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The Independent
04-07-2025
- The Independent
Ultimate family weekends – from outdoorsy getaways to fun-packed city breaks, the best British trips
Looking for inspiration for a family getaway this summer? You don't have to head to the airport for an adventure. From rural adventures and buzzy city breaks to coastal getaways and glamping, there are so many options for a great British weekend away, all handily on our doorstep. Travelling by train makes it even more fun for the whole family, and with a Railcard (there are nine to choose from including the Family & Friends Railcard) users can save up to a third off most rail travel around Britain, it pays for itself in no time. With such great discounts as well as great offers like 2FOR1 and a third off selected attractions when you travel by train with National Rail's Days Out Guide – you can squeeze in even more enjoyment for less this summer. Find the one that's right for you at Enjoy the coast with the most in Cornwall Beautiful beaches, buzzy seaside towns and world-class attractions make Cornwall a classic family destination – and there's no better way to arrive than by train. Head to St Ives and you can enjoy one of the most scenic stretches of coastline in the country en route. The town has plenty to keep you busy, from outdoor adventures like seal spotting and a picturesque working harbour to cultural attractions like Tate St Ives and the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Gallery. Another great weekend destination is St Austell, where you'll be a short bus ride from both the lush environs of The Eden Project and The Lost Gardens of Heligan, beautiful romantic gardens that were rediscovered 33 years ago and have been lovingly restored since. Nearest stations: St Ives, St Austell – both a few minutes walk from the town centre Go fully rural on a farm break Kids will love getting to stay on a working farm where they can get off their screens and get involved with activities like feeding lambs, watching cows being milked and even walking alpacas. Featherdown Farms offer a variety of farm stays throughout Britain that offer the perfect off-grid family break – many of which are accessible by train. There's East Shilvinghampton Farm on Dorset's stunning Jurassic Coast (close to Weymouth, Upwey and Dorchester stations), Moor Farm in the beautiful Cotswold countryside (five miles from Gloucester station) or College Farm in Norfolk (ten minutes from Beccles station). Nearest stations: Various – see above Step back in time in historic York Not only is York a beautiful city, packed with historic buildings, green spaces and atmospheric streets, it's also extremely walkable, making it easy to take in the attractions – of which there are many. Walking the mediaeval city walls is a must, as is climbing York Minster and strolling narrow cobbled lane The Shambles – believed to be the inspiration for Diagon Alley in Harry Potter. Children and adults alike will love the huge collection of locomotives at The National Rail Museum and the immersive experience of the Jorvik Viking Centre. Take a spooky walk through 2000 years of history at the York Dungeon, where you can get a third off entry with your train ticket (pre booking essential). When you travel by train you can also take advantage of National Rail 2FOR1 offers at York's Chocolate Story, York Army Museum and on City Cruises down the River Ouse. Nearest station: York, about a 10 minute walk to city centre Explore the stunning Pembrokeshire Coast Use the picture perfect town of Tenby, with its colourful houses, sandy beaches and quaint harbour, as a base to explore this stunning stretch of coastline. Board a boat to Caldey Island, hit the Pembrokeshire Coastal Path for breathtaking views or simply enjoy one of the town's three beaches. Just a couple of miles from the town centre are The Dinosaur Park and Manor House Wildlife Park. If you're feeling brave, go on a guided ghost walk unveiling haunting secrets and local mysteries, and be sure to make a trip to Fecci's, which has been serving up delicious fish and chips since 1935. Nearest station: Tenby, about a five minute walk from town centre Go glamping With everything already set up and no camping gear to lug with you, it's easy to arrive by train for a weekend of glamping — and there are plenty of options within easy reach of train stations. In the Yorkshire Dales, Ribblesdale Pods are walkable from the station (Horton in Ribblesdale) and have large family friendly options, as well as dog-friendly pods and ones with hot tubs. Adhurst Yurts in Hampshire are a ten minute taxi ride from Petersfield Station and offer extras like guided nature walks and the option to learn skills like bushcraft, fly fishing and basketry. The eco-friendly cabins at Little Menherion in Cornwall feel like they're in the middle of nowhere – but are just three miles from Redruth station. If you want to keep the kids happy then North Hill Farm with its quirky selection of glamping options is a 15 minute taxi journey from Watford Junction – where you can also catch a shuttle bus to the Harry Potter Studios. Nearest station: Various – see above Enjoy a kid-friendly