Latest news with #ValentinaGonzalez
Forbes
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- Forbes
Vogue Erupts: AI-Generated Models Spark Reader Fury And Industry Panic
A two-page spread in the August edition of Vogue has sparked controversy for using AI models What happens when the world's most respected, self-appointed fashion bible quietly takes a step outside of its traditional aesthetic? On newsstands in early August 2025, Vogue's much‑anticipated August issue serves business as usual; glossy, authoritative, impeccably curated. However, nestled between Anne Hathaway's immaculate image on the cover and editorials covering female leadership in fashion and the representation of women in sports, lies an unassuming two‑page spread for Guess, labelled discreetly 'Produced by Seraphinne Vallora on AI.' At first glance, the campaign's flawless, hyper‑symmetrical blonde model sitting with a cup of coffee in one image, and leaning against a blue wall in another, looks like all of the other photoshopped ads that we see in glossy publications, treading the line between photorealism and impossible beauty standards. But beneath these uber perfect images of an AI-generated model lies a tectonic shift: the dawn of fully synthetic imagery in the pages of fashion's most esteemed publication. AI-Generated Models Versus Photoshopped Imagery The Guess ad, commissioned through Paris‑based creative house Seraphinne Vallora, was created using generative algorithms trained on runway looks, campaign shots and studio lighting setups. The founders of Seraphinne Vallora, Valentina Gonzalez and Andreea Petrescu, told the BBC that they were asked to create the AI model for this campaign by Paul Marciano, co-founder of Guess, via a message on Instagram. By producing the campaign using AI tools, there was no need for a casting director, green room, or a retoucher. In a much shorter space of time than traditional shoots, the AI tools were still used to create a model whose every angle, expression and shadow conformed to an idealised beauty standard; but, until recently, these images were only possible after human teams had crafted them over weeks of back‑and‑forth. Vogue's transparent labelling did little to dull the shockwaves caused by this alternative method of image creation and refinement. Industry insiders and loyal readers alike paused; if AI can manufacture a model this convincingly, what becomes of the humans whose careers, identities and artistry define fashion's legacy? Subscriber Backlash Within hours of the issue's release, social feeds lit up. Long‑time subscribers announced cancellations; digital forums teemed with the disbelief and outrage of readers who felt somehow duped by this method of image creation. Even die‑hard advocates of technological progress found themselves questioning the trade‑off between efficiency and authenticity. In an industry that thrives on storytelling through faces, gestures and moments, however 'curated' or manipulated, Vogue's experiment posed a stark question: can perfectly rendered pixels ever replace the imperfect pulse of 'real' life? This, in turn, raises deeper questions about artistry, ethics and evolution that this unheralded Guess spread has ignited; questions Vogue's glossy pages have never before had to answer so directly. Could this be another case of those in power using AI to introduce automation where it is not wanted? Humans Or Technology First? At its core, the Vogue‑Guess spread forced a fundamental question: when a perfectly posed AI-generated model replaces a living, breathing model, what do we lose? On social media and industry forums, the reaction has been visceral. Models and their advocates have sounded the alarm about livelihoods hanging in the balance. As Dr Jade McSorley, Head of Knowledge Exchange at the Centre for Sustainable Fashion, puts it: 'I can't help but wonder who really benefits here. Is this just another way for brands to sell more items? As someone who used to model for e-commerce companies, the personality you bring to images is suddenly diminished alongside the spontaneous, co-creative process we have with the whole creative team (all of whom will be impacted)." That tension, between crafting flawless visuals and preserving human agency, lies at the heart of the debate. Can an algorithm ever capture the lived stories, cultural nuances, and subtle imperfections that give fashion its emotional resonance? Or are we hurtling