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New cycle routes in Canada's west
New cycle routes in Canada's west

West Australian

time06-07-2025

  • West Australian

New cycle routes in Canada's west

A new cycling trail on Vancouver Island's wild west coast links the laid-back surf towns of Tofino and Ucluelet — and it's as meaningful as it is scenic. For Tla-o-qui-aht elder Levi Martin, the ʔapsčiik t̓ašii (pronounced 'ups-cheek ta-shee') is more than a pathway — it's a route grounded in reconciliation, ceremony, and cultural respect. When asked what kind of input his people had in the trail's creation, a grin crosses Levi's face and his response is succinct: 'Everything and anything.' It hasn't always been that way. For centuries, colonial governments in Canada ignored Indigenous rights and traditions. But this trail — opened in 2022 after years of design and collaboration — is different. It lies entirely within the hahuuli, the traditional homelands of the Tla-o-qui-aht and YuułuɁiłɁatḥ First Nations. From the earliest planning meetings in 2018, Parks Canada worked closely with Indigenous leaders to ensure the route would respect sacred sites, ecological sensitivity, and cultural significance. An Elders Working Group gave the trail its name, ʔapsčiik t̓ašii, which loosely translates to 'going the right direction on the path'. It's both literal and metaphorical — a reminder to walk (or ride) with awareness, humility, and respect for all living things. Martin hopes the path lives up to its name. 'We don't just go in there and do whatever we feel we need to do or want to do,' he says. 'Before we go into another person's territory, we stop and say a prayer — for ourselves, for the land, for the community. That we will not do anything to offend the land or the community.' The ride itself is extraordinary. The 25km trail links seamlessly with multi-use paths in both Tofino and Ucluelet, creating an 80km return route. It weaves through towering cedar forests, skirts second-growth bogs on boardwalks, and passes some of the most beautiful beaches in Canada. Environmental stewardship is built into every curve of the path: salmon habitat has been protected, amphibian tunnels help frogs cross under the highway, and construction was paused during migratory bird nesting season. Trailheads are clearly marked at both ends of Pacific Rim National Park Reserve. I started from the north, near my hotel in Tofino, though either direction offers a wonderful experience. Just be sure to bring your own water and snacks — there are no services inside the park. I stopped halfway at UkeePoke, near the southern entrance, for a custom-made poke bowl, which is highly recommended. Along the way, you'll see signs of ceremony and care. When trees needed to be removed, a portion was returned to the earth 'so that it will always come back', Martin explains. 'We make those connections to make sure we do things with honour, with dignity and with love,' he says. These teachings run deep. Indigenous peoples have inhabited the west coast of Vancouver Island for more than 10,000 years. Before European contact and the catastrophic impact of diseases like smallpox, this region was home to tens of thousands of people. Many communities suffered population declines exceeding 80 per cent during the 1800s alone. Pacific Rim was declared a national park in 1970. In 2000, it became a national park reserve — a designation that acknowledges the land's ongoing importance to Indigenous peoples. Parks Canada now works to integrate Indigenous perspectives into visitor experiences, including plans for interpretive signage along the trail. 'We are not promoting people to come here,' says Parks Canada spokesperson Crystal Bolduc. 'We are promoting how people should come here.' Vancouver Island offers several other rewarding routes. Here's a handful of top options if you're keen to explore more on two wheels... + Galloping Goose Trail Victoria to Sooke — 55km one way. This scenic, multi-use path follows a former rail line from downtown Victoria to the rural town of Sooke. It crosses trestle bridges, skirts coastal inlets, and passes through farmland and forest. Don't miss the Sooke Potholes — natural swimming holes carved into the bedrock of the Sooke River — for a refreshing dip. + Lochside Trail Victoria to Sidney — 33km one way. A gentle ride north from Victoria to the town of Sidney that is perfect for families and casual cyclists. The trail winds through the Saanich Peninsula's parks, wetlands, farmlands, and quiet suburbs. As you approach Sidney, views open up over the island-dotted Haro Strait. A couple of suggestions: stop at Mitchell's Farm Market for a sweet treat and watch for the Whale Tail Farm near Cordova Bay — a quirky nursery known for drought-tolerant perennials, where you will see a series of sculptural wooden posts carved to resemble whale tails. + Cowichan Valley Trail Shawnigan Lake to Lake Cowichan to Duncan — 120km total. Part of Canada's Great Trail network, this scenic gravel trail winds through dense forests, rolling farmland, and alongside rivers. The highlight is the Kinsol Trestle, one of the tallest and longest wooden rail trestles in the world. + Parksville to Qualicum Beach Via Oceanside Route / Highway 19A — 15km one way. A flat and breezy coastal ride with ocean views nearly the whole way. The view of the coastal mountains and their snow-capped peaks on the mainland of British Columbia across the Salish Sea's Strait of Georgia is one of the most beautiful views in Canada. The paved shoulder makes it safe and accessible, with stops for sandy beaches, cafes, and artisan shops in both towns. + Nanaimo Parkway Trail and E&N Trail A mix of urban commuting paths and leisure cycling routes that traverse Nanaimo from edge to edge. The E&N Trail, built on a former rail line, offers a more scenic and slightly hilly alternative. Expect a mix of forest patches, neighbourhood views, and glimpses of the harbour.

