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From Zurich to Locarno on the Treno Gottardo, an underrated trans-alpine train
From Zurich to Locarno on the Treno Gottardo, an underrated trans-alpine train

West Australian

time3 days ago

  • West Australian

From Zurich to Locarno on the Treno Gottardo, an underrated trans-alpine train

It doesn't take long for the urbanity of Zurich — neoclassical streets, medieval churches, modern apartments, graffiti-scrawled tunnels, tangles of railway tracks — to dissolve. Pretty soon we have postcard-perfect lakes, villages and mountains to admire. I usually read or work when I'm on a train, but that's rarely possible in Switzerland, a country with arguably the most scenic rail trips on earth. I'm heading south on the Treno Gottardo, which is relatively unknown compared to iconic Swiss trains like the Glacier Express. But I'm not complaining. It's a midweek afternoon during the onset of northern spring. Snow still showers many of the Swiss Alps, but there's greenery in abundance, boosted by the snow melt and sunshine, and I have the carriage mostly to myself, so I can sit back and soak up the loveliness from my window seat in relative peace and quiet. 'Danke,' says the ticket inspector, scanning my Swiss Travel Pass, an all-in-one ticket that allows unlimited rides on the country's trains, trams, buses and boats (it's available for 3, 4, 6, 8 or 15 consecutive days of travel and gives discounted fares for special mountain railways like the Jungfraubahn and Gornergrat Bahn). I'll use the pass again several times on my travels around Ticino, the Italian-speaking canton that I'm visiting for the week. Usually blessed with Switzerland's best weather, plus an assortment of super-pretty lakes, peaks and valleys, Ticino nestles on the other side of the St Gotthard Pass, a fearsome alpine pass rising 2106m above sea level. For centuries, it could only be crossed on foot (or by mule or horse-drawn carriage), but in the late 19th century Swiss engineers conjured the first, groundbreaking Gotthard Tunnel. Coursing 15km through the St Gotthard Massif at an altitude of around 1100m, it was the longest railway tunnel in the world when it opened in 1882 and remains a key part of Switzerland's rail infrastructure (and a link between northern and southern Europe). More than 2500 men toiled in its construction and it's estimated that around 200 lost their lives in the process. Working conditions were so bad at one point that the labourers downed tools and a vigilante group of volunteers were corralled to force an end to the strike. A Gotthard road tunnel opened in 1980, then another railway portal — the 57km Gotthard Base Tunnel — was unveiled in 2016, promising a quicker, flatter and straighter route at about a 500m lower elevation than the old tunnel. But after a freight train derailed in the new one in 2023, causing widespread damage to the tracks, it was closed for repairs for 13 months and during the interim, services were diverted to the trusty old tunnel. While I plan to return to Zurich later this week on a faster train zipping through the base tunnel, for this journey I'm happy to take the longer, slower route via the old one. The Treno Gottardo is about 90 minutes longer than the rapid trains, but it's worth your time (there are snack and beverage machines in the carriages if you get peckish or thirsty). One of the best and most surreal parts of the trip is when it ramps up to the original tunnel and navigates a series of loops in the canton of Uri, on the northern side of the alpine pass. If you look out of the window, you'll see the same baroque church — that of the Uri village of Wassen — from three different angles. Another thing I enjoy about this ride is the change from German-to-Italian-speaking Switzerland. Whereas on the north side of the tunnel, you'll hear mostly German and stop at stations with names like Schwyz, Brunnen, Altdorf, Erstfeld and Goschenen, it's a very different story and vibe south of the Gotthard. Greetings and farewells — 'Ciao, bella!', 'Ciao, ciao!' — begin to flutter through the carriage after we stop at Airolo. As the upcoming stations — Ambri-Piotta, Faido, Lavorgo — flicker on the digital screens, a conductor passes through the carriage. 'Grazie,' he says, eyeing my ticket as I see yet another palm tree out of my window. Just over an hour later, the train snakes by yachts gliding along Lake Maggiore, one of the ravishing bodies of water bordering southern Switzerland and northern Italy. The Treno Gottardo terminates in Locarno, a pretty resort town by the lake. I retrieve my luggage from the rack and check my phone as I alight the train and walk on the sun-splashed platform. In typical Swiss style, we're bang on time, three hours and 22 minutes after departing Zurich Hauptbahnhof. + Steve McKenna was a guest of Ticino Tourism and Switzerland Tourism. They have not influenced this story, or read it before publication. + The Treno Gottardo runs several times daily in both directions between Zurich and Locarno, with one-way fares from around 33CHF ($62). This train also has routes to Locarno from Basel and Lucerne. If you're looking to do lots of train travel in Switzerland, it may be worth purchasing the Swiss Travel Pass. It's priced from 244CHF ($466) in second class and 389CHF ($743) in first class for three days' travel, with better value the more days you purchase. For Swiss tickets and routes, see + For more information on planning a trip in Ticino and across Switzerland, see and .