culture trip in Liverpool Packed with museums, galleries, iconic buildings and a buzzy waterfront, Liverpool has plenty to entertain visitors of all ages. Kids will love the dinosaurs in the World Museum, and the interactive Museum of Liverpool. Hop on a ferry across the Mersey and you'll find Eureka! Science + Discovery, aimed at igniting kids' interest in science and technology. Music lovers will enjoy the British Music Experience, a huge museum dedicated to the history of UK pop music. And if you're into the Fab Four, you can also take advantage of 2FOR1 entry to The Beatles Story Museum when you travel by train. If this doesn't hit the right note for you, there are lots more Liverpool offers for you to enjoy on Days Out Guide. Football more your bag? There's 2FOR1 tickets available for rail travellers when you take a tour of Anfield, too. Nearest stations: Liverpool Lime Street or Liverpool Central, both in the city centre Hang out with wildlife in the New Forest Step off the train in the New Forest and before long you're likely to find yourself up close with wild ponies, who roam the streets, moorland and woodland there freely (as do wild pigs). The national park is full of walking and cycle trails, so it's easy to explore the beautiful scenery by foot or hire bikes to reach attractions like the Bolderwood Deer Sanctuary. With eight stations in the New Forest you can also hop around easily by train. Brockenhurst is a good entry point, but from there you can explore destinations like the pretty village of Sway, or Ashurst, where you'll find the New Forest Wildlife Park. You can also easily reach the coastal town of Lymington. Nearest station: Brockenhurst, in the centre of Brockenhurst village Stay in a castle Warwick Castle – located just a 15 minute walk from Warwick station – is one of the country's best family-friendly attractions. But did you know you can also stay there, too? It offers various accommodation options, including a hotel, lodges, mediaeval themed glamping and exclusive suites in the 14th century castle tower. During the day there loads going on to keep everyone entertained, including jousting experiences, the UK's biggest bird of prey display and live shows in the castle dungeon. Even if you don't opt to stay on-site, day visitors who travel by train can get a third off entry. Nearest station: Warwick, about a 15 minute walk from Warwick Castle Have a family-perfect city break in Edinburgh From taking in historic attractions like the Royal Mile, Edinburgh Castle and Grassmarket to enjoying outdoor adventures like climbing Arthur's Seat and exploring Holyrood Park, the Scottish capital has so much to offer visitors. You could lose a day alone in Camera Obscura and World of Illusions, a five-floor attraction with over 100 interactive exhibits. Other family friendly attractions include Edinburgh Zoo, the Edinburgh Dungeon (where train travellers can enjoy a third off entry alongside their discounted rail fare when they travel by train with a Railcard and prebook through and, of course, a Harry Potter walking tour. Another great thing about a city break in Edinburgh? It's only 10 minutes on a train from the city centre to Portobello Beach – so you can enjoy the best of both worlds. Nearest station: Edinburgh Waverley in the city centre Enjoy some old-school seaside fun in Blackpool Blackpool's popularity as a holiday resort soared when the town's railway station opened in the 1840s – and to this day it remains a fabulous seaside destination to discover by rail, with a perfect blend of old school charm and modern attractions. The seven mile stretch of beach has three Victorian piers, with the Central Pier home to the town's famous Big Wheel. Blackpool Pleasure Beach has roller coasters and rides to suit both big thrillseekers and little adventurers. The Blackpool Tower is an iconic British landmark (and home to the equally iconic Blackpool Tower Ballroom) and rail travellers can get a third off tickets to climb it when they prebook. There's a third off other attractions too, including SEA LIFE Blackpool, Madame Tussauds Blackpool and The Blackpool Tower Circus. Nearest station: Blackpool North Station, about a 10 minute walk to main attractions Enjoy great value British adventures by train From stunning nature and the Great Outdoors, to culture, cuisine and incredible scenery, there's no doubt Britain has it all in spades, and these unmissable adventures are just a simple, enjoyable train ride away. So there's never been a better time to start planning some Great British getaways, from day trips to weekends away or a longer staycation. With Railcard, whether you're travelling solo or with a friend, on a couples weekend or off on holiday with the family, you can save on all sorts of train journeys around Great Britain. Railcard helps you save a third off rail travel and for just £35 for the year, it pays for itself in no time. With 9 different Railcards available, find the one for you at What's more, you can enjoy 2FOR1 and other offers with National Rail's Days Out Guide when you travel by train. So make this your year to get out, experience and explore everything on your doorstep and enjoy truly great value getaways.