toward a homogenised ideal that ultimately leaves readers cold? Matthew Drinkwater, Head of Innovation at the Fashion Innovation Agency at London College of Fashion, offers a different take on things: 'The panic over AI-generated models says more about our fear of change than the technology itself. Fashion has never been about preserving the status quo, it thrives on disruption. To suggest that AI 'steals jobs' is as reductive as claiming digital photography killed fashion photography; it didn't, it redefined it. AI models won't erase human talent, they'll challenge us to rethink what creativity, representation, and beauty can look like in the 21st century.' This contrast in views highlights that there is no clear 'correct' answer to this issue, but that there are obvious merits to both approaches of image creation for fashion publications. The wider public appear to need some convincing, but things may possibly be a bit clearer for those sitting in the corner offices of fashion brands and industry publications. The Automated-Authentic Balance In boardrooms and creative studios, the formula is simple: AI tools can cut campaign costs by upwards of 70 percent, in some cases, and shorten lead times from months to days. On one side of this precarious balance sit the CFOs, dazzled by the promise of infinite model permutations and instant asset generation; on the other, sit the readers, especially discerning Gen Z audiences, craving analogue textures, real bodies and the subtle flaws that signal human artistry. Stitching those impulses into a coherent strategy is the industry's great challenge. One person with more than a little expertise on this balance is fashion-tech journalist Maghan McDowell. As a former Innovation Editor at Vogue Business, she has the inside track on the perceptions of these new technologies and their capabilities, from both sides of the equation. When speaking about the Guess ad in the latest issue of Vogue, McDowell told me: 'When I hear about controversies like this, my heart really sinks, because there's always an inevitable conversation about how art that has any impact from AI is inherently bad–and I think that's simply not true. But I do think there are bad ways to use it, especially when it's so new. In this situation, it looks very much like a traditional photo shoot, print ad, and I think the consumer is not there yet. Our eyes are not trained to accept that, our brains are not trained to accept that. I think, especially in these early days, any use of consumer facing AI needs to be disclosed and transparent, not hidden, or not seeming like it's hidden. Yes, there was an AI disclosure, which was very important, but I don't think that most people would would have seen it.' It is also worth noting that this is not Vogue's first foray into AI-generated content. As McDowell explains, 'there have already been editorial photo shoots or editorial projects [using AI-generated content] in various Vogues. I'm thinking of Vogue Singapore, Vogue Italia, Vogue Portugal, who have done legitimate editorial photo shoots that use AI in a way that is more celebrated. And so what we hear about often is when something goes wrong or when something doesn't land with the public. I think that's unfortunate, because we don't talk so much about the more successful uses.' 'It's not lost on me that this was a print issue of Vogue, and it's clear that people still very much do care about print magazines. It is creating influence, and the conversation is an important one, about the use of AI and creativity.' AI-Generated Models: A Greener Future For Fashion Shoots? AI isn't just a cost‑cutting measure; it can be a green tool. Fewer on‑site shoots mean less wardrobe waste, lower travel emissions, and smaller production footprints. On the consumer side, virtual try‑on experiences powered by AI avatars can reduce return rates; studies show as much as a 20 percent drop in e‑commerce returns when shoppers see garments on a model matching their exact measurements. That's a win for wallets and the planet alike. Vogue's foray into AI-generated models is more than a provocative ad buy; it's an inflection point for the entire industry. By confronting the humanity‑algorithm divide, exploring rigorous ethical guardrails, and embracing a hybrid future, brands and media can ensure that technology serves creativity, and not the other way around. In that balance lies the next chapter of fashion storytelling.
