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Asahi Shimbun
11-07-2025
- Asahi Shimbun
VOX POPULI: Tips from the 19th century on how to enjoy climbing Fuji
Climbers line up in front of the entry gate on the opening day of the Mount Fuji climbing season on July 10. (Asahi Shimbun file photo) John Rutherford Alcock (1809–1897), a British diplomat and writer, served as the first British minister in Japan during the turbulent final years of the Edo Period (1603–1867), as the Tokugawa Shogunate neared its end. He is also remembered as the first foreign national to climb Mount Fuji. At the time, pilgrimages to Mount Fuji were a popular form of leisure among ordinary Japanese. In his book 'The Capital of the Tycoon,' Alcock recounts how 'Servants and followers of every denomination, under every imaginable pretext,' joined his expedition, turning it into a grand procession. His party began the ascent from the foot of the mountain in what is now Shizuoka Prefecture and spent the night at a hut halfway up. The next morning, he witnessed the sunrise: 'The first rays of the sun lit up the coastline, and in an instant, a single beam swept across the vast surface of the Pacific Ocean.' There is no doubt that the breathtaking and majestic scenery—unchanged to this day—is what gives Mount Fuji its enduring international appeal. I recently visited the fifth station of the Fuji Subaru Line, a scenic 30-kilometer toll road that climbs the mountain's northern slopes from Lake Kawaguchiko to a key staging point for climbers and sightseers. Situated at an elevation of 2,300 meters on the 3,776-meter peak, the fifth station serves as a popular gateway to the summit. A young American man who had just descended from the mountain, still awestruck by what he had seen, exclaimed: 'It was a fantastic sunrise. I want to recommend it to everyone.' In recent years, however, Mount Fuji's soaring popularity has brought with it a number of persistent issues. Some climbers attempt so-called 'dangan tozan'—literally 'bullet climbing'—a rushed ascent to the summit in a single push without adequate rest or preparation. Others set out inappropriately dressed for the harsh conditions at higher elevations. As a result, the summit area often becomes severely congested, especially before dawn when many gather to watch the sunrise. To help manage the flow of climbers, a steel gate was installed this year at the trailhead on the Yamanashi Prefecture side to regulate entry times. On July 10, when the official climbing season began on the Shizuoka Prefecture side, similar restrictions were introduced on the three routes. The newly introduced 4,000-yen ($27) climbing fee is not insignificant, but it serves as an effective measure to promote awareness and responsibility among climbers. If the system becomes established, Mount Fuji's appeal as a World Cultural Heritage site is likely to grow even stronger. During his ascent, Alcock listened intently to the singing of skylarks, sipped hot coffee and took a keen interest in the clothing and religious customs of Japanese pilgrims. He spent three days and two nights on the mountain—a man whose thoughtful observations prompt reflection on what it truly means to experience and appreciate a mountain. —The Asahi Shimbun, July 11 * * * Vox Populi, Vox Dei is a popular daily column that takes up a wide range of topics, including culture, arts and social trends and developments. Written by veteran Asahi Shimbun writers, the column provides useful perspectives on and insights into contemporary Japan and its culture.