Telegraph
18-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Telegraph
‘Man Ray was very intense... I wasn't shy and I was pretty and that helped'
The American artist Liliane Lijn works in an old textile warehouse in north London, a low brick building with vast wooden doors. On a cold spring morning, she opens them dressed in silvery green, yellow and azure blue, as if she had recently escaped from a Matisse painting. Lijn, who has lived in Britain for nearly 60 years, made her mark with the kinetic art movement in early 1960s Paris and the counterculture scene in Swinging London. Now 85, she remains a lively force, with intense eyes and a brisk confidence. 'Let me turn some work on,' says Lijn, as she ushers me into her studio, where rooms unfold around a glass courtyard. She leads the way, flicking various switches, and one artwork after another slowly grinds into action, filling the space with tocks and clicks. Lijn has an exhibition at Tate St Ives this month, Arise Alive. It coincides with the publication of her memoir and the display of two pieces in Tate Modern's group show Electric Dreams. St Ives is the coup, though. Despite having a rich body of work and a successful career, it is her first major museum survey in Britain – and sorely overdue. 'Kinetic art was never taken seriously by the establishment,' Lijn tells me. 'It wasn't marketable and that was a problem. I had a period in the 1990s where there was practically no interest in my work. Of course it was depressing, but somehow I didn't really doubt what I was doing. I always felt I was on the right path.' Arise Alive is conceived jointly with Haus der Kunst in Munich and Vienna's museum of modern art, Mumok. The display has been slightly adapted for St Ives by Tate director Anne Barlow, who says she believes Lijn has been 'consistently ahead of her time. Over the past six decades, her work has had significant influence. This focus on her now feels very important.' Lijn's art is easy to like, less so to define. Typically, it takes the form of sculpture or installation, but she has also created prints, performances and a libretto. It depicts cosmological phenomena, energy, light and vibration, sometimes drawing on myths and archetypes. Words are a recurring feature, as are futuristic materials. In the 1960s that meant various plastics; today, something like aerogel, a solid that is typically 98 per cent air and is used by Nasa to collect interstellar dust. Lijn shows me some of the work she made with it during a Nasa-funded fellowship at the Space Sciences Laboratory in Berkeley, California, in 2005. 'Stardust' is hermetically sealed inside a vitrine, and breathtaking: a cluster of milky shards with blurry edges, which resembles glowing, frozen smoke. 'I broke it a lot at first,' she says. 'But they told me: everything fragments. It's important to every cosmic process, and so that became the piece.' Nearby stands a twisting female form made of sheet mica frills – Lijn's husband of 55 years, Stephen Weiss, used to own a mica factory – and some Poemdrums, nested cylinders bearing words, the layers of which rotate at different speeds. They are descendants of the Poem Machines with which Lijn enraptured Paris in the 1960s: Letraset words on a motorised drum that in motion creates a pattern, 'pregnant with energy', as Lijn describes it. Perhaps it makes sense that Lijn was drawn to make art that reflects on the forces of the cosmos. She came of age during a time of exhilarating technological and scientific advances, after all, not least the space race. Born Liliane Segall in 1939 (she changed her name to avoid any confusion with the American pop artist George Segal), she grew up in New York, the elder child of Russian Jews who had fled Nazi Germany. Her father played the violin, her grandmother sang sad Russian songs; her mother 'did everything beautifully without any mistakes'. At home, conversation centred on literature and philosophy. When she was 14, her family resettled in Switzerland. By 18, Lijn had left for Paris to study archaeology at the Sorbonne and art history at the Ecole du Louvre. She lasted six months. 'When I told my father I was quitting to be an artist, he said, 'Well, I should have known you would do that.'' Lijn devised her own programme of learning: long hours in museums, drawing classes with the painter and filmmaker Robert Lapoujade, evenings at the Blue Note jazz club. Of greatest importance, however, was an introduction to the surrealist cafés, via the painter Manina, the mother of a school friend. Here, Lijn met the artists Max Ernst, Roberto Matta and Meret Oppenheim, the poet Joyce Mansour, and the grandaddy of surrealism himself, André Breton. 'He was very formal, kiss your hand, that sort of thing,' says Lijn. 'There was still a glamour attached to the group and it felt exciting to go – I had read practically everything Breton wrote – but surrealism was disintegrating. Breton had excommunicated so many. It was kind of sad, and when they just gossiped about other people, even boring. It could also be tough for women, but the thing is that I wasn't shy and I was pretty, and that helped.' The Greek artist Takis, a former pupil of the sculptor Constantin Brâncuşi, who experimented with kinetic pieces that used magnets, was the first to take Lijn's work seriously. They married in 1961 (she taught herself Greek by reading Aristophanes with a dictionary) and had a son, Thanos, the following year. She also has a son, Mischa, and a daughter, Sheba, with Weiss. Between 1961 and 1963, Lijn and Takis lived in New York City. She shares fragments of her time there with me: meeting Franz Kline –'but abstract expressionism was over, more or less; those artists were old heroes' – and buying so much Perspex from a store in Lower Manhattan that the owner cleared his second floor for her experiments. On returning to Paris, Lijn began devouring scientific journals. 