of them at least twice. And while I don't have a gourmet-inclined one-percenter's breadth of knowledge when it comes to the world's greatest restaurants, I do know, at least compared to all those ultra-expensive local meals, that Somni goes the extra mile in every possible category. There's nothing else like it in Los Angeles, but that doesn't mean that the mind-bogging level of detail and thoughtful service will justify the additional hundreds of dollars invested for everyone. I never tried the original Somni, which closed its doors in 2020 amid a bitter lawsuit between the hotel and Andrés's hospitality group, but L.A. Times critic Bill Addison's past review reveals a somewhat theatrical chef's counter experience similar to the one you'll visit today. At the new Somni, the counter now holds 14 seats, each with a pendant light that illuminates the area where each dish sits before you. As with all chef's counters, the meal is far from intimate—if you're in a party of two, you'll sit next to your dining partner, but you'll also be sitting next to whoever else has booked a reservation that evening. For a romantic dinner, I prefer Providence, n/naka and Kato, all of which have separate tables. Some might argue that trying to pit Somni against a dazzling kaiseki meal at n/naka or Kato's Taiwanese-influenced fine dining is like comparing apples to oranges. This is technically true for two reasons: Somni is nearly twice as expensive as any other L.A. fine dining options, and each restaurant offers a vastly different experience. But then again, I'm certain that for most people, a splurge of this expense and caliber maybe happens once or twice a year, if it can even happen at all. Once you leave the courtyard (where a handful of snacky amuse-bouche are served), every course starts with a monologue from one of the chefs, with most dishes accompanied by a second staff member adding a finishing sauce or other accoutrement. While most tasting menus in L.A. include this kind of culinary storytelling to some degree, Somni takes the cake when it comes to choreography of movement and baseline informational depth. If you're not used to hearing a story with every course, the experience can feel a little drawn out. For someone like me, who enjoys learning about the provenance of ingredients and attempting to grasp the finer details of terroir, this might be a bonus. For others, this might feel like overkill. It also means a dinner here will take at least three hours, if not four. A few courses at Somni have changed on a seasonal basis, but much of the menu thus far has largely stayed the same; Zabala and his team are always tweaking little details to further refine each dish. Between my two visits in January and April, about 25 percent of the menu changed entirely. The remaining dishes have only become even better on my second visit. There are nods to Spain in the form of jamón ibérico and more recently, a choice piece of secreto, a lesser-known Spanish cut of pork shoulder. Zabala seems to enjoy serving things that crunch: softly, loudly, bite by bite or all at once. Savory meringue makes an appearance in the form of a fish-shaped vehicle for Chinese caviar; far-too-ubiquitous truffle is reimagined as a cream-filled, mushroom-shaped cracker sandwich topped with Spanish black truffle rounds; and I'll never forget the beef tartare course, which uses a tempura-fried shiso leaf as a vessel for strip loin tartare showered with vibrant purple flowers. It's a gorgeous dish that tastes as wonderful as it looks. If you count each of the amuse-bouche served in the courtyard, a meal at Somni usually consists of over 20 courses—an intimidating number, especially for those with lighter appetites. On my first visit, I had to start leaving food on my plate about two-thirds into the meal; I'd devoured the hefty piece of blue corn masa sourdough that accompanied a creamy Dungeness crab dish topped with a huitlacoche (corn fungus) 'ravioli,' and got way too full in the process. The striking purple bread comes from 61hundred Bread, a Santa Ana bakery considered one of the best sourdough operations in Southern California. On my second visit, the kitchen had tweaked the amount of bread such that I managed to get through all of the savory dishes and finish most of the dessert. The delightful purple sourdough isn't the only carb-heavy course at Somni; there's also an oxtail bao bun served with a spicy curry sauce and a smear of black garlic. For some of the dishes, the staff also explain the origin stories behind some of the beautiful plating and utensils; the penultimate savory meat course is served with steak knives made by Barcelona's Florentine Kitchen Knives, which custom made the set just for Somni. By the time the cheese course—which comes with an adorable cow-shaped cracker—rolled around, I looked around the room during both of my meals and found that more than a few of the other guests had left bites of food on their plates. Clearly, I'm not the only person who finds over 20 courses to be slightly overindulgent. Then again, given the price of visiting Somni, I'm sure you'd rather leave the restaurant a little stuffed than slightly peckish. It's happened to me before at other tasting menus, so I appreciate the restaurant's attempt to pack in as many individual flavors, tastes and textures as possible. Where Somni falters, oh so slightly, is in the sweets department. Dessert currently consists of a dish inspired by the flavors of piña colada and an array of 'sweet little things,' or mignardises. I loved the former, which captures the tropical flavors of the classic frozen cocktail in an elegant, cloud-like creation. The latter, however, consists of several visually impressive sweets, some of which didn't taste as good as they looked. Your eyes will likely be drawn to the sprinkle-topped chocolate 'doughnut,' inspired from Southern California's classic pink box shops. Take one bite into it, however, and the slightly wet chocolate shell (most of the sweets aren't stable at room temperature) collapses into a creamy, liquid center with an indistinct flavor. Other mignardises, like a caviar-topped 'croissant' and seasonal berry-shaped fruit jellies, served alongside their dehydrated originals, are more successful. For all the use of local produce and nods to regional foodways, I'm still struck by how estranged Somni seems from the rest of the L.A. food scene. It almost feels like you could be at a fancy tasting counter in any other cosmopolitan world city, dining on truffles and caviar flown in from across the globe. The restaurant's feats of molecular gastronomy are truly impressive, but the dreamy, transportive quality of Somni also means that it feels like the restaurant could exist anywhere. It just happens to be in Los Angeles.

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