Asahi Shimbun
05-07-2025
- Entertainment
- Asahi Shimbun
Fixture in Mito's nightlife leads revival of geisha party tradition
Yasuko Yasuhara performs traditional geisha dance in Mito on May 20. (Kazunori Haga) MITO--Yasuko Yasuhara, once a top party hostess in this Ibaraki prefectural capital, made an inevitable career shift as she grew older. In the process, she revived and protected not only her livelihood but also a generations-old 'ozashiki' entertainment culture that has now become an official part of Mito city's identity. The word ozashiki refers to a tatami-mat drawing room, particularly at fancy 'ryotei' restaurants, or to a party held in such a setting. The tradition features elegant dances accompanied by samisen music performed by geiko, as geisha are known here. Such events date back to at least the 19th century in Mito, once the seat of a branch of the Tokugawa Shogunate. Although it once nearly disappeared, the practice was recently recognized as an intangible cultural property of Mito. That designation came after the career shift of Yasuhara, a well-known local figure who has spent more than 30 years in Mito's nighttime economy. PARTY GAMES On a warm evening in mid-May, four female dancers led by Yasuhara took to the ozashiki room of a ryotei restaurant in Mito's Daikumachi nightlife district. Clad in formal kimono despite unseasonable heat, she danced with grace and charm, later switching to the samisen to lead party games. 'Even in this heat, you have to wear a lined kimono in May. It's tradition,' Yasuhara, 61, said, chuckling. 'The young girls probably think I'm a nag, but someone's gotta teach them.' NO. 1 HOSTESS Yasuhara entered the nightlife industry straight out of high school, working in bars and clubs that catered to local nuclear plant workers and young members of the Self-Defense Forces. At 23, she started working as a party hostess, a role similar to that of a geisha but typically without the traditional performances or kimono. She thrived during the economic boom in the late 1980s, often attending three parties a night. 'I could be No. 1 as a party hostess,' she said. 'It was my calling.' By 29, she had gone independent. At her peak, she managed a party hostess team of more than 60 staff members. However, traditional restaurant parties disappeared in Mito after the economic bubble burst. Demand for party hostesses declined further as customers shifted toward modern hostess clubs. Similarly, geisha numbers shrank in the city. In the 1980s, Mito had more than 90 geisha, but by the 2000s, only two remained. REVIVAL AND SURVIVAL To protect the endangered tradition of geisha performance, Yasuhara founded a local group in 2010 where geisha provide formal training in dance and samisen. Holding an instructor's license in traditional Japanese dance, Yasuhara believed she could help preserve the tradition by performing it herself. 'As I approached 40, continuing as a party hostess became more difficult,' she said. 'Reviving ozashiki culture was both a personal goal and a means of survival.' At first, Yasuhara and her colleagues were called to parties only to pour drinks, not to perform. Undeterred, they went on to perform at popular local festivals across Ibaraki Prefecture. Despite disruptions caused by the COVID-19 pandemic, the group continued to host monthly performances in private venues, gradually building public interest. With Mito's formal recognition of the tradition this year, Yasuhara sees new possibilities. 'It's more responsibility now that we're recognized,' she said with a laugh. 'But it also opens more doors.' She hopes to introduce ozashiki dance to younger generations through school festivals and promote cultural tourism. 'This is a tradition passed down in the land of the Tokugawa,' she said. 'We can't afford to lose it.'


Asahi Shimbun
14-05-2025
- Entertainment
- Asahi Shimbun
VOX POPULI: East and West converged in the life of Hana Glover Bennett
The former residence of Thomas Blake Glover in the Glover Garden in Nagasaki in October 2024 (Asahi Shimbun file photo) This is the story of a remarkable woman. Hana Glover Bennett was born in Nagasaki in 1876, at the dawn of the Meiji Era (1868-1912). Her father, Thomas Blake Glover (1838-1911), was a Scottish merchant who played a pivotal role in Japan's modernization during the final years of the Tokugawa Shogunate and the early Meiji Era. His former home, known as Glover House, still stands in Nagasaki. Hana's mother was his Japanese common-law wife, Tsuru. Lovingly raised in a cross-cultural household, Hana married a British merchant employed by a trading firm in Nagasaki. She was 21 at the time—shortly after the end of the First Sino-Japanese War (1894-1895). When her husband was later transferred to present-day Incheon, a key port city on the western coast of the Korean Peninsula, Hana accompanied him. She would spend the rest of her life in that distant land, as chronicled in 'The Glover Family' by Brian Burke-Gaffney. I first learned about Hana from Ikuko Toda, a 65-year-old writer and translator based in South Korea. Last month, I visited the Incheon Gwandong Gallery, a space for exhibitions and cultural exchange that she operates in Incheon. There, she showed me a collection of photographs left behind by the Glover family. Among them were rare and valuable images capturing the city as it appeared before Korea became a Japanese colony. One striking photograph depicts a mansion perched on a hill overlooking the port, once home to Hana and her family. The building, later destroyed during the Korean War (1950-1953), had stood amid blooming rose bushes. It was there that Hana and her husband raised four children. 'It was a time of great upheaval,' Toda reflected. 'Even those with wealth and privilege must have faced deep uncertainty about the future.' In one faded photograph, Hana appears in traditional Korean dress, seated atop a yellow cow, her gaze fixed intently on something beyond the frame. Her eyes are haunting—quiet yet piercing. In that bustling port city where the shadows of East Asian history converged, what occupied her thoughts? What did she feel? Sadly, almost none of her words have survived. A few years before Japan declared war on Britain in 1941, Hana passed away at the age of 61. She still rests in the foreign cemetery in Incheon. Amid the hush of surrounding greenery, her white tombstone bears a name—HANA—clearly etched into the stone. On a bright, clear day, the inscription stands out in sharp relief. —The Asahi Shimbun, May 14 * * * Vox Populi, Vox Dei is a popular daily column that takes up a wide range of topics, including culture, arts and social trends and developments. Written by veteran Asahi Shimbun writers, the column provides useful perspectives on and insights into contemporary Japan and its culture.