Fate of Yankee trade ship Tonquin brought to life in play at Tofino's Village Green
Fate of Yankee trade ship Tonquin brought to life in play at Tofino's Village Green

Hamilton Spectator

time16-06-2025

  • Entertainment
  • Hamilton Spectator

Fate of Yankee trade ship Tonquin brought to life in play at Tofino's Village Green

By Nora O'Malley Local Journalism Initiative Reporter Tofino, B.C. – Children playing 'Tla-o-qui-aht warriors' paddled in cardboard cutouts of dugout canoes around the wooden pirate ship play structure at Tofino's Village Green to recount the fate of the Tonquin. The 269-ton American trade ship sank to the bottom of Clayoquot Sound in 1811 after being overwhelmed by the warriors – and blew up. As told by Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation's Gisele Martin and her father Joe Martin on June 11, the Tonquin's goal was to establish a trade post and claim the region as part of the United States of America. The Tonquin's captain Jonathan Thorn, who was played by Tofino resident Hugo Hall, was brash, and not well-liked by his crew. Thorn wanted to trade for sea otter furs with Gisele's great, great grandfather Nookmis. But when Nookmis told him the price for one pelt was three blankets, 30 beads, 30 buckets and three knifes, Thorn scoffed and shoved the otter pelt in Nookmis' face. In the novel Astoria by American historian Washington Irving, which chronicles the entire journey of the Tonquin, Thorn is said to have 'slapped' the chief in the face. The next day, angry Tla-o-qui-aht warriors boarded the ship and threw the captain overboard. 'The captain got clubbed by the women and disappeared under water,' Gisele regaled the audience on the sunny June 11 afternoon. One crew member, James Lewis, who was played by Clayoquot Action's Dan Lewis, allegedly scuttled to the bottom of the ship and lit five tons of gun powder. 'KA-BOOM!' Joe exclaimed as the children ran around the mock Tonquin ship with sparklers. 'Sparks flew and Nookmis got thrown overboard.' Tonquin's crew and roughly 100 brave Tla-o-qui-aht warriors perished in the sea. Martin says Lewis became the first 'suicide bomber' of Clayoquot Sound. 'People in Opitsaht could see the mass of the ship for three years poking out of the water. During that time, Tla-o-qui-aht became very diligent about protecting this coast,' said Gisele. It wasn't until 20 years later that Tla-o-qui-aht started having a relationship with some of the British trading companies. 'That's why Tofino is here today and that's also why this is not part of the United States today. We've never sold this land. We've never ceded it; we've never signed it away in a treaty,' said Gisele, noting Tla-o-qui-aht's fight to protect Meares Island from old growth logging, preserving the source of Tofino's drinking water. '[I]n 1984 Tla-o-qui-aht took the government all the way to the Supreme Court of Canada. In their own courts, the government could not prove that they owned this land.' Forty-one years ago, Tla-o-qui-aht First Nation, with support from the Nuu-chah-nulth Tribal Council (NTC), famously declared Meares Island the 'Wanachis Hilth-huu-is Tribal Park' under Nuu-chah-nulth law. The Meares Declaration protected the old-growth forest from being logged, and is recognized as one of the largest demonstrations of civil disobedience in North America. Prior to the conservation stance, there was no 'tribal park' in existence under provincial or federal legislation. The wreck of the Tonquin was never found… But one day in the spring of 2000, a local crab fisherman found his trap hooked on the end of an old, old anchor – that anchor, encrusted with blue trading beads, is believed to be the Tonquin's. The anchor is on display at the Village Green in the gazebo to this day and belongs to the Tla-o-qui-aht. -30- Error! Sorry, there was an error processing your request. There was a problem with the recaptcha. Please try again. You may unsubscribe at any time. By signing up, you agree to our terms of use and privacy policy . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google privacy policy and terms of service apply. Want more of the latest from us? Sign up for more at our newsletter page .