'I thought that with physics, which is about the very small, and astronomy, which is about the very large, I would somehow get an understanding of reality,' she tells me. 'I wanted to understand what reality was beyond the image of it, to be illuminated, in the Buddhist sense. That, to me, is the most important function of art.' In 1963, she held her first solo exhibition. The great photographer Man Ray visited, and was so impressed by her Poem Machines that he invited her to his studio. He was 'warm and friendly', but 'very intense'. The Beat author William S Burroughs was similarly taken, and she became a regular at the Beat Hotel. 'He wanted to make his text move off the page, and I was very excited about that. But Takis said, 'You don't want to do that', and he had a very persuasive way.' The lack of other female artists disturbed her – 'I'd go to exhibitions and look for them' – but she found a mentor in Caresse Crosby, patron to Salvador Dalí and Ernest Hemingway. Peggy Guggenheim was another champion and friend. Lijn performed at the famed collector's 61st birthday party in Venice. In 1966, Lijn moved to London, where she had been invited to exhibit at Signals, a new gallery dedicated to kinetic art. She drove all the way from Athens, but found Signals had shut, having lost its funding after the management criticised the Vietnam War. John Dunbar, the 22-year-old owner of the Indica Gallery (married at the time to the crown princess of Swinging London, Marianne Faithfull) came to the rescue. He had taken on a few Signals artists and extended the offer to Lijn. 'I met Liliane through Takis,' Dunbar tells me, 'but I chose the work I showed on the basis of impulse.' He still has 8mm footage of her 1967 exhibition, which debuted the kinetic work Liquid Reflections (1966-68). Its Perspex spheres mimic planetary forces by rolling across a hollow acrylic disc of condensed liquid. Lijn had landed on her feet: Indica was the hippest gallery in London at the time. Dunbar's co-founders were the author Barry Miles and the pop star Pete Asher (brother of Jane). Paul McCartney helped paint the walls and put up shelves, and Dunbar had recently staged Yoko Ono's first London show. Lijn recalls a dinner at which she 'chatted peace and love' with McCartney. 'He said he didn't understand why people couldn't love each other.' Exhibitions at the Hanover Gallery in 1970 and the Serpentine in 1976 kept Lijn in London. 'I was very successful here, it was a good anchor,' she says. 'And, of course, I met Stephen.' View this post on Instagram A post shared by Tate St Ives (@tatestives) In her office, with its egg-yolk-yellow floor, Lijn pulls out a box of old journals and leaves me to leaf through them. The pages are a mix of scrawled impressions, self-admonishments and fierce resolutions. 'I'm determined, that's just a character trait,' she says. She makes coffee and we sit at a table she designed herself, a circle of glass set on striped ceramic cones. Cones have appeared in her work since the mid-1960s. She calls them 'koans', after the puzzles used in Buddhist meditation, and explains that 'all energy is emitted in a conical form'. Her conversation is filled with things like this – talk of quasars and whether the universe is mathematical, and we are mathematical beings, and that is the way we understand the cosmos. I ask Lijn how this stash of prodigious scientific knowledge sits with her interest in myth and spirituality. 'Oh, quite nicely,' she replies. 'I think what many scientists think: that there are a lot of things we don't know or understand, and one of those things is consciousness. The unconscious is the wellspring, where all the most important discoveries are made, in science and art, and in poetry and music.' It is her view that eventually science will understand 'the entanglement of our mind with the universe. If we're not all blown to smithereens by some idiot, that is.' She smiles. 'I hope I have a few more years.'
Yahoo
25-04-2025
- Yahoo
The UK's beach towns are bouncing back—here are 7 of the best
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). At the turn of the century, a range of micro and macro factors, from whittled-down transport links to the availability of cheap foreign holidays, combined to lay waste to Britain's seaside towns. Precious few were to escape the ruinous effects of this retreat of the economic tide. Fast forward to 2025, however, and it's a very different picture. Just as the decline stemmed from multiple factors, the resurgence is driven by a complex web of influences. The cost-of-living crisis, flight scepticism and the lure of the great outdoors are all playing a part. So too is the staycation boom, which was accelerated by the pandemic. Sure, only the most misty-eyed nostalgist could fail to spot boarded-up shops and buildings with peeling paintwork. But around these have sprung up galleries and cutting-edge art installations, rich cultural and culinary offerings, thriving creative quarters and a renewed sense of community. With totemic, big-money attractions such as Tate St Ives and the imminent £100m Eden Project Morecambe only adding to the momentum, these once-glittering jewels of the UK tourism industry are beginning to reclaim their lustre. Here are seven gems to visit this summer. Overcoming the restrictions of seasonality is top of every coastal town's wish list. Margate, on the eastern tip of Kent, is the exemplar of this. When the weather sends visitors scurrying inland from the 