ABC News
2 days ago
- Entertainment
- ABC News
Her features are flawless. But this blonde, blue-eyed Vogue model isn't real
She has sleek blond hair, a delicate nose and flawless features. But she is not real. For the first time in history, Vogue has featured an AI model in its pages. The two-page spread, an ad for Guess's summer collection, is in the fashion bible's August print edition. But it has sparked significant online controversy, with some claiming it threatens diversity in fashion and reinforces already unattainable beauty standards. Others say it calls into question the future of real models. Here's what we know. The images were created by London-based AI marketing agency Seraphinne Vallora. Co-founded by former architects Valentina Gonzalez and Andreea Petrescu, the company builds fashion campaigns for major brands using artificial intelligence. "When we started, no one was doing this," the co-founders told the ABC in a statement. "But with the global attention we've received and the results we've shown, we're seeing a massive shift in awareness." They scored the Guess campaign after co-founder Paul Marciano "slid into their DMs" on Instagram. Once they'd worked with the brand to learn their creative vision, Seraphinne Vallora generated the imagery. It's a process they say can take several weeks and hundreds of iterations, as they work to perfect the texture, movement and details of the advertised product. The resulting Vogue spread featured summery images of a blonde model wearing a floral mini dress and a striped maxi dress. In one corner, there's a subtle disclaimer that the images are AI-generated. Vogue has faced online backlash for including the ad in its latest print edition. One reader says the magazine had "lost credibility". Others pointed out that with the rise of AI, even models would not be able to compete with unrealistic beauty standards. Vogue directed the ABC's inquiries to Guess, which did not respond by the deadline. RMIT fashion lecturer Rashmita Bardalai says Guess may have opted for an AI-generated model to cut the costs of traditional fashion shoots — both logistical and financial. "It also gives them control over styling environments, so they can place models in any type of digital world," she said. Seraphinne Vallora says while they can create any kind of model, they've noticed online engagement plummets as soon as they experiment with "more diversity". This includes different body types and facial features. "Our reach would drop from 10 million views per month to just 1 million. That's a 90 per cent decrease," they said in a statement. "We're simply reflecting what has been established culturally and what audiences still respond to today." Dr Bardalai says fashion has made "real progress" in diversity in recent years, platforming models with different body types, ages, ethnicities and abilities, as well as trans models. She says it's crucial AI is trained with unbiased datasets, to ensure it doesn't promote "outdated beauty norms". The Butterfly Foundation's Melissa Wilton says AI models may spark a surge in disordered eating, as people pursue increasingly "unrealistic and unattainable" beauty ideals. She said a 2024 Dove report showed almost 50 per cent of Australian women felt pressured to alter their appearance because of online content, even when they knew images were fake or AI-generated. "AI may also reinforce Eurocentric beauty ideals, such as light skin, straight hair and thinness, while also excluding racial minorities," she said. Seraphinne Vallora say they expect demand for their AI-generated models will explode in the coming years. However, they say they don't want to replace traditional methods, but offer a faster, lower-cost "creative alternative". Meanwhile, Dr Bardalai says while AI offers "really exciting potentials" in the fashion space — including supporting sustainable design and reducing purchase returns — it's crucial it's properly regulated. She says AI images must also be clearly labelled — currently not a legal obligation in Australia. But while AI models could "disrupt workflows" in certain fashion productions such as pre-launch teasers and lookbooks, Dr Bardalai says there's little risk they'll replace real-life models entirely. "How do we use this as a tool and not as a substitute?" she says. "But the human touch, the emotional intelligence — of course, that remains irreplaceable."
Yahoo
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Does this look like a real woman? AI Vogue model raises concerns about beauty standards
There's a new supermodel in town. She's striking, stylish... and not real. In August's print edition of Vogue, a Guess advert features a flawless blonde model showing off a striped maxi dress and a floral playsuit from the brand's summer collection. In small print in one corner, the ad reveals that she was created using AI. While Vogue says the AI model was not an editorial decision, it is the first time an AI-generated person has featured in the magazine. The advert has been met with controversy and raises questions about what this means for real models who have fought for greater diversity, and for consumers - particularly young people - already struggling with unrealistic beauty standards. Seraphinne Vallora is the company behind Guess's controversial advert. Its founders, Valentina Gonzalez and Andreea Petrescu, tell the BBC they were approached by Guess's co-founder, Paul Marciano, on Instagram and were asked to create an AI model as part of the brand's summer campaign. "We created 10 draft models for him and he selected one brunette woman and one blonde that we went ahead and developed further," Gonzalez says. She explains there's often a misconception that AI image generation is simple, saying it is actually a complex process. The company has five employees who create AI models, and it can take up to a month from idea inception to the completed product. The pair say they charge anywhere up to low six figures for a client like Guess. 