Tla-o-qui-aht gets over $1 million to boost their tourism economy
Tla-o-qui-aht gets over $1 million to boost their tourism economy

Hamilton Spectator

time12-06-2025

  • Business
  • Hamilton Spectator

Tla-o-qui-aht gets over $1 million to boost their tourism economy

By Nora O'Malley Local Journalism Reporter Tofino, B.C. – Tin Wis Resort, a Tla-o-qui-aht owned and operated business, is getting a $1.149-million cultural makeover. A permanent carving shed has been built on the property, new totem poles will be erected and the Wickaninnish Conference Hall is getting primed for a new roof and kitchen space – and that's just phase one. 'It's just really going to make Tin Wis Resort this fully immersive Tla-o-qui-aht experience. I'm super excited. It's all the team that's been doing all the work. I'm happy to just be here to be along for the ride,' said CEO of Tla-o-qui-aht Development Corporation (TDC) Nik Vischschraper, who hit-the-ground-running with the nation six months ago. He said the long-term vision for the unique project is to turn Tin Wis into a 'cultural hub' and 'learning campus' for the community and visitors. TDC stacked together $932,170 from the Province of BC's Rural Economic Diversification & Infrastructure Program, $179, 875 from PacifiCan's Tourism Growth Fund, $10,000 from the Outdoor Recreation Council of BC's Outdoor Recreation Fund and $27,000 from Creative BC Society's Live Music Presentation Fund to bring the project to life. Phase two involves mentoring and training young Tla-o-qui-aht members to launch their own small business. 'Many Tla-o-qui-aht members have these great ideas, but they just don't know how to bring it to life. Or they don't have an idea and they want to run their own business. Tin Wis will be a hub to provide this development and training,' said Vischschraper. Tla-o-qui-aht has set the goal of gaining 10 per cent of Tofino's annual economic output in the next 10 years. 'We are calling it 10 in 10. We want Tla-o-qui-aht-based businesses getting more of their lion's share,' he said. In 2024, visitor activities in the region contributed to an estimated $657 million in total economic output to the provincial economy, according to a recently released Economic Impact of Tourism in Tofino study. 'Why have six whale watching tour (companies) and not a single one is owned by Tla-o-qui-aht?' Vischschraper continued. In the summer of 2023, Tla-o-qui-aht opened Tsawaak RV Resort and Campground adjacent to Tin Wis Resort. Tsawaak has since won an Indigenous Tourism Award for Leading the Way in Business Development. 'We are definitely willing to partner. Maybe there will be businesses that become part of Tin Wis or become part Tsawaak. You know, you come for a camping weekend at Tsawaak and that's where your tour starts, and it's a guided interpretive tour at Tin Wis beach,' said Vischschraper. TDC is also working at extending the pedestrian pathway by Tin Wis all the way down to the highway with lighting, reflectors and interpretive signage. 'This will create the connection for not just Tla-o-qui-aht, but for the entire community, that Tin Wis Road is an access to Tin Wis beach and the Tin Wis Resort area where we have a bunch of amazing businesses,' he said. -30- Error! Sorry, there was an error processing your request. There was a problem with the recaptcha. Please try again. You may unsubscribe at any time. By signing up, you agree to our terms of use and privacy policy . This site is protected by reCAPTCHA and the Google privacy policy and terms of service apply. Want more of the latest from us? Sign up for more at our newsletter page .