Five train routes that highlight the beauty of Europe
Five train routes that highlight the beauty of Europe

The Star

time27-05-2025

  • The Star

Five train routes that highlight the beauty of Europe

Europe's railways have rarely inspired as much excitement as they have in recent years. Train companies, eager to capitalise on this newfound enthusiasm, have been racing to add new destinations, revive old ones or simply provide more seats on popular routes. Others have gone for luxury charters aimed at re-creating the opulence of train travel in the past. With travellers now spoiled, the selection below focuses on some constants: tried-and-tested routes that are easily accessible and offer the kind of beautiful scenery that has been a source of delight to travellers for decades, or even a century. Most of them run daily and come at no extravagant cost, yet still have special details that will make your journey comfortable, scenic and memorable. AUSTRIA Eurocity Transalpin The Transalpin from Zurich, Switzerland to Graz, Austria, is one of only a handful of trains with the Swiss Federal Railways' first-class panorama car. Its high, curved windows rise above the seats to reveal sweeping views of the Alps. In good weather, you can spend most of the nine-and-a-half-hour journey (it runs only during the day) gazing at a rolling landscape of mountains, meadows, clear lakes and peaceful villages. Crossing nearly all of Austria, the train stops at popular mountain resorts, which have increased their variety of year-round activities, like hiking, mountain biking, water sports and farm stays, to complement traditional winter sports. The dining car serves schnitzel, knodel (dumplings) and other local dishes with Austrian wines, and will deliver your meals to your seat in first class. There are breakfast options served with fluffy Kaiser rolls for a price, and a seasonal menu with vegan and vegetarian options. Graz, Austria's second largest city, has a pleasant historic quarter on the banks of the River Mur and is a good starting point for a Central European adventure, thanks to good onward connections to Vienna, Prague (Czech Republic), Budapest (Hungary) and beyond. Tickets from the Austrian Federal Railways start at €40 (RM193) in second class and €60 (RM290) in first. Look for train numbers EC163 or 164. You can also pay for buy a €3 (RM14.50) reservation, making sure to pick both the first-class and the panorama car options, to secure a seat with a view. Switzerland's Treno Gottardo is a direct service from Basel/Zurich to Locarno. — Schweizerische Sudostbahn website SWITZERLAND Treno Gottardo The Gotthard Railway, one of Switzerland's main Alpine gateways to Italy, combines dramatic views with spectacular engineering feats. To make the most of the scenery, board the Treno Gottardo, a direct service from Basel or Zurich to Locarno. The train travels through the original Gotthard Tunnel from 1882 at above 900m. It spends about 10 minutes in the tunnel, allowing travellers plenty of time to take in the views on either side. You may be tempted to stop and explore the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, at the southern end of the route, before heading on to Milan or Venice in Italy on direct trains. South of Lake Lucerne, the train climbs a series of bridges and spiral tunnels to reach snowy peaks before descending to Locarno on the palm-tree-lined shores of Lake Maggiore. The lake, with blue waters bordered by steep slopes, straddles Switzerland and Italy, and its tiny islands are home to elegant palazzos and lush gardens. Tickets to Locarno start at 32 Swiss francs (RM165) for rides departing from Basel or 24 Swizz francs (RM139) from Zurich. They can be booked on