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Malay Mail
04-07-2025
- Business
- Malay Mail
In conversation with Alan Goh, the pizzaiolo behind Round Pizza Napoletana and now Tonda, Taman Desa's newest Roman-style pizzeria
KUALA LUMPUR, July 4 — As I walk into the newly completed Tonda (so new the signboard isn't even up yet), founder Alan Goh is hunched over the counter, fiddling with a pair of switches. The long central counter is part of the open kitchen, with angled mirrors hanging overhead, designed to invite diners to watch their pizzas take shape, Goh says. Officially opening on July 5 in Taman Desa, Tonda is the 34-year-old's second pizza concept. Round Pizza Napoletana in Happy Mansion, Seksyen 17, where he made his name, has been a cult favourite since opening in late 2022. The Kuching native's pizza journey began on a work trip to London in 2019, when Goh was still working in sales for a retail company. 'Pizza wasn't something I was very focused on or clear about. I was young and just wanted to do and learn a lot of things,' he recalls. 'On that trip, I decided to take different masterclasses for fun and learned how to make tarts, butter, cheese and pizza, all in one week. 'But in just a few hours, pizza became my interest. Then it became a hobby. Then it became my life. And now I've opened up my own businesses because of it.' Initially, Goh thought it might just be a bit of fun. But all it took was one bite, and he was hooked. 'When I ate my own pizza for the first time... this was something I'd never had before in Malaysia. I thought, 'What is this? What's so different? Why is it so good?' It was something new to me, so I dedicated myself to coming back and trying to learn to recreate it in Malaysia.' Angled mirrors are part of the restaurant's open concept, allowing diners to watch their pizzas being made. — Picture by Choo Choy May A few months after returning to KL, the pandemic hit. Goh responded by throwing himself into his newfound passion with abandon. 'I started making pizza every day, and I didn't stop. To me, it's all about practice. The more you do it, the more you understand,' he explains, his words now speeding up, his gaze sharpening. 'I tried to get really deep into it, understanding the flour and everything. I'm very serious about it. That's how I learn things.' 'Until one day, I realised, I don't have enough money to keep doing this,' Goh continues. 'So I decided to make it and sell it at cost. I put it all over social media and asked friends in the building where I live to come and try. I knew I was not going to make money. It wasn't a business. Just practice.' Goh spent close to two years doing this, getting feedback from friends and regulars, tweaking and fine-tuning along the way. He was ready for the next step. 'I had already bought a lot of equipment, and it was in my home. The decision was pretty fast. I don't know, maybe I have entrepreneurial blood in me. I decided to buy a truck,' he adds. 'Once you put your money in, there's no U-turn. You just have to go all the way.' In March 2022, Goh launched Uno's Pizzeria, his first foray into the pizza business, slinging Neapolitan pizza with soft, airy dough out of a truck in Taman Megah. On choosing where to be based, Goh says it was a deliberate decision not to set up in a busier part of town. 'I have my own way of serving food. I didn't want to choose a high-traffic area, because I wanted to create a more intimate feeling with people who came to me.' Goh threw himself into learning how to make pizza during the pandemic. — Picture by Choo Choy May Any food truck has its challenges, but pizza presents its own set of obstacles. Pizza dough, especially the classic Neapolitan style used by Goh, is incredibly sensitive to changes in temperature. 'Malaysia is very humid and hot, and the fluctuation in temperature in the truck can affect the quality of the dough.' But Goh wasn't fazed. He was already looking to the next step. 'I knew it was only temporary. I wanted my own brick-and-mortar spot,' he asserts. 'It was very clear to me that it was just a matter of time.' Just three months into running Uno's, Goh began laying plans for a permanent restaurant and securing a business partner. Round Pizza Napoletana opened in December 2022 in Happy Mansion, Seksyen 17, serving a contemporary version of Neapolitan pizza. 'Uno's was more classic... classic Neapolitan-style is very good, but at the time I didn't see anyone doing a contemporary version,' he remarks. 'No one was really able to focus on it. I think I'm the one who started it. It's a lot more difficult. It's higher hydration, difficult to control by hand, and you need to really, really control the temperature. It definitely can't be done in a food truck.' In just under three years, Round established itself as a force in KL's pizza scene, one of the early pioneers of the Neapolitan wave that swept the city. These days, nearly every 'artisanal' pizza place offers something Neapolitan or at least Neapolitan-adjacent. After starting from home, Goh opened Uno's, a pizza truck, before finding success with Round Pizza Napoletana. — Picture by Choo Choy May But even as Goh tried to balance evolving Malaysian tastes with something more approachable, the age-old adage still applies: you can't please everyone. 