Reshaping a B.C. court to include Indigenous values
Reshaping a B.C. court to include Indigenous values

Hamilton Spectator

time15-05-2025

  • Politics
  • Hamilton Spectator

Reshaping a B.C. court to include Indigenous values

By Nora O'Malley Local Journalism Initiative Reporter Tofino, B.C. – Direct efforts are underway to address the distrust and problematic history First Nations face within Canada's justice system. At the beginning of May, Tofino Provincial Court was relocated from the Tofino Community Hall to the Tin Wis Conference Centre on Tla-o-qui-aht-First Nations traditional territory. Court will continue to be held at this new location on Tla-o-qui-aht land for the next few years. Tin Wis is the former site of Christie Indian Residential School. 'It used to be the gymnasium of the residential school. It holds a lot of significance,' said Tla-o-qui-aht Justice Manager Curtis Joseph (Tayiisimčił). Members of the newly formed Tla-o-qui-aht Justice Committee will also be present during the sentencing process to ensure community members are represented – and to allow for accountability. Elder Gloria Frank is a member of the Tla-o-qui-aht Justice Committee. Frank, alongside all nine members of the justice committee, has taken an oath of confidentially. 'Whatever happens, it stays (in the court),' said Frank. 'We are there to have a serious impact on victims. We want to give them a positive voice and make sure they are safe. We offer comfort and reassurance that it's not (their) fault. We want to take that fear away from our victims.' 'On one side, we are the loving, guiding, community members, but we also have to be unbiased and non-judgmental,' elder Debbie David adds. Dezerae Joseph, Tla-o-qui-aht's women and girls project co-ordinator, also sits on the justice committee. She says since its inception a couple years ago, more people are coming forward, wanting to see justice. 'People are speaking up about sexual assault, violence and impaired driving,' said Dezerae. 'We are seeing the change. We are seeing people not wanting to be silenced.' Provincial Court Judge Alexander Wolf said what Tla-o-qui-aht is doing is 'indigenizing' mainstream court; they are creating a one-of-a-kind concept that is distinct from First Nations/Indigenous Courts. 'One of the difficulties we have [with] the mainstream court systems is they are sort of exclusive,' Judge Wolf told the Ha-Shilth-Sa. He added that these court systems can exclude the needs of a community, disregarding the wishes of elders 'and alternatives that exist to mainstream problem solving.' 'From the judiciary side, this is a great national example of how reconciliation is a process and it's a journey,' said Judge Wolf. 'It's not a destination, to me. Some people, when they look at reconciliation, they say, 'Well we can't have it because we can't go back to a time and place and restore a sense of harmony that never existed.' But I think, as we go forward, that judiciary with communities can go forward and make one view and belief compatible with another.' The Law Foundation of BC granted Tla-o-qui-aht's justice initiative $1 million over four years, under the same stream of funding that Indigenous Courts are funded, according to Joseph. The Tla-o-qui-aht Justice Committee is the primary forum for discussions between the Tofino RCMP, and the two parties have created a formal Letter of Expectation (LOE), with input/approval from Tla-o-qui-aht Chief and Council. Youth Engagement is listed as the top priority in the draft letter for this year. 'It's about building that relationship,' said Joseph. 'Sgt. Owen Smith has been very co-operative with us. He gives us an idea of where we need to focus energy on, and a lot of that is alcohol related.' Tofino/Ahousaht RCMP Detachment Commander Sgt. Owen Smith expressed positivity towards the shift to include Indigenous values. 'In the 18 months that I have worked with (the justice committee), the focus and impact of our work has expanded significantly,' said Sgt. Smith in an email. 'Communication is critical to a good working relationship, and I feel TFN and the RCMP have been great partners in recent months.' 'I hope that our work with the committee removes a lot of the unknown about policing, highlights the work the RCMP is doing to keep community members safe, and demonstrates that we're working together, toward the same goals,' he said. Joseph says they are in regular conversation with Crown Counsel and are also working on a Memorandum of Understanding (MOU) with Port Alberni Community Corrections and a MOU with the West Coast Community Resources Society for third-party reporting for sexual assault. Sgt. Smith confirmed that 'all but two officers in Tofino and Ahousaht are now trained in the use of, and equipped with, body-worn cameras. They are a great addition, providing many benefits to the public, officer and court files.' Judge Wolf urged all First Nations communities to create a stronger partnership with the judiciary and to focus on creating a healthier environment, especially for Indigenous women and girls. 'We have a national crisis of children in care, and we put more Indigenous women in jail than any other group. The atrocity to me nationally is how higher incarceration rates are for Indigenous girls aged 12 to 18,' said Judge Wolf. He offered words of wisdom from retired Judge Barry Stuart, who uplifted justice reform in the Yukon by implementing the Peacemaking Circle: 'Stuart said, 'You don't need money to make change, you just need a pot of coffee and a dozen donuts and some people that want to make change'. You need people and you need heart. That's essentially what we did here,' said Judge Wolf. -30- Caption Circled by provincial peace officers and Crown Counsel, members of the Tla-o-qui-aht Justice Committee elder Gloria Frank, elder Debbie David (front seated), Justice Manager Curtis Joseph, Judge Wolf and women and girls co-ordinator Dezerae Joseph honour a milestone first week of relocating Tofino Provincial Court to Tin Wis on May 5. (Nora O'Malley photo)

