Latest news with #Tokyo-Neapolitan
Straits Times
07-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Straits Times
Pizzapalooza – go on an artisanal pizza tour in Singapore
(Clockwise from left) Roberta's Bee Sting pizza, the Tamaki pizza from Pizza Studio Tamaki Singapore, and J-Dog pizza from Blue Label Pizza & Wine. PHOTOS: ROBERTA'S, PIZZA STUDIO TAMAKI SINGAPORE, BLUE LABEL PIZZA & WINE SINGAPORE – Thin crust, thick crust, crunchy crust, thin and crunchy crust. Classic toppings, luxe toppings, out-there toppings. Classic Neapolitan, contemporary Neapolitan, Tokyo-Neapolitan, New York, San Francisco sourdough. There is an artisanal pizza for every palate in Singapore. In recent years, big brands from overseas have opened here , many using the city as a springboard to proliferate in Asia. Home-grown brands have not been slouching either – they have upped their game by focusing on their dough and coming up with pies topped with South-east Asian flavours. Before there were artisanal pies, pizza came from big American chains. Then, in December 2010, Osteria and Pizzeria Mozza opened at Marina Bay Sands. American chef Nancy Silverton brought in her artisanal pizza and ushered in the golden age of artisanal pizza here. Today, her pizza can be had at Osteria Mozza at Hilton Singapore Orchard. She founded La Brea Bakery in Los Angeles in the late 1980s, and brings a bread baker's sensibility to her pizza dough. Her pie has a distinct puffy rim and is different from a Neapolitan pizza in that it is an even golden brown, not spotted with char. The crumb is airy; and the pizza is not wet and not supposed to flop over when diners pick up a slice. Diners and purveyors started bandying about terms like hydration, which refers to the percentage of water in the dough relative to the weight of flour; cornicione, the puffy rim of a pizza; and starter, preferment and sourdough, which some pizza-makers use alongside or instead of commercial yeast. In 2024, more heavy hitters began to open in Singapore. There was Il Clay Supper Club by Naples-born Ciro Sorrentino, who owns pizza restaurants in Italy and Vietnam; L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele, a brand from Naples with a history that goes back more than 150 years; Italian chef Massimo Bottura's Torno Subito in Dempsey; Fortuna, a buzzy brand from Sydney; and Beyond The Dough, with Japanese pizzaiolo Eddie Murakami slinging pies in the Tokyo-Neapolitan style. So far, in 2025, there have been Vincenzo Capuano Singapore, serving the social media star's contemporary Neapolitan pizza; and Pizza Studio Tamaki, whose founder Tsubasa Tamaki pioneered the Tokyo-Napoli style. Chef Antonio Miscellaneo, 52, of La Bottega Enoteca, says: 'I did think that at some point, pizza would reach the level that we have in Europe. But I didn't think it would ramp up so fast.' Chef Travis Masiero, 45, who owns Blue Label Pizza & Wine, says: 'I'm always interested in others coming into the market. Now, we are seeing the invasion of Neapolitan and Japanese pizza. The more, the merrier.' But chef Miscellaneo has some sobering words for those wanting to enter the arena. He says: 'Whoever wants to open a pizza place here must do something different. They must have a passion for pizza or they are bringing in a different style of pizza. If you are doing more of the same, it's a lottery.' Newpolitan La Bottega Enoteca Where: 346 Joo Chiat Road Open: 11.30am to 3pm (Fridays to Sundays), 5.30 to 10.30pm (Sundays to Thursdays), 5.30 to 11pm (Fridays and Saturdays) Info: WhatsApp 9071-8400 or go to Chef Antonio Miscellaneo and his wife Jasmine (in a 2021 photo) at La Bottega Enoteca with his Newpolitan pizza. PHOTO: ST FILE For a spell, the best pizza in Singapore came out of an oven parked on the balcony of a condominium in East Coast. That was when former software engineer Antonio Miscellaneo was running his private-dining business, Casa Nostra, and turning out pizzas in his Newpolitan style. It started in 2018, and word spread fast among the foodie set, who begged and stalked him for reservations. Now, they simply make a booking at his restaurant, La Bottega Enoteca, which opened in 2021. There is also a more casual pizza and pasta restaurant, Casa Vostra, at Raffles City. The 52-year-old calls his pizza Newpolitan style. Where a classic Neapolitan pizza might have a hydration level that ranges from 55 to 65 per cent, and the dough is made and used the same day, his dough has a hydration level of 70 to 80 per cent and is fermented for 48 hours. He says: 'The dough is lighter and more digestible because the process of long fermentation creates enzyme activity. When you eat a pizza and you feel thirsty after and can't sleep, that's because the fermentation wasn't done in the right way.' Even the cooking method is different. The two electric Moretti ovens in the restaurant are set to two different temperatures: 450 deg C and 250 deg C. The Newpolitan pizzas go into the hotter oven for about 90 seconds and are then placed in the cooler one for 60 seconds. 