5 days ago
Looking for adventure? This untamed island is the Caribbean's best-kept secret
Located 28 miles from St. Maarten, the five-square-mile island of Saba isn't the first place that springs to mind when it comes to adventure travel. Draped in wild greenery from every angle, this volcanic island looks almost vacant from afar. With no traffic lights, no high-rises, no beaches, and no crowds, it remains relatively under the radar as one of the smallest inhabited islands in the Caribbean.
However, that same remoteness is exactly what once made Saba both uninviting and intriguing. In 1493, the island caught the eye of Christopher Columbus, who chose not to stop there due to its craggy coast. Ironically, what deterred explorers later drew in outlaws: The island eventually became a favorite hiding place for pirates and smugglers, who found refuge in its steep cliffs and secluded coves. Climb Mount Scenery
Seen from both the land and the sea, the dormant volcano of Mount Scenery is the pinnacle of Saba and the highest point in the Kingdom of the Netherlands. Though there are several trails to follow, the most strenuous is the 1,064 stairs to the summit—certainly not for the faint of heart.
Although much of the land remained unused until the 20th century, the gentler slopes were actively farmed up until the 1960s, when construction of the Mount Scenery Trail began. 'My task was carrying cement and water on my father's donkey. Four men and four donkeys. I started in 1969 and completed the steps to the very last in 1970,' recalls local and guide, James 'Crocodile' Johnson.
Along the trail, wild flora and fauna hug the path on every side and Giant Taro, or 'elephant ears,' act as shelter from tropical downpours. Near the summit, two narrow paths lead hikers into the heart of the cloud forest, where a cool-mist is welcomed and the area is dense with mahogany trees. There are more than 30 protected diving sites around Saba. Photograph by / Alamy Stock Photo (Top) (Left) and Photograph by D. Holden Bailey / Alamy Stock Photo (Bottom) (Right) Visit the top dive sites
The peak of an extinct volcano in the northern Lesser Antilles, Saba is surrounded by sea cliffs and bays which lead to spectacular dive sites. The island is particularly renowned for its pinnacles and seamounts (underwater volcanoes) that rise to within 85 feet of the surface. Here, there's more than 30 protected dive sites just minutes from the harbor and it's also home to the Atlantic Ocean's largest submerged atoll.
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The ring-shaped reefs are formed by the eruption of seamounts that spill lava and create oceanic islands. Tiny corals then cling to these islands to create the exoskeleton of the reefs. With a thriving biodiversity of whales, sharks, dolphins, turtles, and fish, the Saba Bank National Park was named a national park in 2010.
Located at the eastern end of a horseshoe-shaped seamount, the Third Encounter has a maximum depth of 110 feet and is a short excursion to the mysterious Eye of the Needle. Rising to 90 feet below the surface, the pinnacle is home to Caribbean reef sharks, nurse sharks, manta rays, various schools of fish, and a friendly Nassau grouper named Charlie.
Saba's famous hot sands and dramatic overhangs can be found at Babylon, where hawksbill turtles and nurse sharks glide gracefully alongside lava flows and sand chutes. A little farther south, the Hot Springs highlight the island's active volcanic origins with an array of marine life and coral-encrusted boulders. The Crispeen Trail takes hikers through Saba's secondary rainforest. Photograph by frans lemmens / Alamy Stock Photo Where to go hiking
Solitude can be found across the island of Saba. Waking up to the gentle hum of hundreds of tree frogs daily. Untouched nature at every turn. With its winding streets and mass of greenery, strolling around Saba feels like a hike in and of itself, but there are also a slew of well-maintained hiking trails around the island.
The view atop Mount Scenery is breathtaking, with wispy cloud coverage and glimpses of distant civilization, but there are also 20 other well-kept hiking trails for every level of hiker. Starting at the same location in Windwardside as the Mount Scenery hike, the Crispeen Trail passes through Saba's secondary rainforest. You'll spot numerous bird species, insects, and vibrant flora.
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Challenge your balance along the Ladder Trail—about 800 steps along the coast, this route once served as the main route for transporting goods. Carved into the rock, the steep climb offers sweeping views of the ocean and is a humbling experience.
Tranquil pools and roaring waves, the Tidepools Trail is a circus for the senses. The easy trail takes around 25-minutes one way along the shoreline, and is a special way to observe old lava flows and vibrant ecosystems. Where to go snorkeling
The untouched seas and volcanic remnants draw in an abundance of marine life to Saba's surrounding reefs. Primarily an island for divers, snorkelers are often ushered toward the shallower reefs (Torrens Point, Tent Reef, and Hole in the Corner) for safety.
The Saba Marine Park contains more than 30 dive sites and a few snorkeling sites that are easy to reach. The shallow waters of Wells Bay are alive with a variety of juvenile species and interesting underwater structures. It's actually one of the only places on the island where you can snorkel directly from the shore thanks to its wandering beach that comes and goes, depending on the swell. Another popular snorkel site sits at the northern end of Wells Bay. The protected waters and clear visibility of Torrens Point make great conditions for a shallow dive or more experienced snorkel, with depths ranging from five-to-30 feet.
A more common option for visitors is to take a boat tour out to some of the snorkeling sites, with the help of a guide. Sea Saba will ferry guests from the harbor to locations such as Well's Bay/Torrens Point, Cove Bay, and Ladder Bay.
(Liquid sunshine: everything you should know about Caribbean rum) Hayley Domin is a British travel journalist and marketing manager in the hospitality industry. A solo travel advocate and founder of Hayley on Hiatus, she shares destination guides and travel tips to inspire independent exploration. Her work has been featured in Condé Nast Traveler, National Geographic, Business Insider, AFAR, the New Zealand Herald, and more.