656ft expanse of sand, there's a near-endless array of distractions: artistic, retro, retail or just good old-fashioned seaside fun. Culture, embodied by the Turner Contemporary, helped the town turn the corner — but it's the unshakeable sense of community that's driving the resurgence. Why go? Dreamland, a century-old amusement park and outdoor events space resuscitated in 2015, goes from strength to strength. The Libertines, Texas and Basement Jaxx are among this summer's headliners. Where to eat: Look out for open days at The Perfect Place to Grow, a training kitchen for unprivileged youngsters adjacent to Tracey Emin's TKE Studios. Angela's, in the atmospheric Old Town, is a tiny seafood restaurant and hotel, with a big reputation among locals. Where to stay: No 42 by GuestHouse, opened in the summer of 2023, has an enviable location fronting the beach and opening on to the High Street to the rear. It's a well-heeled crowd, who come for the 21 stylish rooms and the brand's signature Pearly Cow surf-and-turf restaurant. The resurgence of Cornwall's wild west hub has been incremental, rather than sweeping, with dozens of projects, revivals and openings nudging the town in the right direction over the past decade. Festivals have provided a focus. The Golowan — 10 days of parades, performances and art displays— and the revived winter Montol ('solstice' in Cornish) are stirring affairs. The foodie scene has never been stronger and there's a ready supply of visitors via the Night Riviera sleeper train from London. Improved chopper and ferry links to the Isles of Scilly also bring the perfect twin-centre holiday within reach. Why go? The spruced-up Penlee House Gallery & Museum runs workshops, film screenings and drop-in craft activities. The house is surrounded by semi-tropical gardens (that famous west Cornwall microclimate) and Cornish cream teas are served in the Orangery cafe. Where to eat: Barbican Bistro is just an unloaded catchaway from Penzance harbour. Expect moreish tapas-style seafood dishes such as scallops with chorizo, and salt and pepper squid with harissa mayo. Where to stay: Artist Residence Cornwall is the westernmost outpost of the chic-yet-homely bijou hotel group. It's set within a former Georgian inn with open brick work, heavy wooden beams and sea views from the highest of its 22 rooms. In the sprint to the better-known treasures of North Wales such as Eryri (Snowdonia) or the Llŷn Peninsula, it's easy to miss little Barmouth, reclining on the edge of the Mawddach estuary. 'For mountain, sand and sea' is how the coastal town markets itself, which says it all. The generous, west-facing strand is a sunset hotspot, and the peaks provide an arresting backdrop landwards. This is the sort of town that's full of visitors-turned-residents and it's that sense of pride and community that's powering its revival. Why go? The battle to maintain the 2,690ft-long, Grade II-listed Barmouth Viaduct is never more than temporarily won. With the latest £30m restoration recently completed, it's a good time to stroll this engineering marvel, stretching like a wooden splinter across the estuary mouth. The more energetic might enjoy the annual 10k run in June, billed as the country's most scenic, which takes in its length. Where to eat: Lobster Pot, on the Quay, is the place for dressed crab, seafood linguine, informality — and views of the hills massing across the estuary. Where to stay: The town is full of striking properties made from the local grey dolerite and slate stone — and few are more robust or striking than Aber House, strategically placed equidistant between harbour, beach and shops. The North Yorkshire town has a decent claim to be Britain's first seaside resort; health-giving springs discovered here in the early 17th century started the cascade of coastal visitors. But its fall was long and sustained, and the rebound very much a work in progress. The strategy? To woo a diverse crowd with a beyond-eclectic blend of attractions and events, from poetry recitals to punk festivals, while continuing to cater to the deckchaired masses on sun-trap South Bay Beach or Blue Flag North Bay Beach. Why go? The nostalgists will love strolling through the revamped Esplanade and Italian gardens, marvelling at the imposing silhouette of the Grand — the largest hotel in Europe when it was completed in 1867. The century-old 'OAT' (Open Air Theatre), which re-opened in 2010, now draws some of the country's biggest acts, often leaning into nostalgic revivals. A £20 million transformation of the West Pier is also on the horizon, set to breathe new life into the historic waterfront. Where to eat: The unimproveably named BellyRub is an informal, dog-friendly craft-beer bar specialising in inventive comfort food such as black pudding, chorizo and bacon fries. Where to stay: As the name suggests, Bike & Boot aims to court the outdoorsy crowd. It's lively and colourful with no-nonsense pizzas and burgers served in its hybrid Bareca bar/restaurant/cafe. It's not exactly been plain sailing for the Dorset resort since hosting the sport for the 2012 Olympics, but it's certainly got wind in its sails. The sheltered, gently shelving beach has never looked better — it's raked every day in summer and there are new drinking fountains and free showers — while the town's smart Regency townhouses and elegant parks and gardens are rightly prized. Works equally well as a stand-alone holiday destination or a pit stop for hikers tackling adjacent Chesil Beach or the South West Coast Path. Why go? The deckchairs and donkey rides reputation belies a fascinating cluster of historical attractions, led by the melancholic ruins of Henry VIII's Sandsfoot Castle and the award-winning Nothe Fort, with its newly unveiled nuclear bunker. Where to eat: The harbourside Catch at the Old Fish Market serves inventive seafood dishes with stunningly fresh ingredients. Its Michelin Guide mention draws the crowds so book way ahead. Where to stay: Standing a rather specific 'eight-second dash' from the beach, The Gresham is a listed townhouse stylishly converted into a four-star hotel with a dozen bedrooms and a fortifying breakfast. 