'This makes sure all our pizzas are fully cooked,' he says. 'When you eat a pizza that still has moisture inside, it will feel doughy and heavy. Our method drives the moisture out of the pizza.' The flour he uses for the dough is from Molino Casillo in Puglia, and includes the wheat germ. It comes to Singapore vacuum-packed with those enzymes still preserved, he adds. They work to break down proteins and starches, making the dough more digestible. The Newpolitan pies are priced from $45 for a Burrata one, and he also offers diners the option of getting a whole pizza with two different flavours, so they can try more. Chef Miscellaneo calls his restaurant the 'Disneyland of pizza' because he offers different styles. There is also the Roman-style Double Crunch, made with a wetter dough and crisp the way Romans like it. These are priced from $24 for a Caprese sandwich with burrata, pesto, Sicilian Datterino tomatoes and Parmigiano Reggiano cheese. There is also La Foccacia di Recco (from $52), an unleavened flatbread he likens to Italian prata, and he will be introducing Padellino, a type of pan pizza he likens to ciabatta. These are topped after the pizza comes out of the oven, and he is looking at gourmet toppings such as gambero rosso or red prawns, carpaccio and vitello tonnato (veal with tuna sauce). Naturally leavened Chooby Pizza Where: 127 Owen Road Open: 6 to 10pm (Wednesdays to Fridays, by reservations only) Info: Call 8923-9814 or go to Spiced Coconut Chicken pizza from Chooby Pizza. PHOTO: CHOOBY PIZZA No commercial yeast goes into the dough at Chooby Pizza. Owner Mason Lim, 33, has developed a way to turn out consistently good pizza dough since he started the business in 2020. That was when Singapore was at a standstill because of the Covid-19 pandemic. He had just got a Roccbox oven from Gozney, a British brand, and decided to sell pizza for takeout, since there was no dining-in at restaurants. His pizzas have what he describes as a soft and flavourful dough, lightly crisp and a 'nice char on the crust'. The hydration level is between 72.5 and 75 per cent, and he uses finely milled Type 00 flour from Naples and a starter made with that flour and water. The dough is fermented for six to eight hours at room temperature. It is c ooked for two to 2½ minutes at 420 to 450 deg C. He says: 'I focus very much on the pizza doug h and hope that diners agree Chooby stands out for this. Dealing with live yeast and bacteria without using any commercial yeast is tricky as there are many factors that will affect the fermentation activity. 'Even when using the same type of flour with the same recipe, the dough will turn out different from day to day, and it does take some experience and knowledge to be able to manage it to achieve the desired result.' Prices start at $16 for a Margherita, that classic pie topped with San Marzano tomatoes, fior di latte and pecorino cheeses, basil and olive oil. This, together with Spiced Coconut Chicken ($18.50), topped with tom kha sauce, chicken thigh, mushroom, onion, coriander and chilli oil, are the bestsellers. The focus on the crust has paid off. He says: 'I've noticed more diners finishing the entire pizza without ditching the crust.' Sourdough pan pizza Goldenroy Sourdough Pizza Where: 125 Desker Road Open: Noon to 10pm (Tuesdays to Sundays), closed on Mondays Info: Pepperoni pizza from Goldenroy. PHOTO: GOLDENROY While working on his doctorate in chemistry at Stanford University, Goldenroy owner Roy Chan, 38, would head from Palo Alto to San Francisco in search of good food. He was drawn to Golden Boy Pizza, which always had a long queue. So enamoured was he of the thick and fluffy crust with a very crispy base that he developed his own pizza dough, starting in 2013, his first year in California. He uses a sourdough starter that is more than 100 years old and came from a bakery in the Bay Area. 