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Darina Allen: Three homegrown recipes to avoid ultra-processed foods

At last, the conversation around the impact of ultra-processed foods on the health of the nation is gathering momentum. I've written before about how we are sleepwalking into a health crisis of gargantuan proportions. It has crept up on us so rapidly and stealthily, that it has almost gone unnoticed. Ultra-processed foods now make up over half of the average diet in Ireland. To be precise, 54.9% according to research published in The Journal of Public Health Nutrition. Ireland tops the poll in 19 EU countries, contrast that percentage with 10.2% in Portugal. Ireland is now the second most obese country in Europe with more than a quarter of the adult population classified as obese. For some time now, it has been altogether easier to find what used to be called fake or junk food now called UPF's, than real food… Plus, there's huge confusion amongst the general public about what exactly constitutes UPF's, ultra-processed food. These are foods that are mass-produced in industrial systems, purposely engineered to be irresistible and hyperpalatable, cheap with a long shelf life. Foods that you couldn't make in your home kitchen with ingredients you would never find in your pantry. Packed with artificial flavourings, colourings and preservatives, emulsifiers, stabilisers, flavour enhancers… Often with a long list of ingredients, many unrecognisable to the general public. A chicken curry on the recently introduced Free School Meals menu had over 50 ingredients. Where are our priorities…? These foods are highly profitable and are aggressively marketed to both children and grown-ups. In the UK, only 2% of advertising is on real food, 98% is spent on ultra-processed food. I've no doubt it's similar over here. The reality is, our food system is built for profit not to nourish the population. New research links harmful ultra-processed foods to the alarming rise in obesity, Type 2 diabetes, metabolic and inflammatory diseases, cancers, even early death. So why, knowing what we know, is it legal to sell these foods? What will it take to reverse this trend and break free? But reverse it we must. We may think we actually have a choice in what we eat, but the reality is that an immense amount of money, thought and research goes into making these foods utterly irresistible and addictive and super cheap. UPFs have quietly taken over the food system and they are unquestionably making us sick. Is it possible that the manufacturers are unaware of this? About 10 major food corporations control 80% of the food supply on our supermarket shelves. Meal Deals, takeaways, grab, gobble and go, Deliveroo and its many incarnations have become a way of life... So, what to do? In the words of Michael Pollan, 'Eat nothing your grandmother wouldn't recognise as food,' kind of sums it up simply. Chris Van Tulleken's excellent book 'Ultra-Processed People', published by Cornerstone Press draws a direct correlation between high levels of ultra-processed food consumption and the rise in both physical and mental health issues. Should the production companies not be required to pay for the ill health they are causing? How long before the Irish government will no longer be able to fund the health service? So, what to do? Time for bold and coordinated action and a huge rethink about how to tackle the decline in national health. This will not be an easy matter, many of the major food corporations are wealthier and more powerful than governments. As the grandmother of 11 grandchildren, the UPF food situation is keeping me awake at night. We need a coalition of parents, teachers and citizens to demand action. We urgently need to reexamine our priorities — after all, what could be more important than the future health of the nation, our children and grandchildren. This is no easy task to tackle. but what could be more important, what could be more urgent? After all, the wealth of the nation depends on the health of a nation and the health of a nation depends on the food we eat…time for action! Many of the foods we take for granted are ultra-processed. Here is an alternative to the bottled tomato sauce which has become a staple for so many. Avoid the majority of breakfast cereals, with a few rare exceptions like real porridge, most are ultra-processed. Fish Fingers with Garlic Mayo recipe by:Darina Allen A perfect after-school dinner Servings 8 Preparation Time  5 mins Cooking Time  10 mins Total Time  15 mins Course  Main Cuisine  Irish Ingredients 8 pieces fresh haddock, hake or pollock cut into fingers 11.5 x 3cm (4 1/2 x 1 1/4 inch) approximately salt and freshly ground black pepper white flour, seasoned well with salt, freshly ground pepper and a little cayenne or smoked