'This resort is riding a wave of regenerative spirit' was The Sunday Times's alliterative assessment of this North Tyneside town in 2024, when it named it one of the best places to live in the UK. It's not bad to visit either, with a packed programme of events during the summer, two miles of golden shore and some of the North East's best indie-store shopping in the trendy Park View area. Why go? When that bracing wind whips in off the North Sea head for the domed Spanish City, a scaled-down version of Brighton's Royal Pavilion dating from the Edwardian era which was reopened pre-pandemic after a £10m restoration. There's award-winning fish and chips, fancy afternoon teas and top-notch restaurants. Next in the town's regen sights? The crumbling, century-old Empress Ballroom, which is set to be developed into an entertainment hub with food stalls, expansive roof terrace and live entertainment space. Where to eat: Horticulture Coastal promises a 'canny vibe and locally sourced scran'. It's the sister restaurant of the acclaimed Coastal in thrumming Newcastle – just 30 minutes away by Metro. Where to stay: York House Hotel is a boutique property with 14 rooms at the southern tip of Whitley Park and a five-minute stroll from the beach. Granted, there are coastal resorts that have suffered greater travails than this affluent East Lothian town. But it still had to endure a choppy few decades at the close of the 20th century as its 'Biarritz of the North' epithet slipped, hotels closed and local tensions around the courting of tourists grew. A healthy truce has since descended and visitors can enjoy a town that's lauded for everything from its long sandy beach to its nation-leading living standards. Why go? Fringe by the Sea, founded in 2008, has become one of Britain's most sought-after cultural extravaganzas, with 10 days of comedy, live music and culinary masterclasses. Another big draw is the Scottish Seabird Centre, which is the place to learn all about puffins and the gannets that spray-paint the famous offshore Bass Rock white with their guano. Where to eat: Berwick's foodie reputation is well deserved. Leading the charge are harbour-front Lobster Shack, serving the likes of lobster and crab rolls and smoked haddock and salmon fishcakes, and Drift, a cliff-edge medley of upcycled shipping containers with rousing Firth of Forth views and an indecently good brunch. Where to stay: From the links course unfurling outside to the imposing baronial architecture, Marine North Berwick is a quintessential Scottish coastal hotel. The landmark building dates from 1875; the lavish refit, from 2021. Published in the Coastal Collection 2025 by National Geographic Traveller (UK)To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
National Geographic
25-04-2025
- National Geographic
The UK's beach towns are bouncing back—here are 7 of the best
This article was produced by National Geographic Traveller (UK). At the turn of the century, a range of micro and macro factors, from whittled-down transport links to the availability of cheap foreign holidays, combined to lay waste to Britain's seaside towns. Precious few were to escape the ruinous effects of this retreat of the economic tide. Fast forward to 2025, however, and it's a very different picture. Just as the decline stemmed from multiple factors, the resurgence is driven by a complex web of influences. The cost-of-living crisis, flight scepticism and the lure of the great outdoors are all playing a part. So too is the staycation boom, which was accelerated by the pandemic. Sure, only the most misty-eyed nostalgist could fail to spot boarded-up shops and buildings with peeling paintwork. But around these have sprung up galleries and cutting-edge art installations, rich cultural and culinary offerings, thriving creative quarters and a renewed sense of community. With totemic, big-money attractions such as Tate St Ives and the imminent £100m Eden Project Morecambe only adding to the momentum, these once-glittering jewels of the UK tourism industry are beginning to reclaim their lustre. Here are seven gems to visit this summer. Margate is Kent's crown jewel and home to stellar cafes, shops and attractions. Photograph by Alamy; AMS Images Margate Overcoming the restrictions of seasonality is top of every coastal town's wish list. Margate, on the eastern tip of Kent, is the exemplar of this. When the weather sends visitors scurrying inland from the 656ft expanse of sand, there's a near-endless array of distractions: artistic, retro, retail or just good old-fashioned seaside fun. Culture, embodied by the Turner Contemporary, helped the town turn the corner — but it's the unshakeable sense of community that's driving the resurgence. Why go? Dreamland, a century-old amusement park and outdoor events space resuscitated in 2015, goes from strength to strength. The Libertines, Texas and Basement Jaxx are among this summer's headliners. Where to eat: Look out for open days at The Perfect Place to Grow, a training kitchen for unprivileged youngsters adjacent to Tracey Emin's TKE Studios. Angela's, in the atmospheric Old Town, is a tiny seafood restaurant and hotel, with a big reputation among locals. Where to stay: No 42 by GuestHouse, opened in the summer