Metropolis Japan
07-05-2025
- Metropolis Japan
Finding Central Tokyo
Tokyo in the evening sun. Image credit: Gri-spb / i Stock Finding central Tokyo sounds easy, right? At first glance, finding a city's center seems simple. London calls its center 'central,' New York claims Manhattan, and Sydney points to Circular Quay. Most cities designate a central hub for business, commerce, and culture—often called the downtown or CBD. In Tokyo, however, the picture gets murkier. Locals, expats, and tourists can't agree on a single ward that defines Tokyo's center. Still, many argue over where it should be. The debate draws on location, history, and present-day relevance, with six wards in particular competing for the title of central Tokyo. Before it became Tokyo, people knew the city as Edo. Originally a small castle village on Japan's east coast, Edo gained prominence when the Tokugawa Shogunate established its seat of power there in 1603. By the 18th century, Edo had already grown into one of the world's largest metropolises. Samurai and nobles settled in Yamanote, but the city's heart beat in the shitamachi—or 'downtown'—where commoners lived. Narrow streets and dense populations defined the shitamachi, creating a vibrant, chaotic scene of Edo-era life. Merchants and artisans flocked to the area, navigating a grid of streets and an intricate canal system. Today, Taito Ward encompasses much of this historic area. A visit to the iconic Senso-Ji temple or a walk through Ueno's bustling streets can instantly transport visitors back to the heart of old Edo. The Kaminarimon, the outer of two large entrance gates, leading to the Senso-Ji temple. Image credit: coward_lion / iStock . When Japan's capital moved from Kyoto to Tokyo, officials established the Imperial Palace in the heart of the city—Chiyoda. Soon after, builders developed Marunouchi, just steps from the palace gardens, as Tokyo's central business district. With its grandeur and prestige, Marunouchi has played a vital role in driving Japan's economic growth and continues to serve as a cornerstone of Asia's financial sector. One crucial factor in the debate over Tokyo's center is the location of Tokyo Station, situated on Marunouchi's eastern edge. Since its opening in 1914, Tokyo Station has served as the main entry point for domestic travelers arriving in the capital. Planners deliberately positioned it to link Ueno and Nihonbashi through the city's most esteemed geographic and commercial hub. Boats and blossoming cherry trees in Kitamaru Park in Chiyoda. Image credit: idmanjoe / iStock. The name 'Chuo' directly translates to 'center,' and few can deny its relevance in the debate over Tokyo's core. Established in 1947 during Japan's post-WWII recovery, city planners created the ward to serve as a commercial hub and help rebuild Japan's economy. Chuo once housed the city's silver and gold coin-making mints and hosted Japan's first department store—the Nihombashi Mitsukoshi Main Store. Today, Chuo continues to thrive as a global shopping destination. The former gold mint now serves as the Bank of Japan's headquarters, and Ginza has evolved into a luxury retail district filled with department stores and designer boutiques. Interested to know the hidden side of Ginza? Read our guide for the neighborhood here. The busy shopping streets of Ginza. Image credit: Sean Pavone Photo / iStock. Major global companies like Apple, Goldman Sachs, and Baidu have chosen Roppongi for their Japan headquarters, solidifying Minato's role at the heart of Tokyo's international business scene. The ward also carries historic diplomatic weight. During the Edo period, regional daimyo (lords) built residences in the area, effectively creating early domain embassies. Over time, many of these residences transformed into foreign embassies, which explains why Minato now hosts a high concentration of consulates, including those of the U.S., Australia, and China. As the 20th century came to a close, major real estate developments accelerated Minato's growth. By the mid-2000s, its modern skyline embodied wealth, luxury, and Tokyo's forward-looking spirit. Today, Minato brims with fine dining, art galleries, and a dynamic nightlife. It also boasts Tokyo's tallest building, Azabudai Hills, alongside the iconic Tokyo Tower. Want to see the Tokyo Tower from all the best angles whilst catching up on some exercise? Head to our article about the cycling route that takes you on the Tokyo Tower Tour. The iconic Tokyo Tower lights up at night in Roppongi. Image credit: CreativeJP / iStock. Chiyoda may host the city's central station, but Shinjuku claims the title of busiest—not just in Japan, but in the world. Shinjuku Station moves an astounding 3.4 million passengers daily, operating 