Latest news with #Traditionnelle
Forbes
01-07-2025
- Business
- Forbes
Daring Openworked Designs Shine At Watches And Wonders 2025
Three Vacheron Constantin 'Traditionnelle Openface' watches for its 270-year anniversary Vacheron Constantin At first glance, the terms 'skeletonized' and 'openworked' may seem interchangeable in watchmaking—but they reflect subtly different approaches to the art and craft of revealing a movement. Both techniques involve cutting away portions of the dial and movement to expose the mechanics within. Yet, while openworked watches offer glimpses through carefully carved-out sections, skeletonized timepieces go further—removing as much material as possible to create an intricate, transparent framework. This year at Watches and Wonders there were several examples of openworked watches on display providing visually compelling and mechanically daring designs. Here are a few standout examples. The prestigious Swiss watch brand celebrating its 270th anniversary unveiled three openworked watches in distinctive patterns based on the outline of the brand's Maltese cross logo. All three have 950 platinum cases, retrograde displays and each is released in a 370-piece limited edition. The cases feature the Traditionelle signatures such as stepped lugs, a fluted caseback and a slender bezel. Each dial has a railway-type minutes track, faceted Dauphine-style hands and the collection's applied gold baton hour-markers. Of course, all the timepieces and their complications are powered by in-house movements. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface timepiece Vacheron Constantin The Traditionnelle Perpetual Calendar Retrograde Date Openface with the openwork on the lower half of the dial features the new caliber 2460 QPR31/270 manual-wound movement equipped with two complications: The first is a perpetual calendar displaying the days, months and leap-year cycle requiring no correction until 2100. The moon phases at 6 o'clock tracks the moon's actual cycle of 29 days, 12 hours and 45 minutes. The realistically designed lunar surface display will need just one correction every 122 years. The second complication is a retrograde date display in the upper part of the dial. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface timepiece Vacheron Constantin The Traditionnelle Tourbillon Retrograde Date Openface watch is powered by the caliber 2162 R31/270, a 242-component manufacture movement with a 72-hour power reserve. It combines a tourbillon at 6 o'clock with a retrograde date whose workings can be seen through the upper part of the openworked dial. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface timepiece Vacheron Constantin The Traditionnelle Complete Calendar Openface is powered by the caliber 2460 QCL/270, with triple calendar indications – day of the week, date and month – and a precision moon-phase display that needs adjustment only once in 122 years. The openworked dial reveals part of the 312-component automatic movement. The date is displayed around the periphery of the dial using a blued hand, while the day and month are marked on sapphire discs contrasted with the blue background of the apertures. The Trilobe Une Folle Journée in blue Trilobe Trilobe Une Folle Journée This new watch sticks to the French watchmaker's vision of using three rotating rings to display the hours and seconds, but it is the first version of this model that provides an opening to the unique X-Centric caliber, which powers this eccentric display of time. The movement consists of 196 components including 33 rubies and has a 48-hour power reserve. The minute, hour and second rings are made of titanium coated with DLC in three colors: green, blue and black. The 40.5mm titanium case is fitted with a dome-shaped sapphire crystal that allows the three rings to fit into the case. The Hermès Arceau Le temps suspend watch with sunburst blue dial Hermès Hermès Arceau Le temps suspend A reinterpretation of the 2011 model, Arceau Le temps suspendu features a new aesthetic. Its slender 42 mm case frames an openworked dial reveals the exclusive 'Time suspended' module driven by a Manufacture Hermès H1837 movement visible through the transparent caseback. The white or rose gold cases are paired with three colors – sunburst blue, brun désert, rouge sellier – reaffirming the timeless nature of the line with its characteristic asymmetrical lugs crafted in the Hermès Horloger workshops. The Cyrus Genève Dominion timepiece in titanium Cyrus Genève Cyrus Dominion The Cyrus Genève 'Dominion' is a 42mm GMT watch collection with retrograde dual time function. It is available in a 5N rose gold case limited to 25 pieces and in a titanium case limited to 28 pieces. The openworked details are impressive. For example, the top level of the multi-layered dial display is crafted in the shape of a palm tree in 5N rose gold, emphasizing 'the motion of the movement's springs, wheels and gears,' the brand said. Further details include a galvanic treatment, matt rays with snailed-finish and microbeaded profiles. The hour and minute hands are openworked as well. In addition, the sapphire caseback reveals an openworked rotor with sunray finish. It is engraved with the motto 'The Conquest of Innovation' and Cyrus logo. The watch is driven by the in-house caliber CYR708 automatic movement with a 55-hour power reserve.