'It's not easy. I think it's a matter of time and dedication to finding a concept that allows people to understand it better,' he explains. 'It's getting better. Everyone's starting to understand the specific type of pizza that they like, and where they like to go, now that there are more and more pizza places. I'm so grateful for that, because it's a great way for people to understand.' Not everyone is a fan of the puffy, airy style of dough at Round, however, and no one is more aware of that than Goh. 'A lot of guests go to Round and say, 'I don't like this, it's airy, puffy, bready, feels more like bread than topping! I prefer it thin and crunchy.' That gave me a lot of inspiration,' he says. 'Actually, what they want is Roman-style pizza. It's thin and crunchy. You don't like the dough at Round? That's fine. We have Tonda for you.' The name is derived from the Italian word for 'round', but it's also a nod to the thin, crispy, circular Roman pizzas served here. This sets it apart from the other popular Roman-style pizza, pizza al taglio, which comes in large rectangular slabs and is sold by the slice. 'I love al taglio, but I have to understand the market in Malaysia. I still do it for myself to eat, but if you want me to make a business out of it, it will be too difficult,' Goh elaborates. 'It's a different story in Italy. People eat that every day. They can do it, because al taglio is best if kept fresh. The shelf life is very short.' The Margherita is the benchmark for any pizza, according to Goh. — Picture by Choo Choy May The space is starkly different from Round, swapping warm wooden accents for white tiles, marble and stainless steel. Also, unlike Round, instead of a wood-fired oven, Goh opted for an electric oven, citing its ability to hold a temperature point with extreme precision for longer periods as ideal for Roman pizza. But there are some similar offerings. 'The Margherita is the benchmark for any pizza. Doesn't matter if it's Neapolitan or Roman, if the Margherita is good, you get an understanding of everything else.' Earlier, I watched Goh make one. His fingers pull and press, stretching the dough deftly, shaping it into a thin disc with nonchalant ease. Tomato sauce, fior di latte (cow's milk mozzarella), rips of basil and parmesan cheese, and loads of olive oil are layered on. The pizza is done in mere minutes, charred and crisp, coloured green, white and red, just like the Italian flag. Not content to stick with the classics, Goh includes a tribute to Rome with the Pepe, so named for the classic Roman pasta cacio e pepe. 'The idea comes from cacio e pepe, which is a really simple dish just using good cheese and black pepper. It's all about skill and method,' he beams. 'When you eat pasta and there's sauce left over, you dip it with bread, right? That's the inspiration.' The custom of scarpetta, the act of dipping bread into pasta sauce, provides the inspiration for this pizza. A spin on classic Roman 'cacio e pepe', the Pepe gets whipped 'ricotta' piped on top after coming out of the oven. — Picture by Choo Choy May Goh layers it with provola, basil, olive oil and a Sarawak black pepper-infused oil (a hometown shoutout, he says). When the pizza comes out of the oven, dollops of whipped ricotta are piped on top, followed by a generous snowfall of pecorino romano, the traditional cheese used in cacio e pepe. What else might one expect to see on the pizzas here in the future? 'Something I've been wanting to feature is a famous local ingredient: belacan,' Goh chuckles. 'It's still in the R&D stage, and it'll be tough. I don't know, maybe!' For now, Goh is focused on making sure everything runs smoothly. Tonda already has two outposts: one in Kiara Bay and the other inside Bambino KL, a bar in Bukit Damansara. But this is the flagship location, and he wants the customer experience to be just right. 'They come here not just to eat pizza. It's not just a food; it's something that brings people together,' he explains. 'I always want to create a friendly, welcoming hospitality experience where people can talk to each other, come to my counter and talk to me, and understand how we make pizza. That's why I wanted to create this open concept. 'I don't look for success. I mean, I love success, but I like achievement more,' Goh muses. 'It feels great to achieve something. There's no finish line to being successful, because I'm always evolving. But now, I've achieved something I like. There will be something more. It never ends.' And long may it continue. 'I love pizza. It's my passion. Passion keeps me going, and I want it... I'm so eager to make it happen,' Goh declares, with fervour and zeal written all over his face. 'I just want to serve it. The vision is there. The rest does not matter. Hard. Tired. Stressful. Anxiety. None of that matters. I still like to make pizza every day.' Tonda (officially open July 5) 28, Jalan 2/109E, Taman Desa Business Park, Kuala Lumpur. Open daily, 12-10pm. Open till 12am on Friday and Saturday. Closed on Tuesday. Tel: 013-218 2800 Website: Instagram: @tondapizzaromana * Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems. * Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.