Beached whale provides ‘great big learning experience' for Tla-o-qui-aht
Beached whale provides ‘great big learning experience' for Tla-o-qui-aht

Hamilton Spectator

time15-05-2025

  • General
  • Hamilton Spectator

Beached whale provides ‘great big learning experience' for Tla-o-qui-aht

Eric Plummer Tofino, BC - After engaging in a practice that once sustained their ancestors over a century ago, dealing with a whale that washed up on Long Beach has been a massive learning experience for Tla-o-qui-aht members. 'It takes a whole community to get this done,' said Gisele Martin, after her and other members of the First Nation harvested parts of the deceased grey whale, or maaʔak, on May 10. 'I think it's been a great big, amazing learning experience.' Earlier in the week Gisele was alerted by her father Joe Martin, who heard that a whale was seen floating by Long Beach in Tla-o-qui-aht waters. A master carver, Joe was away in Powell River finishing a canoe with students, so he let his daughter know about the cetacean's loose body. Joe was keen for the First Nation to be the first to take care of the animal. 'I told my daughter, 'That's our whale, it drifts to our beach',' he said. Gisele went with fellow Tribal Parks Guardian Nate Currie to tie the whale down. 'I did try to tie a rope, rope them when we were on the beach at low tide, but it was really hard to get it secure because the tail was very, very heavy and it was suctioned to the sand,' said Gisele. When the tide rose at midnight Gisele had an unsettling feeling about the animal remaining secured. She called Currie to revisit the site with her, and found the whale loose and rolling around in the surf. 'The tail was so strong,' she recalled of the struggle to tie the tail down again. 'It was just really humbling. The size of it felt so much larger in the dark. It just seemed like this massive, massive being.' 'It was quite an adventure in the moonlight,' added Gisele. According to Parks Canada, the grey whale was seen floating in the area since May 6, the day before Gisele and Nate Currie tied the animal's tail to the beach. When it was finally secured the Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks Guardians and Parks Canada drew a line in the sand around the body to restrict access 'both for health and safety reasons, and in respect for the whale,' said the federal department in an email to Ha-Shilth-Sa. According to Jim Darling, a biologist and Tofino resident who has been studying whales since the 1970s, there's approximately 200 grey whales living off the coast of Vancouver Island, and another 15,000 that migrate offshore from Mexico to the Arctic each year. Samples were taken from the body to perform a necropsy, the results of which are yet to be reported by Fisheries and Oceans Canada. But those who cut into the animal observed signs of head trauma. 'Right behind the head there was a lot of blood clot,' said Joe Martin. 'I'm thinking that whale was surfacing when it got hit by a ship. It probably got knocked out or killed immediately. I think it was dead for maybe three or four days before it landed on the beach here.' 'It may not just have been a single thing that caused the death of this whale,' added Gisele. 