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How often should you apply sun cream? Plus 14 crucial questions answered by a skin cancer specialist
How often should you apply sun cream? Plus 14 crucial questions answered by a skin cancer specialist

Telegraph

time05-07-2025

  • Health
  • Telegraph

How often should you apply sun cream? Plus 14 crucial questions answered by a skin cancer specialist

There's nothing that conjures up thoughts of ' sun-drenched holidays ' quite like the slightly citrusy, sweet smell of Ambre Solaire. Even when my penny-pinching mum switched to Boots Soltan range in the 1980s, it still seemed like the essence of a Mediterranean summer, bottled. But we've learned a lot more about the dangers of tanning since then – and sadly know now that there's nothing glamorous or sexy about skin cancer. Australia – a country where two out of three are diagnosed with the condition by the age of 70 – paved the way for making us wise up, with their 'slip slop slap' sun cream campaign over 40 years ago. And while rates of skin cancer are unsurprisingly lower here in rainy Britain, we're far from immune. 'There's a troubling rise in skin cancer cases among younger demographics,' says consultant dermatologist Dr Anjali Mahto, founder of Self London. She blames indoor tanning as well as products offering very low SPF protection. 'The latter are often marketed to appeal to Gen Z – with bright, influencer-style branding that downplays the real risks of UV exposure.' In clinical practice, Dr Mahto sees 'a number of young patients presenting with early signs of sun damage – something that is entirely preventable with proper education and protection.' What's more, ultraviolet radiation, both UVA and UVB, is present year-round, and its effects are cumulative and insidious – it's something to shield against every day, not just for three months a year. 'As well as melanoma, UV also contributes to fine lines, uneven skin tone and loss of elasticity,' explains aesthetics expert Dr Jo Mennie, who worked in NHS plastic surgery for 12 years. I grilled the two doctors on the best practice for staying safe in 2025. Here are their answers. How much sunscreen is the right amount? If you want genuine protection don't skimp on the application. Half a teaspoon is recommended for faces and necks, and bodies need the six full teaspoons (36 grams, says Dr Mahto). 'But use your common sense, if you're larger, applying too little significantly reduces the sunscreen's efficacy. What's the best way to apply it? Whether you prefer an old-school cream or a spray, both get the thumbs up from the dermatologist. 'Either is effective if used correctly,' confirms Dr Mahto. 'Sprays should be applied liberally and then rubbed in to ensure even coverage. Creams provide a visual cue for coverage but require thorough application. Whatever you choose, the key is ensuring generous and even application.' How often should you apply sun cream? Ideally, apply sunscreen 30 minutes before sun exposure, and reapply every two hours, more frequently if you're sweating or swimming, says Dr Mennie. 'A common mistake I see is patients applying it once and assuming they're protected all day. That's unfortunately not how it works, as studies prove.' Also even if it says 'water resistant' on the bottle, swimming, sweating and towel drying can all remove sunscreen. How can you tell which is the safest sunscreen to use? 'While SPF (Sun Protection Factor) is important, it only measures protection against UVB rays, which are responsible for sunburn. It's just one side of the sun protection equation.' To fully protect your skin, Mahto says it's essential to use sunscreen – a term that refers to products offering broad-spectrum protection against both UVB and UVA rays. 'UVA rays penetrate deeper into the skin and are a major contributor to premature ageing and skin cancer, even when there's no visible sunburn.' When choosing a sunscreen in the UK, look for: SPF 30 or higher to protect against UVB A UVA star rating of at least 4 out of 5, and The 'UVA' logo inside a circle, which indicates the product meets EU standards for UVA protection What SPF factor should I use? Does it depend on skin type? Everyone should use at least SPF 30 with broad-spectrum protection, and if you have very fair skin or conditions like rosacea or melasma, make that SPF 50, says Dr Mennie. 'And even darker skin tones are still vulnerable to UVA-induced aging and pigmentation even if the burn risk is lower.' Which is better – mineral or chemical? Mineral sunscreens (zinc oxide, titanium dioxide) sit on the skin and reflect UV rays. 