'This special starter imparts a fragrant richness to the dough that I don't get with the other sourdough starters I've tried,' he says. Goldenroy started in 2020, and he sold his pizzas at East Village mall for takeout. Now, he has a 38-seat restaurant in Desker Road. Some 90 per cent of his business is takeout, although he says the pies are best when served right out of the oven. The square 25cm x 25cm pizzas are good for two people. Among the bestsellers are pies topped with seafood, including Kryptonite ($29), with clams and garlic; and Spongebob's Revenge ($34), with browned butter, scallops and onions. The flour is an unbleached variety from the US, and he ferments the dough, which has 60 per cent hydration, for 48 hours. The pizzas are cooked in a pan with olive oil in an electric oven at 250 deg C 'until the crust is golden'. He says: 'When fresh out of the oven, it has a very crispy bottom. It is an American-style pizza meant to be eaten straight from the box with your hands, not with fork and knife. 'Our pizzas are hand-stretched and baked in a pan of olive oil. This style is highly popular in the US, but in Singapore, we're the only ones serving it.' New Haven-New York hybrid Blue Label Pizza & Wine Where: 28 Ann Siang Road and 03-02 Mandarin Gallery, 333A Orchard Road Open: Noon to 11pm daily Info: Blue Label Pizza & Wine's The Travis Supreme pizza. PHOTO: BLUE LABEL PIZZA & WINE What chef and restaurateur Travis Masiero was trying to create with Blue Label was a pizza dough that lived in his mind. The 45-year-old American, who also owns Luke's Oyster Bar & Chop House in Gemmill Lane and Nixta in Amoy Street, says: 'I wanted to find the ideal combination of a crust that had the flavour and chew of a long fermented New York pizza dough with the crispness and 'charability' of a New Haven-style pizza, topped with high-quality, inventive ingredients.' He opened Blue Label in Ann Siang Road in 2017, and a second outlet at Mandarin Gallery in 2019. The pies are priced from $35, and options include The Travis Supreme ($39), topped with ground beef, sesame on the crust and cheddar-bacon melt; J-Dog ($42), topped with pork sausage, bacon, pepperoni, capers, jalapeno and red sauce; and Wish I Was A Baller ($42), topped with sliced steak, French's mustard, bechamel sauce, roasted onions, mushrooms and provolone cheese. He says: 'We make a hybrid style of pizza that is more gourmet and cheffy. We have our fans, people who appreciate this style.' The dough, made using a sourdough starter, has a hydration level of 64 per cent and is fermented for 72 hours. Blue Label uses an electric oven from Bakers Pride Oven Company in the US, popular in New York for making pizza. The pies are cooked at 325 deg C for six to eight minutes. 'We want to create pizzas that are flavourful and craveable,' chef Masiero says. 'I don't have a pizza background, so for me, it's about flavour. I'm not restrained by any pizza dogma.' New York Neapolitan Roberta's Where: B1-45/46 The Shoppes at Marina Bay Sands, 2 Bayfront Avenue ; 01-04 Mandai Wildlife Reserve, 80 Mandai Lake Road Open: MBS – 11.30am to 11pm (weekdays), 11am to 11pm (weekends); Mandai – 11am to 10pm daily Info: Roberta's Bee Sting pizza. PHOTO: ROBERTA'S To make Roberta's pizza in Singapore taste like Roberta's pizza in Brooklyn, chef and co-owner Carlo Mirarchi had to make some changes to the dough, mostly to address the high humidity here. Speaking to The Straits Times at Roberta's new 103-seat restaurant at Mandai Wildlife Reserve, the 44-year-old says: 'If you come here with a hardcore mindset, you're going to have issues.' He made changes to the hydration level an d the f lour ratio, and made oven temperature tweaks too. Roberta's style of pizza, he adds, is close to the classic Neapolitan style. The hydration ranges from 65 to 72 per cent, and the dough is fermented for 72 hours. He uses a sourdough starter that is more than a decade old. The pies are baked for about two minutes at about 425 deg C, in a wood-fired Pavesi oven from Modena that is fuelled by pecan, apple and redwood. He says of the texture: 'It is relatively airy, with a slight chew and some crispness. There is a much greater undercarriage. When you hold it up, it doesn't flop over.' That last bit, he adds, assumes diners dive in the minute the pizza