South China Morning Post
05-05-2025
- Business
- South China Morning Post
Style Edit: Vacheron Constantin marks its 270th anniversary with new Patrimony and Traditionnelle models, all with a Maltese cross motif on the dial and côte unique finishing
This year, Vacheron Constantin wowed visitors to Watches and Wonders in Geneva with a stunning booth dedicated to the storied maison's 270th anniversary. Central to the celebrations was the brand's emblem since 1880, the Maltese cross, which serves as the central design motif for a stellar line-up of anniversary releases across the collections. Vacheron Constantin Patrimony Moon Phase Retrograde Date. Photo: Handout 'These two collections epitomise the understated elegance of the watches created by Vacheron Constantin over the last 270 years,' says product and innovation director Sandrine Donguy. 'These classic collections are elevated by signature complications, including the retrograde date display; and subtle details, such as the Patrimony's domed dial and the Traditionnelle's fluted caseback. These unexpected twists give each piece a distinctive character, making it a natural decision to honour these timeless designs.' Advertisement All the latest anniversary additions to these two collections include a Maltese cross, uniquely designed for each dial and carefully placed to account for complication displays. Sapphire casebacks reveal 'côte unique' finishing, which was only rediscovered in 2021 while reproducing the Historiques American 1921. The brand's artisans spent more than 500 hours perfecting the technique, now on full display in this year's releases. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding. Photo: Handout 'We wanted the limited editions to illustrate the 270th anniversary with the movements as well as the dial,' says Donguy. 'The finish is both technical and decorative, with the bridges appearing to form a continuous and harmonious line. Perpetuating ancestral skills, preserving knowledge and passing it on are key values that define Vacheron Constantin 's history.' The Traditionnelle collection is known for combining exceptional technical standards and aesthetics, evoking Geneva's 18th century high horology, seen in details such as stepped lugs, fluted casebacks, slender bezels, a railway-type minutes track and dauphine-style hands. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Moon Phase. Photo: Handout This year, the collection sees two celebratory editions of the Manual-Winding and Moon Phase. The latter is presented in a stunning diamond-set pink gold 36mm case and is limited to 270 pieces, driven by the manufacture calibre 1410 AS/270 and showing time, power reserve indication, small seconds and moon phase on a mother-of-pearl dial. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding. Photo: Handout The Manual-Winding sees limited edition runs of 370 pieces each in 950 platinum and 18k 5N pink gold, both in a 38mm case and complete with the calibre 4400 AS/270; and a 270-piece run in a 33mm diamond-set pink gold version with the calibre 1440/270.