'These are brilliant for sensitive or acne-prone skin and those patients who are pregnant or breast-feeding or experiencing hormonal sensitivity in the skin,' says Mennie. Chemical sunscreens tend to feel lighter and blend more easily, but some can irritate sensitive skin, she adds. As both have pros and cons, 'it's worth experimenting with different brands to find the one that's right for you, as the best one is the one you'll actually wear daily.' Sunscreen makes my skin greasy or spotty – can I just wear a hat and sit in the shade instead? 'Hats and shade are helpful, but they don't block reflected UV rays completely, so sunscreen is still essential,' says Dr Mennie. She insists sunscreen won't necessarily make skin greasy, 'modern formulations are non-comedogenic and lightweight – I recommend gel-based or mineral options for oily or acne-prone skin.' Do the 'once a day' sun creams work? Bad news for the parents who thought these were a godsend. 'Studies have shown that 'once a day' sunscreens may not provide adequate protection for the entire day,' says Dr Mahto, who never recommends them to her patients. 'Sweating, swimming, and towel drying can diminish their effectiveness, so it's advisable to reapply sunscreen regularly, regardless of 'once a day' claims.' Is it worth spending more on sunscreen? Are cheap brands just as good? You don't have to spend a fortune, say the experts. 'The most important thing is that it's broad-spectrum, SPF 30 or higher, and that you apply enough – most people use half the recommended amount,' says Mennie. Some higher-end formulations offer better cosmetic finishes or added skincare benefits, she adds, 'but there are brilliant affordable options on the market.' Price does not always equate to quality in sunscreens. What are the risks of not reapplying sunscreen? By failing to keep topped up, sunscreen becomes less effective, or activities like swimming might remove it leaving you totally unprotected. Increasing the risk of sunburn, DNA damage, and skin cancer. Recent data confirms . Will skipping sunscreen make me look older? This makes premature ageing likely, says Dr Mennie. 'I've absolutely seen patients age faster from not bothering with protection. UV exposure accelerates collagen breakdown and pigmentation, so not reapplying allows UV damage to accumulate even after just a couple of hours. 'In the clinic, if I'm seeing younger patients with photodamage, fine lines, uneven tone, far earlier than I'd expect, you can be sure that they are skipping their sunscreen during overcast months or when they're 'just popping out'.' One study found up to 80–90 per cent of visible facial aging is due to UV exposure. 'I've had patients in their 30s with premature creasing around the eyes and forehead purely from incidental sun exposure,' adds Mennie. Is SPF in makeup or moisturisers enough? In short, no.'The SPF in makeup or moisturiser is tested in labs at 2mg/cm² which is far more product than most of us apply. You'd need several layers to achieve the stated protection. Think of these as top-up, not your primary defence,' advises Mennie. 'I wouldn't leave the house without actual sunscreen myself, it's my number one skincare that's non-negotiable.' Is there any such thing as a safe tan? Unfortunately, insists Mahto, there is no such thing as a truly 'safe' tan. 'Tanning is your skin's response to injury – when exposed to UV radiation, your skin produces more melanin in an attempt to protect deeper layers from damage. So even a light tan or subtle 'glow' is a sign that DNA damage has already occurred. 'Over time, this damage accumulates, increasing the risk of premature ageing, pigmentation issues and skin cancers including melanoma. Also, it's a common misconception that a gradual tan is somehow healthier. Unfortunately, any intentional tanning, whether that's from the sun or tanning beds, comes with risks.' Don't do it. What sunscreen do the experts personally use? Dr Mennie: 'I wear a broad-spectrum SPF 50 every single day rain or shine, winter or summer. I use Dr David Jack's All Day Long SPF 50 as my chemical sunscreen option, and HydroPeptide's Solar Defence non-tinted SPF 50 as my mineral option depending on how my skin feels.' Dr Mahto: 'I use a separate facial sunscreen as body sunscreens are often too heavy for my acne-prone skin, and I really like the Ultra Violette range for my face. For body, I don't spend a lot of money, I'll buy what's on offer (so long as it meets the criteria mentioned earlier). 'I don't leave the house without applying it, but if I know I'll be indoors all day (and not sitting near a window for hours) then I'll skip it – this isn't very often though!' Dr Anjali Mahto is a consultant dermatologist of over 20 years, 12 of which were in the NHS. She's also the Founder of Self London. Dr Jo Mennie has over 11 years of experience working as a doctor in the NHS and is a plastic surgeon with a special interest in women's health now working in the private sector.