lands on their table. Roberta's, which opened its first restaurant in Brooklyn in 2008, gained traction for its wood-fired pizza. It opened its first Singapore restaurant at Marina Bay Sands in 2022, and is on a tear in 2025. Aside from the Mandai restaurant, which opened on April 30, it has also opened R Slice, offering takeaway pizza by the slice at Paragon mall. Its pies are priced from $26 for a Margherita, and bestsellers in Singapore include the Bee Sting ($30), topped with tomato, mozzarella, basil, spicy Calabrese salami, chilli and honey. At Mandai, there is Speckenwolf ($30), topped with mozzarella, prosciutto, mushrooms, red onions and oregano. Chef Mirarchi says of diners here: 'People are highly critical, but not in a bad way. They are not passive consumers.' Neapolitan with a twist Fortuna Where: 7 Craig Road Open: Noon to 3pm, 5.30 to 9.30pm (Sundays to Thursdays); noon to 3pm, 5.30 to 11pm (Fridays and Saturdays) Info: A selection of pizzas from Fortuna. PHOTO: FORTUNA At Fortuna, that buzzy, perpetually packed Italian restaurant in Tanjong Pagar, some of its pizzas come extra crisp. That is because the base is fried 'gently', says founder Egon Marzaioli, 32, and then baked. The toppings go on after the bases come out of the oven. He says of the extra step: 'That gives it an extra crisp snap without losing that airy softness inside. It's a balance of texture that elevates every bite.' These pizzas are priced from $35 for Sundays At Angela with San Marzano tomatoes, anchovies, breadcrumbs, lemon zest and oregano; to $45 for King Mazzara, topped with stracciata cheese, red prawns, semi-dried tomatoes, pesto and lemon zest. The brand, which chef Marzaioli started with two friends in Sydney in 2021, came to Singapore in 2024. Fortuna's classic pizza selection is priced from $24, for a small pizza yielding four slices of Queen Margherita. It also has a list of special pies, including Singapore Tribute (from $35), topped with San Marzano tomatoes, chilli crab sauce, crabmeat, lemon zest, parsley, fior di latte cheese and chilli oil. The dough, says the Naples-born chef, is made with flour from Molino Casillo, with 75 per cent hydration. It is fermented for 50 hours and cooked for 60 to 90 seconds at 430 to 480 deg C in a Valoriani oven from Tuscany. He says: 'The wood fire imparts a unique smoky flavour and perfect charring, creating a crust that's crisp yet tender – a hallmark of authentic, high-quality pizza.' Wagon wheel pizza L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele Where: 01-08 Mercure Icon Singapore City Centre, 8 Club Street Open: Noon to 3pm, 6 to 11pm (Mondays to Saturdays); noon to 3pm, 6 to 10pm (Sundays) Info: Call 9823-5724 or go to Da Michele's wagon wheel pizzas. PHOTO: L'ANTICA PIZZERIA DA MICHELE The pizzas at L'Antica Pizzeria Da Michele cannot be contained by the plates they are served on. Clocking in at 35 to 40cm, they are as big as their nickname, pizza a ruota di carro' or wagon wheel pizza. It comes from stretching the dough really thin, and there is a practical reason for this. Mr Marcello Mazzotta, 38, director and co-owner of Da Michele in Singapore, says: 'This style is a nod to the old-school pizzaioli in Naples, who would stretch the dough to be as big as possible to show generosity and feed hungry customers at an affordable price. 'It became a symbol of authentic, traditional and humble Neapolitan pizza-making.' The brand has a history that goes back to 1870 in Naples and is run by the Condurro family. The style is classic Neapolitan and, for decades, it served only two kinds of pizza – Marinara, topped with tomato sauce, garlic and oregano; and Margherita, topped with tomato sauce, Pecorino Romano and fior di latte cheeses, and fresh basil. The brand was famously featured in the 2010 movie Eat Pray Love, starring American actress Julia Roberts. Today, there are more than 50 Da Michele restaurants in the US, Britain, Spain, Switzerland, Germany, the United Arab Emirates and Japan, among other countries. The 120-seat one in Singapore opened in 2024 and was the first in Asia Pacific. A Da Michele will open in Bangkok later in 2025 at Siam Paragon mall. Mr Mazzotta says the dough is made with Caputo flour from Italy, with fresh brewer's yeast and 60 to 65 per cent hydration. It is fermented for 24 to 48 hours and cooked in a Stefano Ferrara oven at 480 to 500 deg C for 45 seconds. Pies are priced from $22 for a Marinara to $42 for a Burrata & Capocollo, topped with fior di latte cheese, black olives, sundried tomatoes, pecorino cheese, burrata and capocollo or dried cured pork neck. He adds: 'The uniqueness of the pizzas comes not from complexity but from purity, discipline and tradition. Every step and ingredient is essential to preserving the Neapolitan pizza heritage, and this minimalist approach is what makes our pizza world-renowned. 