Malay Mail
03-07-2025
- Malay Mail
Two held for pointing fake pistol after Toyota Yaris sideswipes Honda City in Taman Desa
KUALA LUMPUR, July 3 — Two men aged 19 and 27 have been arrested for allegedly brandishing a fake pistol at another driver following a traffic accident in Taman Desa here on Tuesday. Brickfields police chief ACP Ku Mashariman Ku Mahmood said the 28-year-old victim lodged a report at 12.55am, shortly after the incident. According to the report, the victim's black Honda City was sideswiped by a red Toyota Yaris at around 11pm, leading to a heated argument between both parties. 'During the altercation, the driver of the Toyota Yaris allegedly pulled out a black pistol and pointed it at the complainant,' he said in a statement yesterday. Preliminary investigations revealed that the weapon was a replica pistol purchased via the TikTok app by one of the suspects. Both suspects have been remanded for four days until July 5 to assist in investigations under Section 506 of the Penal Code for intimidation and Section 36(1) of the Arms Act 1960 for imitation weapons offences. — Bernama


Free Malaysia Today
02-07-2025
- Free Malaysia Today
Duo arrested after man whips out fake gun in traffic dispute
Screenshots showing the two men (right) confronting the complainant, and one of them waving an imitation gun at him. PETALING JAYA : Police have arrested two men after one of them brandished a fake gun at a driver in a road rage incident at Taman Desa, Kuala Lumpur, late last night. Brickfields police chief Ku Mashariman Ku Mahmood said a 28-year-old man had filed a report saying a car had hit the right side mirror of his vehicle at about 11pm. The complainant said he and two men in the other car got into an argument when one of them brandished a pistol and aimed it at him. 'After he lodged the report, police managed to arrest two men aged 19 and 27 to assist in the investigation. It was found that the gun was a fake bought by one of the suspects through TikTok,' he said in a statement. The two suspects have been remanded until July 5. The case is being investigated under Section 506 of the Penal Code for criminal intimidation, and Section 36(1) of the Arms Act 1960 for possession of an imitation firearm.
Yahoo
14-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Roman style pizza and crispy ‘pan focaccia'... by way of a tasting menu at Pizza Day in Taman Desa, KL
KUALA LUMPUR, June 14 — Some believe that what makes a pizza sing is its toppings. Me, I am savouring a slice topped with marinated Italian mushrooms, tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella cheese – nice but nothing earth-shattering, you say. Ah, but what makes this an uncommon slice isn't its toppings but its shape: it's square (a rectangle, if I'm being precise) and unbelievably crispy. So crispy – not brittle, but light and confident in its crunch – that the Italians even have a word for it: scrocchiarella. It's a key trait of Roman style pizzas. Imported premium Italian ingredients form part of the restaurant's décor. Which makes it extra wonderful is that I am not in the Italian capital but enjoying this in KL, specifically the green enclave of Taman Desa. Truth be told, I haven't seen a rectangular pizza slice since my days of backpacking in Italy. It was in Rome, together with two Americans (both from Chicago and both called Mike; and yes, we could tell them apart) and my closest Italian friend Manuel. It helps, of course, having a local explaining why the pizza slice was square – it was the Roman style, called pizza al taglio (literally 'pizza by the cut' in Italian), sold by the slice thus easy for customers to take away and eat on the go. Amuse-bouche' (left). Roman-style pizza is typically served in square