Sunscreen: All you need to know to pick the best SPF for your face, scalp and body
Sunscreen: All you need to know to pick the best SPF for your face, scalp and body

Irish Times

time09-05-2025

  • Health
  • Irish Times

Sunscreen: All you need to know to pick the best SPF for your face, scalp and body

The most common cancer diagnosed in Ireland is skin cancer. According to the Irish Cancer Society , almost 12,000 new cases are reported each year, with more than 10 per cent being the most serious type – melanoma. The vast majority of skin cancers are caused by exposure to UV rays, primarily from sunlight, but also, alarmingly, from artificial sources such as sunbeds. A 2021 Australian study examining the link between melanoma detection during routine skin checks and mortality found that people who use tanning beds before the age of 35 increase their risk of developing melanoma by 75 per cent. In a group of 63 women diagnosed with melanoma before the age of 30, 61 had used tanning beds. That's a 97 per cent incidence rate. One of the easiest, most accessible, and most affordable ways to protect your skin and significantly reduce your risk of skin cancer – aside from not using sunbeds, obviously – is to wear a high-factor, broad-spectrum sunscreen every single day (forever). It's also the best anti-ageing product out there. Another study in 2013 determined that UV exposure is responsible for up to 80 per cent of visible facial ageing, including pigment disorders, fine lines and wrinkles, poor skin texture and more. READ MORE In short, wearing sunscreen every day is the ultimate way to protect and care for your skin – both now and in the long run. You can invest all the time and money you want in skincare products, but if you're not wearing sunscreen every day, it's really all for nothing. And remember, no sunscreen blocks 100 per cent of the sun's rays. That's why it's important to take extra precautions, such as wearing a hat, using sunglasses to protect your eyes, avoiding the sun during peak hours, and reapplying regularly as needed. What does SPF mean? SPF stands for sun protection factor, and tells you how much longer your skin is protected from burning compared to not wearing sunscreen. For example, SPF30 means you could theoretically stay in the sun 30 times longer without burning. I say theoretically as that number isn't exact, because UV exposure also depends on how strong the sun is. An hour outside in the morning, for example, might expose you to the same amount of UV as just 15 minutes in the afternoon, when the sun is at its most intense. This is why it's important to reapply broad-spectrum sunscreen often and be mindful of the time of day. What do you mean by broad spectrum? Broad spectrum means the sunscreen in question protects you from both UVA and UVB rays. In most cases, the term 'broad spectrum' is displayed on the packaging. In some cases, it's not, but this doesn't mean it's not broad-spectrum sunscreen. Look for the SPF number (which measures UVB rays), and for the UVA symbol (which measures UVA rays – it's usually inside a bubble), and if both are present, that means the product offers broad-spectrum protection. What do UVA and UVB rays do to the skin? Both are equally damaging to the skin. UVA rays cause ageing in the skin, fine lines, wrinkles, sunspots, reduced skin tone and more. UVB rays burn the skin and, in some cases, cause blistering. UVA rays can also penetrate glass, which is why it's important to wear sunscreen year-round. Both UVA and UVB rays can lead to skin cancer. But don't they give my skin a healthy tan? There's no such thing as a safe or healthy tan. UV rays damage the DNA in your skin cells and, in response, your body produces melanin – the pigment that gives your skin its colour. This process is what we commonly refer to as a 'tan' – but in reality, it's a sign of DNA injury. Even minimal tanning can contribute to premature ageing and significantly increase your risk of developing skin cancer. [ 'We all want to enjoy time in the sun, but it's important to be careful,' says mother of woman (33) who died of melanoma Opens in new window ] What's the difference between mineral and chemical sunscreens, and which one should I use? Chemical and mineral sunscreens both protect against UV rays, but they work in different ways. Chemical sunscreens absorb UV rays and convert them into heat before releasing them, while mineral sunscreens reflect the rays away from the skin. Although mineral formulas were once thick and heavy, this is not the case nowadays, as brands have vastly improved the formula and texture of both types, and many products now blend the two. Ultimately, the best sunscreen is the one you'll use every day – so focus less on the type and more on finding one you'll actually wear every day. My favourite sunscreens Supergoop! Play Everyday Lotion SPF50 (€26 from Space NK) Supergoop! Play Everyday Lotion SPF50 (€26 from Space NK) Summer Fridays Shade Drops SPF30 (€40 from Space NK) Summer Fridays Shade Drops SPF30 (€40 from Space NK). Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50 (€18.99 from Boots) Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50 (€18.99 from Boots). EltaMD UV Clear SPF46 (€59 from Institute of Dermatologists) EltaMD UV Clear SPF46 (€59 from Institute of Dermatologists). What factor sunscreen should I be wearing? SPF50 is preferable, but dermatologists recommended a minimum of SPF30 every single day. SPF30 is considered high protection, while SPF50 is considered very high protection. My moisturiser/foundation contains SPF – is this enough? In a word, no. Sunscreen is not an ingredient. Its main job is to form a protective layer on the skin. That's why it's important to always use a stand-alone sunscreen, rather than relying on SPF in your other products. Also, consider how much of that product you're actually applying. SPF ratings are based on using a generous amount of sunscreen – about three finger lengths or a shot glass filled to the brim. This is an unrealistically heavy application for foundation or moisturiser. [ Is your SPF causing breakouts? We ask a dermatologist for advice Opens in new window ] How much sunscreen should I be applying? The Irish Cancer Society recommends using 'a measure of half a teaspoon of sunscreen to cover each arm, the face, neck and ears. Use a measure of one teaspoon for each leg, the front and the back of the body.' In order words, a generous dollop that covers all exposed skin – and if you're not sure you've applied enough, apply more. And don't forget to reapply every two hours. How do I reapply my sunscreen over make-up? The days of struggling to reapply sunscreen over make-up without ruining your base are a thing of the past. There are now several excellent sunscreen mists on the market that are dry-touch and transparent. If anything, they feel like a refreshing, cool mist on the skin – so there's really no excuse not to reapply. Two of my long-time favourites are Sculpted by Aimee's Sun Mist SPF50 (€22 from and Ultrasun's SPF50 UV Face and Scalp Mist (€30 from Boots). Sculpted by Aimee Sun Mist SPF50 (€22 from Ultrasun SPF50 UV Face and Scalp Mist (€30 from Boots) SPF and flash photography – is there any way to prevent flashback? Most sunscreen products don't cause flashback. In some cases, however, some ingredients found in mineral sunscreens, like zinc oxide or titanium dioxide, can leave a whitish glow on the skin under flash photography – but not always (especially with the upgraded formulations available nowadays). If you're unsure about using sunscreen for an event where there will be flash photography, such as a wedding, it's always a good idea to do a test run beforehand under direct flash conditions. What about my scalp and hairline? The scalp and hairline can be protected by wearing a hat, or if that's not possible, by applying a broad-spectrum sunscreen mist or a sunscreen powder. One of the best sunscreen powders I've used is Supergoop! (Re)setting 100 per cent Mineral Powder SPF30 (€34 from Space NK). Supergoop! (Re)setting 100% Mineral Powder SPF30 (€34 from Space NK) It's very finely milled and can be easily dusted over the scalp – no white, powdery residue in sight. It's important to note that mists and powders should not be used as your primary sunscreen, however. They should only be used to top up or reapply over your initial liquid sunscreen. Can I use sunscreen if I'm dealing with skin issues like perioral dermatitis? Yes and no, as it really depends on each individual case. Most general skincare products, with the exception of a very basic cleanser and moisturiser, are often avoided when dealing with perioral dermatitis, and this can sometimes include sunscreen. Some research suggests, however, that mineral sunscreens can be a good option, if tolerated, because they contain zinc oxide, which has anti-inflammatory properties. That said, if you're struggling with PD, it's always best to consult your GP or dermatologist for advice and guidance. Does sunscreen go out of date? Yes. Depending on the type of sunscreen you choose, the majority are formulated to last somewhere between two and three years. You can confirm this with the 'period after opening' symbol on the packaging. It usually appears on the back and looks like a small jar with a number inside – this tells you how long the product is good for after opening. Saying that, if the product has been stored incorrectly, like being left open or exposed to direct heat, it's likely that it will expire sooner. If it smells funny, has changed texture or generally just looks off, bin it. Using an expired product, especially sunscreen, is never a good idea, as you're putting your skin at risk. How can I protect my lips and eyes? Wear a lip balm or lip tint with high factor, broad-spectrum protection. There are lots of options to choose from. Two of my personal favourites include EltaMD UV Lip Balm SPF36 (€26 from Institute of Dermatologists) and UltraViolette Sheen Screen Hydrating Lip Balm SPF50 (€20 from Space NK), which comes in several shades. EltaMD UV Lip Balm SPF36 (€26 from Institute of Dermatologists) Ultra Violette Sheen Screen Hydrating Lip Balm SPF50 (€20 from Space NK) For eyes, wear sunglasses, and use an eye cream that provides adequate protection while also looking after the delicate skin around the eyes. I love EltaMD UV AOX Eye Cream SPF30 (€67 from Institute of Dermatologists) and Medik8 Advanced Day Protect Eye Cream SPF30 (€46 from Space NK). EltaMD UV AOX Eye Cream SPF30 (€67 from Institute of Dermatologists) Medik8 Advanced Day Protect Eye Cream SPF30 (€46 from Space NK)

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