'We don't do experimentation and our chefs are trained to keep every pizza consistent.' Contemporary Neapolitan Vincenzo Capuano Singapore Where: 01-12 The Pier at Robertson, 80 Mohamed Sultan Road Open: Noon to 3pm, 6 to 11pm daily Info: One of the newest players in the artisanal pizza scene here is firmly rooted in Naples, but pizzaiolo Vincenzo Capuano's pies have a contemporary edge to them. The 35-year-old founder of the brand followed in his father and grandfather's footsteps. But where they relied on instinct and feel, he goes with precision. His pizza dough is made with a special blend of flour from Caputo called Nuvola Super, named for the cloud-like texture he wants to achieve. Chef Vincenzo Capuano with his Provola e Pepe pizza. ST PHOTO: LIM YAOHUI He uses a preferment, a mix of flour, water and yeast that sits for 24 hours before being used, and an almost soupy dough with 80 per cent hydration. That ferments for 36 hours. The pizzas are cooked for about 120 seconds in a gas-powered oven that goes up to 480 deg C. The result, when done right, is a very puffy cornicione or rim, and diners can cut into the pizza with a pair of gold scissors placed on every table, to admire the air pockets in the dough. Chef Capuano has more than 30 restaurants – in Italy, the Netherlands, Germany and Kosovo. The 150-seat restaurant in Robertson Quay opened in May. Pizza options include Provola e Pepe ($28), topped with smoked provolone, pepper, hand-crushed tomatoes, roasted cherry tomatoes, basil and extra virgin olive oil; Don Vincenzo ($30), its crust stuffed with ricotta cheese, and the pie topped with yellow cherry tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, pecorino flakes, pepper, crumbled almonds and basil; and Bellaria ($32), topped with Datterino tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, Parma ham and pesto. He says: 'My pizza comes from a family tradition, refined through years of study. The dough is light and digestible, and the contemporary style bridges respect for Naples with the desire to innovate.' Tokyo-Napoli style Pizza Studio Tamaki (opens on June 10) Where: 38 Tanjong Pagar Road Open: 11am to 3pm, 5 to 11pm ( weekdays); 11am to 3pm, 5pm to midnight (weekends ) Info: @ on Instagram Pizza Studio Tamaki founder Tsubasa Tamaki with his pizza dough. ST PHOTO: LIM YAOHUI Singapore fans of Tokyo's Pizza Studio Tamaki need not fly to the Japanese capital for its Tokyo-Napoli-style pizza. J.A.P Dining Concepts, which runs Okinawan steakhouse Yappari Steak at VivoCity and Northpoint City, has partnered chef Tsubasa Tamaki to open Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) in Singapore. The 45-year-old, originally from Okinawa, trained with master pizzaiolo Susumu Kakinuma at Savoy, the pioneer of artisanal pizza in Japan. Chef Tamaki went on to launch Pizza Strada in Tokyo in 2011, but parted ways with his investors because their visions were not aligned. He started PST in 2017. He has two restaurants in Tokyo, one in Okinawa and another in Bangkok. The 72- seat Singapore one opens in Tanjong Pagar on June 10. Chef Tamaki came up with his light dough at Savoy because, he says, he wanted diners to be able to eat more than one pizza each. It is made with a special blend of flour, using Canadian and American wheat, that a Japanese mill makes for him. It is a little brown because he keeps some of the bran on the grain for nutrition. The dough has a hydration level of about 60 per cent and is fermented for over 30 hours. The pizzas cook in a Stefano Ferrara oven, which goes up to 500 deg C. It is wood-fired, powered by oak, cherry and beech. Tomato-based pies are in there for 70 seconds, while white-sauce pies get 60 seconds. PST's pizza have a special touch – the pizzaiolo throws Okinawan salt on the floor of the oven before sliding the pie in, to season the crust. Arrabbiata pizza at Pizza Studio Tamaki Singapore. PHOTO: PIZZA STUDIO TAMAKI SINGAPORE Options include Marinara ($24), topped with tomato sauce, garlic, oregano and basil; and Special Bianca ($39), topped with burrata, buffalo mozzarella and mascarpone cheese, and truffle oil. Other signatures include Bismarck ($32), topped with mozzarella, mushrooms, pork sausage, pecorino romano cheese and a Japanese egg. The chef's favourite is Arrabbiata ($30), topped with tomato sauce, mozzarella, cherry tomatoes, nduja sauce, garlic, parsley and black pepper. Tan Hsueh Yun is senior food correspondent at The Straits Times. She covers all aspects of the food and beverage scene in Singapore. Check out ST's Food Guide for the latest foodie recommendations in Singapore.