12 lines across 36 platforms. The station connects directly to nearly every major hub in Tokyo, making Shinjuku a vital gateway to the entire city. Supporters of Shinjuku argue that the ward has emerged in recent decades as Tokyo's true downtown. It offers a bit of everything—from the tranquility of Shinjuku Gyoen and the heritage of Hanazono Shrine to the vibrant queer culture of Nichome, one of the world's most densely concentrated LGBTQ+ districts. Head north and you'll step into Okubo, Tokyo's Koreatown, where kbbq restaurants, skincare shops, and K-pop clubs draw crowds day and night. Shinjuku's neon-lit high streets have come to symbolize Tokyo itself, and many consider a visit here essential to experiencing the city. The neon-lit crossing of Kabukicho in Shinjuku. Image credit: Urbanscape / iStock. Many holidaymakers choose to stay in Shibuya—and for good reason. Much of Tokyo's energy centers around this vibrant ward. While tourists flock to icons like Hachiko, Shibuya Crossing, and the colorful streets of Harajuku, Shibuya offers far more than its famous landmarks. It operates like a city within a city, with countless music venues, the open-air freedom of Yoyogi Park, and the culinary delights of Ebisu. Visitors could easily spend an entire week here without ever stepping outside the ward. On the commercial front, Shibuya overflows with shopping destinations and continues to grow as a business hub. Increasing numbers of companies—especially in tech and startups—have relocated their headquarters to the area, reinforcing its status as a center of innovation and commerce. The always busy Shibuya crossing. Image credit: Nuthawut Somsuk / iStock. Clearly, no single definition can pinpoint Tokyo's true city center. A salaryman working in Roppongi might see Minato as the core, while a tourist might argue for Shibuya. Chuo claims the center in a literal sense, but Chiyoda holds it in another. As the idea of a city center has evolved, so has Tokyo itself. After beginning as Edo, the city became Japan's capital in 1868. It endured near-total destruction during WWII, then rapidly rebuilt and expanded throughout the 20th century. By 2024, Tokyo had grown into a city of over 14 million residents and welcomed an additional 35 million tourists. This growth has created a sprawling, decentralized metropolis layered with history, industry, and culture. Rather than form around a single hub, Tokyo has adapted across centuries—reshaping and reinventing itself with each era. It lacks a definitive center not by accident, but by deliberate evolution.
Yahoo
03-03-2025
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
'Rise of the Ronin' (PS5/PC): Wandering the land of the samurai
Berlin (dpa) — The action role-playing game "Rise of the Ronin" takes players to Japan in the year 1853. After 250 years of rule by samurai warrior nobility, the Tokugawa Shogunate, the arrival of a US naval expedition heralds an era of change. Japan is slowly opening up to the Western world, but the profound changes are not without conflict. In the meantime, you slip into the role of a ronin, a wandering, masterless samurai warrior. The game begins with a look back at the tragic childhood of the nameless main character. After followers of the ruling Shogun have reduced a village to rubble, a pair of young twins are left orphaned. A few years later, you meet them again. Whether you play through "Rise of the Ronin" with a female or male main character is up to you. This is the first of many decisions that will have a significant impact on the course of the story. The gaming experience here is extremely individual to each player. You also have to make a choice between two rival factions: Should it be the traditional Shogunate supporters who want to preserve the old order? Or the reform-oriented forces fighting for the opening of Japan? The contrast between tradition and modernity is reflected in the gameplay. Fighting takes place with both swords and modern firearms. Players can customise their equipment, develop skills, and adjust the general level of difficulty over three levels whenever they want. The action role-playing game presents three open and detailed game worlds, namely Edo (now Tokyo), Kyoto and Yokohama, each with its surrounding area. Narrow streets, historical sites, blossoming cherry orchards and vast landscapes await. Many secrets and side activities await in the atmospherically dense backdrops. If you don't want to roam alone in the approximately 40-hour story, you can get support in co-op mode. There, numerous missions can be completed in pairs and valuable rewards can be fought for together. "Rise of the Ronin" is available for the PlayStation 5 and PCs and costs around €50/$50. The age rating is 18 years.