20-07-2025
Slow travel in Ireland's Hidden Heartlands can be exciting for all the family
Switching off, it's the hardest thing to do. We all lead busy lives which sometimes makes it impossible to slow down, take a breath and just be in the moment.
Technology doesn't make this any easier. We're always just one click away from instant access to news and emails, not to mention the hours we spend scrolling through social media.
Yet on a recent break to Offaly, I found myself managing to do just that as I switched off, relaxed and enjoyed a wholesome family break in Ireland's Hidden Heartlands.
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Despite being just a 90-minute drive from Dublin, Offaly is one of those counties that is sometimes overlooked by Irish tourists. And, I must admit, I am one of those tourists. Although I love exploring our little green isle, apart from one visit to the Bridge House Hotel in Tullamore over 10 years ago, I haven't ventured back to the Faithful County.
The truth is with the likes of the Boyne Valley, with historic sites like Newgrange and, of course, Ireland's only theme park and zoo in Emerald Park, and the Wild Atlantic Way with 2,600km of coast which takes you from Donegal down to Cork, Offaly can sometimes be, well, hidden! But Offaly is ripe for exploring, offering a laidback option, especially for those who love and appreciate the outdoors.
Last month I packed up my nephews and niece, aged 17 and 10 and 15, respectively, and set off for a break that ended up really testing how much they loved me — and me them!
Two of them were out of their monthly phone data allowance, you see, which I thought would send them spiralling, while the youngest, who just got his first phone, realised 20 minutes down the motorway that he forgot his altogether.
Thankfully, it's a short drive to Offaly and a game of 'Spot A Yellow Reg' kept them occupied until we hit our first stop, Birr Castle Demesne.
A stretch of the legs was just what we all needed and no better place to do it than at Birr Castle with acres of both manicured and wild gardens to explore.
Birr Castle is the home of the 7th Earl of Rosse, who still resides in the castle, and his family. At 89 years old, the Earl takes great pride in his grounds and still manages to look after his much-loved gardens, which are well discovered by many tourists as well as locals walking their dogs. Birr Castle is home to the 7th Earl of Rosse
Given the castle is the residence of the Earl, it is not generally open to the public — apart from the odd tour during the summer — but the grounds and gardens of the demesne are publicly accessible, and include a brilliant science museum, which displays many incredible artefacts, the lovely Courtyard Café which serves delicious open sandwiches, soups and ice creams, as well as a reflecting telescope which was the largest in the world for over six decades.
A walk in one direction of the grounds brings you along a space trail, where you will make 11 mapped-out stops, to learn all about our solar system — a real treat for two of my party who are true space lovers. There's also a great little playground on site for smaller kids as well as a gift shop.
The Birr Castle Treehouse is usually a real draw for children and you can certainly see why, with its tree decks linked by rope bridges and secret tunnels, but unfortunately it is closed until 2026 for works — a great excuse for us to return next year!
With the sun gods shining down on us the day of our visit, a trip to the Meelick Weir, which joins Offaly to Galway, was the perfect way to cool down.
The weir walkway is about 300 metres in length — a short five-minute stroll, or two if you race it like my three did! You can pick up a tea, coffee or soft drink before you head onto the walkway and enjoy a leisurely stroll cross-county with the sounds of gushing water as you pass. Pure bliss. The 4-stay County Arms in Birr, Co Offaly
When you come off the walkway you can continue on for a lovely trail walk. We were pushed for time so made our way back, stopping at the Banagher Outdoor Pool on the River Shannon for a quick dip before dinner in County Arms Birr. This is one of Ireland's most unusual, and free-to-use, pools, situated with Offaly on one side and Galway on the other.
Dinner at County Arms, a 4-star hotel, was just what we needed after an active day of sightseeing. While the hotel is all-luxury, the food on offer in Bar 62 is comfort at its finest. We tucked into nachos, pizzas, pasta and a smash burger. My niece claimed the pizza was 'the best I've ever tasted' which is high praise from a sometimes-moody 15-year-old — she's certainly never said that about any of my cooking!
Our home for the night was in Kinnitty, just 15 minutes away from Birr, staying at Giltraps Glamping. This is an excellent option for families as kids will be thrilled by the elevated camping set-up. The Teletubbies-like grounds, which are kept in immaculate condition, are stunning for a morning tea on your deck while the quaint lodges offer everything you need for a relaxing stay. Giltraps Glamping in Kinnitty
Boasting the comfiest of beds, you'll have a restful night sleep. And while wifi is offered for kids desperate for their phone fix, there are no TVs so you can still switch off. We played board games into the night before rising to a hand-delivered breakfast basket with sausage, egg and bacon baps and pastries which set us up for an epic afternoon of biking in Lough Boora Discovery Park.
When we say hidden gems, Lough Boora Discovery Park is exactly what is meant. Made up of more than 2,000 hectares of cutaway boglands, this place is weird and wonderful in equal measure, with biking and hiking trails, picnic and play areas and a fairy route, a sculpture garden and even a Thomas the Tank Engine (that's the weird!) — though I was quickly corrected by the 10-year-old that this train is, in fact, Percy not Thomas! You can enjoy lunch at Ballycommon Bakehouse which looks out onto the water at Lough Boora Discovery Park
You can wile away hours here just taking in the rugged landscape and gorgeous views before having lunch overlooking the water at Ballycommon Bakehouse on the parklands.
This is a nature lover's paradise and was the perfect way to end our midweek 'slow travel' excursion that even three kids found exciting. That's a win!