Time Out
07-06-2025
- Entertainment
- Time Out
Pizza Studio Tamaki Review: Tokyo's cult-favourite pizzeria opens in Singapore on June 10
It's days before the opening of Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST), and we're sitting in its first Singapore outlet in Tanjong Pagar. The Tokyo-based pizzeria takes over the spot that used to house cocktail bar Tippling Club, and apart from doing away with the hanging glass bottle display that used to dangle across the bar counter, all other fixtures remain pretty much the same. The first thing we hear is that since PST Singapore opened reservations to the public recently, it's already seen a jaw-dropping 2,000 tables booked, even before the official launch on June 10. We do our homework before visiting, and that's how we find out about the brand's seriously studded rep – it's been given stamps of approval by Michelin, 50 Top Pizza, and has even hosted the likes of Jeff Bezos and Justin Bieber when they visited Japan. So, will these famed Tokyo-Neapolitan slices live up to the hype? First, a glance at the menu. There are around 12 pizzas categorised as either tomato or cheese-based, over 10 appetisers, desserts, coffee, and several cocktails crafted by Bar on 38 – another famous pizza joint in Mandarin Oriental Tokyo. While it's not master pizzaiolo Tsubasa Tamaki who'll be firing up slices over at the Singapore branch, he's left the job to his trusted protégé, Ryosuke Tanahara, who's trained under him for close to three years, and can replicate his elusive dough recipe to a tee. Speaking of dough, PST employs a highly specific formula developed by Tamaki himself, using a proprietary blend of Canadian and American wheat flour milled in Japan. The dough is lightly fermented for 30 hours – unlike the 48-to-72-hour proofing periods commonly seen in other Italian restaurants – so it achieves a light, fluffy texture which pulls apart almost like mochi. We sink our teeth into the Tamaki pizza ($29), a 12-inch classic topped with Datterini tomatoes, fresh smoked mozzarella, pecorino romano, and fresh basil. Despite being the most simply constructed of the pizzas we'll be trying, it's easily our favourite. The waiter gives us a much-needed tip: gently press down on the cherry tomatoes before eating. Doing so releases a fresh, fragrant waft of sweetness that greatly adds to the experience. But what's arguably better is the fine dusting of salt that we can distinctly taste on the crust. It turns out that the base of the woodfire oven is lightly seasoned with Okinawan salt for an added layer of umami. And if you prefer less char or salt on your pizzas, customisations are more than welcome. The Bismarck ($32) that arrives soon after falls a tad short of expectations, with the Hinata egg cracked in the middle reaching us slightly underdone, but the spicy Arrabbiata ($30) quickly makes up for it. It's got the same Datterini tomatoes, pork nduja, Aomori garlic, and calabria (chilli flakes) that are slow-dried in-house. Being the spice-lovers that we are, we're glad to say this packs a punch. The 5 Formaggi ($34) is equally well done, with a medley of smoked mozzarella, gorgonzola, taleggio, grana padano and mascarpone. The best part, though, is that the acacia honey, which at this point should be known as a mandatory pairing with cheese pizza, comes at no extra charge. We also try several appetisers, from caramelised pumpkins with a balsamic reduction ($16) to Angus beef and pork meatballs in tomato sauce ($18) – all of which are decent but otherwise unmemorable. If you find yourself in the good graces of the reservation system and manage to snag a table, we'd say splash out on the pizzas instead. After all, there are 12 on the menu to sample, with nothing crossing the $40 mark.