the Sudostbahn website. ITALY Intercity Notte to Sicily The Italian trips from Milan or Rome to Sicily are among the longest direct train routes you can embark on in Europe. Though perhaps slightly too great a distance to travel by day, it can be a comfortable length for night trains. Two trains that once ran this route, the Freccia del Sud, or Southern Arrow, and the Treno del Sole, or Sunshine Train, played a role in the large-scale migration of Italians from the rural south to the industrial north after World War II. Today's travellers can order dinner or go to bed shortly after boarding and wake up to southern sunshine and coastal views. The highlight comes around breakfast time, when the train cars are loaded onto Europe's last passenger train ferry (complete with tracks) to sail across the Strait of Messina to Sicily. The final leg of the journey is a scenic coastal ride to Palermo or Syracuse. Tickets from Trenitalia to either Milan or Rome start at just under €50 (RM242) for a couchette in a basic four-person compartment. Three-sleeper and single cabins with a private bathroom are more expensive. All fares include breakfast. SCOTLAND West Highland Line Shortly after leaving Glasgow, this line turns north, travelling between glistening lochs, and heads into untamed highland wilderness. After three hours, trains reach the Corrour station, set in a vast moorland accessible only by foot or rail. Corrour has a cafe and many walking routes. The station is famous for a scene in the 1996 film Trainspotting, in which Ewan McGregor's character sits surrounded by its mountains and rants about how unbearable it is to be Scottish. Farther on, Fort William is the ideal stop for a hike up Ben Nevis, Scotland's highest mountain. And before reaching Mallaig, trains cross the Victorian-era Glenfinnan Viaduct, popular with filmmakers and seen, most recently, in Netflix's The Crown. From the port of Mallaig, you can catch a ferry to the Isle of Skye to explore its castles and dramatic shores. The local carrier ScotRail runs several trains daily. One-way tickets start at around £20 (RM115). ScotRail offers travel passes for a set price if you plan to stop along the journey. FRANCE Train de la Cote Bleue Named after the blue waters of the Mediterranean, this train trip from Marseille to Miramas takes under two hours. The route owes its popularity to its first section – to the fishing town of Martigues – which skirts white cliffs directly along the sea. It recently underwent critical work to ensure its safety and keep it from closing. The best approach for this day trip, leaving from the heart of Marseille, is hopping on and off the train along the coast to enjoy local attractions. From L'Estaque station, you can embark on a walking tour of sites that inspired painters like Paul Cézanne and Georges Braque. A seaside trail from Niolon to Cap Mejean takes you through a succession of calanques, rugged limestone coves resembling miniature fjords. Calanques on the Cote Bleue are not as unspoiled as in the national park south of Marseille. But a tiny port and an imposing railway viaduct towering over the blue waters, like in Mejean, add their own character. The port of Sausset-les-Pins is a short walk from the train station and has several spots for dining on the water. And in Martigues, a bus can take you to the centre of town, where canals are lined by pastel-coloured houses. Tickets from the French national railway company SNCF start at €13.20 (RM64). With a day pass for the Bouches-du-Rhone departement, which includes Marseille, you can hop on and off as many times as you like for €20 (RM97). – Palko Karasz/©2025 The New York Times Company This article originally appeared in The New York Times.