Wall Street Journal
08-04-2025
- Business
- Wall Street Journal
14 Exciting Timepieces From Watches and Wonders 2025
The watch world discovered new launches from more than 55 brands, including Chopard, Hublot and Rolex, at the annual Watches and Wonders fair last week in Geneva. During the five-day conference, Bell and Ross introduced the smallest and thinnest iteration of the everyday BR-05 watch yet, while Cartier unveiled a timepiece encrusted with over 1,000 diamonds. Some houses unveiled highly complicated watches, such as Panerai's Luminor Perpetual Calendar, or A. Lange & Söhne's new Minute Repeater Perpetual. Others released elegant watches that blended with jewelry, including Chanel's braided gold style and Bvlgari's white gold, snake-like bracelet. Below are 14 noteworthy releases. For its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin introduced a limited-edition Traditionnelle, only available in 370 pieces. The new 38mm manual-winding style is available exclusively in pink-gold and platinum finishes, with a geometric motif created specifically for the anniversary. Vacheron Constantin Traditionnelle Manual-Winding, $26,100. To celebrate the 20th anniversary of its flagship watch, the Big Bang, Hublot released a streamlined edition, rendered in the signature blend of titanium steel, fiberglass, rubber and ceramic. The newer, smaller face and thinner strap are complemented by a patterned dial and a touch of red. Hublot Big Bang 20th Anniversary Titanium Ceramic, $20,800 Chanel often uses signatures from its clothing and leather accessories in its watch designs. The Première Galon bracelet is a prime example, with a bangle bracelet made of 18-karat yellow gold in a twisted braid. Chanel Première Galon, $14,800 The Aeterna is a modern makeover of the iconic Serpenti, which dates back to 1948. It features a white-gold curve case, head and bezel set with round brilliant-cut diamonds, and a white-gold crown with diamonds. The green hands break up the icy effect. Bvlgari Serpenti Aeterna, $219,000. The beloved 1908 Rolex is now available with a seven-piece link bracelet called Settimo. Its 18-karat gold case and exceptionally bright white dial make it a modern take on minimalism. Rolex Perpetual 1908, $35,000. Bell & Ross watches are known for their precision. The redesigned BR-05 features a more compact 36mm case and a thickness of 8.5mm. Its sleek dial, luminous hands and automatic movement with a 54-hour power reserve combine functionality and style. Bell & Ross BR-05 36MM Black Steel, $4,300. The Reverso was first created for polo players. With a face that can be flipped to show a second side, the design was intended to protect the glass. The Reverso Tribute Geographic honors these roots, though the reverse dial now features a world-time indication. Only 150 of these limited-edition pink gold timepieces are available. Jaeger-LeCoultre Pink-Gold Reverso Tribute Geographic, $34,900. A testament to Panerai's philosophy of high complications, the Luminor Perpetual Calendar features a sapphire crystal dial, a dual-time GMT function and the in-house P.4100 movement—all while remaining user friendly. Panerai Luminor Perpetual Calendar GMT Platinumtech, $67,700. A. Lange & Söhne's new Minute Repeater Perpetual incorporates two sophisticated complications: a minute repeater and perpetual calendar. The timepiece, limited to only 50 pieces, also features an enamel dial crafted in-house, and a platinum case. A. Lange & Söhne Minute Repeater Perpetual, price upon request. The Piaget Polo 79 watch—featuring a 38mm rhodium-finished 18-karat white gold case, dial and bracelet—joins the yellow gold version presented last year at Watches and Wonders. Piaget's decorative edging and satin-finished elements are integrated into the case. Piaget Polo 79 Watch in White Gold, $82,500. The Calatrava collection, a timeless Patek Philippe style, now includes a new platinum model with a vintage touch. The polished case has a smooth, beveled bezel that transitions into a shiny chocolate-brown alligator leather strap. Patek Philippe Ref. 6196P, $47,130. The new Panthère timepiece combines watchmaking and jewelry, drawing from the brand's iconic history. The 'Toi & Moi' bracelet features the three-dimensional feline on one side, the delicate watch on the other and 1,103 brilliant-cut diamonds. Cartier Panthère Jewelry Watch, $206,000. Price subject to change. Chopard, for the first time, is adding a platinum style to its Alpine Eagle sports watch collection. This model features the ultrathin XP case and a slightly modified bracelet from previous models. The new timepiece boasts a dial with a blue gradient inspired by Alpine glaciers. Chopard Alpine Eagle 41 XP CS Platinum, $110,500. Initially released in 2016, this Frederique Constant timepiece was heralded as one of the most budget-friendly perpetual calendar watches available. Since its introduction, the style has been transformed with elevated exterior finishes and technical features, including a 40mm steel case and a three-day power reserve. Frederique Constant Classic Perpetual Calendar Manufacture, $9,995. Write to Rashad Minnick at