Tatler Asia
30-05-2025
- General
- Tatler Asia
The Great Debate: pineapples on pizza and how a fruit sparked a culinary civil war
Above AI-generated image of Clemens Wilmenrod's Toast Hawaii (Photo: Gemini) Of course, like all good origin stories, this Hawaiian pizza is highly contested. Food historians have unearthed evidence suggesting Panopoulos may not have been the sole pioneer. In Germany, TV cook Clemens Wilmenrod popularised the Toast Hawaii, an open-faced sandwich topped with ham, cheese, and pineapple, in 1955, seven years before Panopoulos'. Even the use of the moniker Hawaiian pizza was subjected to debate, where a Hawaiian pizza was discovered in Portland, Oregon, as early as 1957, albeit the pie excluded ham. While Panopoulos's name may be the most recognisable, the existence of these precursors suggests the world was, perhaps unconsciously, preparing itself for an impending sweet and savoury revolution. The science behind the scandal and why it works (or not) Above AI-generated image of a scientist examining a Hawaiian pizza under the microscope (Photo: Gemini) One should peek into the microscope to understand why adding pineapples to pizza generates such visceral reactions. The tropical fruit's distinctive character is derived from a complex combination of flavour compounds: citric acid providing tartness, fruity esters contributing sweetness, vanillin lending vanilla notes, and even eugenol, which lends that inimitable clove-like warmth to taste. When these compounds meet pizza's usual suspects, the flavour contrast is reinforced. Think acid cutting through the richness of melted cheese, sweetness countering the savouriness of tomato sauce and salty ham, and when properly caramelised by the fierce oven heat, introducing the complex Maillard element into every bite. In case you missed it: Beyond the Dough's Eddie Murakami on what makes their viral Tokyo-Neapolitan pizzas unique Above Diego Vitagliano is the chef-owner of 10 Diego Vitagliano in Naples, Italy (Photo: Alessandra Farinelli) Above Antonio Miscellaneo is the Italian chef-owner of pizzerias La Bottega Enoteca and Casa Vostra in Singapore (Photo: Casa Vostra) The real war, however, isn't fought in laboratories but in the arena of cultural identity; tradition versus innovation. For Italian pizza purists, pineapple represents nothing short of a culinary abomination. 'From a classic Italian point of view, pineapple, ham and tomato are a big no, not just on pizza, but also as an isolated combination,' asserts Antonio Miscellaneo, the Italian chef-owner of pizzerias La Bottega Enoteca and Casa Vostra in Singapore. 'In Italy, we would not adulterate the taste of tomato as we prefer flavours to remain pure and simple. On top of that, I don't enjoy fruit on pizza, as I find sweet elements out of place—unless, of course, if it's a dessert pizza.' Diego Vitagliano, the chef-owner of 10 Diego Vitagliano in Naples, Italy, and the world's number one Pizzaiolo chef (conferred by 50 Top Pizza World 2023), echoes this sentiment: 'We think about wild garlic, cheeses from the Lattari Mountains, or San Marzano tomatoes, long before we think about pineapples. I take inspiration from local ingredients to honour local producers and support the regional economy. By only using ingredients from Campania, I could express my identity and sense of belonging.' The fusion frontline of pizza provocateurs Above Mirko Febbrile is the chef-owner of Somma, a progressive Italian fine-dining restaurant in Singapore (Photo: Somma) Conversely, the Hawaiian pizza embodies everything exhilarating about culinary fusion. It represents the experimental spirit that drives gastronomy forward, the willingness to challenge convention, and the recognition that tradition, whilst venerable, need not be immutable. 