of 2023, has an enviable location fronting the beach and opening on to the High Street to the rear. It's a well-heeled crowd, who come for the 21 stylish rooms and the brand's signature Pearly Cow surf-and-turf restaurant. Penzance The resurgence of Cornwall's wild west hub has been incremental, rather than sweeping, with dozens of projects, revivals and openings nudging the town in the right direction over the past decade. Festivals have provided a focus. The Golowan — 10 days of parades, performances and art displays — and the revived winter Montol ('solstice' in Cornish) are stirring affairs. The foodie scene has never been stronger and there's a ready supply of visitors via the Night Riviera sleeper train from London. Improved chopper and ferry links to the Isles of Scilly also bring the perfect twin-centre holiday within reach. Why go? The spruced-up Penlee House Gallery & Museum runs workshops, film screenings and drop-in craft activities. The house is surrounded by semi-tropical gardens (that famous west Cornwall microclimate) and Cornish cream teas are served in the Orangery cafe. Where to eat: Barbican Bistro is just an unloaded catch away from Penzance harbour. Expect moreish tapas-style seafood dishes such as scallops with chorizo, and salt and pepper squid with harissa mayo. Where to stay: Artist Residence Cornwall is the westernmost outpost of the chic-yet-homely bijou hotel group. It's set within a former Georgian inn with open brick work, heavy wooden beams and sea views from the highest of its 22 rooms. 'For mountain, sand and sea' is how the coastal town of Barmouth markets itself, which says it all. Photograph by Alamy; Philip Smith Barmouth In the sprint to the better-known treasures of North Wales such as Eryri (Snowdonia) or the Llŷn Peninsula, it's easy to miss little Barmouth, reclining on the edge of the Mawddach estuary. 'For mountain, sand and sea' is how the coastal town markets itself, which says it all. The generous, west-facing strand is a sunset hotspot, and the peaks provide an arresting backdrop landwards. This is the sort of town that's full of visitors-turned-residents and it's that sense of pride and community that's powering its revival. Why go? The battle to maintain the 2,690ft-long, Grade II-listed Barmouth Viaduct is never more than temporarily won. With the latest £30m restoration recently completed, it's a good time to stroll this engineering marvel, stretching like a wooden splinter across the estuary mouth. The more energetic might enjoy the annual 10k run in June, billed as the country's most scenic, which takes in its length. Where to eat: Lobster Pot, on the Quay, is the place for dressed crab, seafood linguine, informality — and views of the hills massing across the estuary. Where to stay: The town is full of striking properties made from the local grey dolerite and slate stone — and few are more robust or striking than Aber House, strategically placed equidistant between harbour, beach and shops. Scarborough The North Yorkshire town has a decent claim to be Britain's first seaside resort; health-giving springs discovered here in the early 17th century started the cascade of coastal visitors. But its fall was long and sustained, and the rebound very much a work in progress. The strategy? To woo a diverse crowd with a beyond-eclectic blend of attractions and events, from poetry recitals to punk festivals, while continuing to cater to the deckchaired masses on sun-trap South Bay Beach or Blue Flag North Bay Beach. Why go? The nostalgists will love strolling through the revamped Esplanade and Italian gardens, marvelling at the imposing silhouette of the Grand — the largest hotel in Europe when it was completed in 1867. The century-old 'OAT' (Open Air Theatre), which re-opened in 2010, now draws some of the country's biggest acts, often leaning into nostalgic revivals. A £20 million transformation of the West Pier is also on the horizon, set to breathe new life into the historic waterfront. Where to eat: The unimproveably named BellyRub is an informal, dog-friendly craft-beer bar specialising in inventive comfort food such as black pudding, chorizo and bacon fries. Where to stay: As the name suggests, Bike & Boot aims to court the outdoorsy crowd. It's lively and colourful with no-nonsense pizzas and burgers served in its hybrid Bareca bar/restaurant/cafe. Weymouth is a classic example of a comeback resort. Hosting the sailing for the 2012 Olympics put this coastal town back on the map. Photograph by Getty Images; Emma Asquith Weymouth It's not exactly been plain sailing for the Dorset resort since hosting the sport for the 2012 Olympics, but it's certainly got wind in its sails. The sheltered, gently shelving beach has never looked better — it's raked every day in summer and there are new drinking fountains and free showers — while the town's smart Regency townhouses and elegant parks and gardens are rightly prized. Works equally well as a stand-alone holiday destination or a pit stop for hikers tackling adjacent Chesil Beach or the South West Coast Path. Why go? The deckchairs and donkey rides reputation belies a fascinating cluster of historical attractions, led by the melancholic ruins of Henry VIII's Sandsfoot Castle and the award-winning Nothe Fort, with its newly unveiled nuclear bunker. Where to eat: The harbourside Catch at the Old Fish Market serves inventive seafood dishes with stunningly fresh ingredients. Its Michelin Guide mention draws the crowds so book way ahead. Where to stay: Standing a rather specific 'eight-second dash' from the beach, The Gresham is a listed townhouse stylishly converted into a four-star hotel with a dozen bedrooms and a fortifying breakfast. Whitley