'Disheartening' But Felicity Hayward, a plus-size model who has been in the industry for more than a decade, says using AI models in fashion campaigns "feels lazy and cheap". "Either Guess is doing this to create a talking point and get free publicity or they want to cut costs and don't think about the implications of that." She describes Vogue's decision to include the advert as "very disheartening and quite scary", and worries it could undermine years of work towards more diversity in the industry. The fashion world was making real progress to be more inclusive in the 2010s - the decade saw Valentina Sampaio become the first openly trans model to walk for Victoria's Secret, Halima Aden was the first hijab-wearing model in global campaigns, and brands like Savage x Fenty featured plus-size models on the runway. But in recent years, Hayward believes, the industry has slipped backwards because "these people are just not getting booked any more". And the use of AI models is "another kick in the teeth, and one that will disproportionately affect plus-size models", she warns. Gonzalez and Petrescu are adamant they don't reinforce narrow beauty standards. "We don't create unattainable looks - actually the AI model for Guess looks quite realistic," Petrescu says. "Ultimately, all adverts are created to look perfect and usually have supermodels in, so what we are doing is no different." The pair admit the AI images on their company's Instagram page are lacking in diversity and promote unrealistic beauty standards. They say they have tried to be more inclusive, but it's the users who don't engage much with those posts. "We've posted AI images of women with different skin tones, but people do not respond to them - we don't get any traction or likes," Gonzalez tells the BBC. "At the end of the day, we are a business and use images on Instagram that will create a conversation and bring us clients." The company is yet to experiment with creating plus-size women, claiming "the technology is not advanced enough for that". An ad campaign by Dove in 2024 was designed to highlight the biases in AI. In the advert, an image generator is asked to create the most beautiful woman in the world and produces virtually indistinguishable women who are young, thin and white, with blonde hair and blue eyes. The images generated look similar to the Guess AI model. Hayward worries that seeing these unattainable images could have an impact on people's mental health and negatively affect their body image. Concern around unrealistic beauty standards and the damaging effects they can have is nothing new. But unlike traditional airbrushing, which at least began with a real person, these AI models are digitally created to look perfect, free from human flaws, inconsistencies or uniqueness. While some high-profile figures such as Ashley Graham, Jameela Jamil and Bella Thorne have spoken out against image editing and refuse to have their pictures Photoshopped, the use of AI sidesteps such conversations entirely. Vogue's decision to include an AI-generated advert has caused a stir on social media, with one user on X writing: "Wow! As if the beauty expectations weren't unrealistic enough, here comes AI to make them impossible. Even models can't compete." Vanessa Longley, CEO of eating disorder charity Beat, tells the BBC the advert is "worrying". "If people are exposed to images of unrealistic bodies, it can affect their thoughts about their own body, and poor body image increases the risk of developing an eating disorder," she says. 'Exceptionally problematic' Adding to the issue is the lack of transparency - it is not a legal requirement to label AI-generated content in the UK. While Guess labelled its advert as AI-generated, the disclaimer is small and subtle. Readers may overlook it and, at a glance, the image appears entirely lifelike. Sinead Bovell, a former model and now tech entrepreneur, wrote an article for Vogue five years ago about the risks of AI replacing modelling. She tells the BBC that not labelling AI content clearly is "exceptionally problematic" because it could have a detrimental impact on people's mental health. "Beauty standards are already being influenced by AI. There are young girls getting plastic surgery to look like a face in a filter – and now we see people who are entirely artificial," she says. Aside from the impact AI models could have on a consumer, especially if unlabelled, what about the impact of this technology on those working in the fashion industry? Sara Ziff is a former model and founder of Model Alliance, an organisation that aims to advance workers' rights in the fashion industry. She says Guess's AI campaign is "less about innovation and more about desperation and need to cut costs". More broadly, the former model thinks AI in the fashion industry is not inherently exploitative, but can often come at the expense of the people who bring it to life because there are many more staff involved in a photoshoot than just the model and the photographer. "AI can positively impact the industry, but there need to be meaningful protections for workers," she explains. 