'Sure, pineapples on pizza is not traditional, but neither was the Margherita in 1889. Taste evolves. Cultures collide. That's how cuisine moves forward,' declares Mirko Febbrile, chef-owner of Somma, a progressive Italian fine-dining restaurant in Singapore. 'I'm not here to gatekeep what people enjoy. I respect what it represents: freedom to taste, to question, to create. Differences are what make food (and life) interesting. So I say bring it on, let them eat pineapple. Just make sure the dough's fermented right.' In case you missed it: An Italian chef's food guide to Sicily, Italy Above Vincenzo Capuano is the chef-owner of Pizzeria Vincenzo Capuano along Mohamed Sultan Road (Photo: Pizzeria Vincenzo Capuano) Singapore's great migration of international pizza superstars ensues as May brings in the anticipated likes of 2022's World Champion of 'Contemporary Pizza' Vincenzo Capuano, who debuts Pizzeria Vincenzo Capuano along Mohamed Sultan Road; and Tsubasa Tamaki's Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza joint Pizza Studio Tamaki (PST) in Tanjong Pagar. We check in with both pizza stars. While Capuano has gained TikTok fame for his contemporary Neapolitan pizzas, which experiment with longer fermentations, lighter doughs, and creative toppings, he remains anchored in Naples tradition. 'Other than those with tourist-oriented menus, you won't find pineapples on pizza in classic Neapolitan pizzerias,' shares Capuano. 'I wouldn't put pineapple on a Neapolitan pizza, but I'm not against experimentation. Pizza is a universal language, and everyone has the right to express it in their own way. As long as it's done with passion and respect for the product, I'm open to new ideas.' Above Tsubasa Tamaki is the chef-owner of Tokyo-Neapolitan style pizza joint PST in Tanjong Pagar (Photo: Pizza Studio Tamaki) Above Eddie Murakami is the Japanese pizzaiolo behind popular pizzeria Beyond the Dough along Arab Street (Photo: Beyond the Dough) On the flipside, Tamaki champions pineapples on pizza with vim and vigour. The Okinawa-born chef is crafting a pineapple pizza for his June monthly special, utilising Okinawan pineapples known for their 'strong sweetness and balanced acidity, where some have a peach-like aroma, while others are bred to be easy to eat with little to no core'. While the new creation is only available at PST's Okinawan branch, Tamaki suggests pairing pineapple with spicy sausage or seasonal green chilli peppers for those keen. Echoing Tamaki's sentiment is former apprentice Eddie Murakami, a Japanese pizzaolo behind the popular Beyond the Dough along Arab Street. As a fan of sweet and savoury combinations, which make up the backbone of countless beloved dishes in Southeast Asia, Murakami hones in on his time spent in the United States, where he had fond memories of enjoying Hawaiian pizza regularly. 'It is such an appealing contrast,' he confesses. 'Pineapples on pizza tend to divide opinions, but that's why it makes it interesting.' Will there ever be a democratic verdict? Above The pineapple pizza phenomenon unites all in a passionate yet benign discourse () Perhaps the pith of the pineapple pizza phenomenon isn't all that divisive. It is a dish that humbles acclaimed chefs, street food vendors, and foodies to the same level of passionate yet benign discourse, reminding us that taste, ultimately, remains subjective. So, whether you're team pineapple or resolutely opposed, this contentious debate will likely continue stirring up controversy as long as it may. And in a world where we can all agree on so little, my discord wouldn't be about fruit on pizza, but perhaps whether I should ask for extra cheese.