paprika (optional) For the egg wash: 2-3 beaten free-range, organic eggs and a little milk panko or dried white breadcrumbs To serve: crunchy little gem lettuce leaves For the garlic mayo: 225g (8oz) homemade mayonnaise 1-4 crushed garlic cloves (depending on size) Method Add the garlic to the mayonnaise and season to taste. Heat the oil in a deep fry to 180˚C/350°F. Season the fingers of fish with salt and freshly ground black pepper. Then, dip the fish, first into the well-seasoned flour and then into the beaten egg and finally coat evenly all over with the crumbs of your choice. Pat gently to firm up…! Heat some olive oil or clarified butter in a wide frying pan over a medium heat. Cook the fish fingers until golden and crispy on the outside and cooked through into the centre. Drain on kitchen paper. I love to wrap them in crunchy little gem lettuce leaves, add a dollop of garlic mayo (aioli) or your mayo of choice and enjoy. Ballymaloe granola recipe by:Darina Allen A million times more delicious, nutritious and satisfying cereal than virtually anything you can buy. Servings 20 Preparation Time  5 mins Cooking Time  30 mins Total Time  35 mins Course  Baking Ingredients 350g (12oz) local runny honey 225g (8fl oz) light olive or grapeseed oil 470g (1lb 1oz approx.) oat flakes 200g (7oz) barley flakes 200g (7oz) wheat flakes 100g (3 1/2oz) rye flakes 150g (5oz) seedless raisins or sultanas 150g (5oz) peanuts, hazelnuts, almonds or cashew nuts split and roasted 70g (2 3/4oz) wheatgerm and /or millet flakes 50g (2oz) chopped apricots, chopped dates Method Preheat the oven to 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4. Mix oil and honey together in a saucepan, heat just enough to melt the honey. Mix well into the mixed flakes. Spread thinly on two baking sheets. Bake in the preheated oven for 20-30 minutes, turning frequently, making sure the edges don't burn. It should be just golden and toasted, not roasted! Allow to get cold. Mix in the raisins or sultanas, roasted nuts, toasted seeds, chopped dates, apricots and wheatgerm. Store in a screw top jar or a plastic box, keeps for 1-2 weeks. Serve with sliced banana, berries in season, milk and/or natural yoghurt. Tomato fondue recipe by:Darina Allen Tomato fondue is one of our great convertibles. It has a number of uses. We serve it as a vegetable or a sauce for pasta, filling for omelettes, topping for pizza… Servings 6 Preparation Time  15 mins Cooking Time  30 mins Total Time  45 mins Course  Main Ingredients 2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil 110g onions, sliced 1 clove of garlic, crushed 900g very ripe tomatoes in summer, or 2 x 400g tins of tomatoes in winter, but peel before using salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar to taste 1 tbsp of any of the following; freshly chopped mint, thyme, parsley, lemon balm, marjoram or torn basil Method Heat the oil in a stainless steel sauté pan or casserole. Add the onions and garlic and toss until coated. Cover and sweat on a gentle heat until soft but not coloured -— about 10 minutes. It is vital for the success of this dish that the onions are completely soft before the tomatoes are added. Slice the peeled fresh tomatoes or chopped tinned tomatoes and add with all the juice to the onions. Season with salt, freshly ground pepper and sugar (tinned tomatoes need lots of sugar because of their high acidity). Add a generous sprinkling of herbs. Cover and cook for just 10-20 minutes more, or until the tomato softens, uncover and reduce a little. Cook fresh tomatoes for a shorter time to preserve the lively fresh flavour. Tinned tomatoes need to be cooked for longer depending on whether you plan to use the fondue as a vegetable, sauce or filling. SEASONAL JOURNAL Sophie Morris Questions… Check out Sophie Morris on Instagram. She uses her page to raise awareness about food labels, reducing ultra-processed foods, clever supermarket swaps…she's got quite the following. Instagram @sophie_morris Grow It Yourself Grow At School Programme Bravo GIY… As written about overleaf by Joe McNamee, GIY's Grow At School programme is in over 700 schools providing food gardens and supporting resources to teachers to use food growing and garden-based learning. Their aim is to roll it out to all 3300 primary schools; reaching over 500,000 children and their families. They are calling on the government to commit to embedding food growing education in schools and to support GIY in a national roll-out of Grow At School to every school. They need help in spreading the word by posting/sharing wherever you can and tagging your local TDs and key politicians. Really worth supporting…. Tag GIY on what you post to Instagram @giyireland and @mickkellygrows Read More Darina Allen: Three ways to try the sublime flavours of Southwestern France