'Supplement not replace' Seraphinne Vallora rejects the notion that it is putting people out of work, and says its pioneering technology "is supplementary and not meant to replace models". "We're offering companies another choice in how they market a product," Petrescu explains. The pair add that they have created jobs with their company, and part of the process of creating AI models requires them to hire a real model and photographer to see how the product looks on a person in real life. However, its website lists one of the benefits of working with them as being cost-efficient because it "eliminates the need for expensive set-ups, MUA artists, venue rentals, stage setting, photographers, travel expenses, hiring models". Vogue has come under fire for including the advert in its print edition, with one person on X saying the fashion magazine had "lost credibility". Bovell says the magazine is "seen as the supreme court of the fashion industry", so allowing the AI advert to run means they are "in some way ruling it as acceptable". The BBC approached Vogue and Guess for comment. Vogue said it was an advert, not an editorial decision, but declined to respond further. So, what does the future of the modelling industry look like? Gonzalez and Petrescu believe that as their technology improves, they will be even more in demand by brands looking to do things differently. Bovell thinks there will be more AI-generated models in the future, but "we aren't headed to a future where every model is created by AI". She sees positives in the development of AI in the industry - predicting that anybody could "start to see ourselves as the fashion models" because we will be able to create a personal AI avatar to see how clothes look and fit. However, she adds that we may get to the stage of "society opting out, and not being interested in AI models because it's so unattainable and we know it's not real". More Weekend Picks The procedures driving UK's cosmetic surgery rise Women share their bittersweet experience after taking weight-loss drugs Can LED face masks transform your skin? Here's what the experts say Solve the daily Crossword
Yahoo
3 days ago
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Here's What's Happening With AI Models Inside The Newest Issue Of Vogue
Earlier this week, TikTok user @lala4an posted a video with an observation about the August issue of Vogue. Inside, there was an ad for Guess's chevron dress, modeled by an otherwise unassuming (but, of course, gorgeous) blonde woman with a slim, hourglass figure. However, a look at the small print revealed something surprising: "Produced by Seraphinne Vallora on AI." Related: The revelation that AI models were inside the pages of Vogue quickly went viral, with the video amassing over 2 million views in three days. As the TikTok found its way across other platforms, much of the response was, in a word, negative. So, who is Seraphinne Vallora? Go on their Instagram, which has over 220k followers, and you'll see hundreds of smooth-skinned women with high cheekbones and plump lips (the caveat being that all of these images are AI-generated). In their own words, courtesy of their bio, "We design editorial level AI-driven marketing campaigns and cinematic videos. As seen in Elle, Grazia, Vogue, WSJ, FT, Harper's Bazaar." The real women behind the business, Valentina Gonzalez and Andreea Petrescu, told me that they started making AI models because they were trying to create a jewelry brand and couldn't afford the real thing. Andreea recalled, "With us [being] designers and architects, we decided to use our skills to try to create our own models. We started to put our own jewelry that we were trying to sell into these AI models and campaigns. Essentially, other people saw this, it was a success, and they asked if we could do the same for them." As they saw it, there was a "huge gap in the market" for a "design-led" AI image company. Andreea said, "We started going viral, because nobody was doing this at the time, and that's how we grew our account. We grew the account organically." Related: The company has since been going for two years, comprising now of five people. Their page caught the attention of Paul Marciano, the co-founder of Guess, who sent them a DM. As Andreea put it, "Paul is a very fearless man. He's a trendsetter. So he decided, 'I like this, I want it.' Eventually, I really believe many other companies will go for this." Valentina said that they're the "first AI-driven campaign to be published worldwide," in 20 storefronts across Europe and an additional 30 magazines. I asked them why a brand like Guess, which has a presumably ample budget, would opt for AI. "When Paul hired us, he told us very clearly, 'I'm not looking to replace our models.' He wants to supplement, because they have so many product campaigns that can take a very, very long time to plan, so he can only do a few campaigns every year," she recalled. "Meanwhile, with AI, it could be faster. You don't need to arrange any traveling, you don't need permits. You don't need any of these to create beautiful images." Related: They both insist that their use of AI, rather than a layman's, is a form of art. Consider a comparison Valentina made: "It's no different to a random person taking a camera, that doesn't make them a photographer." Neither are they fans of the idea that the models, based on text inputs and "proprietary techniques," are easy to make. They deny that images of real people are used to make composites: "It's really not copying anyone's features. It's pretty much like imagination." Generally speaking, they'll provide mood boards to clients, sometimes working with photographers and in-person models to test poses and angles. Stylists will select the clothing and accessories. They showed me an example deck for a luxury brand, which said, "Together, we'll collaborate to bring your model to life. We begin by selecting the ideal body type, eye color, hair style, height, and other defining features that best represent your brand's