'We can see that they got some kind of blunt trauma to their head, but why did this whale get blunt trauma to the back of their head? That's also related to them feeling disoriented of being emaciated, too skinny and not floating well, not getting enough food.' On May 10 the cutting began with Joe taking a section of blubber from behind the head. 'That is the section where our family would take the first cut from the whale,' he said. 'The blubber was not very thick, maybe six inches at the most in some places. Mostly that whale was really skinny.' The elder has carved into grey whales before, including one that was towed into Ahousaht in March 2000 after it died while entangled in a net being used collect herring eggs on kelp. This was the first whale taken to Ahousaht's shore for consumption since 1963, a rare return to the time-honoured practice that provided Nuu-chah-nulth communities with wealth for countless generations. Joe Martin also cut into a grey whale that was hunted in May 1999 by the Makah Tribe of Neah Bay, the first they had harvested in nearly 80 years. 'That blubber was about 10 inches thick too. It was healthy,' recalled Joe. That hunt of 26 years ago occurred with the support of the US government and the International Whaling Commission, but amid public pressure the Makah have lobbied ever since to exercise a right that remains enshrined in the 1855 Treaty of Neah Bay. They hope to resume whaling in July if a permit is granted final approval, setting off a ceremonial and subsistence hunt that would enable the harvest of up to 25 grey whales over 10 years. As people removed parts from the maaʔak on Long Beach, it became clear that the real work begins once a whale is brought to shore. 'At one point I counted 19 people cutting at once, and a whole other crowd of people watching and helping,' said Gisele. 'There was little kids helping to pull off the blubber.' This all occurred after a morning ceremony was performed. 'It's the appropriate thing that I figured was necessary for that whale and how our people respected them,' said Joe. 'We have to uphold those responsibilities.' 'I really hope that no more whales suffer and are washed ashore like that,' noted Gisele. 'But at the same time, should they, I feel that I've gotten way more of a concept of what I would do or wouldn't do and the work involved.' The response of government agencies gave Gisele hope of how relations with her nation have improved. 'A lot of times we've been intercepted and stopped from our cultural life ways by government agencies, and even Parks Canada staff in the past,' she said. 'This feels like the first time that all these different agencies have come together and cohesively just supported Tla-o-qui-aht leadership in what to do with this whale.' The carcass has since been buried in an undisclosed location. Joe is waiting for 'critters' to eat off the remaining flesh from the jaw bones so he can carve it into an art piece, while others are rendering the whale blubber they removed into oil. Some have even eaten the meat. 'I had some last night,' said Joe. 'It was really good. I'm still full.' -With files from Nora O'Malley and Denise Titian -30- Gisele Martin collects baleen from a grey whale at Long Beach on May 10 for ceremonial use in Tla-o-qui-aht Tribal Parks. (Marcie Callewaert photo)

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