Bay 'This resort is riding a wave of regenerative spirit' was The Sunday Times's alliterative assessment of this North Tyneside town in 2024, when it named it one of the best places to live in the UK. It's not bad to visit either, with a packed programme of events during the summer, two miles of golden shore and some of the North East's best indie-store shopping in the trendy Park View area. Why go? When that bracing wind whips in off the North Sea head for the domed Spanish City, a scaled-down version of Brighton's Royal Pavilion dating from the Edwardian era which was reopened pre-pandemic after a £10m restoration. There's award-winning fish and chips, fancy afternoon teas and top-notch restaurants. Next in the town's regen sights? The crumbling, century-old Empress Ballroom, which is set to be developed into an entertainment hub with food stalls, expansive roof terrace and live entertainment space. Where to eat: Horticulture Coastal promises a 'canny vibe and locally sourced scran'. It's the sister restaurant of the acclaimed Coastal in thrumming Newcastle – just 30 minutes away by Metro. Where to stay: York House Hotel is a boutique property with 14 rooms at the southern tip of Whitley Park and a five-minute stroll from the beach. North Berwick Granted, there are coastal resorts that have suffered greater travails than this affluent East Lothian town. But it still had to endure a choppy few decades at the close of the 20th century as its 'Biarritz of the North' epithet slipped, hotels closed and local tensions around the courting of tourists grew. A healthy truce has since descended and visitors can enjoy a town that's lauded for everything from its long sandy beach to its nation-leading living standards. Why go? Fringe by the Sea, founded in 2008, has become one of Britain's most sought-after cultural extravaganzas, with 10 days of comedy, live music and culinary masterclasses. Another big draw is the Scottish Seabird Centre, which is the place to learn all about puffins and the gannets that spray-paint the famous offshore Bass Rock white with their guano. Where to eat: Berwick's foodie reputation is well deserved. Leading the charge are harbour-front Lobster Shack, serving the likes of lobster and crab rolls and smoked haddock and salmon fishcakes, and Drift, a cliff-edge medley of upcycled shipping containers with rousing Firth of Forth views and an indecently good brunch. Where to stay: From the links course unfurling outside to the imposing baronial architecture, Marine North Berwick is a quintessential Scottish coastal hotel. The landmark building dates from 1875; the lavish refit, from 2021. Published in the Coastal Collection 2025 by National Geographic Traveller (UK) To subscribe to National Geographic Traveller (UK) magazine click here. (Available in select countries only).
The Guardian
14-03-2025
- Business
- The Guardian
Tate cuts 7% of workforce in effort to reduce funding deficit from pandemic
Tate is cutting 7% of its workforce as the British arts institution seeks to address a funding deficit left over from the pandemic. About 40 roles have been affected by the cuts, made through voluntary departures and recruitment freezes. Tate, which has four galleries across London, Liverpool and Cornwall, said it had been working with staff for a number of months to achieve the reduction. 'Tate has an ambitious programme to grow our audiences across the nation and beyond,' a spokesperson said. 'To eliminate the deficit left over from the pandemic, we have strengthened new income streams, strategically prioritised our most impactful activities, and carefully streamlined out workforce.' The spokesperson said Tate had achieved its goals 'by not replacing vacant roles and by accepting voluntary exits, working closely with colleagues and unions over a number of months'. They added: 'Such changes ensure we have the stability we need to continue being as ambitious and innovative as ever.' While the number of domestic visitors to museums and galleries have returned to pre-pandemic levels, there continues to remain a reduction in the number of visitors from abroad. Overall visitor numbers are about three-quarters of pre-pandemic levels. This, combined with cuts to culture budgets, is putting pressure on institutions to reduce costs. Last year, Tate's trustees approved another deficit budget to give the institution time to develop a new financially sustainable business model. About 30% of Tate's income comes from government grants. The rest is raised through private fundraising – including corporate support, philanthropic donations and legacy bequests – as well as money from exhibition tickets sales. Tate Liverpool, which opened at the Royal Albert Dock in 1988, is undergoing a major £29.7m redevelopment, which includes the installation of new galleries. Tate St Ives is restoring the Palais de Danse – Barbara Hepworth's second studio space. In May, Tate Modern will mark its 25th birthday with free performances and events, as well as the return of Louise Bourgeois's spider Maman to the Turbine Hall. The Prospect union said it was engaging with Tate on the planned changes and would support any staff affected. The union's national secretary for heritage, Sharon Brown, said: 'We are clear that the expertise and experience of museum and gallery workers, who are often underpaid and undervalued, is what brings the collections alive and is fundamental to the success of the sector. 'Budget cuts and the impact of the pandemic have hit the sector hard and more must be done to invest in these institutions and the workforce, which are an essential part of our domestic and international visitor economy as well as of Britain's cultural landscape.'