identity." This is an example of what they'd send to a client — Saint Laurent does not appear to be a current client of theirs. "We invested so much in our technology, because we wanted it to look like a photo. What you see in Guess is amazing, but what we do now is even better," Andreea continued. This presents a potential issue: What if people don't know that the woman they're looking at is AI? She replied, "I do feel like if they don't realize it's digitally made, I don't feel like there's blame to be placed on us, because we do disclose it, the brands we work with do disclose it." Andreea notes that the Guess ads do have disclosures, but she doesn't think there will necessarily be a requirement to do so in the future. As she put it, "People are not familiar with it and people are scared of change. But once this becomes the new norm, I think whether companies decide to add it or not, it's not too relevant. The impact of it, whether you do it in AI or in a normal medium, will be the same if you get the same results." Related: Do they worry that the use of AI models will further an already unrealistic beauty standard? "We are not creating a new standard. The standard has always been there," Valentina responded. Andreea affirmed, "We're pretty much in line with the same standard that is set in the rest of the magazine. If I look at a magazine, I'm gonna be bombarded with 10 different supermodels. Because one is AI, it doesn't change anything." Initially, the women say that they featured more diverse body types and ethnicities on their Instagram pages — even men. But it was the "fantasy type" of woman that got them the most attention. Valentina said, "It's not even us, it's the public. If they loved the diversity, we would have flooded our Instagram with diversity." They can't tell me who they're currently speaking with, citing NDAs. However, there is another service that Seraphinne Vallora offers: AI twins of real-life models. As Valentina described, "For example, if you're a supermodel or a model, you might want to have a twin of you so you can take two jobs at the same time. If you're in China and Miami, either way, you can get an AI avatar that is identical to you. We literally get everything exactly the way you look. I'm talking details, pores, facial hair, everything, we get it to exact accuracy." This is a real image of Bella Hadid. If supermodels do wind up using their AI avatars, will they have to disclose it? Valentina replied, "It's their choice. We encourage them to." BuzzFeed has reached out to Guess for comment. Also in Internet Finds: Also in Internet Finds: Also in Internet Finds:
Yahoo
4 days ago
- Entertainment
- Yahoo
Does this look like a real woman? AI Vogue model raises concerns about beauty standards
There's a new supermodel in town. She's striking, stylish... and not real. In August's print edition of Vogue, a Guess advert features a flawless blonde model showing off a striped maxi dress and a floral playsuit from the brand's summer collection. In small print in one corner, the ad reveals that she was created using AI. While Vogue says the AI model was not an editorial decision, it is the first time an AI-generated person has featured in the magazine. The advert has been met with controversy and raises questions about what this means for real models who have fought for greater diversity, and for consumers - particularly young people - already struggling with unrealistic beauty standards. Seraphinne Vallora is the company behind Guess's controversial advert. Its founders, Valentina Gonzalez and Andreea Petrescu, tell the BBC they were approached by Guess's co-founder, Paul Marciano, on Instagram and were asked to create an AI model as part of the brand's summer campaign. "We created 10 draft models for him and he selected one brunette woman and one blonde that we went ahead and developed further," Gonzalez says. She explains there's often a misconception that AI image generation is simple, saying it is actually a complex process. The company has five employees who create AI models, and it can take up to a month from idea inception to the completed product. The pair say they charge anywhere up to low six figures for a client like Guess. 'Disheartening' But Felicity Hayward, a plus-size model who has been in the industry for more than a decade, says using AI models in fashion campaigns "feels lazy and cheap". "Either Guess is doing this to create a talking point and get free publicity or they want to cut costs and don't think about the implications of that." She describes Vogue's decision to include the advert as "very disheartening and quite scary", and worries it could undermine years of work towards more diversity in the industry. The fashion world was making real progress to be more inclusive in the 2010s - the decade saw Valentina Sampaio become the first openly trans model to walk for Victoria's Secret, Halima Aden was the first hijab-wearing model in global campaigns, and brands like Savage x Fenty featured plus-size models on the runway. But in recent years, Hayward believes, the industry has slipped backwards because "these people are just not getting booked any more". And the use of AI models is "another kick in the teeth, and one that will disproportionately affect plus-size models", she warns. Gonzalez and Petrescu are adamant they don't reinforce narrow beauty standards. "We don't create unattainable looks - actually the AI model for Guess looks quite realistic," Petrescu says. "Ultimately, all adverts are created to look perfect and usually have supermodels in, so what we are doing is no different." The pair admit the AI images on their company's Instagram page are lacking in diversity and promote unrealistic beauty