or rectangular slices (right). Years passed and it's still the more recognisable Neapolitan style of pizzas (i.e. the triangular slices) that continue to reign worldwide. So consider me thrilled for a chance to taste and perhaps relive a part of my misspent youth. The place in question is Pizza Day, opened by Antonio 'Tony' Delachi just a few months ago in a quiet corner of Taman Desa. Focaccia Provola & Cotto Ham. The Italian restaurateur also owns Heritage Pizza in The Row KL, so we have high expectations of ingredients used. True to form, Pizza Day's kitchen is stocked with premium Italian-sourced goods: organic wheat flour; soft and milky fior di latte, a fresh mozzarella cheese made from cow's milk; and sauce made from imported tomatoes. Even the dough undergoes 48 hours of fermentation before it's ready to be shaped and baked. What stands out is that, in addition to the typical á la carte fare, diners can also choose to enjoy the restaurant's Degustazione menu – basically a multi-course chef's selection not unlike a Japanese omakase, albeit with Roman pizzas. Pizza Fior di Latte, Potato & Pancetta. We begin, not with the full-sized pizzas, but a couple of amuse-bouches: Two slender, crisp wafers topped with a velvety layer of stracchino cheese. One is paired with 24-month aged Parma ham, mellow and nutty; the other drizzled with lavender honey. Tiny bites that offer an elegant juxtaposition between savoury and floral-sweet. A dainty prelude to alternating courses of pizzas and pan focaccia (focaccia bread) to come. The first course, if you will, was the aforementioned Pizza Funghi. The mushrooms, marinated until tender, are balanced by a light tang of tomato and the mild creaminess of fior di latte. Focaccia Burrata Nduja & Rocket. Then our first pan focaccia arrives. The Focaccia Provola & Cotto Ham is served as triangular sandwiches, with ribbons of Italian cooked ham (prosciutto cotto) atop a layer of smoky provola, a type of aged curd-cheese. This is followed by our second pizza – Fior Di Latte, Potato & Pancetta – which is all about textures and contrasts: Paper-thin slices of imported potato contribute a buttery crunch; the smoked pancetta, an assertive hit of salt; and it's all pulled together by the mozzarella again with its light touch. Our next pan focaccia is the Burrata, 'Nduja & Rocket; an item that isn't on the á la carte menu. This is part of the appeal of a chef's selection, after all; little surprises like this – rich burrata cheese; fiery 'nduja, a spreadable fermented pork sausage from Calabria; and a much-needed peppery lift from the rocket leaves. Pizza Margherita. Finally a bona fide classic although with a twist: our Pizza Margherita has the traditional smear of tomato sauce, but instead of circles of mozzarella and whole basil leaves, these are cut into rectangular strips, perhaps to accentuate the pizza's Roman shape, as it were. Time for sweet endings and our desserts. There are three options on offer today – the Degustazione menu isn't fixed so items are rotated – Homemade Tiramisu, Calamansi Sorbet and Bacio Mini Ice Cream. A trio of desserts. As there are exactly three of us at our table, we had one of each and shared. We almost didn't need the desserts, to be honest, as we were quite stuffed by that stage. A tasting menu of pizzas and pan focaccia is a fine idea but make sure you come with a very empty stomach! Pizza Day 53G, Jalan 1/109E, Taman Desa Business Park, KL Open Fri-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10pm; Mon-Thu closed Pop-up at Heritage Pizza KL (Lot 26 - G, Jalan Doraisamy): Mon-Fri 12:15pm-3pm Phone: 013-329 1918 IG: • This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. • Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.