5 Train Routes That Highlight the Beauty of Europe
5 Train Routes That Highlight the Beauty of Europe

New York Times

time26-03-2025

  • New York Times

5 Train Routes That Highlight the Beauty of Europe

Europe's railways have rarely inspired as much excitement as they have in recent years. Train companies, eager to capitalize on this newfound enthusiasm, have been racing to add new destinations, revive old ones or simply provide more seats on popular routes. Others have gone for luxury charters aimed at recreating the opulence of train travel in the past. With travelers now spoiled, the selection below focuses on some constants: tried and tested routes that are easily accessible and offer the kind of beautiful scenery that has been a source of delight to travelers for decades, or even a century. Most of them run daily and come at no extravagant cost, yet still have special details that will make your journey comfortable, scenic and memorable. Eurocity Transalpin The Transalpin from Zurich to Graz, Austria, is one of only a handful of trains with the Swiss Federal Railways' first-class panorama car. Its high, curved windows rise above the seats to reveal sweeping views of the Alps. In good weather, you can spend most of the nine-and-a-half-hour journey (it runs only during the day) gazing at a rolling landscape of mountains, meadows, clear lakes and peaceful villages. Crossing nearly all of Austria, the train stops at popular mountain resorts, which have increased their variety of year-round activities, like hiking, mountain biking, water sports and farm stays, to complement traditional winter sports. The dining car serves schnitzel, knödel and other local dishes with Austrian wines, and will deliver your meals to your seat in first class. There are breakfast options served with fluffy Kaiser rolls starting at 6.60 euros (about $7.15), mains at €11.40 and a seasonal menu with vegan and vegetarian options. Graz, Austria's second largest city, has a pleasant historic quarter on the banks of the River Mur and is a good starting point for a Central European adventure, thanks to good onward connections to Vienna, Prague, Budapest and beyond. Tickets from the Austrian Federal Railways start at €40 in second class and €60 in first. Look for train numbers EC163 or 164. You can buy a €3 reservation, making sure to pick both the first-class and the panorama car options, to secure a seat with a view. Treno Gottardo The Gotthard Railway, one of Switzerland's main Alpine gateways to Italy, combines dramatic views with spectacular engineering feats. To make the most of the scenery, board the Treno Gottardo, a direct service from Basel or Zurich to Locarno. The train travels through the original Gotthard Tunnel from 1882 at above 3,000 feet. It spends about 10 minutes in the tunnel, allowing travelers plenty of time to take in the views on either side. You may be tempted to stop and explore the Italian-speaking canton of Ticino, at the southern end of the route, before heading on to Milan or Venice on direct trains. South of Lake Lucerne, the train climbs a series of bridges and spiral tunnels to reach snowy peaks before descending to Locarno on the palm-tree-lined shores of Lake Maggiore. The lake, with blue waters bordered by steep slopes, straddles Switzerland and Italy, and its tiny islands are home to elegant palazzos and lush gardens. Tickets to Locarno start at 32 Swiss francs ($37) for rides departing from Basel or 24 francs from Zurich. They can be booked on the Südostbahn website. Intercity Notte to Sicily The trips from Milan or Rome to Sicily are among the longest direct train routes you can embark on in Europe. Though perhaps slightly too great a distance to travel by day, it can be a comfortable length for night trains. Two trains that once ran this route, the Freccia del Sud, or Southern Arrow, and the Treno del Sole, or Sunshine Train, played a role in the large-scale migration of Italians from the rural south to the industrial north after World War II. Today's travelers can order dinner or go to bed shortly after boarding and wake up to southern sunshine and coastal views. The highlight comes around breakfast time, when the train cars are loaded onto Europe's last passenger train ferry (complete with tracks) to sail across the Strait of Messina to Sicily. The final leg of the journey is a scenic coastal ride to Palermo or Syracuse. Tickets from Trenitalia to either Milan or Rome start at just under €50 for a couchette in a basic four-person compartment. Three-sleeper and single cabins with a private bathroom are more expensive. All fares include breakfast. West Highland Line Shortly after leaving Glasgow, this line turns north, traveling between glistening lochs, and heads into untamed highland wilderness. After three hours, trains reach the Corrour station, set in a vast moorland accessible only by foot or rail. Corrour has a cafe and many walking routes. The station is famous for a scene in the 1996 film 'Trainspotting,' in which Ewan McGregor's character sits surrounded by its mountains and rants about how unbearable it is to be Scottish. Further on, Fort William is the ideal stop for a hike up Ben Nevis, Scotland's highest mountain, or a ferry to the Isle of Skye to explore its castles and dramatic shores. And before reaching Mallaig, trains cross the Victorian-era Glenfinnan Viaduct, popular with filmmakers and seen, most recently, in Netflix's 'The Crown.' The local carrier ScotRail runs several trains daily. One-way tickets start at around 20 pounds ($26). ScotRail offers travel passes for a set price if you plan to stop along the journey. Train de la Côte Bleue Named after the blue waters of the Mediterranean, this train trip from Marseille to Miramas takes under two hours. The route owes its popularity to its first section — to the fishing town of Martigues — which skirts white cliffs directly along the sea. It recently underwent critical work to ensure its safety and keep it from closing. The best approach for this day trip, leaving from the heart of Marseille, is hopping on and off the train along the coast to enjoy local attractions. From L'Estaque station, you can embark on a walking tour of sites that inspired painters like Paul Cézanne and Georges Braque. A seaside trail from Niolon to Cap Méjean takes you through a succession of calanques, rugged limestone coves resembling miniature fjords. Calanques on the Côte Bleue are not as unspoiled as in the national park south of Marseille. But a tiny port and an imposing railway viaduct towering over the blue waters, like in Méjean, add their own character. The port of Sausset-les-Pins is a short walk from the train station and has several spots for dining on the water. And in Martigues, a bus can take you to the center of town, where canals are lined by pastel-colored houses. Tickets from the French national railway company SNCF start at €13.20. With a day pass for the Bouches-du-Rhône département, which includes Marseille, you can hop on and off as many times as you like for €20.

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