standards. They say they have tried to be more inclusive, but it's the users who don't engage much with those posts. "We've posted AI images of women with different skin tones, but people do not respond to them - we don't get any traction or likes," Gonzalez tells the BBC. "At the end of the day, we are a business and use images on Instagram that will create a conversation and bring us clients." The company is yet to experiment with creating plus-size women, claiming "the technology is not advanced enough for that". An ad campaign by Dove in 2024 was designed to highlight the biases in AI. In the advert, an image generator is asked to create the most beautiful woman in the world and produces virtually indistinguishable women who are young, thin and white, with blonde hair and blue eyes. The images generated look similar to the Guess AI model. Hayward worries that seeing these unattainable images could have an impact on people's mental health and negatively affect their body image. Concern around unrealistic beauty standards and the damaging effects they can have is nothing new. But unlike traditional airbrushing, which at least began with a real person, these AI models are digitally created to look perfect, free from human flaws, inconsistencies or uniqueness. While some high-profile figures such as Ashley Graham, Jameela Jamil and Bella Thorne have spoken out against image editing and refuse to have their pictures Photoshopped, the use of AI sidesteps such conversations entirely. Vogue's decision to include an AI-generated advert has caused a stir on social media, with one user on X writing: "Wow! As if the beauty expectations weren't unrealistic enough, here comes AI to make them impossible. Even models can't compete." Vanessa Longley, CEO of eating disorder charity Beat, tells the BBC the advert is "worrying". "If people are exposed to images of unrealistic bodies, it can affect their thoughts about their own body, and poor body image increases the risk of developing an eating disorder," she says. 'Exceptionally problematic' Adding to the issue is the lack of transparency - it is not a legal requirement to label AI-generated content in the UK. While Guess labelled its advert as AI-generated, the disclaimer is small and subtle. Readers may overlook it and, at a glance, the image appears entirely lifelike. Sinead Bovell, a former model and now tech entrepreneur, wrote an article for Vogue five years ago about the risks of AI replacing modelling. She tells the BBC that not labelling AI content clearly is "exceptionally problematic" because it could have a detrimental impact on people's mental health. "Beauty standards are already being influenced by AI. There are young girls getting plastic surgery to look like a face in a filter – and now we see people who are entirely artificial," she says. Aside from the impact AI models could have on a consumer, especially if unlabelled, what about the impact of this technology on those working in the fashion industry? Sara Ziff is a former model and founder of Model Alliance, an organisation that aims to advance workers' rights in the fashion industry. She says Guess's AI campaign is "less about innovation and more about desperation and need to cut costs". More broadly, the former model thinks AI in the fashion industry is not inherently exploitative, but can often come at the expense of the people who bring it to life because there are many more staff involved in a photoshoot than just the model and the photographer. "AI can positively impact the industry, but there need to be meaningful protections for workers," she explains. 'Supplement not replace' Seraphinne Vallora rejects the notion that it is putting people out of work, and says its pioneering technology "is supplementary and not meant to replace models". "We're offering companies another choice in how they market a product," Petrescu explains. The pair add that they have created jobs with their company, and part of the process of creating AI models requires them to hire a real model and photographer to see how the product looks on a person in real life. However, its website lists one of the benefits of working with them as being cost-efficient because it "eliminates the need for expensive set-ups, MUA artists, venue rentals, stage setting, photographers, travel expenses, hiring models". Vogue has come under fire for including the advert in its print edition, with one person on X saying the fashion magazine had "lost credibility". Bovell says the magazine is "seen as the supreme court of the fashion industry", so allowing the AI advert to run means they are "in some way ruling it as acceptable". The BBC approached Vogue and Guess for comment. Vogue said it was an advert, not an editorial decision, but declined to respond further. So, what does the future of the modelling industry look like? Gonzalez and Petrescu believe that as their technology improves, they will be even more in demand by brands looking to do things differently. Bovell thinks there will be more AI-generated models in the future, but "we aren't headed to a future where every model is created by AI". She sees positives in the development of AI in the industry - predicting that anybody could "start to see ourselves as the fashion models" because we will be able to create a personal AI avatar to see how clothes look and fit. However, she adds that we may get to the stage of "society opting out, and not being interested in AI models because it's so unattainable and we know it's not real". More Weekend Picks The procedures driving UK's cosmetic surgery rise Women share their bittersweet experience after taking weight-loss drugs Can LED face masks transform your skin? Here's what the experts say