Malay Mail
14-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Malay Mail
Roman style pizza and crispy ‘pan focaccia'... by way of a tasting menu at Pizza Day in Taman Desa, KL
KUALA LUMPUR, June 14 — Some believe that what makes a pizza sing is its toppings. Me, I am savouring a slice topped with marinated Italian mushrooms, tomato sauce and fresh mozzarella cheese – nice but nothing earth-shattering, you say. Ah, but what makes this an uncommon slice isn't its toppings but its shape: it's square (a rectangle, if I'm being precise) and unbelievably crispy. So crispy – not brittle, but light and confident in its crunch – that the Italians even have a word for it: scrocchiarella. It's a key trait of Roman style pizzas. Imported premium Italian ingredients form part of the restaurant's décor. Which makes it extra wonderful is that I am not in the Italian capital but enjoying this in KL, specifically the green enclave of Taman Desa. Truth be told, I haven't seen a rectangular pizza slice since my days of backpacking in Italy. It was in Rome, together with two Americans (both from Chicago and both called Mike; and yes, we could tell them apart) and my closest Italian friend Manuel. It helps, of course, having a local explaining why the pizza slice was square – it was the Roman style, called pizza al taglio (literally 'pizza by the cut' in Italian), sold by the slice thus easy for customers to take away and eat on the go. Amuse-bouche' (left). Roman-style pizza is typically served in square or rectangular slices (right). Years passed and it's still the more recognisable Neapolitan style of pizzas (i.e. the triangular slices) that continue to reign worldwide. So consider me thrilled for a chance to taste and perhaps relive a part of my misspent youth. The place in question is Pizza Day, opened by Antonio 'Tony' Delachi just a few months ago in a quiet corner of Taman Desa. Focaccia Provola & Cotto Ham. The Italian restaurateur also owns Heritage Pizza in The Row KL, so we have high expectations of ingredients used. True to form, Pizza Day's kitchen is stocked with premium Italian-sourced goods: organic wheat flour; soft and milky fior di latte, a fresh mozzarella cheese made from cow's milk; and sauce made from imported tomatoes. Even the dough undergoes 48 hours of fermentation before it's ready to be shaped and baked. What stands out is that, in addition to the typical á la carte fare, diners can also choose to enjoy the restaurant's Degustazione menu – basically a multi-course chef's selection not unlike a Japanese omakase, albeit with Roman pizzas. Pizza Fior di Latte, Potato & Pancetta. We begin, not with the full-sized pizzas, but a couple of amuse-bouches: Two slender, crisp wafers topped with a velvety layer of stracchino cheese. One is paired with 24-month aged Parma ham, mellow and nutty; the other drizzled with lavender honey. Tiny bites that offer an elegant juxtaposition between savoury and floral-sweet. A dainty prelude to alternating courses of pizzas and pan focaccia (focaccia bread) to come. The first course, if you will, was the aforementioned Pizza Funghi. The mushrooms, marinated until tender, are balanced by a light tang of tomato and the mild creaminess of fior di latte. Focaccia Burrata Nduja & Rocket. Then our first pan focaccia arrives. The Focaccia Provola & Cotto Ham is served as triangular sandwiches, with ribbons of Italian cooked ham (prosciutto cotto) atop a layer of smoky provola, a type of aged curd-cheese. This is followed by our second pizza – Fior Di Latte, Potato & Pancetta – which is all about textures and contrasts: Paper-thin slices of imported potato contribute a buttery crunch; the smoked pancetta, an assertive hit of salt; and it's all pulled together by the mozzarella again with its light touch. Our next pan focaccia is the Burrata, 'Nduja & Rocket; an item that isn't on the á la carte menu. This is part of the appeal of a chef's selection, after all; little surprises like this – rich burrata cheese; fiery 'nduja, a spreadable fermented pork sausage from Calabria; and a much-needed peppery lift from the rocket leaves. Pizza Margherita. Finally a bona fide classic although with a twist: our Pizza Margherita has the traditional smear of tomato sauce, but instead of circles of mozzarella and whole basil leaves, these are cut into rectangular strips, perhaps to accentuate the pizza's Roman shape, as it were. Time for sweet endings and our desserts. There are three options on offer today – the Degustazione menu isn't fixed so items are rotated – Homemade Tiramisu, Calamansi Sorbet and Bacio Mini Ice Cream. A trio of desserts. As there are exactly three of us at our table, we had one of each and shared. We almost didn't need the desserts, to be honest, as we were quite stuffed by that stage. A tasting menu of pizzas and pan focaccia is a fine idea but make sure you come with a very empty stomach! Pizza Day 53G, Jalan 1/109E, Taman Desa Business Park, KL Open Fri-Sun 11:30am-2:30pm and 5:30pm-10pm; Mon-Thu closed Pop-up at Heritage Pizza KL (Lot 26 - G, Jalan Doraisamy): Mon-Fri 12:15pm-3pm Phone: 013-329 1918 IG: • This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal. • Follow us on Instagram @eatdrinkmm for more food gems.